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IN THE WONDERLAND OF PERU

The Work Accomplished by the Peruvian Expedition

of 1912, Under the Auspices of Yale University

and the National Geographic Society

By HIRAM BINGHAM

Director of the Expedition

Reprinted form the National (jeogkaphic Maoazink. April, I<il3

WASHINCT1>N. D. C.
PRtSS OF jrm» A DETuKliFM IN

IOI3

4 9 0 2 -12 2

Vol. XXIV, No. 4 WASHINGTON APRIL, 1913

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Robert Stiplu'iisdii. .. \ ^

plRMs. and Messrs. I'aul I'.cstor. ( ^sj;....,. \ '

Ilar.lv. an. 1 JMscpli Little, assistants. imndv it.....v^

Vol. XXIV, No. 4

WASHINGTON

APRIL, 1913

&

©(SISAFSDH©
ASAMNE

IN THE WONDERLAND OE PERU

The Work Accomplished by the Peruvian Expedition of

1912, under the Auspices of Yale University and

the National Geographic Society

Bv Hiram Bingham, Director of j he Expedition

Prof. IJirani Biiujlianis c.vploratious in South A}}icrica, 'iQo6-i^i i, mui par-
ticularly his discoveries in Kji i, ivere so important that ichoi he was seeki)i(j fioids
for another Peruvian expedition in igi2, the Research Committee of the Xational
Geographic Society made him a grant of $10,000, Yale University contributing an
equal amount. His preliminary report to the Xational Geographic Society and
Yale University of the i^'ork done in kjij is printed herei^'ith. and forms o)ie of
the most remarkable stories of exploration in South .hncrica in the past so years.
The members of the Society are extremely gratified at the splendid record ichich
Dr. Bingham and all the members of the expedition have made, and as XiV study
the Jjo marvelous pictures ichich are priiited icith this report, 7^'e also are thrilled
by the wonders and mystery of Marhu ricchu. I That an extraordinary people the
builders of Machu Picchu must have been to have constructed, without steel imple-
ments, and iising only stone hammers and wedges, the wonderful city of refuge on
the mountain top. — ICditok.

IXTRODCCTORY Tlic (Urcctof. oslcoloj^ist . and the l\\.»

TIM', IV-nuian Kxi)c(Hlion of 1912,
iiiukr ilic auspices of \'ale Uni-
versity and the Xational (ieo-
gra[)liic Society, was or^^'lnized with the
s])ecilic ])Ur])ose of carryin.i,^ on the work hut as tlie plans for his work called for
])ejj^un by the ^'ale renn ian lvxj)C(htion a stnd\ of a C(.niparali\ ely small rej^^ion.

the three months that he was ahle 10
s])end in JVru were sutVicient for his
needs. Practically the entire party re-
tnrniMl to .\\\\ ^'()rk in the latter part of
I )cceml)er, after an absence of seven
months.

W ith one exception, the nienihcrs of the
expedition enjoyed fairly jjtmd lioallh
ilnrini,' their stay in the field. .\n occa-
sional acute gastritis or enteritis resulted
from indiscretions in diet. Assistant
llardv and the soldier who accompanied
the t«>po.t,Maphical i>arty sutTered a slijjht
attack of malaria, hut this u.is soon over-
come hy (piinine.

In making a reconnaissance of llu* cx-
tremelv inaccessible and i^riniitiv* ruins

assistant to])o^raphers left New ^'ork
May \i\ and were followed three weeks
later by most of the others. The j^^eolo-
i^ist was not able to leave until Auj^ust ;

of 191 1. It was not intended to cover
such a lari,^e area as had been done the
Near bef(n-e. but to do intensive work in
a i)art of the held where onlv rci^onnais-
sance work had been ])re\iously at-
tempte<l.

The staff of thi- ex])edition consisted
of the followin.L,^: I'mf. Ilirani I'.in<;ham,
fhrector; I'rof. I lerbert \\. ( irei^ory. j^e-
oloi^ist ; Or. Ceorj^^e Iv hlaton. osleoloj.^ist ;
Air. .\lbert II. lUimstead. chief toi>o^ra-
pbcr: Mr. h'llwood ('. hj-dis, archeolo^i-
cal en<,nneer : Pr. Luther T. .\elson. sur-
i^eon; Mi-ssis. Kenneth C. lleald and
Ixobert Stephenson, assistant topo^^ra-
phers. and .\U-ssr^. Paul iU-^tor. ()sj^(km1
llard\-. and Joseph I,ittle, assistants.

® Con serv idayocc

ROUTE MAP OF
THE PERUVIAN EXPEDITION OF 191^

UNDER THE AUSPICES OF

YALE UNIVERSITY & THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY

HIRAM BINGHAM. DIRECTOR

Shading (ndica.les where topographic surveys were made.

MAP OF REGION EXPI.ORED BY YAI,E-NATI0XAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY EXPEDITION

The dotted lines indicate the routes taken by various members of the expedition and
show how thoroughly the country was covered during 1912. The shaded areas indicate the
extent of the careful topographical surveys. The black spot on the little map of South
America in the corner indicates the location and extent of the route map.

on the mountain of Huayna Picchu, As-
sistant Topographer Heald was so un-
fortunate as to lose his foothold on the
verge of a precipice, and had a very
narrow escape from death. This acci-
dent resulted in a rupture of the liga-
ments of his collar-bone, which later in-
capacitated him for some time and pre-
vented his accomplishing the reconnais-
sance work in the Pampaconas Valley
which had been planned.

Assistant Bestor had the misfortune
to contract amoebic dysentery while on
a journey in the interior. A^ery proba-
bly he was infected by drinking unboiled
water from the Apurimac River at
Pasaje. His condition failed to improve
after seven weeks of treatment, and he

was obliged to return to the United
States. He was kindly received at
Ancon Hospital, and was there put on
the road to complete recovery.

We found an epidemic of smallpox
and typhoid fever raging in the towns
of Arma, Puquiura, and Lucma. These
towns of 150 to 200 inhabitants had had
a death toll of 40 and 50 people each.

There was very little opportunity for
medical work among the native Indians,
but the more educated Peruvians were
extremely glad to come to the free
clinics.

There are no physicians in most of
the villages of the interior ; consequently
the owners of the large plantations have
to rely entirely on their own efforts at

388

i'liMi'j Ijv liiiaii

STRAW 150ATS OX THE) BEACH AT I'ACASMAVO, PERU

On their way to southern Peru tlie members of the expedition touched at various ports.
including Pacasmayo, where the fishermen use a peculiar form of canoe. These canoes, or
balsas, are made of rushes and have to be dried out each time they are used. The picture
also shows a typical fisherman's hut made of split bamboo.

' i.)t>> hv Iliram ningliant

A I'ISII I.K.M \.\ .\.\1) II IS «- .\T«.II .\T SAI.Wr.RUV. rKRl

AiiMtlur p.. It at which the expedition toucluMl was Salavorry. Here they mcl a fishcr-
niati and his hurtd brin^inK in two large skates. calUMJ rayas. which tlicy were takinp to sell
in the Salaverry matlvcf.

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IN FRONT OF the: CATHKDRAI, : LIMA, PERU

The first part of the expedition arrived in Lima just in time to witness the annual
procession of Corpus Christi. Starting from the cathedral, shown at the right, the pro-
cession, made up largely of little children in attractive costumes, passed around the four
sides of the principal plaza and returned to the cathedral. This picture, taken before the
procession started, shows the military band and escort, and the carpet of flowers and green
leaves over which the procession was to pass.

Photo by Hiram Bingham

CORPUS CHRISTI PROCESSION! LIMA, PERU

On one of the corners of the plaza a temporary altar, elaborately decorated, had been erected,
and here the Corpus Christi procession stopped while Benediction was given

390

curing diseases among the In-
dians in their employ. \'ery few
Peruvians are properly vacci-
nated.

STRAXGIC MODE OF VACCINATION

The Indians beheve that vacci-
nation with pus from the lesions
of a patient who has died with
smallpox confers immunity from
the disease. They practice this
sort of vaccination, with the re-
sult that many who are thus in-
oculated die from the disease.

There is no attempt made to
isolate the smallpox or typhoid
patients. Neighbors mingle freely
in the huts where the diseases
exist, and at the funeral of the
dead they have feasts in which
every one partakes, many using
common cu])s and dishes. The
clothes of the dead are washed
in the same stream from which
the ])e()])le in the villages get their
drinking water. There are no
windows in the highland huts,
atid there is no attempt at clean-
liness in the dark interiors. Of
course, fumigation is unknown
and vermin abound.

On many of the large plan-
tations conditions are better.
There the owners of the estates
vaccinate their Indian tenants
and laborers. In some of the
\illagcs a ])riest will vaccinate a
few during his annual or semi-
annual \isit. so that some do get
the benefit of ])rotcction from
smallpox. In the cities, on the-
other hand, while manv are \ac-
cinated. there are many who are
not. so that even in Cuzco small-
pox was raging fluring our slav ; and.
furthermore, practically no allemi)t was
being made at isolation or any other
measure to ])revent the spread of the
epidemic.

.Votwith.slanding many hardshii)> and
the presence of a considerable am(»unt
of illness in southern Tein. all the mem-
bers of our party worked hard and failh
fully, and the general results of the ex-
pedition were higiily satisfaclorv.

1 .. . . . •iiiKliam

CORPUS CIIRISTI PROCESSION : LIMA. PERI"

After Benediction had been given on tlie cc^rner of
the plaza, the procession moved slowly toward the
cathedral. The "conflict of old and new" is vividly
enii)hasized in this picture, where the repair wagon of
the trolley line is seen at the right only a few feet from
this religious procession so redolent of the middle ages.
'Pile towers of the cathedral are mr.de of plaster and
lath. In this land of eartlKpiakes it was not considereil
safe to huild them <»f st<me.

Ki:SL'I.TS ACIIllA i:i> ItV TIIK EXPEDITION

The work actually accomplished may
be groui)ed under the following heads:
(i) .Machu I'icchu; its archeology and
osteology, and the l()i)<>graphy aiitl for-
estralion of the surrounding region < »<•.•
pages 40 J tt) 517 ).

(j) The Cu/O) region: its geology,
osteology, and lop«)gnii)hy. with special
reference to the age of its vertebrate re
mains (sec jiages 41)0 to 5c/>).

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i'huto by 11, Iv. Tucker

A T^■1MCA1. rKKL\ 1A.\ I'LAZA

The llamas arc loaded with rock-salt. The open sewer in the center of the street is char-
acteristic of manv mountain towns

(3) A contour map from Abancay to
I'lKjuitira, ojmplclin*^ the topography of
the cross-section from Camana, on tlie
Pacific ( )cean, to canoe navigation on the
l^ruhamha, l)egun in i(;i i (see map,
page 3S8, and pages 506 to 510),

(4) Tlie to])ogra])liy an(l archeology
of \'itcos and vicinity (see i)ages 511 to

(5) The identification of ancient Inca
])lace names of \ ilcahaniha that occur in
the Si)anis]i chronicles, hiu do not ai)pear
on any known ma])S (see ])age 5-^o).

((}) An archeological and toi)ogra])ln-
cal reconnaissance of tlie hiiherto-micx-
l)lored Aol)aml)a \'a11cy (see pages 520
to 544).

(7) A n-coiniaissance of the nortlurn
roulc to ('ho(|(|uc'(|uirau and a hricf osU--

ological and arciieological reconnaissance
of that city (see pages 544 to 5^)i).

(8) An anthropological study of the
highland Jiuhans of southern Peru, in-
cluding the careful anthro])ometric meas-
urement of 145 inchviduals (see })ages
561 to 564).

(9) The taking of weather observa
tions on the road and in the camps and
the establishment at widely different ele-
vations of four meterological stations
along the 71st meridian west of Green-
wich (see ])ages 5^)4 and 565).

(10) The collection, wherever practi-
cable, of paleontoU^gical, ostcological,
ethnok gical. and arciieological material
(see page ^C>7).

'Phe following rcp(Mt tako up these-
subjects in the order named.

305

'tm>:Mii:* *

396

Photo by Iv, T. Xclson

A GROUP OF IXDIAX ALCALDES: SOUTHERN PERU

Near Chcccacupe Station was a grouj) of Indian Alcaldes bearintr their staffs of office
decorated with bands of silver. The Alcalde is the native Indian official who stands between
the local government magistrate and the natives of his village, or of his section of a city.
They do no manual labor, but frequently have anything but an easy time.

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Quichna. the language nf the Incas. Here they are seen harvesting a barley crop, takmg

the sheaves to the threshing floor, where c.ittlr and horse- iv. -till ns. d in tn.idinj out the
corn.

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A SCICXE AT SICUAXI STATION, SUL'TllKKX VMKV

At the railway stations between Lake Titicaca and Cuzco there were invarial)ly groups
of picturesquely clad Indians nearly always wearing a poncho, and sometimes felt hats, hut
more often the gaudily decorated reversil)le pancake-hat characteristic of this part of Peru.

i'hoto liy Iliratn BinKhnin

A i(»ri<-ii(iKM:i) siir.Ki' : cl'/ao. pijU"

In the (.'u/CM \ alley may he seen man> tliK-ks of «;heep. Most of them are of po<^r
c|ualit\ and tlu-y <|n n<>t compare favorahly with the Monded stock in Argentina. A n«tt
i:nc(Mnm<»n sight in the Cu/co Ik rds is an occasional four-iiorntd ram.

Photo by Hiram Bingham

A TYPICAI^ mountaineer's HUT : SOUTHERN PERU

It was sometimes necessary to camp very close to the Indians' huts, as there was so
little available flat land in many of the valleys. In such cases a family group was almost
sure to gather and satisfy their curiosity as to the ways of these visiting explorers.

Photo by Hiram Bingham

GROUP OF MOUNTAIN INDIANS: SOUTHERN PERU

The Mountain Indians were always interested in our work and usually were content to
silently watch the passage of our caravans, or quietly speculate on the activities of the topo-
graphical engineer. Once, however, the chief topographer was attacked by a dozen excited
Indians who thought that he and his assistant were working some devilment with their
strange instruments. Fortunately by diplomatic means they were dissuaded from doing
any harm. Note the bare feet of the women at this great altitude, which is over 14,000 feet.

400

I'lioto l)y liiram iJinghani

CARRYING ADOBE BLOCKS I SOUTHERN PERU

The modern method of building a house in Cuzco and in the uplands of Peru is to
begin by making a sufficient number of adol)e l)ricks (sundried mud mixed with straw or
rubbish). They are made just about as large as can be conveniently carried by one work-
man. In this case they were intended for the local magistrate's new house near Choquetira.

l'h..l.. I)\ I.. 1 . \

A TNI'ICAI. I'l.KlXIW INDIAN WOMAN AT (jrioi'ljAN A. SoUTllKUN I'KUr

fndian womtti in Peru arc never idle. Kvcn when walking along the roads they arc
aliUDSt always engaged in spiiuiing with old-fashioned whirl-bobs and spindles such as their
iincestors nsnl <i\.r a thousand years ago.

401

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i'iioto by Hiram Bingham

CROSSING THK APURIMAC RIVER

Among the many hardships encountered by the expedition was the difficulty of fording
the rivers under adverse circumstances. In this case, at Pasaje on the Apurimac, there was
no wood in the immediate vicinity available for rafts, and it was necessary to wait several
hours before the local ferryman, w^ho lived more than a mile away on the wrong side of
the river, could be aroused by firing of shots to bring his ancient raft to our assistance.

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photo by Hiram Bingham
TROUBLES WITH THE TRANSPORT : SOUTHERN PERU

Even after we had the raft our troubles were not at an end, for our mules strenuously
objected to jumping off the rocks into the deep and rapid current

402

IX THE WOXDERLAXD OF PERU 403

I. cliff, walls made of stones carefully fitted

together had been placed in the weak

THE CITY OF MACHU PICCHU, THE CRADLE ,^^,,^ ,^ ^hat the defenders of the valley,

OF THE INCA EMPIRE Standing on the top of the cliff, might

In 1911, while engaged in a search for shower rocks on an attacking force with-

Vitcos, the last Inca capital, I went down out any danger of their enemies being

the Urubamba Valley asking for reports able to scale the cliff (see pages 405 and

as to the whereabouts of ruins. 4^9) •

The first day out from Cuzco saw us The road, following in large part an

in Urubamba, the capital of a province, ancient footpath, is sometimes cut out of

a modern town charmingly located a few the side of sheer precipices, and at others

miles below Yucay, which was famous is obliged to run on frail brackets

for being the most highly prized winter propped against the side of overhanging

resort of the Cuzco Incas. The next day cliffs. It has been an expensive one to

brought us to Ollantaytambo, vividly de- build and will be expensive to maintain,

scribed by Squier in his interesting book The lack of it prevented earlier ex-

on Peru. Its ancient fortress, perched plorers from penetrating this cafion. Its

on a rocky eminence that commands a existence gave us the chance of discover-

magnificent view up and down the val- ing ]\Iachu Picchu (see pages 405, 420,

ley, is still one of the most attractive 421, 423).

ancient monuments in America. On the sixth day out from Cuzco we

Continuing on down the valley over a arrived at a little plantation called Man-
newly constructed government trail, we dorpampa. We camped a few rods away
found ourselves in a wonderful canon, from the owner's grass-thatched hut, and
So lofty are the peaks on either side that it was not long before he came to visit us
although the trail was frequently shad- and to inquire our business. He turned
owed by dense tropical jungle, many of out to be an Indian rather better than
the mountains were capi)ed with snow, the average, but overfond of ''fire-water."
and some of them had glaciers. There is His occupation consisted in selling grass
no valley in South America that has such and pasturage to passing travelers and in
varied beauties and so many charms. occasionally providing them with ardent

Not only has it snow-capped peaks, spirits. He said that on top of the mag-
great granite precipices, some of them nificcnt precipices near by there were
2,000 feet sheer, and a dense tropical some ruins at a place called Machu Pic-
jungle ; it has also many reminders of chu, and that there were others still more
the architectural achievements of a by- inaccessible at Huayna Picchu, on a ])eak
gone race. The roaring ra])ids of the not far distant from our camp. He of-
Urubamba arc frequently narrowed by fered to show me the ruins, which he had
skillfully constructed ancient retaining once visited, if I would pay him well for
walls. Wherever the encroaching preci- his services, llis idea of pro])er pay-
pires permitted it, the land between them ment was 50 cents for his day's labor,
and the river was terraced. With ])ains- This did not seem unreasc)nal)le. although
taking care the ancient inhabitants res- it was two and one-half times his usual
cued every available stri]) of arable land day's wage.

from the river. On one sightly bend in Leaving cani]^ soon after breakfast 1

the river, where there is a particularly joined the guide, and, accompanied by a

good view, and near a foaming water- soldier that had been kindly loaned me

fall, some ancient chief built a temple by the iVruvian government, j^lunged

whose walls, still standing, only ser\e to through the jungle to the ri\er bank, and

tantalize the traveler, for there is no came to a shakv little bridge made of

bridge within two days' jourm-y and the four tree trnnks bound together with

intervening ra])ids are im])assal)le. On a \ ines and stretching across a stream only

])recipitous and well-nigh imi)regnable a few inches above the roaring rapids.

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A |!IT Ol" TIM': KOAD NKAK MACHT I'UH'IH

riiot» by Hiiaiii Utniiiain

iRrnAMnA Kivr.K

Thr sinTMnndinKS of Matliii ricrlui arc n-markal.ly wild and the scenery is «ne\:
sil.lv Ik anil till. The citv lies above llu- preeipiees which sh.nv in the distance m \\u> , ■
ture. Tlie road in the foreKrotind was coiistriute<l a few years ago at ^rcat expense ly
the Peruvian K«»vernment. Karlv explorers. l)einK ..hlined to av.Md this i^.rtion o the
Uruhamha \ allev hv the al.sence of anv n.ad. were unaware of the wherealn.uts of Machu
I'icchu. ahhough' rumors of its existence had reached the ears of a I-rench explorer lorty
\t'ars a^;o.

4<>5

Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE URUBAMBA CANON

A part of the Urubamba Canon as seen from the top of Machu Picc.hu Mountain, 4,000

feet above the river

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EB^P

Photo by Iliram Bingham

THE TEMPLE OF THE THREE WINDOWS: MACHU PICCHU

It was this extraordinary temple, whose most characteristic feature is three large win-
dows, a unique occurrence in early Peruvian architecture, that led us to the belief that
Machu Picchu might be Tampu Tocco. the mythical place from which the Incas came when
they started out to found that great empire which eventually embraced a large part of
South America (see also pages 410, 414, 431, and 489).

On the other side we had a hard climb ;
first through the jungle and later up a
very stiff, almost precipitous, slope.
About noon we reached a little grass hut,
where a good-natured Indian family who
had been living here for three or four
years gave us welcome and set before us
gourds full of cool, delicious water and
a few cold boiled sweet potatoes.

Apart from another hut in the vicinity
and a few stone-faced terraces, there
seemed to be httle in the way of ruins,
and I began to think that my time had
been wasted. However, the view was
magnificent, the water was delicious, and
the shade of the hut most agreeable. So
we rested a while and then went on to
the top of the ridge. On all sides of us
rose the magnificent peaks of the Uru-
bamba Canon, while 2,000 feet below us
the rushing waters of the noisy river,
making a great turn, defended three sides
of the ridge, on top of which we were
liunting for ruins. On the west side of
the ridge tlie tliree Indian families who
had chosen this eagle's nest for their
home had built a little path, part of

which consisted of crude ladders of vines
and tree trunks tied to the face of the
precipice.

Presently we found ourselves in the
midst of a tropical forest, beneath the
shade of whose trees we could make out
a maze of ancient walls, the ruins of
buildings made of blocks of granite,
some of which were beautifully fitted to-
gether in the most refined style of Inca
architecture. A few rods farther along
we came to a little open space, on which
were two splendid temples or palaces.
The superior character of the stone
work, the presence of these splendid edi-
fices, and of what appeared to be an
unusually large number of finely con-
structed stone dwellings, led me to believe
tliat ]\Iachu Picchu might prove to be the
largest and most important ruin discov-
ered in South America since the days of
the Spanish conquest.

A few weeks later I asked ]\Ir. H. L.
Tucker, the engineer of the 191 1 Expe-
dition, and ]Mr. Paul Baxter Lanius, the
assistant, to go to ^Nlachu Picchu and
spend three weeks there in an eft'ort to

408

partially clear the
ruins and make such
a map as was possi-
ble in the time at
their disposal. The
result of this work
confirmed me in my
belief that here lay a
unique opportunity
for extensive clear-
ing and excavating.
The fact that one
of the most impor-
tant buildings was
marked by three
large windows, a
rare feature in Pe-
ru \'ian architecture,
and that many of the
other buildings had
windows, added to
the significant cir-
cumstance that the
city was located in
the most inaccessible
part of the Andes,
inclined me to feel
that there was a
chance that Machu
Picchu might j^nne
to be Tampu Tocco,
that mythical ])lace
from which the In-
cas had come when
they started out to
found Cuzco and to
make the beginnings
of that great empire
which was to em-
brace a large ])art of
South America.

