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THE JOUENEY
AUGUSTUS RAYMOND MARGARY,
FROM SHANGHAE TO BHAMO, AND BACK TO MANWYNE.
FROM HIS JOURNALS AND LETTERS, WITH A BRIEF BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE:
TO WHICH IS ADDED A CONCLUDING CHAPTER.
By sir RUTHERFORD ALCOOK, K.C.B.
WITH A PORTRAIT ENGRAVED BY JEENS, AND A ROUTE MAP.
S^0nh0it : MACMILLAN AND CO.
1876.
JJ3
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
In January, 1875, the British mission, under Colonel Browne, appointed in the previous year by Lord Salisbury, at the instance of the Honourable Ashley Eden, Chief Commissioner of British Burmah, reached the city of Bhamo, the point of departure for the great overland trade route between India and China. The importance both politically and commercially of the re-opening of this route had long been acknowledged by the Indian Grovernment.
In 1868 a mission under Major Sladen had crossed the Burmese frontier and reached the city of Momien, in the Chinese province of Yunnan. It had returned from that point, unable to penetrate farther in con- sequence of the jealousy and opposition of both the Chinese and Mahommedan authorities, then struggling for mastery in Yunnan.
Early in 1874 this civil war, which had for nine- teen years desolated the splendid western provinces of China, came to an end by the utter overthrow of the Mahommedan rebels, and the authority of the emperor was restored up to the Burmese frontier. Thus a fresh opportunity arose, and was promptly seized on by our Indian Grovernment. Colonel Browne's mission was despatched with orders to cross
1361992
BIOGRAPHICAL PEEFAGE.
China, from Burmah to Shanghae, promises of safe conduct, with the necessary passports, having been previously obtained from the Pekin Government.*
In order to make it clear, however, to the man- darins of the western provinces that the mission belonged to the same nation which was so well known at the capital and the Treaty-ports of the Pacific Coast, the English minister at Pekin was instructed to send an officer across China to meet them on the western frontier. For this perilous and responsible duty Mr. Margary was selected, a young officer of great promise, belonging to the Consular Service, who, during some six years' residence in China, had thoroughly mastered the language, and made himself familiar with the habits and customs of the country.
He left Shanghae on the 23rd of August, and Hankow on the 4th of September, 1874. So much was known to the Indian Grovernment, and little more. As he himself describes it, he had plunged into darkness for six months. It was doubtful whether, even if he succeeded, he would be able to reach the frontier in time ; and, as a precaution, another consular officer, Mr. Clement Allan, who could take his place as interpreter to the mission, if necessary, had been sent round by sea to Rangoon.
The mission had scarcely commenced the prepara-
* The question whether fair and full explanations had been given to the Chinese Foreign Office as to the objects of the mission is discussed in the final chapter, which Sir Eutherford Alcock has kindly contributed, and need not be considered here.
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
tioiis for their final start from Bhamo, when the welcome news reached them at the Residency that Mr. Margary had accomplished his task, and was already at Manwyne. Two days later, on the 17th of January, he arrived at the Residency, and reported himself to Colonel Browne.
" It may be easily imagined," writes Dr. Anderson,* the eminent naturalist attached to the mission, which position he had also filled in that of 1868, " with what feelings we congratulated the first Englishman who had succeeded in traversing the trade route of the future, as he called it, and with what pleasant anticipations we heard of the accounts of his arduous but successful journey, and the reception accorded all along the line of route, crowned by the politeness shown by the dreaded Li-sich-tai," (the warrior Viceroy of Yunnan, who had extinguished the Mahommedan rebellion). " The astonishment and admiration of the Burmese was even greater. In their own minds they had never realised the existence of English officials in China, and now there appeared a veritable Englishman, speaking Chinese fluently, and versed in the use of chopsticks, and all other points of etiquette."
Accordingly, the inhabitants of Bhamo, from the woon (or governor) downwards, were anxious to see and welcome this Fetching Mang, or Pekin man- darin, who had so unexpectedly appeared amongst them. Entertainments in his honour were given,
* ' Mandalay to Momien,' p. 307.
a 2
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
and for the few remaining days before the mission started, he was the centre of attraction for tlie natives, while his cheerful and helpful nature gained him the cordial esteem and regard of Colonel Browne and his colleagues.