A.\ .WCIK.VT INCW
TK.\l)lTlO\

A story told to
some of the earl\
vSj)anisli chroniclers
in regard to that
(list a n t liistorical
event r u n s some-
what as f( illow^ :
"^ T h o u s a n d s of
vi'.irs ago there h\rd
in Mil- higlilands of
Pern a niegalitbic
foils wlio (k'velojji'd
a nniarkable civili-

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zation, and who left, as architec-
tural records, such cyclopean struc-
tures as the fortresses of Sacsahu-
aman and Ollantaytambo. These
people were attacked by barbarian
hordes coming from the south —
possibly from the Argentine pam-
pas. They were defeated, and fled
into one of the most inaccessible
Andine canons. Here, in a region
strongly defended by nature, they
established themselves ; here their
descendants lived for several cen-
turies. The chief place was called
Tampu Tocco. Eventually regain-
ing their military strength and be-
coming crowded in this mountain-
ous valley, they left Tampu Tocco,
and, under the leadership of three
brothers, went out of three win-
dows (or caves) and started for
Cuzco.*

The migration was slow and de-
liberate. They eventually reached
Cuzco, and there established the
Inca kingdom, which through sev-
eral centuries spread by conquest
over the entire plateau, and even
as far south as Chile and as far
north as Ecuador.

This Inca empire had reached its
height when the Spaniards came.
The Spaniards were told that
Tampu Tocco was at a place called
Pacaritampu, a small village a day's
journey southwest cf Cuzco and in
the Apurimac A'alley. The chron-
iclers duly noted this location, and
it has been taken for granted ever
since that Tampu Tocco was at Pa-
caritampu.

THE SIGNIFICANCE OP^ "wiNDOWS"

Tampu means ''tavern,'' or "a
place of temporary abode." Tocco
means ''window." The legend is
distinctly connected with a place of
windows, preferably of three win-
dows, from which the three broth-
ers, the heads of three tribes or
clans, started out on the campaign
that founded the Inca empire.

So far as I could discover, few
travelers have ever taken the trou-

^ * See Markham's "Incas of Peru/'

g Chapter IV.

410

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Till; kUlXS Ui- i'lsAC

A nearer view of part of tlicsc remarkable ruins, wliicli rc'scnil)k' in the care and exquisite
tinisli of the stone-cutting tlie best ruins at Macbn l*itilin and in Cuzco

i'hotu by 11. i.„ Tuckvr

1,1, A MAS IN Tllli VUCAV NALLKN

'I 111 llatnas are carrying; bunrlles of firo-wood. The total carRo of each llama is \vi»rth
al)out JO ceins. The llama is valued at ahout $.VOC). Hack of the trees on either 5idc of the
rn.id are fruit orchards int«rs|»ersrd with acres of strawberry fiehU. Tins valley i% the
Karden spot of southern Peru. The dinuite is like that of ^.'alifornia.

4IJ

Photo by Hiram Bingham

A BIT OF* OLI.ANTAYTAMBO, SOUTHERN PERU

On top of the crag, which overlooks the little village of Ollantaytambo, the Incas and
their predecessors built a remarkable fortress. Some of the single stones used in the con-
struction of this fortress weigh over eight tons.

ble to visit Pacaritampu, and no one
knew whether there were any buildings
with windows, or caves, there.

It was part of our plan to settle this
question, and Dr. Eaton undertook the
reconnaissance of Pacaritampu. He re-
ports the presence of a small ruin, evi-
dently a kind of rest-house or tavern,
pleasantly located in the Apurimac \"al-
ley, but not naturally defended by na-
ttire and not distingtiished by windows.
In fact, there are neither windows nor
caves in the vicinity, and the general
topography does not lend itself to a ra-
tional connection with the tradition re-
garding Tampu Tocco (see page 415).

The presence at Machu Picchu of
three large windows in one of the most
conspicuous and best-built structtires led
me to wonder whether it might not be
possible thcit the Incas had purposely de-
ceived the Spaniards in placing iampu

Tocco southwest of Cuzco when it was
actually north of Cuzco, at Machu Picchu.
The Incas knew that Machu Picchu,
in the most inaccessible part of the Andes,
was so safely hidden in tropical jungles
on top of gigantic precipices that the
Spaniards would not be able to find it
unless they were guided to the spot. It
was naturally to their advantage to con-
ceal the secret of the actual location of
Tampu Tocco, a place wdiich their tra-
ditions must have led them to venerate.
The topography of the region meets the
necessities of the tradition : The presence
of windows in the houses might readily
give the name Tampu Tocco, or ''place
of temporary residence where there are
windows,'' to this place, and the three
conspicuous windows in the principal
temple fits in well with the tradition of
the three brothers coming out of three
windows.

414

■ l<> by (•. !•". Jiat.'U

TIlJv RL'IXS OK MAUCAl.l.AL 1 A, MiAK i'AC AKIT AM i'U

A small ruin pleasantly located in the Apurimac \'alley. This is the principal ruin of
the little group wliich the Incas made the Si)aniards believe was the home of their an-
cestors. The surrounding country is not naturally defended and the ruins are not dis-
tinguished by windows. In other words, this ruin does not tit in with the traditions as
described in the text (see pages 409, 410, and 414).

i'nuio by K't. F. lUioa

A .\ ( ) r 1 1 I . K' \ I I : W ( ) I* M A L C A IJ . A C 1 A

The interior of tiie principal lindding at Pacaritampn. Notice the liolcs cut in the dw.r.
posts, to whi^h a bar intended to dose the door might he fastcncti

J»5

Photo by Hiram Bingham

wondi:rfui, masonry at machu picchu

Two of the windows in the remarkable three-wnndowed temple at Machu Picchu, which
furnishes part of the convincing evidence that Machu Picchu and not Pacaritampu was the
home of the ancestors of the Incas (see pages 409, 410, and 414).

The interest in this historical problem,
connected with the fact that at Machu
Picchu we had a wonderfully picturesque
and remarkably large well-preserved city,
untouched by Spanish hands, led us to
feel that the entire place needed to be
cleared of its jungle and carefully studied
architecturally and topographically.

DIFFICULTIES OF THE APPROACH TO
MACHU PICCHU

We decided to make a thorough hunt
for places of burial and to collect as
much osteological and ethnological ma-
terial as could be found. Our task was
not an easy one.

The engineers of the 1911 expedition — •
H. L. Tucker and P. B. Lanius — who
hiad spent three weeks here making a
preliminary map, had been unable to use
the trail by which I had first visited
Machu Picchu, and reported that the
trail which they used was so bad as to
make it impossible to carry heavy loads
over it.

We knew that mule transportation was
absolutely impracticable under these con-
ditions, and that it was simply a question
of making a foot-path over which Indian

bearers could carry reasonably good-sized
packs.

The first problem was the construction
of a bridge over the Urubamba River to
reach the foot of the easier of the two
possible trails.

The little foot-bridge of four logs that
I had used when, visiting Machu Picchu
for the first time,, in July, 1911, was so
badly treated by the early floods of the
rainy season that when Mr. Tucker went
to Machu Picchu at my request, two
months later, to make the reconnaissance
map, he found only one log left, and was
obliged to use a difficult and more dan-
gerous trail on the other side of the ridge.

Knowing that probably even this log
had gone with the later floods, it was
with some apprehension that I started
Assistant Topographer Heald out from
Cuzco early in July, 19 12, with instruc-
tions to construct a bridge across the
Urubamba River opposite Machu Picchu.
and make a good trail from the river to
the ruins — a trail sufficiently good for
Indian bearers to use in carrying our
60-pound food-boxes up to the camp and.
later, our 90-pound boxes of potsherds

416

I'hulu h,\ llirain liiiij^hai:

PART OF THE SACRED PLAZA: MACHU PICCIIU

One of the gable ends of the three-windowed temple. Notice the tremendous size of
the granite blocks in the lower part of the wall. The small ventilating window, of which
there is one in each end of the building, is not visible when the structure is looked at from
bclf>w, and docs not affect the striking character of the three large windows in the east wall
of this building (see i)ages 408, 431. and 4<H<j).

and si)ecimcns down to the mule trail
near the river.

SOME RAPID BRIDGE IIUIEDI.XO

At the mcxst feasible ])oint for buildinf^
a foot-bridge the IJrubaniba is some So
feet wide. The roarinj^ rai)ids are cH-
vidc'd into four streams l)y large boulders
in the river at this ])oint. The first reach
is S feet long, the next nearly 40 feet,
the next about 22 feet, and the final one
15 feet.

I'or material in the construction of the
bridge .Mr. ileald had hardwood timber
growing on the bank of the stream; for
tools he had axes, machetes, and i)icks —
all made in Hartford and a coil of
manila rope. b'or workmen he had 10
unwilling Indians, who had been forced
to accom])an\' him by the governor of
the nearest town. I'or "guide, counsellor,
and friend" he had an excellent i'eruvian
soldier, who could be coimted on to sic
to it that the- Indians kept faithfully at
their task. In describing his work, Mr.
I leald sa\ s :

■The first ste]) wa^ the felling of the
tinilicr foi- the first two reaches. That

was cjuiekly done and the short 8-f(K>t
space put in ])lace. Then came the task
of getting a stringer to the rock forming
the next ])ier. My first scheme was to
lay a log in the water, jjarallel to the
bank and upstream from the bridge, and.
fastening the lower end. to let tlie current
swing the ui)i)er end aroimd imtil it
lodged on the central boulder. ( )n try-
ing this the timber proved t«» be so heavy
that it sank and was lost.

"We next tried building out over tlic
water as far as we coidd. Two heavy
logs were put in place, with their bulls
on the shore and their outer ends pro-
jecting .some 10 feet beyond the first
span. The sh«)re ends were weighted
wuh rocks and cross-|)ieees were lashe<!
on with lianas (sinewy vines), making
the bridge about 4'j feet wi<le. as far
as it went. Then a forke<l upright lo
feet high was lashe(I ami wedged into
place at the end «»f the first pier (see
I'ig. I. page 422).

THE CROSSING ACHIKVKI)

" \ 1<»''J^. I'K^i^ stringer was now piishctl
out on the completcil part and the v\u\

417

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418

i'hoto Ity Ilii.un Ilitigham
A PICTMRKSgUi: I'Ain oi* THK grand canon of THK URrHAMHA ON TIIK ROAD TO
M \riIU I'lCCIIU, SOUTUKKN I'KRIJ (SEE PACE 403)

419

Photo by Hiram Bingiiam
A GOOD MULE ROAD IN SOUTHERN PERU
A view of the road in the bottom of the cafioii near IMachu Picchu (see page 403)

420

IMiuto by lliram Hingham

iiii; k(>\i) IN Tin: luriiAMi'. A canon nkau maciiu imcciii'

If it had not lucii for this mw K"Vfrium*iit road cut at K^'at expense in the (ace ot the
precipices of the llruhainha Canon, it would not have l>een posMhIe lor us to liave reached
the vicinity of Machu Ticchu witli our nudes and supplies. This ancient city i% in the heart
of a reKion most \v(»n<hrfnlly defended hy nature: the most inacersHihlc part «»f tlic Andes

(sec p.iKi- A^K\ )

•J 'I

Rock No. I.

Hock No. 2.

FIGURE I. THE FIRST STAGE IN MAKING THE BRIDGE BY WHICH WE CROSSED THE
URUBAMBA RIVER TO REACH THE FOOT OF THE PRECIPICE NEAR MACHU PICCHU

Rock No. 2.

FIGURE 2. "A EONG STRINGER WAS NOW PUSHED OUT ON THE COMPLETED PART
AND THE END THRUST OUT OVER THE WATEr"

FIGURE 3. THE FINAE STAGE IN GETTING THE HEAVY TIMBER ACROSS THE RAPIDS

(see pages 417 AND 423)

422

I'hoto hy iiirain i.iiign.ii;i

IIKALUS l{RID(iE: MACllU I'lCCJIU

Tiie completed bridge over tlie rapids of the Urubamba, showing the forked upright
still in i)]ace. The great difficulty in building this bridge lay in the fact that the timber was
of such density that it would noi flcjat.

thrust out over the water toward
rock Xo. 2, the end bein^ held u\)
\)y a roi)e fastened around it and
passing throuj^h the fork of the
uj)ri^ht (see Fig. 2, page 422).

"This method prcjved success-
ful, the timber's end being laid on
the rock which formed our second
j)ier. Two more hght timbers
were put across this way, and then
a heavy one was tried, part of its
weight being borne by the i)ieces
already across by means of a yoke
locked in the end (see Fig. 3).
This and another ])iece were suc-
cessfully passed over, and after
that there was little troul)lc. cross-
])ieces being used to form the next
and shorter s|)an.

"^ )n the second day of work w r
finished the bridge about noon an*!
startc-d making a trail up the hill
inidcr the gmdance of a half-
breed who li\ed in the \icinily.
After tiu' first (|uarter mile the
going was very slow. Xot only
did the steepness of the slo])e ami
the tangled condition of the cane
jungle retard us. but the men were
xc-ry nun h afraid of snakes, a fear
whicii prttved itself justified, for
one of them was very nearly bit-
ten b\ a little gray snake about 12
inches long.

**'J'he second dav's work on the

i'hoto by lliram itinciiam

Till. i;xim:i)ITio.\ i:n koi n: to macih* ruviii':

IKIM \MH,\ CANON

A newly rcpairn! part of the government r.'.id
ami a portion of our caravan en route to Machu

rircluj.

423

trail took us to the
city. The path was
still far from being
finished, though.
There were m a n y
places which were al-
most vertical, in which
we had to cut steps.
Up these places we
now made zigzags, so
that there was com-
paratively little diffi-
culty in climbing.

"On the first day I
had set fire to the
cane in order to clear
the trail. This fire
did not clear much,
however. On the
second day I was
about a quarter of a
mile behind the work-
men, or rather above
them, when suddenly
Tomas (the Peruvian
soldier mentioned
above), who was with
me, said : Xook, they
have fired the cane.'
Sure enough, they had
started it, and in a
minute it had gained
headway and was
roaring up toward us,
the flames reaching 15
or 20 feet into the air.

ESCAPE FROM FIRE IX
THE JUNGLE

''There was nothing
for us but to run, and
we did that, tearing
through the jungle
down hill in an eft'ort
to get around the side
of the fire. Suddenly,
on one of my jumps,
I didn't stop when I
expected to, but kept
right on through the
air. The brush had
masked a nice little
S-foot jump-oft*, and
I got beautifully
bumped. In a minute
there came a thump,
and Tomas landed be-

424

burveyeO by Robert Stephenson
Drawn by Albert H. Bumstead

MAI' (Jl- MALllL riLLiiU AM) \1C1M1\

Tliis relict map of Macliii Picchu and vicinity gives a good K«-''Hral idea «»l llie relative
position of Hcald's bridge, the ruins, and the two peaks — Machu I'icchu and Huayna I'iccliu.
It also shows the location of the two trails up from the I'ruhamlia River and enables one
to form some concej)tion of the extent of the ruins. The map is misleading in that the
precipices are tlatteiied out as they would be if one we.e looking down upon them fn»m a
balloon.

side nic. It aiiuiscd hk- so iniuli to of the .ijciicral work of clearing and cx-

watrli him liial 1 forgot aU ahoui my cavatinj^' the ruins.

own jolted hones. There was iiothinj.; Mr. 1 leabl was at once rdicvet! from

broken, however, and we made otir \\a\ fmtluT duty al Maelui Piechii. whore ho

witlioiit mi:eh more tnnihle ai'oimd the had jn^t he^nn the work of clearing;, and

fire atid fell upon the peons, who were was askc 1 to see whether he coubl jjct to

gathered in a hnneh, speeiilatin^ as to the top of the neiglilH»ring peak, called

where w c- mii^dit hi . ' "lln.iyna ricchii." and investigate the

Three days later I reached .Maclin story that there were ntagnificent nn'iis

ricclui in company with 1 )r. l"aton, onr njMUi its sninmit. The same huhan who

osteologist, and Mr. Mrdis. who. as arche- ha<l originally toM nic alxnit the ntins at

ological engineer, was to have charge Machii I'icchu hail re|H*ate<lly declared

425

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426

EXCAVATING AT MACIIU PICCHU

IMioto by Hiram liinghaiii

Commencing the work of excavating in the Chief Temple at Maclui Picchii. Lieutenant
Sotomayor, at the right, in charge of the gang of Indians

that tliosc on Iluayna Picclui were only
slightly inferior. Mr. Hcald's report of
his work on TTuayna Picchii rinis in part
as follows :

''Jluayna Picclui, lyin^ to the north of
Machii Picchn, and connected with it hy
a narrow neck, rises some 2,500 feet
ahove the Uruhamha River, which nnis
around its hase. On one side, the south,
this elevation is reached by what is prac-
tically one Cf)in])lete precipice. On tlic
other, while there are sheer ascents, there
arc also slopes, and. accordinj^ to the
account of one Arteap^a, who claims to
have explored the forests which cover a
pood deal of it, was once cultivated, the
slojies ])einp converted into level fields
hy low earth tciraces fsee paj^c 424).

attkmi'T at scamnc. In■A^■.\.\ iMCciir

*"Phis nioniilain 1^. like ATaclui Picchu,
cut from mcdimn-prained j^ray to red
[^^ranitc. which accounts in part for its

sharj), crapg^y outlines. Tlie lower slopes,
where there are any, are covered with
forest growths of larp^e trees. .\ peculiar
thini^ in this connecti(Mi is one solitary
palm tree, which rises above the (^ther
vegetation. Xear the t«>p the larj^c trees
j^ive place to cane and mescjiute. while
many slopes have nothinj^ but J^rass. 'I'his
last is due more to steepness and lack of
soil than to any peculiarity of elevation
or location. h< twever.

"My first trip to reach the summit t)f
Iluayna Picchu and to ascertain what
ruins, if any, were on it. ended in failure.
The only man who had been up (.\r-
tiai^'a), who lives at Mainlor Pampa. was
drunk, and refused to fjc^ with nic; so 1
decided to try to find a way without bis
help. T knew where bi< bridjjc crns^icd
the I'rubamb.i River and where be bad
started up when be went tbc year Ix^forc.
With tbe*^e two things to bel]> nu\ I
thought that 1 conld very likely find as

4-7

riiuto by llirain Ui.ig^.d.a

A BURIAI. CAVE AT MACHU PICCHU

The first burial cave discovered at Machu Picchu containing a human skull. The
picture was taken after partial excavation, showing the skull still in place. In all, more
than 100 such caves were opened and a large quantity of skeletal material secured.

THE SAME CAVE FROM A DISTANCE OF 20 FEET

Photo by Hiram Bingham
MACHU PICCHU

It was extremely difficult to find these caves. Here is a picture of cave No. i from a
distance of only 20 feet. The entrance to the cave is near the center of the picture. It
may be imagined that not the least portion of our difficulties was the cutting of paths through
this dense tropical jungle and the transi)ortation of material from the caves in which it was
found. This cave was on the side of the mountain about 800 feet below the city of Machu
Picchu (see pages 446 and 447).

428

riiuto by Hiram Ltiughain

A LARGE BURIAL CAVE: MACIIU PICCIIL'

A flashlight view of cave No. Q, one of the larger burial caves, in the floor of which a
number of skeletons were found. On the ground among the rocks were pieces of beautiful
large pots, which may have been destroyed at tlic time of burial (see pages 446-447).

ail
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COF.LKCTINC. Tin: SKKI.r.TAL UK.M.M.NS ()!■ TIIK \NTII-\T INIIAHITANTS ! M.VCIIU

IMCCIIU

A ll.ishlight view ..f the intrrior of cave No. II. showing the oMcnli»Ki5t. Dr. Ivalon.
d his Indi.in hcli.crs (hiring the excavation of a hnman skrlclnn. The man at the riKlU
a soldirr kindly loaned to us by the IVruvian govirnimnt to assist us in .securing laNTers.

4-f)

Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE LARGEST CAVE AT MACHU PICCHU

A flashlight view of the interior of the largest cave, at the base of one of the great
precipices of Huayna Picchu. The cave is nearly 90 feet in length and is partly lined with
cut stones. It had long been known to the Indian treasure-hunters of the neighborhood,
and consequently yielded no results (see pages 446-447 V

THE CENTER OF THE BEST COLLECTING DISTRICT

Photo by Hiram Bingham
MACHU PICCHU

Archeological Engineer Erdis standing near one of the boulders within the city of
Machu Picchu, in the vicinity of which he made the discovery that articles of bronze were
likely to be found 2 or 3 feet underground (see page 449).

430

THE TKMPLK OF THE THREE WIXDoWS: MACHI'

Piiutu by iiiram iiinghaiu
PICCHU

The floors of the principal temples yielded little, hut on the terraces ])encath the walls
of the three-windowed temple, here shown, we found potsherds and artifacts to a depth of
four or five feet (see pages 440 and 449).

much as he had. Accordingly. I started
with four peons and Tomas Cobines. the
soldier, to have a look.

"The river was j)assed easily on the
ratiier shaky four-j)ole bridge, and we
started up the sl()j)e, cutting steps as we
went, for it was almost vertical. About
30 feet up it moderated, however, and.
after that, wliile it was stee]), we seldom
had to cut stei)s for more than 20 to 30
feet on a stretch. The greatest hindrance
was the cane and long grass, through
which it was hard to cut a way with the
machetes.

"( )ur ])rogress, slow at first, got abso-
lutely snail-like as the men got tired: so,
getting impatient, I resolved to ])ush on
alone, telling them to follow the marks
of my machete, and charging Tonias to
.sec that they niade a good trail an<l (H<1
not loaf.

"I pushed oil up the hill, clearing my
wa\ with the machete, or down on all
tonrs, following a bear trail (of uliirli
there were niany^, sto])ping occasionall\
to o])en my shirt at the throat and cool
off. as it was terribly hot. The brush
tlii<»ui4li whicli I made ni\' wa\' was in

great j)art mcsquite, terribly tcnigh and
with heavy, strong thorns. If a l)ranch
was not cut through at one blow, it wa^
j)retty sure to come whipping back and
drive half a dozen spikes into hands.
arms, and body. Luckily I had had
enough practice to learn h«nv to strike
with a heavy shoidder blow, and for the
most j)art made clean strokes, but I didn't
get away untouched by any means.

A N AKKOW ESCAI'K

**]''inally. alnnit 3 p. m., I had almost
gained the toj) of the lowest part of the
ridge, which nms along like the back-
])lates of some spined (Hnosaur. 'I'lie
trees had given way to grass or Ixnrc
rock, the face of the nn-k being practi-
cally vertical. .V ditf some Jix) feet higli
stood in my way. Hy g«>ing out to the
end of the ridge I thought I coiiM K>ok
almost straight down to the river, which
looked m(»re like a trout-bn»ok than a
river at that distance, though its roar in
the rapids came up distinctly.

"I was just climbing out on tlic top of
the lowest *back-plate' when the gra^s
and soil mider my feet let go. and I

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434

A STAC.i: IN TIN-: CI.KARINC. ()!• M AilIU I'ICCIIIT

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436

ONlv oi" TIM. M.\(,M1UKNT I'KIXI ru I. s Wliuil .M\i>K TIIK CITV <)l' MACIIl* IMt"< '"

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dropped. For about 20 feet
there was a slope of about 70
degrees, and then a jump of
about 200 feet, after which it
would be bump and repeat
down to the river.

''As I shot down the slop-
ing surface I reached out and
with my right hand grasped a
mesquite bush that was grow-
ing in a crack about 5 feet
above the jump-off. I was
going so fast that it jerked
my arm up, and, as my body
was turning, pulled me from
my side to my face ; also, the
jerk broke the ligaments hold-
ing the outer ends of the
clavicle and scapula together.
The strength left the arm with
the tearing loose of the liga-
ments, but I had checked
enough to give me a chance
to get hold of a branch with
my left hand.

''After hanging for a mo-
ment or two, so as to look
everything over, and be sure
that I did nothing wrong, I
started to work back up. The
hardest part was to get my
feet on the trunk of the little
tree to which I was holding
on. The fact that I was wear-
ing moccasins instead of boots
helped a great deal here, as
they would take hold of the
rock. It was distressingly
slow work, but after about
half an hour I had gotten
back to comparatively safe
footing. As my right arm was
almost useless, I at once made
my way down, getting back to
camp about 5.30, taking the
workmen with me as I went.

"On this trip I saw no sign
of Inca work, except one
small ruined wall. . . ."

SUCCESS AT THE THIRD
ATTE^IPT

Five days later ]\Ir. Heald
judged that his arm was in
sufficiently good shape so that
he could continue the work,
and he very pluckily made

438

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another attempt to reach
the top of Hna\iia Picchu.
This Hkewise ended in fail-
ure; but on the following
day he returned to the at-
tack, followed his old trail
up some 1,700 feet, and,
guided by the same half-
breed who had told us
about the ruins, eventually
reached the top. His men
were obliged to cut steps in
the steej) slope for a ])art
of the distance, until they
came to some of stone
stairs, which led them i)rac-
tically to the summit.

The top consisted of a
juml^lcd mass of granite
boulders about 2.500 feet
above the river. There
were no h(3uses. though
there were several flights
of steps and three little
caves. Xo family could
have wished to live there.
It might have been a signal
station.

After Mr. Ileald had left
Machu Picchu we set our-
selves tu work to see
whelher excavation in the
I)rincipal structures would
lead to discovery of any
sherds or artifacts. It did
not take us long to discover
that there were jK)tsherds
outside of and beneath the
outer walls of several of
the imiK)rtant structures.
but t)ur <ligging inside the
walls of the i)rinci|)al tem-
j)les was almost without
any results whatstiever. Wc
did find that the iVxir of
the principal temple had
been carefully ma<le of a
mixture of granite gravel,
sand, and clay. Iai<l on top
of small stones, and these
again en top of a mass of
granite rocks and Unilders.
When the temple was in
use this clean, while lltH»r
nuisl have Ixren an attract
ive feature.

439

Photo by Hiram Bingham
THE WESTERN TERRACES AND THE STEEP WIXDIXG STAIRWAY: MACHU PICCHU

It was dijfficult to feed the thousands of people who at one time may have occupied
Machu Picchu, and every square foot of available land was terraced off to provide a place
for the crops of Indian corn and potatoes, which were their chief resource. These terraces
were all connected by stairways, sometimes steep, narrow, and winding like the one on the
left, at other times consisting of a row of projecting stones in the face of the terrace, as is
the case in the second terrace below the lowest line of niches in this picture (pages 454-459).

THE 1?IRST EXCAVATIONS

Our workmen excavated with a will,
for the tests made with a crowbar gave
stich resotinding hollow sounds that they
felt sure there was treasure to be found
beneath the floor of the ancient temple.
In places the excavation was carried to
a depth of 8 or 9 feet, and practically
the entire floor of the temple was exca-
vated to a depth of 3 or ^ feet ; but all

this back-breaking work ended only in
disappointment. There were many crev-
ices and holes between the boulders
under the floor, but nothing in them —
not even a bone or potsherd.

Digging in the temple of the Three
^Mndows had a similar negative restilt,
but digging outside on the terrace below
the three windows resulted in a large
quantity of decorated potsherds. ^lost

440

I'lioto )t> llitain Uin^

AN ANCIKNT SIC.NAL STATION oN M.Ulll' PICCIIU MOUNTAIN
On tl,c vcrv summit of ono of the most stupcmlous prccipirr. thr Inca« conMructcd •
siKtial stati..n fmm which the appmach of an enemy cu„UI he ..

in

442

rii»to It) lliiAm llingham

TiiK TOP oi* MACiiu ricciir moi'ntain

very
slil'l

Atiotlur iK.rtinii (.f tlu- mountain-top, showing a skilfully laid retaining wall on the
top of a prtcipirc ovtrlianKitijs' the canon. If any of the \v.»rkn)on who Iniilt that wall
)i'(l, lie must liavr falirn a thousimd feet hcforc striking anv i>ortion of the cliflf.

44:*

Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE DRY MOAT OF THE DEFENSES OF MACHU PICCHU

Just outside the inner walls of Machu Picchu the builders constructed a dry moat which
ran directly across the hill. In this picture of the moat the city walls may be seen above
on the right and the agricultural terraces on the left (see page 453).

444

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of them were 2 to 4 feet under
the surface. It seemed as though
it had been the custom for a long
period of time to throw earthen-
ware out of the windows of this
edifice.

At the end of a week of hard
and continuous labor we had not
succeeded in finding a single skull,
a single burial cave, nor any pieces
of bronze or pots worth mention-
ing. We did not like to resort to
the giving of prizes at such an
early stage. A day or two spent
in hunting over the mountain side
with the Indians for burial caves
yielding no results, we finally of-
fered a prize of one sol (50 cents
gold) to any workman who would
report the whereabouts of a cave
containing a skull, and who would
leave the cave exactly as he found
it, allowing us to se@ the skull ac-
tually in position.

THE SEARCH FOR BURIAI, CAVES

The next day all the workmen
were allowed to follow their own
devices, and they started out early
on a feverish hunt for burial
caves. The half dozen worthies
whom we had brought with us
from Cuzco returned at the end
of the day tattered and torn, sad-
der and no wiser. They had
hewed their way through the
jungle, one of them had cut open
his big toe with his machete, their
clothes were in shreds, and they
had found nothing.

But the Indians who lived in
the vicinity, and who had un-
doubtedly engaged in treasure-
hunting before, responded nobly
to the offer of a prize, and came
back at the end of the day with
the story that they had discovered
not one, but eight, burial caves,
and desired eight soles.

This was the beginning of a
highly successful effort to locate
and collect the skeletal remains of
the ancient inhabitants of Machu
Picchu. Fifty-two graves in and
near this ancient city were exca-
vated by Dr. Eaton, our osteolo-
gist, and fully as many more were

446

m.^,'^

afterward located and ex-
plored under the supervision
of Mr. Erdis, the archeologi-
cal engineer. The greatest
number of these graves were
in caves under the lars^e boul-

0 ders and projecting ledges of
[: the mountain side, and the
w method usually followed by
'rt the osteologist in exploring
5 them was, first, to photograph

1 the entrance of the cave from
■^ without, after which the jjrave

^ was opened and its contents
^ carefully removed. Measure-
'^ ments were taken and dia-
o grams were made to show the
t: position of the human sk<.le-
tons and the arrangement <*i
5 the accompanying pottery, "ii-
*" plcments, ornaments, a n d
2 l)ones of lower animals.

In a few instances it was
"5 ])ossil)le also to photograph
£ the interiors of graves.

CON TK. NTS or THK HURIAL
CAVKS

In some i^i the caves only
the most fragmentary skeletal
remains were found ; in others
onlv the larger l)ones and a
skull or two ; while others con-

0 tained not only nearly ci»m-
"^ pletc skeletons, but iH)ts in
"H more or less perfect stale of

'"' preservation, and occasionally

.^' pieces of bronze. In this way

'^ a large and valuable collecti«»n

^ was maile of human .NkelettMi*^.

Z pottery, and other artifacts <»l

£ various materials, including

1 some of the t(X)ls probably
£ used by the Inca or prc-Inca

2 stone-masons in the more in-
!^ tricate parts of their work.

J5 Heforc dismissing the siil>-
i jcct of the ancient graves, it
o niav l)c noted that the custom
seeins to have U-cn. whenever
jKKSsible. l«> bury the dea<l in
8 the sitting |H»siti«»n. with the
"^ knees raised. In a very few
instances iMMlie-s were intcrre<l
crudelv f'-h;..ne<l "U»llle-

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447

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448

Photo by lliraui Uit:.

THE MAIN RO.VD TO MACHU PICCHU

A nearer view of the graded approach to Machii Picchu ; part of the principal road which

connected the citv with tlie outer world

tors were greatly annoyed by the veno-
nions serpents of the rej^io.i, and several
of these serpents were killed and ])re-
served in alcohol.

The burial caves occur generally on
the sides of the mountain below the
ruins. As they are in well nigh inacces-
sible locations and more or less covered
with dense tropical jungle, the work of
visiting and excavating them was ex-
tremely arduous, and it is most highly to
the credit of those engaged in it that so
many caves were opened and so nuicli
material gathered. I'ractically every
s(|uare rod of the sides of the ridge was
explored. The last caves that were
opened were very near the I'rubamba
River itself, where the ancient laborers
may have had tiieir huts.

it is too early as yet to give any gen-
eralizations witli rcgar<l to tlie anatomi-
cal characteristics of the .Maciui ricchu
people, as evidenced by their skeletal re-
mains. .V few of the skulls show de-
cided marks of artificial deformation,
biU most of them are normal.

Mr. b'rdis e\eiUually made the <lisc()v-
cry thai 1)\' digging at le.isi iH inche»%
underground, at the mouths of small

caves, under large boulders, within 200
yards of the Three Window Temple, he
was almost sure to fmd one or two ar-
ticles of bronze, either pins, tweezers.
pendants, or other ornaments.

Selecting two of the most reliable
workmen and otTering them a sliding
scale of rewards for everything they
might find of value, he succeeded, in the
course of four moiuhs' faithful atten-
tion to the details of clearing and exca-
vating, in getting together about 200 little
bronzes, a lesser number of pots, and 5<i
cases of sherds. The nature of the more
interesting finds can be l>elter under-
stood by the accompanying pln)ti>grapli
( see page ^y^). Tbis materi.il is now all
in \e\\ llaven, where it is lt> In- itr.!i.'..l
by I )r. b*aton and Mr. ICrdis.

WII.\T CI.i:.\RIN(. Tin: JL'.Nf.I.K RKVKAI.KH

I'he change ma<le in the appearance
of .Machu ricchu by the four months of
clearing and excavating is graphically
bri.uglit out by comparing the pictures
on i»ages .j().|. 424, 4^^.*. and 4<;>> with
those on pages 433. 4^^. 4<^^. 4<>8. ami
5 1 J. the one set taken either lK*f«»re the
work began or early in its sta^"^ "'d tl <
latter taken at the end of the 1. li

440

Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE DEFENSES OF THE CITY : THE NORTHERN TERRACES,, MACHU PICCHU

On the north side of the city there was little danger of attack, but in order to strengthen
the nearh^ impassible cliffs and precipices, narrow terraces that could be used both for-
agricultural and defensive purposes were constructed (see page 453).

450

'I • i'^ Hi: .i:!i i.r

A ST.UkWAV u.\ Tlli: MAIN STKKliT l.\ MACIH riCClIU

\V itliiii thf city an extensive system of narrow streets and Rranite stairways made Intrr
ruinMiunir.ition rtlativtly easy. This stairway is on the main cross street which c ■
(• vicimlv ..f tlir S.ut-.«| P);i/;i .'md the chu'i ti-niplcs with the ea«it city (see \v\iics 4Sf»~.4>'i'

th

is most .siiKLrcl> I" 1k" Imped ili.ii tlu-
IVM-iivi;iu j.i:r>vc'ninu'iit will not .illnw tlie
ruins i(. I)c' ovcrj^M-own with a dcn^i* for-
est, as tlie\ lia\r hcHMi in tin- past.

Altlioni^di tlu- l)iiil(lin^'s are extrenudv
well hnilt. tliere is no cenicnt or mortar
in the masonry, and there is- no means
ot pre\enlinj.^' the rooN oi" fdicsi trees
from pcnetratinj.^ the walls and even-
iii.iIIn tcarin.i,^ them all down. In se\er;d

eases we foinid j,njjaiitic trees |H*r\*luMl
on the \ery tips of the ijalde <•

^mall an<l heaiitifiilly eon>triiete«l 1

It was not the least ditVuiilt part of nii-
work to out down and >jet sueh trees (»iit
of the way without seriously dainai^in^
the house walls (see pajje** 45.'. 45.^)

Considerinjj all the pains that wc to<»k
to preserve the ruins from further s|»<.
liation h\ t' ' • • i^elalior^ ••

451

Photo by Hiram Bingham

A TYPICAL DWELLING HOUSE OF THE BETTER CLASS: MACHU PICCHU

One of the most striking characteristics of Machu Picchu architecture is that a large
majority of the houses are of a story and half in height, with gable ends. These gables
are marked by cylindrical projecting stones, carrying out the idea of the wooden rafters,
which have disappeared. In the case of these two adjoining houses, the southern gables
alone are still standing, the northern gables having been knocked off either by earthquakes
or owing to the destructive forest vegetation. Had we not cleared the jungle and cut off
the forest trees, the right gable would soon have gone with the weight of the tree that was
perched on its peak, and whose roots can still be seen in the picture (see pages 455-456).

witli frank and painful surprise that we
read in the decree issued by the new
Peruvian government, in connection with
giving us permission to take out of Peru
what we had found, a clause stating that
we were not to injure the ruins in the
slightest particular, and that we must
neither deface nor mutilate them. I
could not help being reminded of the
fact that we had spent two days of one
workman's time in erasing from the
beautiful granite walls the crude char-
coal atitographs of visiting Peruvians,
one of whom had taken the pains to

scrawl in huge letters his name in thirty-
three places in the principal and most
attractive buildings.

We were greatly aided in the work of
clearing the ruins by having with us for
two months Lieutenant Sotomayor, of
the Peruvian army, whose presence was
due to the courtesy of President I^eguia.
Lieutenant Sotomayor took personal
charge of the gang of Indians engaged
in clearing the jungle and drying and
burning the rubbish. As long as he was
allowed to remain with us he did his
work most faithfully and efficientlv. It

452

was with regret that we found lie
was reheved from duty at Machu
Picchu in September.

AX IDKAL PLACK OF KICI-UGIC

Although it is too early to speak
definitely in regard to the civiliza-
tion of Alachu i^icchu, a short de-
scription of the principal character-
istics of the city ma\' ncjt be out
of place.

Alachu Picchu is essentially a city
of refuge. It is perched on a moun-
tain top in the most inaccessible
corner of the most inaccessible sec-
ti(jn of the L'rubamba River. So
far as I know, there is no j^art of
the Andes that has been better de-
fended by nature.

A stu])endous cafKjn, where the
])rincipal rock is granite and where
the precipices are frecjuently over
i,cxx) feet sheer, ])resents difficul-
ties of attack and facilities for de-
fense second to none. I fere on a
narrow ridge, flanked on all sides
by precipitous or nearly ])recipitous
slopes, a highly cixilized i)eople -
artistic, in\'enti\e, and ca])a1)le of
sustained endeaxor — at some time
in the remote ])ast built themselves
a city of refuge (pp. 43^), 4:^7).

Since they had no iron or steel
tools — only stone hammers — its
construction must have cost many
generations, if not centuries, of
effort.

Across the ridge, and defending
the builders from attack on the side
<^)f the main mountain range, they con-
structed two walk. < )ne of them, con-
stituting the (UUer line of defense, leads
from ])recii)ice to precipice, utilizing as
best it can the natural steejjuess of the
hill (see pages 4,^*^ and 4.V))-

I5eyond this, and <>n top of the niouii-
tain called Machu ricclui, which over-
looks the valley from the very summit of
one of the most stui)endous precipices in
the canon, is constrnctecl a signal station.
from which the approach of an enemy
could be instantly comnumicated t«) the
city below. Within the outer wall ihey
constructed an extensive series of agri-
cultural terraces, stone lined and aver-
aging about S feet high. I'etween these
and the city is a stee|). dry moat and the
iinur w.dl ( sec i)ages 441. 44 J. 444. 45<"

\
(.f t
.size

I'hoto by Iliratu Bingham

A DECOR.\Ti:n c.Ani.K: maciil* picchu

slightly (lifTcrcnt view of the pable end of one
he lutttr houses. lirinninK «nit the ItKation and
of the projootinji cylindrical l)l«»cks.

When the members of an attackinj*
force had safely negotiate*! the precipi-
tous and easily defen<led sides of the
moat, they would still fmd thenKelvci
(»ulsi(le the iinuT defenses of ihc city,
which consist e<l of a wall fnrni 15 to 20
feet high. C()mi)OSC(l of the largest >toncs

that could be found in the vi';i

many of them huge boulders wi _
many tons. This wall h carried straiRlU
across the ridge from one precipitous
side to the other. These defenH*'i arc oil
tin- s. .nth bide of ihc cilv (pp. 445-447)-

I Ml TOWN- W.NS INVn.NKR.MU.I.

( )n the north si<!e. on the narrow
ri«lge connecting the city with Iluayna
Picchu. strong «lcfensive terraces have
been strategically placed .-io as to render

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Tin: \s I.ST (.Aiii.K IN Tin: in:sT iiousK of thk kings CRorr

Sliowiii.; tlif s('r<.ii<I story wifulnw. a small vcntilatiiiK wiinlow aliovc il. the u»iul nro-
ji'ctin^; i> liixlcrs. .iiul llic l<»c.iti<.M ni four rini! ^I'Mus t«» wliiih '" ' i\tc

riiij^-stoius art' I(K'atc(l at rrKulj'f «listaiuH-s. The hnirs in the - l««»rctl

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i;reat dcnl of HMtittire (see p.Mne l?^>*.

455

rhoto by Hiram Bingham
ANOTHER MONOLITHIC STAIRWAY : MACHU PICCHU

In this case not only the steps of the stairway, but
also the balustrades, were cut out of a single stone.
Imagine the patience required to do this, when the only
tools at hand were hard cobble stones that had to be
brought up from the river 2,000 feet below.

nil the danger of an attack on this side.
Difficult to reach at best, the city's de-
fenses were still further strengthened by
the construction of high, steep walls
wherever the precipices did not seem
absolutely impassable (see page 450).

Inside the city the houses are crowded
close together, but an extensive system
of narrow streets and rock-hewn stair-
ways made intercommunication comfort-
able and easy.

On entering the city, perhaps the first
characteristic that strikes one is that a
large majority of the houses were a
story and a half in height, with gable
ends, and that these gable ends are

marked by cylindrical blocks pro-
jecting out from the house in
such a way as to suggest the
idea of the ends of the rafters.
The wooden rafters have all dis-
appeared, but the ring-stones to
which they were tied may still be
seen in some of the pictures,
notably that on page 455.

These ring-stones consist of a
slab of granite, about 2 feet long
and 6 inches wide by 2 inches
thick, with a hole bored in one
end, and were set into the slop-
ing gable wall in such a way as
to be flush with the surface' al-
though the hole was readily ac-
cessible for lashing the beams of
the house to the steep pitch of
the gables. There were usually
four of these ring-stones on each
slope of the wall. Dr. Eaton
found this to be also a feature
of the Choqquequirau architec-
ture, only in that city the num-
ber of ring-stones is larger per
gable.

A CITY OF STAIRWAYS

The next most conspicuous
feature of ]\Iachu Picchu is the
quantity of stairways, there be-
ing over 100, large and small,
within the city. Some of them
have more than 150 steps, while
others have but 3 or 4. In some
cases each step is a single block
of stone 3 or 4 feet wide. In
others the entire stairway — 6, 8,
or 10 steps, as the case might
be — was cut out of a single
granite boulder (see pp. 451, 454, 457-9).
Again, the stairway would seem almost
fantastic, being so narrow and wedged
in between two boulders so close together
that it Avould have been impossible for
a fat man to use the stairway at all. In
no case were the stairways intended for
ornament. In every case they are useful
in getting to a location otherwise diffictilt
of access (page 458).

The largest level space in the city was
carefully graded and terraced, so as to
be used for agriculttiral purposes, on the
products of which the inhabitants could
fall back for a time in case of a siege.
It seems probable that one reason why

456

loto by Hiram llinffham

Tin: STKKI'KMM AIKW.W JN MAiliU nCCIIT

This stairway is one of tliosr c(»iim'ctinK tlu- vari-
in a nusition wlurc it was not iut<lr<l t<» Ik- ummI for .
city, It was lift to f«»II«»w tin- rxtrcmcly steep natural «leclivity i»i the hiU.

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the city was deserted was a change in
cHmate, resulting in scarcity of water
supply. .Vt the present time there are
only three small springs on the moun-
tain-side, and in the dry seasc^n these
could barely furnish water enotigh for
cooking anfl drinking purposes for 40 or
50 people. There could never have been
very much water here, for the czcijiiias.
or water channels, are narrower than any
we have ever seen anywhere else, being
generally less than 4 inches in width.

THE FOUNTAINS ON Till-. ST.\1RWA\'

We were able to trace the principal
azeqiiia from the vicinity of the springs
along the mountain-side for a distance
of perhaps a mile, acn^ss the dry nioai
on a slender bridge, then tmder the city
wall, along one of the terraces, and tinallx
to the first of a series of fountains or
baths, located on the princi])al stair\\a\
of the city (see i)icture on this page).

This stairwax' is di\ ided to admit tlic
tntrance of one of the fountains, of
which there are 14 or 15 in the series.
ICach basin is about 2' j feet long by 1 ', ..
feet wide and from 5 l<» ^ inches in
depth. In some cases the basin and the
tloor of the bath-h<»use. or fouiUain, is
made (^f a single slab of granite. Cen-
erally holes were drilled in one of the
coiners of the basin to permit the walei*
to flow through carefully cut under-
ground channels to the next basin below.

The Peruvians call these f(>untains
*'l)aths." It d(jes not seem to me likely
that they were used for this purjjose,
but i-ather that. 1)\- a i-areful husbanding
in basins of this sort, the water-pots ^^\
tlie iidiabitants could the more readily
be tilled bv anv one coming to one of the
fountains.

Many of t''e houses an- built on in^
races on the .steep sloping hillsides. In
such case their doors face the hill and
the window-- lo< »k ont on the \iew. .\lo-t
of the houses are well provided with
niches, the average size being aboni J
feet in height b\ l':} feet in width. In
some interiors proi^cting cylindrical
blocks are foinid alternating between tiic
niches. In a few honses we found evi-
dence of stuccft. but in most caso*^ the
nind plastt-i- bad entirely disappeared
( see page 4(».^ ).