Looking back to that time, after the repulse of the mission. Dr. Anderson writes :* — " For my own part I desire to record the deep sympathy entertained for those who mourn the loss of one so beloved. Our brief intercourse lasted long enough to win for him the esteem and cordial friendship of us all ; and while we deplore the early loss to his country of the services of one whose past career and talents promised to raise him to high distinction, we lament his untimely loss as tbat of an old and dear friend."
Early in February the mission started from Bham6, and, on the morning of the 18th, arrived with their escort and train at the last guard house on Burmese territory, in the valley of Nampoung, a deep, narrow gorge, thickly covered with forest trees festooned with creepers, which separates Burmah from China. Here reports met them of danger ahead. The Kakh- yens, wild hill tribes, who occupy the wild frontier, were said to be mustering in force to oppose their progress, encouraged by the authorities at Seray, the first frontier town, and of Manwyne, the chief city of this part of the province of Yunnan. A council was held at which Margary made light of the rumours. He had come safely through the Kakhyen hills, alone,
* ' Manclalay to Momien,' p. 450.
BIOGEAPHICAL PREFACE.
he was known to the mandarins at Seray and Man- wjne. He would go on ahead, ascertain the truth, and send back instructions for their guidance. This offer was accepted, and he prepared to start. During the afternoon gongs and cymbals were heard along the hills on the Chinese side, and Kakhyens were seen peering down from amongst the trees, but nothing occurred to interrupt their last dinner, or their sitting afterwards, prolonged late into the night, at which the prospects of the mission were discussed. Early on the morning of the 19th of February Margary crossed the frontier, with no escort but his Chinese secretary and servants, who had been with him through his whole journey, and a few Burmese muleteers. The next morning brought letters from him, reporting all safe up to Seray. He had been well received there and had passed on to Manwyne. The mission followed slowly, reaching Seray on the 21st. No farther news from Margary ; but it was remarked that the Seray chief and all his men were armed, and more rumours came in of hostile prepara- tions, and danger. On the 22nd, in the early morn- ing, the storm broke. The mission camp was almost surrounded by armed bands, while letters from the Burmese agents at Manwyne to the chief in command of their escort told that Margary had been brutally murdered at Manwyne on the previous day. But for the staunchness of their Burmese escort — who resisted all offers of their assailants of heavy bribes if they would draw off and allow them onlv to kill the
yi BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
"foreign devils" — and the gallantry of the fifteen Sikhs, who formed their body-guard, the whole mission must have shared the fate of their comrade. As it was, after a hard day's fighting, they were able to draw ofi" in the evening and recross the frontier with all their baggage, having had only three men wounded. At Bhamo they eagerly sought for all particulars of the murder, but without much success. The most trustworthy account was that of a Burmese who had seen Margary walking about Manwyne, sometimes with Chinese, sometimes alone, on the morning of the 21st. This man reported that he had left the town on his pony to visit a hot spring at the invitation of some Chinese, who as soon as they were outside the town had knocked him off his pony and speared him. And so ended the second British mission from Burmah, and with it the life and career of one of a class of her sons of whom England has most reason to be proud in these days. As the years roll on, her special work in the world comes out more and more clearly. In spite of herself — often against her will — she has task after task set her in the wild neglected places of the earth, amongst savage or half-civilised races. Scarce a year passes that the work does not become more pressing;, and widen out in all directions. The call comes, now from the oldest haunts and homes of men — from India, from China, from Arabia, from the Malay peninsula — now from the wondrous islands of the Pacific — now from the vast unexplored regions of central or southern Africa. Sometimes it
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE. vii
is the conscious cry of the oppressed, " Come over and help us," sometimes the unconscious appeal of anarchy and evildoing in regions where we have planted our foot and from which w^e cannot draw it back ; for whatever the cause or form of the summons it is sure to have " vestigia nulla retrorsum " written over it. And the call, however urgent, however exacting, has rarely failed to bring out the right man, whether it were for missionary, or soldier, or merchant, or tra- veller, ready to spend himself for his country and his country's work ; simply, cheerily, unreservedly doing deeds the reading and hearing of which here in Eng- land make our pulses bound and our eyes moisten, without a thought that they were anything more than what every Englishman is called on to do in some form or another for the dear old home. How many such have stepped quietly out of the ranks in the last few years, and what a noble swarth they have cut in the world's tangled harvest work ? Unlike in their characters, their powers, the tasks that they were set to do, but alike in this, that they did it, one and all, with their might, and paid for it with their lives ; a bright bead roll of heroes, of whom their land may well be proud, the Pattisons, Mackenzies, Goodenoughs, Margarys, whose record goes far to redeem the sloth and selfishness of a generation weighted heavily with wealth and luxury, and is sounding again and again in the ears of our youth the grand old lesson, " a long life hath but few years, but a good name endureth for ever."