Possibly the nio^t inleresiing conclu-
sion brought out as a result (»f otir ex-
tensive clearinL; :i!i«l excavating is thai

IMiotit t>> llii.tiii

Till-: ST.MKW.W (»K TIIK FOUNTAI

M.vciir I'icciir

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Photo by Hiram Bingham

TYPICAL INTERIOR OF SMAI,!. CHAAiBER IN BETTER CLASS HOUSE I MACHU PICCHU

Most of the houses are well provided with niches, the average size being about 2 feet
in height and a foot and a quarter in width. These niches took the place of closets, ward-
robes, shelves, and tables. They were usually symmetrically arranged and offered a pleasing
break in the dull finish of the solid walls.

Photo by Hiram Bingham

ANOTHER TYPICAL INTERIOR! MACHU PICCHU

In many of the houses there are round or square stones projecting between the niches.
In some cases these were used to support an upper story, while in other cases they are either
for ornament or merely convenient hooks on which to hang ponchos, slings, ropes, etc.

462

STUCCO STiij. 1-N i'usiTJ(K\ : .\iA(.m i-raih

I'hotos by liiram UinRhai

Some of the hciises were lined with such l)eautiful stone wnrk as to recjuire no otiui
finish. In others it seems probable that the rouKhly finished stones were c<»vered with some
kind of mud or plaster. The picture shows the only house in Machu Picchu where consid
crable portions of this plaster still remain on the walls (see i)am- 471).

Iiii4in Uii<ch«ft

A.N UNUSU.M. C^KULT Ol- .NKIIK>

I'iccm

In this house, or temple, the niches are of uMUsual lt»rni. The picture %hi»\\i th'

one of which contains three little niches, and .1' • '* ■- •••<-•- .. i>,r.i.v .1 t.l 1,

closed l)v a bar fastened to the corner stones.

4(\\

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O

the city was at one time divided
into wards or clan groups (see page
468). Each one of these groups
has but one entrance, a gateway
furnished with the means of being
sohdly fastened on the inside. Xone
of the doors to houses or temples
have this locking device, but all the
entrances to the clan groups have it,
and the same device occurs in the
principal gate to the city.

INGENIOUS BOLTING OP^ THE GATES
TO THE CLAN GROUPS

The doors have disappeared, but
probably consisted of rough-hewn
logs of hard wood. They seem
to have been fastened by two bars
crossed at right angles. The up-
right bar was probably tied at the
top to a ring-stone set in the wall
and projecting from it above the
stone lintel of the doorway (see
page 465). It could have been fast-
ened at the bottom by being set into
a shallow hole in the ground. The
cross-bar was lashed to stone cyl-
inders about 6 inches high and 3
inches in diameter, set into lock-
holes in the door-posts (pp. 466-7).
This ingenious device varies in
different groups, but in general the
principle is the same. The more
common method of making these
locks was to cut a hole out of the
top or corner of one of the larger
blocks in the door-posts and set the
stone cylinder into saucer-shaped
depressions below and above. Thus
the cylinder would be so firmly
keyed into the w^all that it would
be able to resist at least as much
pressure as the hardwood cross-bar
which was lashed to it.
M Each one of the clan groups has

Z certain distinctive features. In one
^ of them, characterized by particu-
^ larly ingenious stone-cutting, the
^ lock-holes were cut in the center
^ of solid granite rectangular blocks
I (see pages 470, 471). The picture
'^ on page 471, taken after the top
^ block had been removed, shows the
-2 saucer-shaped depression cut into
*Qh the upper stone. It also explains
.^ how the ingenious architect had
^ carved the cylindrical block and the

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riiulo b> liiiain Itingltam

TIIK CITY C.ATK: MACIIU IMCCIIl^

riu (I.M.rs tn the Imusis lia<l apparently no means of l>cinK faMcnol. I»ul ihc mirancc*
t(» tlic cl.in Krniips ;m<l the main rity ^Mv, nvIi«»m- interior is lure shown. ha«l l«H'k liolc» con-
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Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE MOST INGENIOUS LOCK IN MACHU PICCHU

The gateway to Ingenuity Group had lock-holes differing from those of other groups
(see pp. 464, 466-467), in that they were cut out of single blocks of stone and had the stone
cylinder not set into, but forming part of the whole block (see also page 471).

Photo by Hiram Bingham

A TYPICAL HOUSE DOOR: MACHU PICCHU

The doors of the houses were carefully made and are all narrower at the top than at
the bottom. The lintels are usual!}- made of two blocks of stone. The Indian boy in the
picture is carrying the kodaks and a large map, in ten sheets, on which are shown all the
houses.

470

lock-hole all out of one piece,
thus making it much stronger
than the average.

Granite boulders in the floor
of the principal house in this
group had their tops carved into
kitchen utensils f(jr grinding corn
and frozen potatoes (see page
469)0 In this group also wt
found the only case of house-
lined with stucco or plaster made
of red clay (page 463), and here
is the only gabled l^uilding di-
vided into two parts by a party
wall rising to the peak anrl
pierced by three windows.

SOME KXOT'ISITK STOXICWORK

Another group was distin-
guished by having its own ])ri-
vate gardens on terraces so ar-
ranged that access to them could
be had only by passing through
the small collection of houses
constituting this particular clan
grou]). In another case, the en-
trance to a grjui]) notable for its
very elaborate and exquisitely
finished stonework, the upright
cylinder in the lock-hole is
brought tlush with the surface
of the stone and is a ])art of the
block itself (see l)ages 47S and

479)-

Another group is distinguished

by having monolithic lintels for

the doorways (.see i)age 477). In

this group al.so the gables are

unusually steep (see i)age 47S).

Nearly all the grou])s had what
seemed to be a religious center,
consisting of a mi>re or less
carved granite block in i)osition.
In several cases caves had been
excavated under these rocks, and in one
case the cave was beautifully lined with
finely cut stonework (4S3-4S5). In this
last cave a semicircular tower was con-
structed on the to]) of a boulder ( 4S5
and 4<y)) and connected with it by the
finest example of masonry in .Nlaclui
riccliu (4S5 and 4«A»).

This beautiful wall, shown on pages
4S7 and 4SX and also on page 4<K). was
made of specially selected blocks of beau-
tifnlly grained while granite, and was
constructed by a master artist. We grew
more f<»nd of this wall the k.ngcr we

I'hoto by Hiram Bingham

TllK MECHANISM OF THE LOCK

The left-hand lock-hole, shown in the v
oil the prccedinK paj^c. after lis stone cover: :^
raised, showing the saucer-shaped depression in the <
stone. enahlinK it to strengthen the stone cylinder of i..v
lock. It was nt>t only an in^jeni-'n^i. hut a patient and
devoted workman, who wouhl t.i
such a coiurivance for securiuL'
against intruders.

knew it. and every time wc s.iw it it i:;ne
us a thrill of joy.

The detailed study (p. 488) of >*i
the wall joins the next house wall si
how ingeniously the bK»cks were >
striicted, so as to form a brace wl
would prevent the house and wall f

leaning ajmrt and thus c* •

to appear in the wall. Tli- .

line, the syinineirical arrangement of the

blocks, and the gratlnal

tiers, with the l.irgcsl ai .... ......

the smallest at thv top. comhiiie to \
duce a wonder f nil v l)cau!iful effect.

471

Photo bj' Hiram Bingham

the; entrance to a clan group: machu picchu

The exterior of the gateway to Ingenuity Group,
showing the steps leading to it and the re-entrant angles
in the door-posts, characteristic of nearly all the gate-
ways to clan groups.

THE PROBABLE USE OE SNAKES EOR
AUGURY

As will be seen from the photograph
(see page 491), the wall is not perpen-
dicular, but inclines inward at the top.
This angle is characteristic of nearly all
the vertical lines in the ruins. Doors,
windows, and niches are all narrower at
the top than at the bottom.

In the semicircular tower which con-
nects with this fine wall the ingenious
cutting of stones in such a way as to fol-
low a selected curve reaches a perfection
equaled only in the celebrated wall of
the Temple of the Sun (now the Do-

One of the windows in this
tower (see pages 492-494) has
several small holes near the bot-
tom. These were found to con-
nect, by very narrow channels,
barely large enough for a snake
to crawl through, with circular
holes within the wall, where the
snakes might have constructed
their nests.

There are still many snakes at
^lachu Picchu. There are also
snakes carved on several rocks,
(page 497). Lizards are not
common, and the holes within the
wall are much too large for liz-
ards' nests : but they are of the
right size for a comfortable
snake's nest — for a small snake.
It seems to me possible that in
this wall the priest of this clan
group kept a few tame snakes
and that he used their chance
e^.'s out of one hole or another
;.b cL means of telling omens and
possibly of prophesying.

The so-called sacred plaza is
the site of two of the finest
structures at Machu Picchu. One
of these — the Temple of the
Three Windows — has already
been referred to ; the other is a
remarkable structure, about 12
feet in height, built around three
sides of a rectangle some 30 feet
long and 18 feet wide. A de-
scription is hardly necessary, as
a better idea can be gained from
the pictures (pp. 409, 501, 502,
503, and 512) than from any
words of mine. Suffice it to say that it is
marked by a very pleasing symmetry, by
the use of tremendous blocks of granite,
three of them being over 12 feet in
length, and by the projection in an ob-
tuse angle of the ends of the sides.

"the place to which the SUN IS tied''

On top of the beautifully terraced hill
(pp. 498, 507, 508), behind this temple,
is a stone, generally agreed to be an iiiti-
Jiuatana stone, or sun-dial — the intihua-
tana being the "place to which the sun is
tied." Similar stones were found by the
Spanish conquerors in Cuzco, Pisac, and
OUantavtambo. An idea of this stone

minican Monastery), in Cuzco. Like that, mav be gained from the picture on page
it is a flattened curve, not roimd (p. 485). 509.

472

A KKST DLRIXG TRKUM 1 XAUV CLKAKING! MACIIl' PICCHU

A corner n\ Ingenuity Group, showing the entrance on the left to a subsidiary group and on
the riglit to the house that has the stone mortars in its floor (sec page 469)

Owin^ to the location of ^faclui Tic-
chu in tliis extremely inaccessible i)art of
the Andes, to its clearly liavinj^ been a
city of refuj^e. easily defended and suited
for defensive i)nrj)()ses: owing to the
presence of a large ninnber of windows
in the ruins, and particularly to the ])res-
ence of three large windows in one of
the ])rincipal temples, I believe it to have
been the original Tam])U Tocco, from
which the Incas came when they started
on that migration which led ihem to con-
quer Cuzco and to establish the Inca
l\m])ire.

The difficulties of life for .sc\cial cen-
turies in the X'ilcabamba region wouhl
have been likely to have (leveloi)ed this
ingenious and extremely ca|)able race and
given them strength of character. The
intluence of ge<>graphical environment is
no small factor in develoi)ing racial char-
acteristics. 1 hope at no (listant future
to i)re])are an exhaustive report of tliis
wonderful city, whose charm can only
dimlv be realized from these pictures.

The beautiful blue of the tropical sky.
the varying shades of green that clothe
the niagniticent m<»untains. and the nivs-
tcrious charm ..f the roaring rai)i<Is thou-

sands of feel below cannot be |x>rtrayed
and can with difficulty be imagined.

TIIK PA NORA MIC VIEW

The beautiful panoramic view of Ma-
chu IMcchu, which accompanies this arti-
cle as a Supplement, gives a giKxl idea of
the grand Canon of the I'nibamba a-*
seen from Machu IMcchu. of the sacred
IMaza. and Intihuatana Hill, and of the
i'.ast City.

I'nforttmately. a u.i>» hhj •'■'r- to
take a picture that wouhl al^ udo

the other half of Machu Picchu. incliKl-
ing the remarkable I'piHjr City, with il-^
rows <»f houses, each one on a scpara**
terrace, the beautiful buildings of i.
Trincess Group, and the splcn<lid stone-
work of the Kings Gmup. All of th'
are behind and to the right of on ■ '
ing at thi>< pani»rama. And still i
behind are the agricultural terraces, our
camp, and Machu Picchu M.>untanr. but
these are all shown in ^' 'e views

The Incas were. und. l«»vcrs o\

beautiful scenery. Many of the rums of
their most iniiM»rtant places arc
on hill tops, ridges, an.l '"• *"

473

474

A DISTANT VIKW OK OUR KIKST CAMl ; IT

A view lonkiiiK' ..ver the tops of two of the houses of Tntrrntn'tv CfMi.t. !..,
and sorm- «,f the ak'ricnhiiral trrraces. The hcams on top «■
there recently by one of our Indians, who thought thin miRhi .....k.
but he found it too larRc for comfort. The huts of the m.Mlcrn
than these houses and have no windows
has «:rown colder as well as drver.

It is iH>s5ihlc that lhi» may indic^ttc tliat tlie clmwilc

Photo by Hiram Bingham
HAVI^X DIFFICULTIES WITH A TRIPOD: MACHU PICCHU

A distant view of Ingenuity Group, with Private Garden Group above it, as seen from
the vicinit}' of the semicircular tower. In taking these pictures, it was frequently neces-
sar\- to put the tripod on the shaky peak of a ruined gable, a process not always easy.

Photo by Hiram Bingham

TYPICAL masonry: MACHU PICCHU

The outside wall of another group which was distinguished by having its own private
gardens on terraces so arranged that access to them could be had only by passing through
the houses of the group. These houses are built on a terrace whose retaining wall consists
of large blocks of solid masonry. The smaller wall on top of this is merely a screen for
defensive purposes. Notice the end of the stone conduit in the lower left-hand corner, en-
abling the courtyard of this group to be properly drained.

476

ders, from which particularly beautiful
views can be obtained.

Remarkable as is the architecture of
]\Iachu Picchu, and impressive as is the
extent of the stone-cutting done by a
people who had no steel or iron tools,
neither of these things leaves more im-
pression on the mind of the visitor than
the inexpressible oeauty and grandeur of
the surroundings.

A reconnaissance of the forestration
of the immediate vicinity and a large
scale map of Machu Picchu and its vi-
cinity were made by Assistant Top(jg-
rapher Stephenson. From the map we
hope some day to be able to construct a
model which will give those not fortunate
enough to visit this marvelous place some
idea of its character and beauty.

FORESTRATIOX OF THE RKGIO.V

In regard to the forestration of the
region, Mr. Stephenson reports that tree-
growth begins about midway between the
scnirce and the mouth of the Urubamba
River. Forests frequently interrupted by
open areas occupy the lower half of the
valley. The open bottoms are moist, un-
timbered, and used for agriculture. In
these the soil is a decj) sandy loam, rich
in humus and having abundant moisture.

Tlie valley is very narrow, witli many
tributaries, and rough ])reci])it()us sides
frecjuently broken by cliffs. The lower
slopes have fairly rich soil and abundant
moisture. They extenrl for several hun-
<lred feet above the river, .\bove them
the soil is regularly dry and poor. .\1-
though rainfall is abundant, the sunny
north slopes have a dry rocky soil.

The forest in the Machu Picchu re-
l(ion is made up of subtropical hard-
woods, with probably more than 30 s])e-
cies in the stand. Crood growth is con-
fined to the valley bottoms and the lower
slopes. ( )n tlie shaded slopes the forest
sometimes extends to a p(»int 2,(XK) feet
above the ri\<.r. and in narrow, protected
valleys even higher ; but on the upper
sloj)es the trees are of poor form, gnarled
and stuiUed.

( )n the ridges some trees occur, but
they are verv scrubby and do not form a
canopy. Timber-line here is at elevation
of about io.o(K) feet above sea-levd. The
elevation of tlie river near Machu Picchu
is about ^).;oo feet above sea-level.

Photo by lliram Uingbam

Tin: FINEST IKK)RW.\V .\T .MACHL* PICCHU

One of the monolithic lintels in the group
(listiii^s'uislu-d also hy having; »r " ' •

^'ablcs. In the other groups tlu
invariably had duoUthic lintels, but the chici
of this clan determined to overcome the me-
chanical dirticulties involved in placinR a solid
block weij^binjs' three tons on top of h;^
post and tittinn it accurately to them,
had neither cranes nor pulleys, but only lever*
and inclined planes, it muit have required a
prndij^ious anutunt of patient efTi»rt Thi*
K'roup we name<l the Kins's Ooup on
«»f the extraordina'- • '• i." -■•' •»- -t. .

( )wing to the large nuinlwr of s|)ccics,
the (iiiality of the tiinl)cr vari« tly.

Manv of these species pPHhicc i... .. ait-
able wood of fuie texture that takes ^jixxl
p< dish. ( )ther (|uick-|;n>winKj s|>ccics pro-
duce w(KxIs of infcru>r quality— soft.
brittle, (jtiickly <!ccayin>r. and of little
\alue for anything but n.ULdi hiinl>cr.

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Photo by Hiram Bingham

IN the: king's group: machu picchu
A portion of the interior of this group, showing the great care exercised in the stone-fitting

NOTES ON THK TIMBER

All species are infected with parasites
and all ages of trees seem to be subject
to them. The worst daniage is done to
the fast-growing young trees.

In the bottoms the trees are tall, clean,
and straight, rinming up to over lOO feet
in height and 3 feet in diameter. The
average is about 18 inches in diameter
and 80 feet in height. On the lower
slopes the growth is more uniform, with
a slightly lower average size. There are
a few healthy patches of timber, but they
are only of occasional occurrence and
limited to a few areas.

The timber in the valley bottoms aver-
ages 5,000 board-feet per acre, with a
maximum of 10,000 over limited areas.
On the slopes the average is 3,000 board-
feet, with little variation. These are con-
servative ocular estimates.

The rugfofed character of the countrv

'fefe

makes logging of any but timber in bot-
toms impracticable. Trails are few and
very bad ; labor is scarce and uncertain.
Should a railroad enter the valley as
planned it will be possible to carry on
profitable logging operations with port-
able mills. There is a good supply of
timber, for ties.

The next thing to be done would be
to make a collection of samples, so that
the qualities of the various hardwoods
might be tested. Such tests would bring
out definite facts about their value. Some
of them are undoubtedly woods of high
technical qualities as well as of beautiful
grade and color.

Mr. Stevenson's map of Machu Picchu,
the result of a three months' survey, is
on a scale of i inch == 20 feet, with a
contour interval of 10 feet, and consists

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11 Irani llingaaiii

A SACKKU KUCK: MACHU I'lCCll

Xc-.irly .'ill the cl.in jj^roiips had wliat seems to have been a reliKious center, consisting
liranite lumlder or ledge carved into seats and |.l -t t*. .r.iw

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A NOT I IKK SACRKl) R»H.'K : MACIU* IMCCIIU

One <.J these sacred rocks is only 2 foot in thicknc5». althoUKli 15 ^«*« *^»Kh »»»'* J" '«<*

in lenRth (sec |>agc 471)

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Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE TXTERIOK ()V A C.WK T'XDKR A SACRED STONE: MACIIU PICCHU

Under the sacred stones frcf|iieiitly caves were constriicte<l and in some cases lined with
heanti fully cut stones. This is a Hasjilipht of such a cave undermath the semicircular tower
(sec page 471, and pictures, paires 484. 485. and 4Q6).

of 16 lari^c sheets. Il should prove vei>
ii.se fill in hel])inj^'' us to i^-aiii a correct
idea of this wonderful city, whicli seems
to have esca])ed the notice of the S])anish
con(|Uerors and to ha\e remained ])rac-
tically unknown until it was fir^t vi>ite(l
hy the present writer in July, 10 1 1.

OTlIiJ^ IMI'Oin'AXT I.NCA Ur INS

Jt is still too early to make detinite
statements in rej^ard to the importance of
this discovery: in fact, such opiuions can
only he passed 1)\ archiecdoj^ncal experts
after the full rejjort of the work at
.Machii IMcchii has heen ])repared and
puhlished. This much, however, can he
said in rej.(ard to the superiority in ex-
hnl and interest of .M.ichu ricchu oxer
previously discovered Inca ruins:

'{'he most im])ortant Inca ruins iierc-
tofore discovered are in the city of Cuzco,
the (own and fortress of ( )llantaylamho,
Pisac. and on the isl.'in«l> <»f Lake 'Pi-
ticaca. 'IMure are. hoides these, on the
coast a numher of jocalitie*^ like Pacha-
cam ''.c, .\azca, .\ncon. 'Prujillo. and the
coin.trv of the Cirand Chimu. where the
chief ii)(<ri'st lies in the extensive tin<l-

ings of mummies, pottery, textiles, and
metal ornaments, including gold, silver.
hronze. etc. All of these places, how-
ever, were known to the S- ' ''

(juerors. and have heen r..:

treasure hunters from the earliest times.

Cuzco, the most important place of all.
was adopted hv the Sj)aniar(ls as their
most imi)ortant city outside of Linia
They entirely remade the city, using large
jjuantities of the ancient Inca w
huild their own palaces and cluiiv.-
Although the city still has many Inca re-
mains and retains a great chann for the
tourist and the archir(»lo • • - \i
is more of a Spaii'-'' • »"

of an Inca city.

Tin ,1111. ;- partly true
tamh-' The ruins of I'
others in the vicinity. «»!
necessary to give an .iccount hen*
repeatedly Ik'cu ran- by tt

lumters The long at ^

ijlentifKMl in 101 1 as ti Incn «

has Iwen ah inplet- hv

these tre.iMti « i 'I the

fill il.Hir of cut K' ' ''' ''"

remain intact.

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Photo by Hiram Bingliani

IN THE PRINCESS group; MACHU PICCHU

A general view of the Princess Group, showing the relation of the semicircular tower
(on the right) to the other houses of the group. In the center of the picture is the only
house in Machu Picchu consisting of two stories and a half. The stairway shown in the
picture connects the first and second stories of this house.

.\H6

Photo by lliram llingham
AN EXAMPLE OF EXTRAORDINARY STONE-CUTTING: MACIIU IMCCIU'

Connected with the semicircular tower is an ornamental wall made of speciallx selecicil
blocks of beautifully grained white j^ranite. The interior of the wall was urnamcntcd by a
series of symmetrical niches, between each one of which is a projecting stone rouRhly
squared rscc paj^c 471).

UKMARK.MII.K NK'in.S AT M \CIIU IMCCIH

Another porti«»n of the interior of the ornamental wall. Hear in mind that the ancient
huildrrs had n(. T s(|uares nor rik'lii lines, and could approach MraiKht hne*

>l<ill i>f .1 !r:iin(«| f'\ t' (sir ilsii ti.iL-c J.'^^ > .

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Photo by Hiram Bingliam

A SIGHTLY tower: MACIIU PICCIIU

The corner of the Princess Group where the ornamental wall joins the semicircular tower
is one of the most sigiitly spots in the city and c<jmman(ls a magniticent view of the great
canon. Within the tower was a sacred rock, which has heen partly destroyed by fire.

WHY MACllU I'ICCIIU IS AX ARC II KoLoi.l -
CAL TREASUKK

On the other hand, Machti Picchu not
only is larger and contains more edifices
than any other ruin discovered in Pertt
('excei)t Cuzco) ; it has the additional ad-
vantage of not having heen known to tlie
Sl)aniards, of not having heen occupied
hy their descendants, and of not having
heen torn to pieces hy treasure liunters
seeking within the walls for the gold an<l
silver ornaments that were not to hi*
found in the lloors.

In other words, ^^ac]ul Picchu is not
only more extensive than any ])reviously
discovered Tnca city outside of Cuzco.
hut' it is in a remarkahly good state of
])reservation. and its architecture has not
hecome confused with Spanish efforts t.»
huihl clnu-ches and villas.

If the theory here propotmded is cor-
rect—that Ma'chu i*icchu was the orig-
inal "'P;inii)U 'i'ori'M." fr(.ni whose "tliree
windows" set (»ut the Irihes that eventti-
ally founded Cu/«<» the importance of
Machu Picehu as tlu' cradle «»f the later
liua racf will, of course, he inrreasod.

It is not verv profitahle to s])eculate on
the h:ihit^ of ihcsr ancient i»c«)ple until

wc have had more opiu)rtunity to study
the finds made in the Imrial caves and to
comi)are tliese with finds made in other
l)arts of Peru. We know that they were
masters of the art of stone-culting.

We know that they knew how to make
hronze. and that they had a consider.' '
artistic sense, as evidenced hy llieir woi;.
manship. One of the hronze pins found
at Machu I'irrhu has for a bead a minia-
ture reppnluction of the hoa«l of a ht:ni
ming-hird. including a long, curved \<
( )ne hronze knife is decoratctl with the
head of a llama: another with an Ind
hoy. King on his stomach, with his lu<.^
in the air. plaving lug-of-war witit a
large fish on the end of a lilllc bronze

roi)e. ,

The workmen oi M.».hu Picchii "oi
nnlv had "^kin. hut <.riginality an<l n
miitv. Their p<»ttcry is varied in fjmn
and attractive in its ontamentation. T
understood how to plan great arch
tural and engineering works and to carry
them to a satisfactory conclusion.

The soil of the terrace^ is extrctr- •
frttilc. an<l the Incas utilized c-
s,,uare van! of available land withm a
radius of several miles. I be two or

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three Indian families who have been
Hving at Alachu Picchu for the past
four or five years have had no diffi-
culty in raising good crops of sweet
potatoes, corn, peppers, onions, to-
matoes, and certain native vegeta-
bles unknown in this country. The
only difficulty they have found is
in keeping down the superabundant
tropical vegetation, which con-
stantly threatens to suffocate their
crops.

As an instance of how rapidly
this vegetation grows, terraces cov-
ered by bamboo cane which we
cleared in September had to be re-
cleared in November, when most of
these pictures were taken. In the
intervening two months some of the
cane had attained a height of five
feet.

It is my hope to prepare a special
monograph on Machu Picchu for
publication by the National Geo-
graphic Society.

II

DISCOVERY OF THE CUZCO BOXES"
IN 191 1

Another discovery made in 191 1
was of the so-called Cuzco bones.
The age of certain human and other
bones found interstratified with
glacial gravel near Cuzco was pro-
visionally estimated by Prof. Isaiah
Bowman, the geologist of the 191 1
expedition, as from 20,000 to 40,000
years. These bones were brought
to New Haven and submitted for
examination to Dr. George F.
Eaton, osteologist of the Peabody
Museum.

In describing them in an article
in the American Journal of Science
for April, 19 12, he says in his con-
clusion : ''It is clear that no proof
of great antiquity can be drawn
from the characters of the human
skeletal parts submitted to me,
ag'reeing', as thev do, in all essential
respects with the bones of a recent
people. Until additional skeletal
material is obtained, showing char-
acters more primitive than those al-
ready noted, the burden of proof of
great antiquity must rest on geolog-
ical and paleontological evidence."

490

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THE PKIXCESS GKUUP; MACllU I'lCCliU

A general view of the ornamental wall and the semicircular towt-r. together with
second story of the adjoining house, looking toward the principal agricultural terraces
our camp m the distance Tsce page 471).

the
and

Such j^eoloj[^ical evidence as we had
been able to collect in the limited time at
our disposal was ])resented by rr()fe>s(>r
Bowman in a j)ai)er published at the
same time. Trofessor iiowman bad re-
ported several years Ix^fore tindinj^ evi-
dences of man's existence in the central
Ancles in late Cdacial or early post-(ila-
cial times. !fe was led to believe that
the actual remains of man found in the
Cuzco basin were embedded in j^ravels
of a still earlier date.

DKTKKMININO TlIK \C.\-, oi' THF^SK HONKS

In bis intirpretalion of the geolojjical
and pjeoj^rapbical evidence be reached the
conclusion that the bi(N belonged to a

Glacial series, and that the age of the
vertebrate remains mitjbt be provisionally
estimated at fmm 20 to 40 thousand
years.

lint be called attention to the weakness
of the case, lyini^ in the f«»Ilnwinij facts:
( I) that certain of the lK)ncs could not
be sharplv ditTerentialed from those of
modern cattle, and (2) that it was within
the limits of i^os^ibility that the blutT in
which the bones were found mij^ht W
faced by younjjer pravel. and that there-
fore the !)ones had l)een in gravel veneer
deposited durini: later |K*riotls of partial
\ a I K\ -tilling.

I ie exiHTienced grave <lonl)ts as to hi"*
own conclusions. I)ecause wc were

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492

A NOT I IKK VIKW ()!• TIIK >> > .m UINi>v>W

49J

Photo bv Ilirani JJinsrham

THE SNAKE WINDOW FROM WITHIN

There were several means of exit from each snake nest, and it is possihle that the priest
of this temple attempted to fortell the future b}' noticing from which holes the snakes
chanced to come out (see pages 472 and 493).

494

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TIIK INTKUIOK ol- Tin: bU.MICIKCLl.AK TuWlCR M.mv ..... .^ ^ — ■

Tlif cracks in tin- walK '«•••• prnhalily cansr*' '•> ■ ■•••,• .t . ..mH mt .f.*..n .rtitunr* auo

405

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able to spend a very few days in
Cuzco after the find was made, and
concluded his report with these
words :

"Further excavation is needed, for
the same body of gravels may yield
material that will put the conclusions
upon a more solid foundation. If
later studies should yield evidence in
favor of the conclusion that the ma-
terial belongs to the Spanish period,
we shall have still the fact of inter-
stratification as a starting point, and
the conclusions based upon that fact
will have almost equal interest with
the conclusions here stated, as to the
Glacial age of the material. Changes
of such magnitude indicate a swing
of the climatic pendulum but little
short of remarkable."

Since further examination of the
Cuzco gravel beds and a comprehen-
sive study of their age seemed essen-
tial, this was one of the chief objects
of the 19 1 2 expedition, and it was
with this particular end in view that
Professor Gregory and Dr. Eaton
were asked to go to Cuzco.

IDENTIFYING THE "bISONIC" BONE

Among the bones Dr. Eaton had
noted three fragments of bones be-
longing either to cattle or bison,
whose specific identification was be-
set with almost insuperable dif^cul-
ties. After examining skeletal bison
remains in various museums and
comparing them with these frag-
ments and with similar bones of a
number of North American domes-
tic cattle, he found that one of the
bones, a fragmentary bovine rib, was
of a form which appeared to be
characteristic of the bisons and dif-
ferent from the forms seen in North
American domestic cattle.

Dr. Eaton had said in his pub-
lished report : "It cannot be denied
that the material examined suggests
the possibility that some species of
bison is here represented, yet it
would hardly be in accordance with
conservative methods to difTerentiate
bison from domestic cattle solely by
characters obtained from a study of

496

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Phutu by llirani Id:

>.\.\Ki-; rock: machl i'icchl

On top f>f (Mie of the boulders near the Sacred Plaza there are several snakes carved
into the surface of the rock. The carving of snakes on mcks seems to have been common
among prehisturic pioples all o\cr the world (see paije 47-').

IliiiffhAm

r.N u«K K : M ACiir tkl in

( )ii aiiMther curiously broken stone is carve«! a sun. Hcveral !imau sn.iKr^ .n"i •» •««

imdecipherable li^iurcs

497

t

498

A IMlTrUK OK THK SAMK PART OI* TIM*. CITY OI" MAc'lll I'Ul III \> ^
IKKCKDIXC. IM.rSTKATloN. IHT PIIoTcH'.KAni KD TIIK YKAK I

TIk* roniparisnn nf these two pictures shows in a vrrv strikine mnnnrr thr tmmrr^i
amount nf lahor and entTKy expended hy menil»ers of ihr

ruins, so that tlie nu-nihcTs of the National Cfeonrapl" ' •; i-u-'i

ceptiim of tlu" city (see aKn pane 44<)).

Photo by Hiram Bingham

A CORNER OF THi: THREK-WINDOWKD
TEMPLE

In the walls of the temples on the Sacred
Plaza are several extraordinarily large granite
blocks. In the hole in the upper left-hand
corner of the picture rested one end of the
beam which supported the roof on the west
side of the Temple of the Three Windows.
The women are wives of our workmen. The
one on the right was wearing a green skirt
with a red waist and blue stripes ; the one on
the left had on a blue skirt and a red blouse
with black dots.

the first ribs of a small number o± in-
dividuals."

Consequently his first interest on reach-
ing Cuzco was to secure specimen ribs
of Cuzco domestic cattle. The very first
one that we were able to procure from a
local butcher shop told a new story.

Dr. Eaton reports as follows : "The
plans for osteological work included the
dissection of the carcasses of beef ani-

mals reared in the high altitudes of the
province of Cuzco. This study revealed
the fact that, under the life conditions
prevailing in this part of the Andes, and
possibly due to the increased action of
the respiratory muscles in the rarefied
air, domestic cattle can develop first ribs
of 'bisonic' form.

There is, therefore, no reason for sup-
posing that the bovine rib found with the
human bones in the Ayahuaycco Que-
brada in 191 1 belongs to some species of
bison, and any theory attributing great
antiquity to the 'Cuzco man' based on
such a supposition is untenable.

VALUABLE SPECIMENS EXCAVATED IN
cuzco VALLEY

"Systematic search in the Cuzco \'al-
ley for ethnological and paleontological
material was carried on. Laborers were
employed and excavations made in the
terraces beneath the walls of the Sacsa-
huaman fortress ; in the gardens of the
Inca palace near the fortress and among
the ruins of the near-by hill called Pic-
chu. Several ancient graves on the hills
overlooking the village of San Sebastian
were explored. Much valuable material
was collected, including human skeletons,
belonging presumably to both the his-
toric and prehistoric periods, together
with the bones of contemporaneous lower
animals, implements and ornaments of
stone, bone, metal and shell, and pottery.
The so-called "ash deposits" of the city
were examined, and specimens were ob-
tained that will probably show that these
deposits do not go back of the Hispanic
period.

"Two days were spent making a re-
connaissance of fossil beds near Ayus-
bamba [near Paruro], about 30 miles
southwest from Cuzco, and the results
of this brief visit gave such promise that
later in the season another trip was made
to this interesting locality in company
with the geologist and two topographers.
Although the locality had already been
visited several times by amateur collect-
ing parties, it was still possible to obtain
a considerable amount of vertebrate ma-
terial that will probably yield very satis-
factory results."

GEOLOGICAL INVESTIGATIONS

The geological examination of the
Cuzco Valley undertaken by Professor

500

i'uulo b> liiraiii i^.i.j,--..
THE ALT.VK OF THE CIIIEI- TEMTLE OF MACIIU TICCIIU

The interior of the Chief Temple on the Sacred Plaza, showinp the cracking caused hy
the settling of the east wall. Notice the care with which the size of the stones is made to
decrease gradually in each ascending tier. The main altar stone is 14 feet in length and a

little over 5 feet in height.

Greg'ory consisted, in the first ])lace. of a
study of the gravel dei)osits near Cuzco
and the relatif)n in ai^c and ]X)sition of
these j^ravels to the remains of men and
other animals discovered in them, both on
the present and on the former exi)editi()n.
In a preliminary summary of his investi-
gations Professor Greii;"ory says: "The
gravels were found to be i^ortions of an
extensive alluvial fan of (ilacial age, but
tlie human relics embeddc 1 in them are
probably of much later date." These de-
posits will be described fully in a jxiper
on the Cuzco j^^ravels to be ])ublished in
the near future.

In rej^ard to the otiier ])arts of his
work, I'rofcs^or Hrci^^irx- reports as fol-
lows :

It consisted of "an examination of the
structiu-e. stratigraphy, and physioj^raphy
of the Cu/.co X'alley with a view to se-
curing the data for a geologic map of the
area tributary to the llualanay Rivrr
The region was found to consist chielly
of sedimentary rocks of pre-Tertiary.
Tertiary, and Pleistocene age. Basic
ignecnis intrusions are present and five
intrusive masses of ande^ite ( '^) are rep-

resented by outcro])s. Dining i.ii.ujal
times a lake occiii)ied the upper part of
the valley. Fossils from Mesozoic and
recent strata are sufficient to deterniinc
the relations of at least part of the for-
mations. The results of the geologic sur-
vey, including stratigraphic and iK^iro-
graphic mai)S. are to be emlxxlied in a
report dealing with the area as a whole.'*

Professor Gregory also made a survey
of Ayusbamba. on the Apurimac River.
the locality from which fo^^sil vertebrates
were collected by Dr. Maton. The strata
at Ayus!)amba arc clays and sands de-
posited in an ancient lake |>crchcd high
above the valley f1<M>rs at an allitudf »•<'
over I I .(HXi feet.

The Island of the Sun. in Uike Ti-
ticaca. Bolivia, was studied by l)oth Pro-
fessor Gregory and .\ssistant Toinigra-
pluT Ileahl. with reference to its owl
dei)<)sits. .\ collection of carlwniferous
fossils was secured.

Tin: TROLIU.KS OF A C.NRTOr.RAPIIF.R

( )wing to a most unfortunate ml'^UT^d. •
standing, occasioned by the <lifficull> «»i
getting messatres transmitted in an un-

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TYPICAL INDIAN WOMEN AT MACIiU rKCllU

i'u^:,^ by liiiMU* i^iii^i

i(ii4iti

c- lar^^est stone in the east wall of the Chief Temple on the Sacre.l Pi...., and thr - •-

of two workmen

I' ?.» I

Tin: HKAVIKST STONE ULOCK IN A MACHU PICCIIU WALL

,M . T^],V '"'irinr face of the same stone and the ornamental niche* in the ea«t wiill nf the
tlm-t .mple The hole in the upper riwlif * >cr wa* undoubletllv f ' n

ot the heam which supported the r(»>f of t!

50J

Photo by Hiram Bingham

AN INTKRESTING CORNE:r : MACHU PICCHU

Back of the Chief Temple and adjoining it are
the ruins of a small house probably occupied by the
High Priest. The picture shows a portion of the
exterior of its western wall. Part of this wall is
made of a single stone, which is cut into 32 angles
and corners.

The photographer thought that
the map looked rather badly with
all these pencil-marks on it, and a
telegram was sent to the director,
requesting permission to erase all
pencil-marks. This telegram w^as
received six zveeks later, on my re-
turn from a difficult journey into
the interior.

It was then too late to save Mr.
Bumstead's work, for the photog-
rapher, impatient at the delay, and
not receiving permission to clean
the map, had gone ahead on his
own responsibility and erased what
a month of careful field-work could
not replace. As Mr. Bumstead says
in his report :

''. . . Only one who has seen
his patient and painstaking work
destroyed can imagine mv feelines
when I returned to Cuzco witmn
about a week of the tmie when the
new Peruvian government said we
must stop all our work — weary and
almost discouraged from a trip that
had ended in profitless waiting in a
leaky tent for a cold rain to stop
and permit the work to proceed
through a region where the rainy
season had set in in good earnest —
only to find that all the above men-
toined penciling on the Cuzco Val-
ley map. had been completely and
absolutely lost."

inhabited region, quite a little of Mr.
Bumstead's work was unintentionally de-
stroyed. It was necessary for him to
leave the Cuzco Basin and work on the
Andine cross-section before the Cuzco
map was completed. This was occasioned
by the rapid approach of the rainy sea-
son. Arrangements were made with the
chief engineer of the Southern railways
to have the map photographed. The

HAMPERED FOR LACK 01^ TIME

The new Peruvian government
had stipulated in their decree that
all the work of excavating and ex-
ploring must cease on the first of
December, and the local authorities were
directed to see to it that this order was
carried out. In the limited time that re-
mained it was impossible to finish the
map of the Cuzco Valley as carefully as
it had been begun.

It was decided, however, that it would
be much better to map the area needed
by the geologist as well as it could be

permanent contour lines were inked in, done before the day set by the govern-
but all streams, roads, ruins, terraces, ment for the conclusion of our work,
plane-table locations, and many geograph- Accordingly, great pams have been taken
ical names and all elevations were left on to show the true character of the topog-
the sheet in pencil. raphy.

504

THK IIIC.II I'KIKSTS HOUSK: MACUL riLLllL

i'Qoto by litram Uingiutn

This picture of the interior of the priest's house pives a better idea -i liic stone of the
32 an^Hes. ^ot only were portions of two niches cut out of this stone, hut in a spirit of
freakish ingenuity the builders carried a small portion of the stone around the corner .o
that a part ol the corner itself is in this extraordinary block.

t'iiotw tij iiirvoi iianciMm

rm: men pkikst > i.un.ii

Another view of the interior of the priest's house, shnwiiit: t
which was pr(d)ably used as a couch. Notice the care with whti
cut. and syniinetrically arranged.

h ll.

505

ing their names every few miles,
and this particular river is no ex-
ception. It is called at various
times the A'ilcanota, the Vilcamayu,
the Rio Grande, the Urubamba, the
Santa Ana, and finally unites with
other rivers to form the Ucayali,
one of the great branches of the
Amazon.

Mr. Bumstead's map of Cuzco
Valley shows the elevations and
relative positions of Cuzco, the
great cyclopean fortress of Sacsa-
huaman, and the four historic
roads leading out of the ancient
Inca capital. It also aims to bring
out clearly the chief topographic
and physiographic features that are
characteristic of the locality. It
will be used by Professor Gregory
and Dr. Eaton as a basis for their
reports on the geology and oste-
ology of this region. If extensive
scientific archeological work is ever
permitted in this region, this map
will be of great service in deter-
mining the geographic influences in
the location of the ruins.

Ill

MAP-WORK OF THE EXPEDITION

The map-work was under the di-
rection of Mr. Albert H. Bumstead,
for nine years a topographic engi-
neer in the United States Geolog-
ical Survey. Mr. Bumstead's work
was seriously handicapped by the
fact that the seasons seem to be
changing in Peru, and an unex-
pectedly large amount of rain was
encountered in what is technically
The scale of the Cuzco A^alley map is known as the ''dry season." Further-
I inch to the mile, and the contour in- more, the difficulties of making maps in
terval is loo feet. The map covers in a lofty plateau, where, for example, the
all 174 square miles. It includes nearly bottom of the Cuzco A'alley is more than
all the territory that drains into the valley twice as high as the top of Mount Wash-
of the River Huatanay, which rises in the ington, can hardly be appreciated except

Photo by Hiram Bingham

AX EXAMPLE OF^ REMARKABLY SYMMETRICAL

MASOXRY

Another view of the interior of the priest's house
and the sacred rock back of it. Note the steps cut
in the rock to enable the priest to get on top of it
and salute the rising sun are just visible in the pic-
ture.

mountains back of Cuzco, flows through
the city and under part of it between
walls constructed by the Incas, crosses
the bed of an ancient lake, and finally

by those who have tried to do field-work
at similar elevations.

In 1911, owing to lack of preliminary
reconnaissance and excessivelv hard local

joins the upper waters of the Urubamba, conditions, the topographer of the expe-

called at this point the Mlcanota or Vil- dition had been unable to do anything on

camayu. the most diflicult part of the cross-section

Peruvian rivers have a habit of chang- map. This work was now undertaken by

506

-tc^.

A Wl.Ll. i;L1LT STAIKWAI : MACliU I'lCUlU

....J"^^^ ^'i^" ^'['^^^'^ ^^''^^^^ is the most carcfullv constructed stairwav at M-irh,. PJ^h.,
each one of whose steps was ori^nnallv a single l.Iock of ^ranfte Thfs IcLcU f rAm K "
Sacred Plaza up ,o the top of the Sacred Hill (see pa^es 47^.'5;ii and 5ci^ '^"^ '^'

Cliicf Topcj^rrapluT Ilunistead and As-
sistants Hardy and Little.

A route maj) was ouiiplctcd alont,' a
rarely used trail from Ahaneav. tlie capi-
tal of the department of Apuriinac. acmss
the Apuriniac \alley via Pasaje to
J.ucnia, this heinj,' the portion of the maj)
not conii)Ieted in k^i. Mr. i'.iimstead's
map is on a scale of i ineh to the mile,
with a contour interval of 200 feet. It
covers approximately z^(yo sfjuaro miles.
Frcfjuent latitude andazinnith ohserva-
tioiis were made all aloiij^' the route, and
an occidtalic.n r.f a first-ma^mitude star
was ohserved in comiection with time
sij^dits on the moon and Jupiter imme-
diately aftcTwards ( s^' page 3H8).

'i'iie rc.iite covered hy ihi, i,,.,j, ,. ,il» u
100 miles in length and passes through
a great variety of very heavv nuniiUain-
(»iis country. The elevations here ratigc
from alx.ut 4.CXK) feet up to more thp.n
H).ooo. The most imtv-tant fcatiircii
rejiresented on this niap are the glaciers
of that part (.f the X'ilcahamfKi Cordi"
hetween C'ho<|uetira, Arma. and Luv:....
A large part of this country was under
glaciation at no very distant <latc. an<l
great pains were taken to bring out the
glacial forms.

This map will In* of great value in
giving proper understanding of the i>h
«»grai»hy of the central \ndes. and .>
he published in connectioi: with Profcs-

507

5o8

Tni: .sLx dial: macul I'icciiu

A (.i:m of inca akciiitectukk

The little temple on top of the sacred hill near the Intihuatana stone

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sor Bowman's account of the geo-
logical cross-section made in 191 1.

In describing his work on this
map, Air. Bumstead says :

''With such meager control as
time and bad weather permitted, I
endeavored to make a map of as
wide a strip of country as possible,
that would first of all convey the
same impression of the topography
upon the person who should tise
the map as I had at the time that I
made it ; that is, I wanted my map
to accurately describe the char-
acter of each mountain and valley
shown. This I kept ever in mind,
and frequently reached out five or
six miles with estimated distances
to sketch features as I saw them,
knowing that even though their
positions and elevations were far
from right, the picture brought to
mind by the use of the map would
be far better than nothing at all.

"In the main, however, the map
is fairly well controlled, and in the
snow-and-glacier-covered m o u n-
tains around Choquetira and Arma
I took very great pains not only to
show a good picture of this won-
derful region, but to make an ac-
curate and dependable topographic
map as well, and I got good loca-
tions and elevations on all the peaks
and many other points besides.