BIOGEAPHICAL PREFACE.
It is the object of this book to set before his countrymen, in his own words, the story of the crowning work of the last of this band. The journals and letters which tell it are not perfect. Here and there gaps will be found in the narrative which can- not now be filled up, as the materials necessary for this purpose, with other MS. relating to China, were in his luggage at Manwyne at the time of his murder, and have not been recovered. But these are of small account, and do not mar the vividness and charm of the simple story, so pathetic when read with a know- ledge of what was to be the end. But in order to enable readers to appreciate the journey across China from Shanghae to Bhamo, they should know some- thing more of the traveller than can be gathered from the history of the last six months of his life. The slight sketch of his early years which follows will, it is hoped, be sufficient for this purpose.
Augustus Raymond was the third son of Major- General Margary, R.E., and was born at Belgaum, in the Bombay Presidency, on the 26th of May, 1846. As a child he was remarkable for sweetness of disposition, courage and intelligence ; and his natural aptitude and perseverance were such, that (although he had no instructor but his mother in the tropical climate in which his first years were passed) when sent to school in France, at the age of nine, he took his place with ease among English boys of his own age. While in that country he lived with his grandfather and grandmother, whose loving
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
care was always gratefully acknowledged by him. After some time spent under the care of his uncle, the rector of Swafield, Norfolk, and in attendance at the North Walsham Grammar School, he was sent with three of his brothers to Brighton College, where he remained for upwards of seven years.
Here, as in later life, he made the most of his time, working hard and playing hard, and gaining the respect and love of masters and boys. " He dis- played at Brighton College," an old schoolfellow testifies, " the same noble qualities which distin- guished him in manhood. He was always in the front in whatever he did. I remember, for instance, that be was the finest swimmer in the school." The chief incident in his school life was a severe attack of brain fever, the consequence of a blow on the head received in a fight between the college and town, the effects of which he felt occasionally till the end of his life.
Alluding to this attack, Dr. Griffiths the head master writes to his parents : "It was a great comfort to me, when I heard of your son's sudden attack, to feel that he was a boy with whom I never had occasion to find fault, though doubtless he, like all of us, had faults, yet they never came to the surface, as in the case of so many others. His good abilities, his cheerful temper, his willingness to work, and his correct conduct, all combine to make him a favourite pupil. I believe masters and boys have joined heartily in our common prayer for his welfare, and there seems now a fair hope of his recovery."
BIOGEAPHICAL PEEFACE.
His letters to his parents at this period are full of the most ardent expressions of affection, and an anxious desire to make the most of his oppor- tunities, and to reward their care and affection by- yielding to his mother's influence, and following her counsels in the most minute particulars.
While at Brighton his mind was greatly set on a university career, but, with the thoughtfulness and care for others which characterised him through life, he never alluded to this wish without referring to the claims of his elder and younger brothers, whose interests, dear to him as his own, he continually laid before his parents, with a discriminating judgment and tenderness of affection not often met with in schoolboys of his age. A few extracts from his letters will be enough to illustrate these points^ in his character :
" Brighton College, 1862. " My dearest Mother, — I have two of your letters before me. . . . One of the letters made me so un- happy. I can't bear it, when I have done anything wrong, to think it makes you unhappy, and then I feel the distance between us, and the time it takes a letter to reach you ! Sometimes, when I have written a letter and sent it, I feel quite vexed with myself, and would give anything to recall it ; that is just my feel- ing with regard to my last letter, full of complaints and selfishness ; then, it will reach you, and before this letter reaches you to tell you how unhappy it makes me to think that I have written it, your answer will
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
be coming to me, which I shall get about two months from this time, I suppose, by which time I may have forgotten all about it. I find I cannot half express my feelings, but you will understand me, dearest mamma. I feel brimful of love and affection for you and dearest papa, and can't bear to displease you.
" We partook of the Holy Sacrament last Sunday, and everything has gone on very pleasantly lately, and T am getting on very comfortably in the first form now and enjoy the work. I wrote a letter just before starting for Swafield to you, and one while at Swafield, that] you might get letters by two mails successively, and I hope Jack has written. I enjoyed my visit to Swafield as much as I possibly could, but had I known the extra expense it caused you I should not have been quite so happy.
" I enjoyed my day in London not only pretty. well
(when Aunt C was so soon to leave England) but
very much. I hope the letter you were expecting told you more than my return to Brighton only, for I try to give as much news as I can. I went to Miss Roberts' yesterday to see my little sisters, but found
them all out except little C . She told me they
were very happy and liked their schoolfellows, and that everyone was very kind to them.
" I have been three times, but found E out
each time. Aunt C will be able perhaps to tell
you more about them than I can. As to my brothers, gets on very well, better than , who is, I
BIOGRAPHICAL PKEFAOE.
am afraid, rather inclined to be idle, but I will do my best to keep liim up to the mark."
The Jack alluded to in this letter was his elder brother, John Louis, who afterwards passed success- fully through Sandhurst and was posted to the 105th regiment, which he joined in 1864. He died at Dinapore, of typhoid fever, in January 1867.
" Eeading, 1863.
" My dearest Father, — I was so glad to see your handwriting when I received a letter last mail, as it is long since I had one from you. Many thanks for writing so kindly. You cannot think how much happier it makes me, and invigorated (sic) to do better ; whereas if there had been a reproach or dis- approval of anything I had done it would instantly have thrown a damp over my spirits, not to be got
rid of in a hurry, and so I believe it is with ■ . I
grieve to see him complaining, but pray bear with him (forgive my saying so to you) and he must soon see his faults and will give up all murmuring and
be sorry for any undutifulness. worked very
hard last quarter, I think, and has evidently done much better in the examinations. I think he was top of the form in one or two things, and very fairly up in others ; but then again in one or two subjects he was nearly bottom, which of course pulled him down considerably in a general average order. Both of them will certainly be put into the third form, and I
have to say with the greatest pleasure that A
has won another prize for French. I was fifth, but
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
I have no chance of beating the four ahead of me. I
am spending my vacation at the R 's, at Reading",
in company with Jack, whom I had not seen since Christmas. The house is crammed full of visitors,
and we are a thoroughly merry happy party, A •
and A were to have gone to Swafield for the
holidays, as they ought to have a thorough changes but, to our great disappointment, they were prevented going by scarlet fever, which broke out next door to Uncle John's.
"When I forwarded the pieces you inclosed for
Aunt E , I took the opportunity of asking Uncle
P if they could have my brothers now, as he had
asked them before, but without fixing any time. I think he will have them if he possibly can.
" I suppose the best way for me to learn good composition is to read some good writer like Lord Macaulay. I will devote myself to this."
« Brighton College, 1863. " My DARLiiSTG Mother, — I have just been to see our
dear sisters. They are well and very happy. E
was engaged and did not appear, but they said she was in high spirits. They tell me she plays very
well for a child of her age. 0 has the sweetest
disposition imaginable. is not very well to- day ; he is a good fellow, and works very well.
has such a lively nature that his attention gets drawn off study very soon. I am so anxious that neither of them should waste a bit of time at college."
xiv BIOGEAPHICAL PREFACE.