''In making this map we followed
the route of Professor Bowman in
191 1. He expected the work to be
done in 21 days. I think it could
have been done in 30 days of good
weather, and done even better than
I did it, though I took three months,
as I was hampered by fog and rain
and snow almost continually from
the time we left Abancay. It was
aggravating in the extreme to catch
glimpses of the wonderful scenery
as the clouds would lift or settle
and then have the peaks disappear
from view before they could be lo-
cated and sketched "

It was hoped that Air. Bumstead
would be able to locate and get the
elevation of Mount Salcantay while
on this trip, but it remained cloudy
during the entire time.

510

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VITCOS

A map of the vicinii.
the last J Ilea capital of \'i'tco<
mchuhng the i^resent-dav vil-
lages of Puquiiira and Vilca-
baniha. was made on a scale
of 3 inches = i unh-, with
lOO-foot contours.

This country is of great in-
terest to students of historical
geograjihy. It is in the mi<isi
(»f a WMiidcrful labvrinth of
tropical valleys and g! jicr-
clad mountains. Readeis of
I'rescotts "Concjuest of Pe-
ru, a l3«M)k whose chami is
as fresh today as it eve was,
will remember that Pizarro
.selected Manco. a son of a
former Inca. as the most avail-
able figurehead in whose name
the Si)aniards could govern
Peru. Wl- was crowned Inca
in 1534. but he had to4» much
good red bl<K)d in his veins to
submit to Spanish, tutelage, so
he escaped, raised an arniv
of faithful Indians. be>ieged
Cuzco unsuccessfully, retreat-
ed to ( )llantaytamU>. and
thence made g«K>d his e.sca|)e
into the fastnesses of this An-
dean labyrinth.

lie found it ea>\ i.. dcieiid
himself in this practical!) im-
pregnable region called Vilca-
l)amba. and he was able (X*ca-
sionally to make raids on
Si)anish caravans iKuuid from
Cuzco to Lima. .\ large |>art
of the road over which he
nuisi have })assed in making
ihe.se raids wa.s inap|H'd !<>r
the first time by Mr. lUnn-
slead. and * ' ' • *(i\ in tlit
\n<lean cr« map re-

rred to alM>ve (page >••- .
The vol
lived at a i<.w . ........ x .«, ..^

for 10 years Merc he actu-
ally received and entertaine^l
Spanish r« ' ( >nr • f

these, a hot :., d fellow. Icll

out with the Inca over a g.unc

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of bowls (some writers
say it was chess), and in
the quarrel that ensued
the Inca was killed.

Two of his sons ruled
in turn in his stead, so
that for 35 years the coun-
try about Mtcos was gov-
erned by the Incas, and
was all that was left to
them of their magnificent
South American empire.

PRKvious se:archKs for

VITCOS

When the famous Pe-
ruvian geographer, Rai-
mondi, visited this region
about the middle of the
19th century, no one seems
to have thought of telling
him that there were any
ruins hereabouts. H e
knew that the young Inca
Manco had established
himself somewhere in this
region, and he also knew
that interesting ruins had
been found*' at Choqque-
quirau, and described by
the French explorer, Sar-
tiges, in the Revue des
Deux Mondes in 1851, so
Raimondi concluded that
the ruins of Choqque-
quirau must be those of
the last Inca's long-lost
capital.

Raimondi's proofs of
the coincidence of Choq-
quequirau and the Inca
capital are very vague, but
as long as the only ruins
reported from this region
were those of Choqque-
quirau, nearly all the Pe-
ruvian writers, including
the eminent geographer,
Paz-Soldan, fell in with
the idea that this was the
refuge of Manco.

The word "Choqque-
quirau" means "cradle of
gold," and this lent color
to the story in the ancient
chronicles that the Inca

512

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Manco had carried with him from
Cuzco great quamities of gold
utensils for use in his new capital.
Personally I did not feel so
sure that the case was proven.
Ihe ruins did not seem fine
enough for the Inca's residence
Consequently I was very glad that
It was possible in 191 1 to carry an
exploring expedition into the '\'il-
cabamba X'alley, and still more
(lelighted when we found interest-
ing ruins at a place called Rosas-
I)ata.

Xear Rosaspata was an extraor-
dinary monolith, called "frusta
Ivspana." By reference to the
vSpanish chroniclers, we found
that it was recorded thai near
\itcos, the last Inoa capital, was
a temple of the Sun, in which was
a while rock over a spring of
water. Furthermore, that X'itcos
was on top of a high mountain,
from which a large part of the
surrounding region could be seen,
and, moreover, that in the palace
of \ itcos the doors, both ordinary
and j)rincipal. were of white mar-
ble, beautifully car\ed.

\\\\\ THE NL-STA ESPANA l> ,,.r.

KEY TO THE IDENTIFIC.\TlON

OF VITCOS

Ml of these points of dcscrii>-
tion fitted the Rosaspata iK'aiiiy.
\\ ilhin ha'f a mile of Rosasp.na
are the ruins of an ancient build-
ing which might have U'en the
temple of the Sun. and in which
is found a huge while rock, over-
hanging a spring of water ( >ee
pictures, pages 550554). The
ruins <»f Rosasp.ita arc on ton of
a conspicuously high hill, from
which the view in all directions is
fine.

I^iii.dly the ruins »•! jC
unlike those of .\lachi.
and Choq(|uequirau. arc n<»l;
because there arc two kinds of
doors, ordinary and
ones, and that the d»H)r | . ....
made of .stones carefully carved
out of white granif' tricily

s|>eaking, there is n.. marble in

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thl: wkstern pkkciimcks: maciiu picchu

Forest trees growing wherever there is a f«xithold have uMully bcrn found in thit
refiion to cover ancient aKricuItnral terraces, and they prohahly d»i in the c .
this picture. The western trail to Machu Ticchu climhs out ni the canon in tl
hand cnrner and winds up the precipice until it passca over the shoulder near the t«*p «.i
the precipice.

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THt; TLAZA Ui SAVI.l.A : CUZCo VAI.LKV

In the Cuzco Valley, as well as on all the roads in the uplands of Peru, whenever an
Indian passes through a village he stops to get a drink of chicha, the native l>ecr. a large

glass of which may be jiurchased for ahout tun .intv Win n It is ili-.ml'. tti.mIi- it i\ tiot
disagreeable.

I'hoio by llirmm U-

A C()k\i:U nl- INK SAN FRANCISCO PUAZA : Cl'ZCO

Tn the market-plaies of Cuzco an«l nther Pcrtjvian cilic* |>ottcry »
t' • .icinity is ustiallv to he hnu^dit f<«r prices ranKHiK fri»m five l»»
made, hakcd in primitive ovens, and rudely decorated with varicKated

the h-

:. It

519

■ m

Photo by Hiram Bingham

A GRAVEL BANK CONTAINING BONES AND POTS-
HERDS : cuzco (pages 500-501)

There are many places near Cuzco where in the
stratified gravel banks bones and pieces of pottery
may be found interstratified with the pebbles. Dr.
Eaton and Lieutenant Sotomayor, on one of our first
walks out of Cuzco, located a number of these.

Maga::;ine for October, 19 12, and in
more extended form in the Pro-
ceedings of the American Anti-
quarian Society for April, 1912.

Returning to this location in Au-
gust, 191 2, I drained the marshes
that partly surround the rock at
Nusta Espana and excavated as far
as was practicable. To our sur-
prise and mortification we were un-
able to find any artifacts whatever
and only a handful of rough pots-
herds. We did uncover an inter-
esting priestly throne containing
nine seats. The work of excavat-
ing and the results may be seen on
pages 553 and 554.

V

INCA PLACE NAMES IN THE VILCA-
BAMBA REGION

A problem which particularly oc-
cupied my attention was the identi-
fication of ancient Inca place names
referring to the Vilcabamba coun-
try and occurring in the Spanish
chronicles, but not appearing on any
known maps.

Before leaving New Haven I had
an index prepared of all the places
that are referred to in the available
chronicles. A copy of this list was
taken with me in the field wherever
I went, and owing to the courtesy
of the managers of various planta-
tions and of local government offi-
cials, the most intelligent and re-
liable Indians were carefully ques-
tioned in regard to these places.

By this means it is believed that
a considerable body of geographical

nomenclature has been assembled,
this region.) Furthermore, the rock at and it is hoped that in the future it may
Nusta Espana bears in its carvings marks be possible to write a report that will
which indicate that at one time in the elucidate and interpret some of the more
remote past it was unquestionably an difficult passages in the chronicles,
object of veneration.

VI

This evidence made me believe that at
^J'usta Espana was the principal shrine of
the ancient people In this entire region,
and that the neighboring ruins of Rosas-
pata were in reality the ruins of Vitcos,
the last Inca capital. An account of the
discovery of these places and a statement
of the proof on which we have based our
conclusions may be found in Harper's Valley. Assistant Topographer Heald

EXPEORATION OE THE AOBAMBA VALLEY

As part of our plan to cover the area
included between the Urubamba and
Apurimac rivers, an archeological and
topographical reconnaissance was tiiade
of the hitherto unexplored Aobamba

520

-1

Till-: OSTEOLOGIST AT WORK: CLZCO VALUEY

i'llutu by lluaui iti:;t;liu,:u

In tlie north bank of the Huatanay River, a mile below Ciizco. Dr. Katon found a human
skeleton intcrstratified with clays and ^'ravels S feet under^^'round. Since the time when the
bones were deposited there, the entire held of coarse gravels had been laid there alK)vc ihcm.
and m the succeding centuries the river had cut down the bank until it fmally laid them
bare (see pages 500 and 501).

un(lerto(jk to approach this problem from
the mouth of the valley at the junction
of tlie Aobamha and I'nibaniha rivers.
Ife met with almost instiperahle (hffi-
culties.

Althoiii^h the wnrk looked ea>\ as far
as we could sec from the month of the
valU'V, he found tliat 4 nndes from the
mouth, U|) the winding stream, the jun^de
was so dense as to he ahno^t im])assahle.
There was no trail and the trees were
so larj^-e and the foliage so dense that ob-
servations were impossible even after the
trail had been cut. l^iu'in^'- a hard after-
noon's work ill jnnt^de of this kind, with
four or five men aidinj^ in making the
path, they succeeded in advancing only
one mile.

Reconnaissance work in this type. of
jungle is extremely discouraging and im-
profitable. h'nrflurmore, there are occa-
sionally some dangers — as. for instance,
the following from Mr. Ileald's acanuU
of his rccoimaissancc :

"( )n the way back to camp one of the
men had a narrow escape from a S! *
being grasi)ed and held by another m ;..^
l)eons jtist in time to j>rcvent his stepping
' 11 ii It was a small, dust-colored snake,
alxtut 10 inches long, and on In-Ing ex-
amined was foimd to jH)ssess two i»niall
IK^ison fangs far back in the jaw. The
fangs dilTcrcd from those of most poi-
sonous snakes in that they slanted back
very little, conu'ng almost straight down
to the lower jaw.**

TIIRKK NKW f.!<OUPS OF RUIN'S RKPOV

There was little of archeological inter-
est in the i)ortion of the valley which Mr.
Ileald succeeded in reaching. Onitc un-
expectedly, however. I got into the \\\>'
per reaches of the valley alxuit ten <
later an<l found some int- • >nni

and h.^d an tmexjH- ''-^ Tt

happened yw this wi

The larnest and richest rotate in the
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522

Photo by Hiram Binglunt
GOATHERDS AND SHEPHERDS: CUZCO VALLEY

The shepncrds of the Cuzco Valley arc usually small boys who, like David of old, spend
their early years with slinj^s in their hands tcndinvr tlu-ir fl.Mk<

I'bulo b) til

A ROMANTIC SHEEP PASTURE: TII-UN, NEAR OROI'KSA

IVcqucntly their sheep graze on ancient Inca terraces near carefully built retan
walls, or in the midst of interesting ruins alwMit whose history we know practically n«>thuu:

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TIIK KUIXS Ot' KUMI CCOI.CA

/

i'ootu by iiiram Hingium

A short distance east of Piquillacta are the ruins called Rumi Ccolca. it is impossible
to say positively whether this was merely a wall which guarded the entrance to the Cuzo
\'allcy, or whcllur it was an aqueduct that once carried water to the city of Piquillacta.

'-C^

^.Zm. T,

AN ARCIIITKCTURAL TUZZLK : KUMI CCOLCA

A nearer view of Kumi Ccolca shows the junction of two entirely tlitlercnt kin<!« i^f

stfuiewnrk. The orij^inal wall is <>f riMii^h stones laid in nunl, l»nt the
cut stones fitted tnmthtr without nmrtar alter the best Inca s\\\c. It
a later race cut a gate through the ancient aqueduct and lined it in their own ta»hiun with

their best stonework.

5^

i'hoto by Hira .xi Bingham

THE FINEST STONEWORK AT RUMI CCOLCA : CUZCO VALLEY

A detail of one side of the gateway at Rumi Ccolca, which shows stone blocks cut with
as much precision as the best work at Machu Picchu. The projecting nubbins left on these
rocks are an echo of similar marks left on the stone inside the priest's house near the Sacred
Plaza in Machu Picchu (see the picture on page 529).

by the Sefiora Carmen Vargas, who in-
herited from her father about 1,000
square miles of land lying between the
Urubamba and Apurimac rivers. Some
of the land is occupied by sugar planta-
tions ; other parts are given over to the
raising of sheep and cattle, while a large
portion is still tropical jungle. Seiiora
Carmen has always received us most
hospitably and done everything in her
power to further our efforts.

Her son-in-law, Don Tomas Alvistur,
an enthusiastic amateur archeologist, took
a considerable amount of interest in our
work and was quite delighted when he
discovered that some of the Indians on
the plantation knew of three localities
where there were Inca ruins, so they
said, that had not previously been visited
by white men.

Don Tomas invited me to accompany
him on a visit to these three groups of
ruins, but when the time came to go he
found that business engagements made
it impossible for him to do more than
accompany me part of the way to the
first group. He went to the trouble,

however, of securing three Indian guides
and carriers and gave them orders to
carry my small outfit whenever it was
impossible for the pack-mule to be used,
and to guide me safely to the three ruins
and home again.

They did not greatly relish these or-
ders, but as they were all feudal tenants,
holding their land on condition of ren-
dering a certain amount of personal serv-
ice every year in lieu of rent, they were
constrained to carry out the orders of
their overlord.

After Don Tomas departed I was left
to the tender mercies of the Indians and
of my faithful muleteer, Luis. The In-
dians had told us that one could visit all
three ruins and return the next day. This
information, however, did not prevent
me from putting in supplies for at least
a five days' journey, although I little
anticipated what was actually going to
happen.

The end of the first day's journey
found us on top of a ridge about 5,000
feet above the place where we had
started, in the midst of a number of

530

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primitive ruins and two or
three modern huts.

LLACTA PAT A, THE RUINS OF
AN INCA CASTI^K

This place was called Llacta
Pata. We found evidence
that some Inca chieftain had
built his castle here and had
included in the plan ten or a
dozen buildings. They are
made of rough stones laid in
mud, with the usual symmetri-
cal arrangement of doors and
niches. It would be interest-
ing to excavate here for three
or four weeks and get suffi-
cient evidence in the way of
sherds and artifacts to show
just what connection the peo-
ple who built and occupied
this mountain stronghold had
to the other occupants of the
valley.

After measuring the ruins
(see plan, page 556) and tak-
ing a few photographs (see
page 555), I asked the Indians
how far it was to the next
group of ruins, and was told
it was ''two or three hours'
journey."

Possibly it could be done by
an Indian runner, with noth-
ing to carry, in four or five
hours, but we had three mules,
that is, our two saddle-mules
and the one pack-mule, whose
load, weighing about 100
pounds, included a small tent,
cooking outfit, blankets, and
enough provisions for five
days.

Although I had selected for
this journey one of the best
and strongest p a c k-m u 1 e s
which we possessed, and al-
though his load was not much
more than a third of what he
could comfortably carry on a
good road, he found it impos-
sible to carry this load over
the trail that we found be-
fore us.

During the first two or three
hours the trail passed through
a dense tropical jungle. We

534

I'hoto by iliram iiingna:n

A S.MAI. I, CII Al'KI. OX THK OL'TSKIRTS Ol* AHANCAY

With cliaractcristic liospitality wlu-ii T k-ft Abancay on my way to Cuzo*. I w.'.- n-

panied this far by the prefect and iiis aide, and was sent on my way rcj«)icing and i iic

of the prefect's best horses, while my own mule had a day off. It is this generous spirit of
friendly courtesy that makes the work of exploration pleasant in a region where nature has
done all she could to make it difficult.

rc'ijcalcdly had to make dctotirs to avoid
deep sloughs, and occasionally had to
stoj) in order to have branches ctit away
so that the mules might get through.

Dii'i'icii/r COiNC.

'I'he trail grew rapidly worse, the
l)ack-nuile fell down four or five times,
and finally became so frightened that he
refused to attempt a i)lace in the trail
where it was necessary for him to jump
u\) about foiu- feet on a slipi)ery rock.
It was conse(iuently necessary to unload
him and distribute the cargo am<»ng the
Indian carriers, and get all han<ls to helj)
pull and ])Ush the nudes over the bad
si)ots in the mountain foot trail. ibis
went on at intervals during the remainder
of ihc <lay.

As a resul we foimd ourselves at night-
fall on a grassy sloi)e on the side of tlie
moiuitain about I5.()<x) feet al)ovc sea-
level. A little shefter here an<l the i>res-
cnce of a small spring made the Indians
jjicfer to ])ass the night at this point.

The next morning we crossc<l a high
pass and descended rapidlv into a steep-

walled valley, containing one of the
ui)per tributaries of the .\obamba. The
lower slopes were covered with a dense
forest, which gradually gave way to
scrub and grass up to the snt)W-line.
About 2 o'cl(»ck in the afteriux>n we
reached the valley l)ottoni at a \H^'\n{
where several smaller tributaries unite
to form the ])rincipal we>t branch of the
Aobaiuba. The place was called Palcay.

I lere we found two or three modern
In«lian htits. ^-nc of them located in a
vcrv interestip.g ruined stronghold calleil
Llacta. .\s the location of the strong-
hold in the l)ott«»ni of a valley was not
easily defensible, a wall aU»ut 12 feet in
height surrounded the cjuadrangnlar niin.

The strongh.>Id was aUnit 145 ^^*^**
M|uare am', divided by two narrow cros.-
streets into f«»ur e<jual <|iiarlers. Two of
these quarters liad Ikh-u o.>mplete<l. an I
consisted «»f five houses arranged

a courlvard in a synnnetrical f.*

The third (jtiarter was almost onnplete.
uhile the fourth c|uartcr had only the l)c
giiniings of two or three I '

one of the four quarir'^ '' •

535

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ANOTHER VIKW OF TIIK STOXK HOL'SIC: KUMIHUASI

Showing the cell where some people suppose a hermit passed his time, while his life v.
devoted to painfully decorating this boulder by the means of such rude stone implements as

he iiad at liand.

trance i^ate on its north side. This will
be more readily understood by consultini^
the plan on page 550-

The characteristics of the buildinj^^s
are distinctly Inca and resend)le in many
ways tliose found at ChucjcpKuiuirau in
1909. The stronghold was made of
blocks of stone laid in mud. tlu- l)nildings
of symmetrical ])attern, with doors nar-
rower at the to]) than at the bottom: no
windows, but interior ornaments of niches
and projectinj^ cylinders alternating be-
tween the niches. W'lienever the win<l
did not blow, the gnats were very bad,
which made the work of measuring and
mai)])ing tlic ruins extremely annoying.

DKSKRTKI) nv THi; INDIAN' C.l'inKS

1 shotdd hke to have continued the
journey the next day. but the Indians
objected, saying titat it was Simday and
that they needed the rest. This "rest"
gave tlu-m an opjx >rtunity f<»r concocting
a ])lan of escape, an«l on Monday morn-
ing, when 1 was ready to start for the
third grou]) of ruins, there were fio miidfs
or carriers in sij^du

Xcithcr I.uis ihu I had r\ii been in

the region before. We could ui course
have gone back on foot over tlic trail on
which we had conic, but it was very
doubtful whether wc could have suc-
ceeded in getting our mides over »hat
trail, even though we ha«l abandoned our
outfit, and we knew that a loaded nuilc
could not possibly go over the trail with-
out constant assistance and a nunilKT of
licli)ing hands.

To aid us in our dilemma there came
a little Indian who inhabited one of the
huts near the ruins. lie otTered for a
lonsideralion to guide us out of the valley
by an«>ther road, and .^yiid that it went
near the «»ther ruins. He also sai<l that
it mi)^ht not Ik* iH>ssible to use this '■•"!
'if the i)a<^ had iiuich snow in it."

W c talked to him with tlifficully. for.
hUe most moimtaiti Indians, he had no
knowledjje of Spani^ih. ."'d -Hir own
Knowledj^e 'tf Ouichua incwhat

limited. However, there was nothing
for it but to follow our new ptr ' ul
bv distributing the car-^n on tl »e

nudes make it as easy . d»le for the

|MM>r luMsts to use the ffiot-t»ath. or jji>at
trail, which was imlicat ' >ur * road *'

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Photo by 1 1 tram BingKam

Tin: OTIWM IMI'OKTANT CAKVKI) ROCK AT CONCACUA ( SKE PAGE 53^^

Called Picdra Labrada, which is simply the Spanish for "carved rock." It was once one
of tilt* most extraordinary monoliths in Soutli America. Hut within the past forty years it
has been terribly mutilated. Remains of the animals and strange figures arc still to be seen,
but most of the heads have been destroyed either through superstiti(»n or caprice. It- t

state is a j,darinK example of the necessity f(»r preserving the ancient ruins »>f Peru. -r

sending properly equipped expeditions to study these ancient sites before the historical evi-
dence they contain is lost owinp to ij^mrance or prrecd.

We had not p^one more than half a mile
before an al)rni)t ascent in the trail 'iiid
a luij^e sloping rook barred the way for
the mules for over half an hour. This
(lifficiilty hein^ siirmoimted. we went on
for another mile, only to find our way
crossed by a huj^e avalanrhe of j^ij^aiitic
j^nanile botdders and glacial drift, which
had come down from the slopes of Mount
Salcantay during the i)ast year. A couple
of hours were spent in negotiating the
trail across this landslide.

We then foimd ourselves near the
ruins of a village. ju<lging by the primi-
tive ai)i)earance of llie ruins, it cnuld md
have been a jdur of nni<h iinpott.iine

and it is im|)ossible to say whether it liad
been occuj)ied since the Spanish conquest

or not.