This anxiety about his younger brothers is a leading feature in these boyish letters, and grows stronger when his elder brother is about to leave. He begs his mother to write to them, urging them to work, and to listen to his advice, for he shall now feel himself responsible for keeping them steady. But the office of mentor is one which he only accepts as a duty, and with misgivings.
Thus he writes at this time, " I do not know whether I am right in speaking my mind about my brothers, for I have plenty of faults myself. I wish Jack or somebody would tell you all about me.
"■ Please do not scold my brothers. Jack is very anxious to pass his examination for Sandhurst. I shall miss him very much when he does go, for he has always been a kind brother to me. We have scarcely ever quarrelled since we came Viere. His great fault is hastiness, and many a time he has got into trouble through it ; but I have noticed a great change in him, and I think he has a great deal of
common sense. Uncle A has invited me for
Christmas, and I have no doubt I shall enjoy myself exceedingly, except that I shall be so anxious to hear if Jack passes."
After the return of his parents from India, Mr. Margary resided with them in London, and attended lectures at University College. His wish for an academical career seemed likely to be realised, when he received a nomination from his relative, Mr. Austen Layard, Her Majesty's present minister
BIOGKAPHICAL PEEFACE. xv
at Madrid, to compete for a student interpretership in China. Of this he immediately availed himself, and, after three failures, passed a successful exami- nation, and was sent to China on the 20th of March, 1867. He was now in his twenty-first year, but retaining the freshness and brightness of his boyhood ; in fact, his animal spirits seem to have grown stronger as his character settled. At school the sense of responsibility which weighed on him, in consequence of the absence of his father and mother in India, made him thoughtful and serious beyond his years. But now that he is fairly started in life, with a clearly marked career before him, and the confidence which is born of confirmed habits of hard work, and a well trained intellect to enable him to make the best of it, his natural joyousness seems to have burst out, and coloured not only his own life, but the life of all around him. Indeed, the special charm of his own narrative, as given in the letters and journals, consists in this joyousness, and in the splendid self reliance — wholly free from self con- sciousness and from self-seeking — with which he meets and overcomes all dangers and difficulties. Some- times, indeed, he is half ashamed of himself, and inclined to make excuses for these high spirits, which, as it were, force him to take the lead in fun and adventure of all kinds. He doubts whether they may not be a stumbling-block to his companions, whether he may not be doing them harm, by letting himself loose ; but concludes characteristically enough
xvi BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
that he is "too deeply attached to the loving principles of the Gospel to be an ascetic." And so he goes on his way rejoicing, with a thorough enjoyment of nature, society, adventure, good living, and hard work, which carries us along with him, and makes his narrative the healthiest kind of reading. Indeed, but for this happy temperament he could never have got through his great journey. With it, he can press steadily on even when lying, scarcely able to move, in the tiny cabin of his boat, struck down by " pleurisy, rheu- matism, indigestion, very bad neuralgia, toothache, and a lot more," with the thermometer at 96°, and no European within 1000 miles, and enjpy intensely in the intervals of pain the glorious scenery through which he is passing.
But his high spirits never interfered with \York. Soon after his arrival at Pekin he obtained a reward for rapid proficiency in the Chinese language, his diligent study of which, and of the habits and pre- judices of the people, gave him in after years his peculiar power of managing and understanding mandarins and chair-bearers with equal success.
In these early days he was accustomed to cure his occasional fits of home sickness by a recipe at which he often used to laugh while speaking of it. Retiring as far as possible out of hearing of his species, he sang all his old songs at the top of his voice, winding up with " God save the Queen." Having thus exorcised the demon, and reminded himself that he was serving his queen and coimtry.
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
he would return to his companions and his studies in his usual happy temper.
It may be added here, that on two occasions in the course of his career in China, he received offers of employment at a salary at least double what he was getting from Grovernment, which he declined, from the feeling that he would rather serve his country as a poor man than make a fortune in any other service. For his own private interests were always last in his thoughts. Indeed, the advancement and success which his good conduct and ability brought surely and quickly to his feet seemed only to quicken his desire to use time, and means, and influence freely for the help of those less able or fortunate than himself; and many a struggler breaking down in life's race owed new hope and courage to his aid and counsel. In fact, his life has been well described as " full from first to last of a devotion to duty, and of delight in serving his Lord through serving the brethren : a power of ready sympathy with every phase of human joy or sorrow, which gained him so rich a portion of what he coveted most on earth, the love and approbation of good men and women."
He remained as a student and attached to the legation at Pekin until 1870, when he was de- spatched to take charge of the Consulate in the island of Formosa, where he remained for upwards of a year, residing chiefly at Tamsuy and Kelung, but making expeditions to other parts of the island. While here he added botany and geology to his
b
xviii BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
studies, finding progress in the former much the easier in Formosa. For, while the Chinese highly approved of foreigners gathering flowers and plants, they looked with the keenest suspicion and jealousy on the collection of minerals or fossils, and the use of a geologist's hammer, and would dog the steps and watch narrowly the proceedings of any person so equipped.
When at Kelung, he and his friend, Mr. Dodd, a British merchant there, rescued forty-two lives from shipwreck during a violent typhoon, on the 9th of August, 1871, for which both of them received the medal of the Royal Humane Society, and were honoured by the Queen with the decoration of the Albert medal of 1st class. In 1872, he re- visited England, and took part in a discussion on Fomaosa, at a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, of which he became a member, and returned to China, via North America and Japan, arriving at Shanghae in September, 1873.
Shortly after reaching Shanghae, he was sent to the northern port of Chefoo ; to take charge of the Consulate there. Here his genial and sociable dis- position led him to promote many amusements and to join heartily in all the social entertainments in the small community, to promote kindly intercourse amongst its various members of different nationalities, and to while away the tedium of the winter months in a port almost isolated during that season. But here again, as all through his life, we find higher motives
BIOGEAPHICAL PREFACE. six
than selfish enjoyment at work ; and his letters show that his first object in all his intercourse with society was to promote general harmony and goodwill, and to leave no opening for the petty misunderstandings which often arise in small and isolated communities. ■
From Chefoo he was transferred to Shanghae, in April 1874, and in August received instructions from H.B.M.'s minister at Pekin to proceed at once through the vast south-western provinces of China, to await at one of the passes on the frontier of Yunnan the arrival of Colonel Browne's mission, to which he was to act as interpreter and guide through China, as already stated.
His orders were, to start at once, and secretly, and were obeyed with his usual promptness and exactness, though he felt keenly having to leave on such a journey without being allowed even to say good-bye to his friends ; for he was under no delu- sions as to its danger. No one knew better the intense dislike of the Chinese to any such extension of the rights of foreigners in the interior and western provinces as the mission foreshadowed. And so hd writes to his mother on the eve of starting : " It is a long and to a certain extent a perilous journey — I can't disguise that fact, and that for three months I shall be beyond the reach of all news from the outer world." But he will not let her dwell on this side of the picture, and adds directly, " You must picture me trudging on through strange cities, stared at by pig-tailed mobs. At times sitting in eastern etiquette with native governors and vice-
XX 16I0GRAPHICAL PREFACE.
roys, and lastly you may look at the map, and fancy you see a solitary European, standing above the last pass, and anxiously gazing through his binoculars for the advent of Indian helmets from the west. You know, dearest, I have trust in God and fear nothing. Best love to all.' — Your own loving Gus." And again to the lady to whom most of his letters had been addressed since his return from England : — " Is it not a splendid mission ? What wonderful things I shall see ! I shall hope to have grand sport in the forests and mountains, which teem with wild life. It is impossible to say when you may hear from me. I shall try and make use of the native post, which is a very efficient service, but how far it may be safe for foreign correspondence remains to be proved. It may be that not a word may be heai^d of me for the whole time, in which case all sorts of rumours may arise as to my fate. Let me beg of you not to believe one ; rest assured I will make my way there and back, by God's help, as safe as a trivet."