Tilt: DISCOVKRV OF TKN MACNMFICKNT
GLACIERS

Climbing up the valley IxryorKl thl^
ruined village ami turning a corner, wc
came into fidl view of lO magnificent
gl.iciers — eight of them in n cirfjuc in
front of us and two on tl cs of

Salcantay Indiind us. .\s tlic guide wa<
very well informe<| as to the names of
ilitferent parts of the valley and ct)uld
give names for most of the peak* but
none for any for the glaciers. I have

5.19

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I'h .r., l,v H,

MAP MAKING IX THE ArL'KIMAC VAKLKV

Chief Topographer Bunistead working at his plane table making the map between Aban-
cay and Pasajc. The difficulties of map making in canons, varying from 4.000 to 10.000 feet
in depth, can scarcely be appreciated excei)t by practical engineers (sec pages 506. 507).

( 1 ) Iladlcy Glacier, in honor of the
President of Yale University.

(2) Gannett Glacier, in honor of the
President of the National Geographic So-
ciety.

(3) Grosvenor Glacier, in honor of the
lulitor and Director of the National Geo-
graphic Society.

(4) Bryce Glacier, in honor of llis
Excellency James Bryce, the i>ritish Am-
bassador, whose interest and enthusiastic
stii)])ort has greatlv stinnilated our work.

(5) Ilarkness Glacier, in honor of Ed-
ward S. Ilarkness, Esq., of Xew York,
whose generous assistance was largely re-
sponsible for making ])ossil)le the expe-
ditions of l(;i 1 and |()IJ.

(6) .llfreda Mitchell Glacier, in h<»nor
of my wife, witiiout who.se co«>i)eration
none of this work could have been done.

(7) Taft G! icier, in recognition of the
courteous assistance we received from
the Ignited States government.

(S) Le(/iiia Glacier, in recognition of
the courteous assistance we received
from the IVruvian government.

(()) Morhill Glacier, in recognition of
the comteous assistance we riciixi'd
from the Peruvian corporation.

(10) Vale Glacier — for obvious rea-
sons (.see pages 5U). 5^).V5^\^)-

\\ bile we were enjoying the won<ier-
ful spectacle and wondering whether any
civilized being had ever seen the glaciers
l)efore, a magnificent gray deer with eii^ri
])rongs to his horns sprang out of the
grass near us, gave us a long Kx^k of in-
terested interrogation, and then dashed
off to find his friends.

( )ur little guide was more interested
in the bx^ks of the pass than in the deer,
and although he shcx^k his head as it
came into view, it seemed to us that we
were most fortunate. fi>r there a|>|)eared
to be no snow whatever on the trail all
the way to the top of the pass. Hut we
neglected to take into account the fact
that we were approaching the pass from
the north or simny side, and that there
miglit be sn«>w on the trail on the otic '■
side of the i)ass, on the «»uth or sh.. .
slo]>e.

TiiK cRANnnrR of thk scknkry
All ihtuights of this, however, were
tem|H)rarily swept aside by the magnifi-
cent view of Salcantay. which we now
had on our right han<i The picture on
J). 5(1^ gives but a faint idea of the jfrati-
deiir of this mountain. In many ways it
is an ideally beautiful iH'ak. r- '
does to a sharp poitif, wiih it-

54J

Photo by Paul Bestor

THE FERRY AT PASATE : APURIMAC VALLEY

The Director crossing the Apurimac River on a raft at Pasaje. The Indian ferryman is
looking back in astonishment that a ''gringo" should know how to use a paddle

-ered with snow and ice, and lifting its
head so magnificently thousands of feet
higher than anything else in the vicinity.

Our own elevation at the time was a
little over 16,000 feet, and a conservative
■estimate would place the top of the moun-
tain at least 5,000 feet above us. It was
a very great disappointment that we were
unable, owing to the bad weather, to get
the mountain triangulated, so that its
height still remains an unknown quantity.

The American mining engineers at
Ferrobamba believe it to be the highest
peak in the Andes, and Mr. Stevens, the
superintendent of the mine, which is
nearly 100 miles away from the moun-
tain, told me that he had seen it from so
many distant points of the Andes that
he felt confident it must be the highest
mountain in South America.

Just before getting to the top of the
pass we turned aside for a few moments
to see the remains of a hole in the
ground where it is said that there was
once an ancient gold mine.

A few specimens of rock brought from
the talings appear to contain small quan-
tities of silver and copper, but the altitude

is so great and the surroundings so
difficult that it is not likely that this mine
will ever be a profitable working propo-
sition.

THE MULES STAMPEDE ON A SNOW SLOPE

Our joy in the scarcity of snow on the
north side of the pass was instantly re-
duced to despair when we reached the
summit and looked down a precipitous
slope covered with snow for a distance
of at least 1,000 feet below us.

The sandal-shod mountain Indians,
whose occasional huts are the only signs
of human habitation hereabouts, had
made a zig-zag path in the snow by
means of tramping down the upper crust
with roughly cut stumps of stunted
mountain trees. The path was about
eight inches wide.

Our mules had never been in the snow
before. At first our Indian guide de-
clared he would not go down with us, as
he was afraid of snow blindness, but he
was persuaded to accompany us.

Our mules took a few steps on the little
path, then decided that the white snow
field looked more inviting and left the

542

} ilirain ItitiKhain

A \1K\\ ol- I'.WTA MUUNTAIN

Between Pasaje on the Apiiriniac and Lucma lies a remarkable mountain region of
jjflaciers and snowy peaJ<s, of which the finest is Panta Mountain, The makin«j "f ''»«• »" ">
in this vicinity was accompanied by great hardships and innumerable difficulties

path, fell into the soft snow tij) to their
ears, flotindcred arotiiul and atteni])te(l to
stam]KMle, and rolled down the side of
the nioinitain. It was nearly half an
hour hefore we j^ot them safely back on
the trail aj^ain, where they stood trem-
bling and unwilling to attempt the de-
scent. Coaxing and cur>es were e(|ually
of no avail. Pulling, hauling, and beat-
ing were alternately resorted to.

v^omehow or other, chietly localise «»ur
trail lay down hill, so that when they fell
and lloundered ofT the path they always
landed a little nearer to their goal than
when they had started, we eventually got
the mules to the foot of the declivity, but
onlv after several narrow escapes and
three hours of hard work. As wc looked
l)ack tij) the trail it seemed that perhaps
I.5(X) feet would be a more exact e>ti-
niate of the heiirht of the snow-covcretl
slope.

just at dusk we reache<l the lir>l hut in
the valley, and found that we were in «»ne
of the ui)per branches of the C'hanianii
River, a tributary of the rrubamba,
which Mr. Tucker. <.f the 1«>II expedi-
tion, had rccMnnoii.T..,! the prece<Iinp
N'ear.

DISCoVKKV Ol-" TIIK I'ICTo..., .. ...^ .. .,

In this valley was the third proup of
ruins which wc had been told abtiut.
Their mo>t unusual feature lay in the
fact that the Incas. desiring to save as
much of the upland valley floor as p —
sible for agricultural j)ur|M)scs. 1 i '.
straightened the Ix^d of the meandering
stream and inclosetl it in a stone-lint 1
channel, making it practically jK»rfeclK
straight fi.r nearlv three-(|narters of a
mile.

The valley is still used to
extent for rai«^ing and freezin-
The owner of the hut near
camped entertained our Indian guide in
compensation for his assistance in
ing potatoes to \k frozen that nigl
distance below us in the valley !•
The next day our guide tt^>k us l)ack up
the valley and out through a -
tributary, where • '••>seil the .
between the I'ri ami Apuri

valleys an<l desceiKled ttiwanl the town
of I.imatandx»

This was ojm . . the nio^t fortunnte
accitlents of the trip, for had wc »'
to go down the C'hanianii over Mr. Tuck-

543

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' v'*>

Photo by Hiram Bingham
j:xpi,ORING ONIvY 13 DEGREES PROM THE EQUATOR

The caravan c. :.sv;ng a pass near Panta Mountain. The elevation here is about 15,000 feet;

the latitude is 13 degrees S.

er's route and return quickly down the
Urubamba to our starting point, we
should have missed seeing a most inter-
esting rock which lay alongside of the
little path we followed on this day's jour-
ney.

Neither the guide nor the muleteer
had their eyes open for petroglyphic or
pictographic markings, and so did not
notice that they had passed close to the
only rock so far discovered in the de-
partment of Cuzco that contains petro-
glyphs. Others have been reported by
vague rumor, but none so far have been
located except this one, w^hose existence
was known to one or two cowboys on
a neighboring ranch. The photograph
gives a better idea of ttie markings than
can be expressed in words (see page 566).

The character of the petroglyphs is es-
sentially savage. They remind one of
some of the glyphs used by our own
western Indians. It seems to me possi-
ble that these marks were left on this
rock by an Amazon Indian tribe who
came thus far on the road to Cuzco. In
tlie vicinity there were a few groups of
stones which might indicate the former
presence of rude huts, but until a com-
parative study can be made of all the

pictographs and petroglyphs in Peru and
in the Amazon basin it will be difficult to
speak very definitely about this new dis-
covery.

That night I was most hospitably en-
tertained at a small ranch house and the
next day made a forced march to Cuzco,
reaching there shortly before midnight.
This journey, which began so inaus-
piciously and might have ended in dis-
astrous failure, actually produced more
results in the discovery of hitherto un-
described ruins than any other part of
the work.

VII

CHOOQUEQUIRAU.

In 1909, owing to the courtesy of the
Peruvian government and at their ur-
ofent invitation, I had visited the ruins
of Choqquequirau. An account of this
visit was published in the American
Anthropologist for October-December,
1910 (pages 505-525), and also in my
Across South America, pages 291-323.

A French expedition had visited the
ruins about 60 years before and had
reached them from the north, over a
path that has turned back several expedi-

546

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i:\IM.oUI NC. riVK IKHUS I.ATKR

]'i\v lintirs afur crossinn tin- snow pass shown in ihc last picture wc were cninc thr
a dense tropical jnnj^lc at an elevation of kmkm) feet alK»ve the »ea. Thit i
Arctic regions to the tr«»pi^'»l «^* '»'H' "^ the niMst striking and at the snn* •
most trying features of the work of I'erjivian exploration.

547

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tions since then. In 1909, owing
to the existence of a small tempo-
rary bridge, I was able to reach
them from the south, but had not
found it possible to spend more
than four days there.

That bridge disappeared some
time ago, and as it was now deemed
advisable to attempt a further re-
connaissance of those celebrated
ruins, I asked ]\Ir. Heald to see
whether he could not reach them
from the north, across the Cordil-
lera of Vilcabamba. An enthusi-
astic young German merchant in
Cuzco had attempted this feat two
years before, but failed to get more
than half way from Yanama, the
nearest settlement.

Knowing ]\Ir. Heald's pluck, I
felt sure that he could get there if
anybody could, but that if he failed
the only alternative must be to re-
construct the bridge over the Apuri-
mac. The latter would have been
a serious undertaking, as the river
is over 200 feet wide and the rapids
are strong and very dangerous.

Mr. Heald not only succeeded in
reaching Choqquequirau, but visited
the place three times, made a passa-
ble trail, and was able to conduct
thither Dr. Eaton and Dr. Nelson.
Their stay was limited by the very
great difficulties which they encoun-
tered in securing laborers to accom-
pany them, and in carrying sufH-
cient food for themselves and the
laborers over the extremely rough
country.

A HARD day's WORK

As a sample of the difficulties en-
countered, let me quote the follow-
ing from I\Ir. Heald's account of
his first day out from Yanama :

". . . After a three hours' climb
we reached a spot well above 14,000
feet and had a splendid view of the
country. From here I could get an
idea of the kind of traveling I
would encounter, and it did not look
very inviting. AMiere the jungle
was not thick the mountain-sides
were steep and rocky. I could see
the course of the Apurimac, some-
where near which was Choqque-

548

Photo by Ilir..
()[']< CARAVAN' CHOSSIXc; T H K I'ASS BET\VP:EX AUMA AND rUOUIUKA! THE PASS OF

CHUCUITo

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"IT'RN

tin: IKMSE ni- ANDREAS (jl I VTANII.LA

A tvpic.il hut at l'u(|uiura. in the Vilcabamha Valley, whcr. hmpilahly cntrr-

taiiu'd for several days durinK the preliminary work of cxcavatuiR the monolith and ^hrme

at .^iista Ivspaiia. n«ar \'i''"

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Photo b}' Hiram Bingham

ROCK CARVIXG AT NUSTA HSPANA

A detail of some of the carving on the great monolith at :Rnsta Espana. These project-
ing stones remind one of Machu Picchu, where they are frequently in evidence, and seem to
have been used for practical as well as ornamental and religious purposes.

quirau, and the green cane fields in the
province of Abancay, on the other side.

''From a purely artistic point of view
the country was wonderful, with its
splendid ranges of gleaming white peaks
all covered by glaciers, and the dark
green of the jungle below leading down
into straight-sided valleys with streams
white with foam running down them.
From the point of view of one who had
to travel through it for the purpose of
getting to a place, location unknown, and
making a trail to that place, it was any-
thing but lovely.

''After looking my fill and taking com-
pass readings on Yanama and various
prominent points, we started down. There
had been condors swinging above us ever
since we had reached the high point, and
now one flew quite close. I fired at him
with the 22 AMnchester automatic, and
for a moment thought he was going to
fall. He recovered his balance, however,
and went sailing off ; but after traveling
about half a mile he suddenly collapsed
and fell, turning over and over and over
into the brush, where, after quite a hunt,
we foimd him, dead.

"Tic was a splendid bird, spreading a
Htlle over 9 feet 6 inches and measuring

4 feet from bill to tail tip. This shot
showed both the hitting power of the
little 22 and the wonderful vitality of the
condor. The mushroom bullet had gone
through breast and breast-bone, lungs,
liver, and intestines, lodging against a
thigh-bone. Tomas carried the bird back
to the hacienda, where the prowess of
the little rifle caused much admiration.
We took off the skin and spread it to
dry on one of the frames built to jerk
meat, of which there were several in the
yard. Xext morning it was nowhere to
be seen, and, as the mayor-domo said
that it was no use looking for it, I sur-
mised that he knew where it was and
agreed with him. . . ."

TROUBLE WITH BEARS AXD JUXGLE ElJES

Dr. Eaton's party had some trouble
with hungry bears, which broke open a
food box and devoured a quantity of pre-
cious provisions. These bears belong to'
the spcctaclcd-hcar genus, and, althougli
plentiful in this region, are extremely shy
and hard to get a shot at.

The perils of the trail were many, but
the most serious handicap, as every ex-
plorer has found in this region before,
and the most annoying thing they had to

552

c n cl u r e, was the ever-present
swarms of green jungle-flies. Mr.
Heald says in his report :

'They are Httle fellows, but the
way they bite is not the least in
proportion to their size. Every
place they bite they leave a blijod-
spot the size of a pin-head, and this
burns and itches for two or three
days. There were swarms of them,
and soon we were all swelling. The
only thing we cf>uld do was to grin
and bear it. When we sto])ped to
rest we made a smudge, but while
traveling the best we coulcl do was
to slaughter as many as we could.

'*. . . With the coming of dark
the Mies had left us, but they left
us in very bad shape. Xot a man
of tis cotild bend his wrists, they
were so swollen : the knuckles on
the hands were invisible, and our
eyes were mere slits that it cost an
effort to open enough to look out
of. Still, there was a lot to be
thankful for. There was lots of
dry wood where we stopped, and
we soon had a fire going, which
warmed and dried us. The night
was clear, .so there was no danger
of being gotten out of bed 1)\' rain.
I had shot a jungle duck, and the
inner man was i)erfectly satisfied.
What botliered me most was that 1
was afraid the ])eons would try to
run away, and I very nuich doubted
my ability to carry enough food to
enable us to find Cho(i(|ue(|uirau
\vith(»ut their helj). . . ."

lirain IIhk
ANOTMKU VIKW ()!• TIIK MO.NOMTII NE.\R VITCOS

Tlic cast end of the monolith at 5}u$ta Espana

ovtTh.'in^'s a spring. Near llii«» was ^• '

at first to be a stone platform. The p:

554 show what our excavations rc\ caleil ai ihi* ih.jiu.

TIM". SCAIUITV ol" W.\Ti:r .\\I> Sn* 1* IK I \ < .
ri<o.\l Til I In SI.

Their most serious difficulty, however,
was the lark of water and the height an«l
steepness of the mountains, which cut
them off from any i)os>^ible water supply.
Here is a sami)le of what they sufTered :

"The next morning, when 1 went to till
my canteen with water. I foimd that there
was none. The men said that they had
drunk it. bni I felt pretty sure thai they
liad JH Mired it out. believing that then we
would have to turn back. 1 would have
done so (though no farther than the
spring we had uncovered the day before).
l,nl the Director had told me there wa«<

a spring easily foiuid at ChcKiquefiuiran.
and I was eonVidenl thai wc must Ik: near
the plact

"in froiii -i u- .-. i sharp riclgc. I
was sure thai if we gainc<| its top wc
w(»uld see the city t»n the other sicle.
The fire had cleared lite gnuiiul
was not har<r. il had als4» clc... . ...

the thes. .\fler alh.ul two \vaits of
climbing we sIckmI on ton <»f the lowcM
saddle of the ri<lge Thi'* had Uen
reached after s^mie rather ticklJ-h clitT
climbing. < >n I. Hiking over tho
we were tremendously d
instead of a citv tl ■
ravine V' the m«

Photo by Hiram Bingi'iam
COMMENCING EXCAVATIONS AT NUSTA ESPANA NEAR PUOUIURA, NEAR THE STONE

PLATFORM SHOWN IN THE LAST PICTURE

•.^5a» i

\;sp@|

;■-...>*,-. v^- •. i%^-

■>

y^-3

.•- .. ^A •.■^ ...,< .r

^H

^, \-r;:'--^. -■■^^

m

^'v^-. *^'^v'#'-,

X

S-w *^i •*••■<«• ■%*•'«

\

y»*' *.J;" ■. : • ■ ^- ■.^■.'^.!'

L. '^ * * .

J^

,.»*:>.*»• ...

■ -i

^

Photo by Hiram Bingham

THE RESULTS OE EXCAVATION AT NUSTA ESPANA

The seats near the spring at Rusta Espana after excavation. They are cut out of large
rocks, so that the platform on which they rest, the seats themselves, and the lower portion of
the back are all part of the same rock. Thus only three or four large rocks were used for
the entire row of seats. The excavations here yielded no results in the way of potsherds or
artifacts (see page 520).

554

i'noio by liiram liinguain

CCOKIlIUAVUACil IN A

Tin- ruitis of CcoriluuiN rachina, in the Urul)anil)a Valley, are very prunitive and were
visited for the first time in 1912. Inside of one of the houses here shown is a solitary square

f)rojcctiiij^ str)nc. the only thintr that ditTerentiates the^e ruins from many others.

V\,H INK ..K..I I' M, K.I.ATIVKI.Y UNIMI'OKTANT kllN> \ ISITKD FOR Til
IN \i)\2 WAS AT I.I.ACTA I'ATA IN TIIK \Oll\MII\ VAI.I.KN

Corners of two of the •smaller house* arc shown in this picture as well as the
t. lit used hy m<.st of our parties. It has only a single |H>le ami may l»c ea*ily put :

111. in in live minute'^ '-'•• '•"*'• •> >t'«' ^.M).

^CS

=n ^^^^^ ^^

"^X^ I J .; : W VJ •"//<?^^'vxj~x r ;:„'■-

;;^v«;;;i

■

i

-^^^

mm-mmm

r

-S

TERRACE

Measured by H.ram Bm^Kan

Orawo by Albert H Bur»i5tea

PLAX OF THE RUIXS OF LLACTA PATA NKAR HUADOUIXA. DISCOVERKD BY HIRAM

P.IXGHAM IN I912

This plan shows the more important group of ruins at Llacta Pata, but does not show
any part of those illustrated in the preceding picture. As in all Inca ruins, the marked
characteristic is the symmetrical arrangement of niches within oblong buildings (see also
text, page 534).

Plioto bv Hiram Bingham

HSTAXCIA IN PALCAY

The most important group of ruins discovered in tqt2 was that at Palcay. a hitherto
unreported locality, where T found an extraordinary square fortified stronghold resembling
in architectural details the ruins of Choqquequirau, described in m^^ "Across South America, *
Chapter XXIII (see text, page 535, and plan, page 559).

5S6

Measured by Hiram Bingham
^Drciwn by Albert H. Bumatead

RUINS OK KSTANCl A IN I'AIAAV

This ruin of a small isolated ^roup of buildings at Palcay prohalily represents a temple
and the residence of the priest. The presence ..f hu^e mcks. the careful character i^i ♦'•••
constructi<»n, and tin- ahsrnce of other luiildin^s all i)«»int to this conchision.

tlic knife c'dj^e dI ia\iiKS. hoping' that
the cit)' would come into \ie\v. and al-
ways (h*sa])pointed

**l>y noon we had C(Mne to where the
ridi^a* nierj^'ed into the niotintain proper
and were working ahmj^ its sides. After
the slop f. .r Inneli the men refused to go
any farther. 'Phey .said if they (Hd It
woidd he nurely !•> die of thirst; that tlie
eitv of Clio(j<jiie(|niran was non-existent,
and that ihey did n. d wish to die just
hL'cailse I did.

KXTRKMi: MKASl'UKS nF.COM K NKCESSAK"

"I knew we cMnhhTt make them work.
hut I thorj^dil we eouid foree tlicm to
li !\id Civini^ the 22 to 'I'oni.'is. I t<dd

him to .sh«M»t any man who tried t«» 1»"^^
hut to do it oarefnllv. around the
Then, takinj^: a machete. I started ahead.
cuttinij the way. and told them to {ol
low. \^ Tt>mas sttM»d U'lween them
anti the hack trail, they decided to do S4>.
and for two h«mrs we went ahead in thai
way. My that time I wa *• • ^ ••' ^
hausted. as we were u
thick cane and I was Ri»inK at h*v sijccd.*
"Coming' out on a hltle sh '" . I

thoiij^dit I 'iaw '— '"'"- "'^ • fxl

sptir ahead. 1 »">' R'*'*^'^

It >ii..u!H not *'
Mr HcaUl wa*

hi
p.i

r..r....tf.-lt tfl.it tt! t'

JA.>-:Jil

". • • AMiile four of us were
fixing camp I sent the other two
out to look for water. In an hour
they came back with the news that
there was none to be found. By
this time we were aU very thirstv,
but there was nothing to do but
grin and bear it.

WATKK HARD TO FIND

"About midnight I was wakened
by a man crying and pleading. It
was Tomas, who was having a
nightmare. This in itself would
not have been serious, but it ex-
cited the superstitions of the peons.
They said the Incas were angry be-
cause we were there, and they
wanted to be gone at daylight. I
thought it best to spend some time
making a search for the spring ; so,
as soon as it was light, we started
and for an hour hunted in the
jungle, but without result. The
best we could do was to get water
from air plants and chew certain
bulbs which contained much mois-
ttire. This was not such a small
help as it might seem, for many of
the air plants had a good swallow
of water in them, though of course
we got it drop by drop at a time.

"Giving up hopes of finding a
spring near the city, we took the
back trail. W'e were all pretty
weak, but we made very fair time.
Reaching the ridge, we climbed
down by a new way, marking our
trail with piles of stones, and also
confirmed it. Then I pointed them out followed a new trail back to the draw
to the men. They too saw them, and in which the spring was, striking the
after that there was no trouble. They draw a good deal higher up. This turned
were as anxious to get there as I was, out to be a better road ; also it led us to
for we were all suffering from thirst, and the discovery of a series of stone-faced
I had told them there was a spring there, terraces, and at one point in them the
"Two hours of hard work placed us on spring broke through, so that with a little
the spur, though still high above the ruins, fixing we could get all the water we

l-'hoto by Hiram Bingham

A CORNER OF THE RUIXS OF LLACTA IX PALCAY

Showing a niche and a projecting cylindrical
stone, and the chief Indian guide, who deserted with
his fellows two da3^s' later and left us in the lurch.

From there we could see several stone
houses and two thatched huts, which had
been left by the treasure-hunters who
had come from Abancay two years pre-
viously. Just at dark we reached these
huts. They showed signs of the old oc-
cupancy. There were two or three skulls
l}ing around. A table-stone or two were
in evidence and in one corner was an
old Inca pot.

wanted, and that was a good deal."

They later found water within an
hour's walk of Choqquequirau, and had
a plentiful supply for the work of ex-
cavating as long as their provisions lasted.
They had hoped to accomplish a good
deal of map-work, but, owing to the great
amount of rain and the almost continuous
prevalence of fog and mist, little could
be done besides making a route map.

:>:)(

1

P

Measui-ed by Hiram Bin^.haTi
Drawn by Albert H Burrstead

ri.Axs ov tin; kiins oi- i.i.acta i.\ ivm.cav discuvkkkd in 1912

The most reiiiark.'il)K' fi-.iturc <>f this fortifiid stmnj^hnld is t! at tlic cr<»«-s- streets repre-
sent as nearly the exact cardinal p. ints as it was possible for men wurkiPK witli crude 1«m.|s
to effect. These ruins are in the Southern Hemisphere, so the North Star is not visible.
The ancient Peruvians did nnt know the use of the compass, and if tliey had ihc buiUlinKS
would have been arranged ace* >rdinj^' to the magnetic north and not according to true n«»rth.
So exactly do the streets follow the local meridian ami parallel that the exact orientation
can hardly be said to be an accident (see pa^cs 535 and 5,?7).

A((ll)i:.\TS AMONC. Till*. INDIAN'S.

Tlic Tndians siiftVrcd f|uite as imicli as
llu' while men on this journey. ( )ne of
the bearers, who was carrvinj^' a foocl-
box wei^bin^' (^ ]K)un(ls, slipped on a
steep bank and fell Jo feet ; ibe 1h)X,
wbieb fell with bini. opened bis lu:id.
The man was iKd killed, but of rourse
b.id to be sent bonic. and as lalM>rcrs
were extremely scaree. bis ]>r_sciK'e was
seriously nn'ssed.

Another Indiati ran .i -liik into bis
foot an<l blo()d-])Mis»ininj^ ensued. \ tbird
slipi)cd otT a preeipitous n>ek and fortu-
nately was saved bv the n>pe wbieb bad
been tied to bis wai^t when passinj^' tins

danijeroiis part of the trad. allb«»tij;li be
bad a toe-nail torti otT aiu! sutYcrcil coii-
si<lerably from bl«M)d-|X)i.soiiing.

The results of these hanlships were
the nuite map the first ever made of
this seetion «>f the \inles tlie <lise.»vrry
of a mimlK^r of hitherto unknown Inea
eiijjineering works, ineludini; ditehes and

ai,Mit'ulinral terraces, now bur' ' ' ••*

the jungle and praetiealK i-

and a few boxes of arche«>logioal an»l

( "Stet >k >j;iea1 •speeimens.

Hecau'^e of the scarcity of laU .
terror of the Indians and the sniall cj.
tity of provisions that onild !>c carried
o\ '-r the e\tr<Mnelv dift'i* * • ' »v

was nnly able Ut s\K\\i\ ' r

559

E-Xrr- ■'m-fm"

560

IX THE WOXDERLAXD OF PERU

561

quequirau. Under Dr. Eaton's direction
1 1 graves were examined and such skel-
etal material and pottery collected as four
men could carry on their return march.
Xo metal objects were found in these
graves.

The method of burial was similar to
that observed at Machu Picchu, exce])t
that the ccjnstruction of bottle-necked
graves was far sui)erior at Choqque-
cjuirau, and this style of grave apparently
more in vogue than at Machu Picchu.
It may be noted here as significant that
a])])arently tlic best exam])le of the bot-
tle-necked gra\c at Machu Picchu was
ffjund in a house closely resembling in
its architectural details the buildings at
Choqquequirau.

This route had only been used three
times previously : ( i ) by the h^rench ex-
plorer Sartiges in 1834, (2) by the I Pe-
ruvian explorer Samanez in 1861, and
(3) by the Almanza brothers in i^^S-
It was used successfully this year for the
first time since 1885. Creat credit is due
Mr. Ileald for his courage and persever-
ance.

VIII

AX'I'II KOI'OI.OC.ICAL STUniKS.

The anthroi)ol(^gical study consisted
chiefly in the taking, with extreme care
and marked regard for scientific accu-
racy, of a number of antlirojxtnu'tric
measurements.

1'lu' blanks used for the measurements
were ])r('i)ar('d by Dr. II. P. I'erris, of
the ^'ale Medical School, and the results
and i)hotograi)hs have been turne<l oxer
to him for the i)rei)aration of a report
on the anatomical characteristics of the
Mountain Indians of Southern Peru as
represented in the data obtained by the
ex peel it ion.

Owing to the habit that the Mountain
Indians have <»f fre(|Uently visiting Cuzco,
llie piincipal center of ])opulation. we
were enabled to secure measurements of
re|)resentatives of many villages and
towns that we did not visit. lU'sidcs
Cn/co. anthro])ological measurements
were taken in nuafUniina. Machu I'icchu.
and Santa Ana.

At Machu i'icchu wc iiad our «.\\n

workmen to draw on, while at .^ai.ia
Ana and Huadquina the managers of
the large sugar plantations kindly placed
their laborers at our disix)sal. In Cuzco
it was necessary to employ force. Had
it not been for the willingness of the
Peruvian government to assist us. we
should have failed in our object.

The method followed was to have the
officer or soldier who was assigned to us
go out on the streets and arrest any In-
dians that seemed to be of pure blood
and who ])roclainied by their costumes
and general a])pearance that thev were
typical -Mountain Indians.

On being arrested, tlie unfortunate
subjects were brought to the dtKtor's
room at the hotel. Many of the Indians
thought that they were being recruitc<l
for service in the army, and not a few
shed tears at the thought : others were
only curious. .Ml were much relieved
when they were set free and given a
five-cent piece with which to buy r/nV/iu
( native beer made from maize 1

Thirty-eight measurements were taken
of each subject — measurements of head,
face, ears, and nose, as well as of hciglu
standing, kneeling, sitting, and others
Manv other data were also recorded cou-
cerning any ])eculiaritics or deformations.
color of eyes and hair, and other facts of
anthropological interest.

One hinulred and forty-five Indiana
were thus studied, and a froiil an<I side
\ iew photograph taken of each. They
rei)rescnted i^> pn winces and do '
Most of these were men. Photo^ .j .
of manv Indian women were als<i taken
in Cuzco and at the stations l)etween
Cuzco and .Mollen<lo. making 433 photo-
grai)hs in all taken for this study.

Some of the Indians were jn'<^atly
frightened at the ppnedure. Tt> f»ne aped
Indian militarv honors ap|>eale<l. a '
t<M»k his measurements with a -
face. .Vnother Indian, when he ftnnn! he
could have his picture taken free. <'
in his Sunday clothes. The next
returned t<» see the photograph,
he was shown the negative he refused to
believe that it wa-i his picture. 1'
he couldn't "'f color "^ •^•

gles that d« 1 that

wore.

562

THE NATIONAL CxEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE

COXCLUSIOXS REACHKD FROM TIIK MKAS-
UREMENTS AXD KXA.MIXATIOXS.

At Huadquina the Indians were or-
dered to a room to be measured. One
subject objected strenuously and made it
as difficult as he could for any measure-
ments to be taken. He would not stand
straight, nor sit straight, nor assume any
position correctly. Finally, wdien the
measurements were all taken, he was
offered the usual medio for his trouble.
This small coin, with which one could
purchase a large drink of native beer,
was usually gratefully accepted as a quid
pro quo, but in this case the Indian de-
cided he had been gi^'evously insulted,
and he threw the coin violently to the
ground and strode off in high dudgeon.

Remarkably few cranial deformations
were found, these being all slightly acro-
cephalic. The following facts were no-
ticed about the Indians : The leg and back
muscles are markedly developed, while
their arm muscles show very meager de-
velopment ; their work consists largely of
carrying heavy loads upon their backs
over mountain trails ; the Indians do not
become bald, and their hair seldom loses
its pigment ; their teeth are also remark-
ably well preserved, except on the sugar
plantations, where they suck the sr.gar-
cane and eat coarse brown sugar (cJiaii-
caca).

An interesting custom which still pre-
A'ails was observed as being practiced
about two miles outside of Cuzco, as one
goes north toward the Urubamba \ alley.
At a point in the road where one gets a
last look at the city the Indians have a
praying place.

THE IXDIAX PRAYIXG PI.ACE; ABOVE CUZCO

This road is one of the principal high-
ways in Peru, and hundreds of Indians
pass up and down going in and out of
Cuzco daily. The view of Cuzco lying
below in the green valley is truly a beauti-
ful one, but it is something more than a
sense of beauty that makes the Indians
stop, and, with uncovered heads, some
kneeling and some standing, off'er a
prayer as they look toward their ]\Iecca.

It is noticeable that those Avho are on
a journey going away from Cuzco pray

for a longer time than those who are
approaching the city. Possibly they fear
the dangers of the roadside more than
those of the city streets.

Another Indian custom which adds a
picturesque touch to the roadsides be-
tween Cuzco and ]\Iachu Picchu is the
presence of quaint signs indicating what
is for sale in the Indian huts.

A small bunch of wheat or barley tied
on the end of a pole and stuck out in
front of the hut indicates that there is
cJiicha (a native corn beer) for sale
within. A bunch of flowers on the end
of a pole also has the same significance.

A green wreath means that there is
bread for sale, while a piece of white
cloth or white paper waving in the breeze
indicates that the wayfarer may here
purchase aguivdientc, a powerful white
rum made of cane juice and containing
a large percentage of raw alcohol.

It is sincerely to be regretted that more
Indians could not have been measured,
but as this work was entirely in charge
of the stirgeon of the expedition, Dr.
L. T. Nelson, and as his first duty was to
attend to the health of the members of
the expedition, the anthropological meas-
urements had to take second place. The
exigencies of the work necessitated his
spending,' a large part of his time where
there was little opportunity for making
anthropological measurements.

XO MEASUREMEXTS PERMITTED IX"
AREOUIPA

In Arequipa he found that local senti-
ment prevented the government from as-
sisting him. Arequipenos would resent
any action compelling an Indian to sub-
mit to measurements, even though the
subject were paid for his time. Further-
more, as practically the only pure-blooded
Indians now in Arequipa are transients
who come 'a. for commercial pvirposes,
driving their llama trains loaded with
produce, the merchants of Arequipa
wotild resent anything which might in-
terfere with business. These difficulties
made it impossible to secure any meas-
urements in Arequipa.

On the trip to Choqquequirau, where
the surgeon's presence was necessary,

• » ■* V r^ ' k*

i

•t it

c\ .iTx «\ r

MOUNT SAI.CAXTAV AND Til I- VAI.i: GI.ACIKK AT Tlli: IIKAD ui- TlIK ,.

This peak, one of the most beautiful in the Ande< Is nr.»h.i!>l\ :m onn fr«
level, and has never been ciin)h<«l or trianKul.ited. It \n
that we have hitherto been iinal)le to triaitKulnte it. Clon.i^ i
of the j^laticr. and tw«» niinntes after this fiirtnrr wan taken t

oped in (loiid. and iKithinv: nxtre than p. ' etini; HiimpsKk uitc luU oi U Uutiuk

stay in tl)c vieinitv (see jiai^es ;jf). 'H. , ».

56J

ti^ s

owing to the great risks of send-
ing the members of the expedi-
tion over a dangerous mountain
trail, it was necessary to cut the
equipment down to any such
surgical instruments as might be
demanded, and it was not possi-
ble to take along any of the
equipment for making anthro-
pometric measurements.

Finally, owing to the presence
of smallpox and an epidemic of
typhoid in Arma, Puquiura. and
the neighboring villages, the sur-
geon was obliged to stay with
the topographical party all the
time that they were working in
that region. Their work was
greatly hindered by adverse wea-
ther conditions, and so much val-
uable time was lost.

The extent of the smallpox
and typhoid fever epidemics pro-
hibited the surgeon from carry-
ing on anthropological w o r k
there, on account of the danger
of bringing the contagion to the
camp. To be sure, the white
members of the expedition had
been vaccinated, both for small-
pox and typhoid, by our medi-
cal adviser, Dr. H. S. Arnold, of
the Yale INIedlcal School, before
leaving this country : but it would
have been wrong to have had
them run unnecessary risks or
to have subjected to the danger
of contagion the muleteers, engi-
neering assistants, and the other
native members of the party who
'had not been so vaccinated.

IX

WEATHER Or.SERVATlOXS

From May 28, the day of our
departure from Panama, until
the arrival of the vessel off the
town of MoUendo, on ^wne 8, a
full series of weather observa-
tions was taken daily at the
hours of 8 a. m., 12 m., and 8
p. m. The data recorded cover
the following phenomena : Air
temperature ( dry-bulb thermom-
eter), temperature bv wet-bulb
thermometer, barometric pres-

564

sure, clouds, precipitation, wind,
sea. and surface temperature of
the ocean.

On the return voyage from
Mollendo to Panama a full series
of weather observations was
taken similar to that rer. .rde*!
when outward bound.

A complete series of weather
observations was taken at Machu
Picchu and during the cn»ss-sec-
tion map-making. Arrangements
were made with Mr. Burt Col-
lins, the manager of the Inca
Mining Company, and with Mr.
Claude liarber, of the Santa
Lucia mine, to undertake the es-
lablislimcnt of four meteorologi-
cal stations at widely ditlerent
elevations along the 71st merid-
ian west of Greenwich. One will
be at an elevation of nearly 14.-
000 feet, another at an elevation
<>f about 6.0(X) feet, another on
the edge of the (ireat Plains, and
still another on the River Madre
dc Dios.

Sel f-regislering barometers,
tlRTmometers. and rain gauges
have been supplied for these sta-
tions. Mercurial ban»meters anti
sling psychrometers have alM)
been i)rovi(led. Both Mr. Collins
and Mr. l»arber have agreed to
look after the maintenance of
the ^lalion- «*"• a iH!ri«»'l ..f Tiv.-
years.

The instrumental ciiuipnicni
for these stations was in •
loan from the llarvarti ( >b>v; ...
tory through the kimlness of
Prof. 1*. C. Pickering, and in
part due to the generositv of
Mrs. Alfred Mite'- 'V ..1. - .: . i
at our disjHJSid a ,
the purchase of instrunien

The results of the work .sluiuid

pn»vc most ilh^ * " '

ought to be of ;

in connect it »n with the

ti<ms made s<»ni<

the M' ' .ii i '

,.f the . ' ^^'

( )bservato: i

Pliulu by iliram Bingiiam
THE FIRST PETROGLYPHIC ROCK DISCOVERED NEAR CUZCO

At ]\laran30cc near Limatambo, on the trail from Mount Salcantay to Ciizco, a small
boulder was discovered covered with petroglyphs. The right-hand figure is seated near the
boulder (see text, page 544).

IMiiitu by llirain Jlins^liaiu
A NEARER VIEW OE THE PETROGLYPHS NEAR LIMATAMBO

A partial view of the ]\Iaranyocc boulder covered with petroglyphs. Their significance
is not known, and there is no tradition in the vicinity to account for their presence here.
The picture was taken by arranging the tripod so that the camera pointed almost directly
down. It is barely possi1)le that tliis rock, which is carved in a manner unlike any other
hitherto found in the Department of Cuzco, represents tlie story of an Indian raid from the
jungles of the Amazon into the heart of the land of the Incas.

;66

X

COLLFXTIOXS MADE BY THE EX-
PEDITION

Our collections have all safely
reached Xew Haven. The} c<jn-
sist in large part of the bones of
the people who built and lived
in ^lachu Picchu. of the p >ts-
herds, pots, and bronzes found
there, and of the gC(>logical, oste-
ological, and paleontological ma-
terial collected in the vicinity of
Cuzco, of geological specimens
from other jjarts of Peru, and
of 2,500 photographs taken with
the 3A Special and Xo. 4 Pana-
ram Kodaks.

In a broad geogra])hical sense
the results of Dr. Eaton's col-
lecting is one of the most im])()r-
tant and interesting features of
the expedition. In the vicinity
of Cuzco Dr. Eaton secured the
skeletons of probably 20 individ-
uals. At ^lachu Picchu more
than 60 individuals were exca-
vated, and at Choqquequirau ten.

With these ancient denizens of
southern Peru were found a
number oi l)rr)nze metal objects,
including ])ins. knives, forceps,
and some very attractive pieces
of pottery. Althotigh Dr. Eaton
was technically the osteologist of
the expedition, his work la\- in
a variety of fields.

Invertebrate fossils were col-
lected from tlie hills overlooking
the town of I'ayta, Peiu. and the
site of an ancient cemetery at
Pascasmayo was visited.

Vertebrate fossils were nl)tained from

THE S.\.\' I KANCISCO IM..\ZA : CUZCO

A coriuT of tlic Ciuco market. ihowiiiR vcndc!
vc'Ketalili'S .ukI firc-wood. Dr. ' the surm'^'U oi

thf cxprchtioii, took many pli<'t , iis of men aiul

women in tlic market-place and on the streets of Cuzco

( sfc ti'xt. panes 561. 562).

sedimentary

Onebrada.

gravels m the liuancaro

ACKNOWEEDCM ENTS

to
kind

the
of-

.\cknowledgments are due
United v^tates government for
fices in connection with securing re(|ui-
site privileges in Peru and for the loan,
on the part of the Army, of a delacluMi
service chest, which enabled us to have
the use of an abundant supi)ly of medi-
cines and of a comi>lctc set of surgical
instnnnents :

To tlie I'eruvian government for many
favors and courtesies, including the free

entry of all our e(|uipnK'nt and supplies,
the assignment io our party «»f nu-nilKTs
of the .\rmy whenever necessary. ;>'v'
tlie permission t<» bring all of our c« '
tions to this coinitrv.

To Mr. \V. I.. .\b>rkill .m.i ti
otVicials of the IVn.^ian ci»r|»«»raii
the Sonthern Railway of Peru for m
courtesies, inchnling the free use of ihen
railwav and t. ' h lines.

To the I're an«l Faculty of thr

rniversity of Cuzci*. \vh«» aitle*! n
nmncroiis ways and whose nwny cm
te^iies inclnclecl n • dv hov"" .l.t. .n
tertaininent at h- i the

but assistance in nmlinp intcixMuiK

.';67

^t'i^ y\

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I'uMtu by iiirain JJingham

A FAVORITE SPOT FOR FREEZING POTATOES: NEAR CHINCHEROS

One of the commonest vegetables sold in the market-place is called "chunu," potatoes
dried in the sun by day, frozen at night on selected spots of the high plateau, and pressed
the next morning bv the feet of hard-workinar Indians.

Photo by Hiram Bingham

SQUEEZING THE TUICE OUT OF THAWING POTATOES

A "chunu" maker treading the juice out of the piles of little potatoes that were spread
out at night and frozen. Potatoes so prepared keep well, but lose their flavor and are ex-
tremely insipid. The usual method of preparing them for the table is to grind them on a
stone mortar and use the powdered "chunu" to thicken soup.

568

J

Photo by lliram Hidk

A ROADS I DK SCKNK NKAK CII I XCHKROS

Looking toward the Unibamha Xalk-y from a point near Chinchcros. There arc almost
no wire fences in this country, the place of barbed wire beinjs' taken by thorny hedsc plant>
which inclnrh- cacti, thnrn bushes, and aj^aves. or century plants, as shown in the picture

THK J.-N«.l N IJ.K> *. \ M !• Nl \i< i» 'J' t « I* ^

( )win).; In the prrvalencc of an epidemic of smallpox and t\'phoi.. ... *...,.....;.. ■ ...
enjs'ineeritiK parly, that had the misfortune to lo«r it* tcnl by hrc. made i\% camp m a
cave said by the iiatives in have been an Inca prison. It was not vcr)' comfortaWe. Uil it

was dr\ and it was sanitarN.

569

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571

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I'(>TTi;i<\' |-k(>.\l .MAC 1 1 I' I'K (

jMjints whose wlicrcaboiits wa^ uoi gen-
erally known.

To Messrs. Cesar F.oinellini \- Co.. of
Cuzco, who for two years have acted
as our agents and have ])lace(l at our
disj)osal their excellent facilities for
handling the difficult situations which
arise in coiniection with the organization
and adnn'nistration of an exploring ex-
pedition, and all without charging us any
coninn'ssion or any rent, although we oc-
cupied a large room in their warehouses
as our headfjuarters for many months.

To Messrs. W. R. Crace (S: Co.. whose
luiique position in rtiiuian commerce
enable them to assist us in unnumhered
ways, heginm'ng with the proeuring of
f)ur supplies and ending with the carrv-
ing home of sonie of nur collections in
their steamers, without charge for any
of tln'ir services. It is uot too nnich to
say lli.il the work of the last two year*;
Could Hot ha\c been accomplishcfl as it

II I

>(o by lliram Uingluni

ha^ bien without the continual friendly
offices of this company, whose enlight-
ened policy in regar<l to assisting scien-
tific endeavor might well serve as an ex-
ample to other companies eiurnged in
carrying on foreign tra<le.

In cr^nclusion it gives me gi e.u e

to acknowledge a large debt of g:. :.. :c
to the ofVicials of Vale I'niversity and of
the National Cieographic S<Kicty for llieir
sympathetic co/iperati«»n chiring N»th the
preparation and the ttriM^riss ,,f ftw ry.

jH^lition

To them an<l to the nieintjcrs of ihc
expedition I should like to take t*
portunity to express my own \
thanks for the loyal siipp«»rt wl
been accorded mc from the Ivijinning
The end is not yet. for it v '" '
nmnths of patient and la!* . . ..^ »
to bring out the ultimate scientific rc^n'
of the IVruvian Kx|>cdilion of 1912.

573

4902 '1 22

\^'

RICKS COLLEGE

DAVID 0. McKAY LIBRARY

RLXBURG. IDAHO 834-40

RirKSCOUEGE

DAVID 0. McKAY LIBRARY

RUBURG, IDAHO 83440

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