And in this temper he pressed steadily on, a lonely, sorely-tried man, bent only on doing his duty to the last and getting his work through. And so to him — as surely to all such — came the highest strength and power according to his need. " One disease after another attacked me," he writes to his uncle, the Rev. J. Layard, when he had been more than two months on his road, " with relentless rapidity ; even dysentery came to add its terrors to my loneliness, and reduced me to a skeleton. All my pride of flesh and muscle speedily vanished
BIOGRAPHICAL PREFACE.
beneath its dire influence ; but, thank God, all this sufiering was invaluable in curing me of a far greater disease. In the midst of my suffering I was drawn nearer to God, and at last, like Christian, the load rolled off my back, and I was another man. I hope you will not think me immediately full of conceit and vanity, and that I think myself an established Christian, but I hope when I get back, please God, to prove the armour I have put on in private, and don't yet know the strength and en- durance of. You will probably smile, but it is a fact that I judge distance entirely by the dear old road from Swafield to North Walsham" (his uncle's rec- tory, where he had spent two years of his boyhood), " and every Scotch fir on the roadside takes me back to the time when poor Jack and I searched for tiny shoots under the old oak with as much zeal as an archaeologist for coins and buried remains."
But it is time that the letters and journals were left to tell their own tale, in the appreciation of which it is hoped the slight and imperfect sketch here given will be helpful to readers. It will enable them at any rate to understand the circum- stances under which they were written. The first series are from the neighbourhood of Pekin, while he was attached to the British Consulate there as a student.
ITINERARY.
Date and Hour of Arrival.
Sept. 4 5
6
7
8
9
11
20 21
22
}) 23
»
24 25
27 28
29
30
Oct.
1
•>
3.30 P.M.
2 P.M.
Evening
12.30
Evening
Evening
Evening
Place.
Evening Evening
Evening
11 A.M.
3.30 P.M.
6 P.M.
Evening
3 P.M. 2 P.M.
Evening Evening Evening
. . ■ • '^^
Hankow :
Wu-ch'ang
Chin-k^ou
Tung-kua-nao .
P'ai Chou
Hsiao-hua-pai . Hu-hsin Chou
Lu-ch^i-Vou
Hsin-t'i
Lo-shan .. .....:....:.l".,
[J_|^ Chiin-shan Nan-chai
Ni-hsin-t'ang
Yin-ho Hsiang
■||^jLung-yang Hsien.
Liao-ya-tsui
Shih-ma P^u
'ZWph'aing-ie Fu.
Ta-ch'i-k'ou
i/jN'iyuiT'ao-yuen Hsien
ffi.^SPai-ma Tu
Shui-ch^i
(Small village.) (Small village.)
Distance (in li) from previous place.
20
[ch'ang.) 105 (from Wu- 45 45 60 60 60 45
180
60
40
[Hsiang. 70 from Yin-ho 40 20 20 70 20 5
35
ITINERARY.
xxiii
Date and Hour of Arrival.
Place.
Oct.
27 28 29
J)
30
31
Nov.
1
2
3
4
5
8
9
10
11
j>
12
13
14
15
16
Evening
10 A.M.
7 P.M.
5 P.M.
7 A.M.
5 P.M.
Evening
6 P.M.
6 P.M.
J^iCh'en-cliou Fu
^^
/^7M jLu-cFi -Pu-shih
^^^- Ch^en-chi Hsien
WiS^Chen-yuen Fu
ji^aA
Shih-ping Hsien..
Hsin-chou Ta-feng-tung
I /El
^\
.Hi
WM |JL|
m
Ch'ing-p'ing Hsien
Kuei-ting Hsien
Lung-li Hsien
Kuei-yang Fu
Ch'ing-chen Hsien Ch^ing-ch^i Hsien
An-shun Fu
Chen-ning Chou... Huang-kuo-su
Lang-tai T'ing
Me-k'ou
Hua-king
Distance (in li) from previous place.
70
12
30
45 75
69
62
80
60
25
50
60
Short stage.
35
ITINERARY.
Date and Hour of Arrival.
Nov. 17 18 19 20 21 22
>>
23
24
>»
25 26 27
Dec.
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
>>
9
10
11
Noon
Place.
!*«
H
fi*
mm
mm WIS®
Yang-shun Fu-an T'ing
P^ing-i Hsien .
Pai-shui
Hai-tzii P^u
Chan-i Chou Ma-lung Chou
Pai-tzu P'u
I-lung Ssu
Yang-lin
Pan-ch^iao
Yun-nan Fu
Distance (in 11) from previous place.
Four more stage
Pi-chi K^ou
An-ning Chou
Lao ya Kuan Lu-feng Hsien .
She-tzii
Kuang-t^ungHsien
Yao-chan
Ch^u-hsiung Fu Chen-nan Chou..
Sha-ch'iao
Lien-p^eng
s to Ta-li Fu.
40
[Chou.
Halfway Chan-i
40 40
75
[lin.
105 from Yang-
35
40
70 75 90
95 35 95
o
Aic.rsTiis KAYJioNi) .maii(;aiiy
// A-
/ V
'<5>
MAEGAEY'S JOUENBY.
To his uncle, the Kev. J. Layard.
Limg Wang Sang, June Wth, 1868. — I am now, as perhaps you know, at the hills, living in a de- lightful temple with two friends. ... I came out early in May, and have got on well in Chinese during the interval. This is a glorious place to work. Although there are seven of us out here, distributed in three temples, we keep apart in order to work, each in our own rooms, and only meet at meal times. I work, on the average, about seven hours a day, and it is wonderful that one can do it on one subject alone. We expect the chief and his family out in a few days. What with picnics in the evenings, and little soirees, we shall probably spend a delightful summer. But work at Chinese will not be hindered, as it is somewhat in the winter, for just now the sun prevents anything else until 6 p.m., when we go out for a stroll about the valley, which is very pretty, full of trees and little gorges. Occasionally somebody drops in from the city. One day our French friends arrived, and carried us off with them
B
MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
to a temple for which they are negotiating. It was a truly wonderful spot on the side of the hills, from its commanding position and the forest of trees with which it was surrounded.
The temple was a sort of head monastery, or school for Buddhist priests, who can he known everywhere by their shaven heads. The temples are everywhere mere ordinary rooms filled with innu- merable hideous gods. The missionaries have a fearful task in attempting to convert the Chinese. The difficulty of the language is an obstacle, and the simplicity of their service is less likely to attract the sensuous Chinese than the magnificent cathedrals and gorgeous ritual of the Roman Catholics. Some of the Roman missionaries deserve success. They dress in the native costume, and travel about the country for years and years, putting up with Chinese dirt and Chinese food in a way which, to a Euro- pean, must be a sort of martyrdom. We want, as missionaries, educated gentlemen, free from narrow- mindedness, and possessing a bearing which will command respect from foreigners. There are some such amongst our missionaries.
You wish to know about our Sundays, and I will tell you, though it may pain you ; but if you look at it from a broad point of view, I think you will agree that it is not a very dark picture. Though there is a general sense of keeping the Sabbath Day holy, it is more thought of as a day of rest and en- joyment. No scruples prevent us from taking a
LUNG WANG SANG.
ride, or making a picnic, or skating. We have a chapel service every Sunday morning, and most of the people in the Legation go regularly ; and, for months past, Sundays have been spent very properly and quietly. Fellows spend the afternoon walking on the wall, or sitting about smoking, or writing letters. They never give a card party or wine on Sunday.
I know enough of my own wickedness to make anything like a religious confession painful to me, but I don't mind telling you that I try to live straight, and trust in Grod for Jesus' sake ; that we are as good as I could wish is too much to say, there is still much to be done.
Poor old C is gone ! I remember him better
than you think, and am really awfully sorry not to see him again. I could not help thinking of Horace's lines :
" Vixere fortes ante Agamemnona Multi ; sed omnes illacrymabiles Urgentur ignotique louga Nocte, carent quia vate sacro."
I read my old fa^vourite, and Homer, now and then, and am glad to find I do not forget much. AVe were well grounded in grammar at Brighton College, for which I shall always be grateful to Mr. Griffiths.
To his Parents. August 18M, 1868. — We have had an immense deal
E 2
MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
of rain, and with it a very strange kind of tlmnder- storm, or rather wind and Hghtning storm ; I never saw or read of anything like them. If you can fancy a wide belt of very vivid and incessantly flashing lightning, driving furiously before it wind and rain, I think you can form an idea of it. The lightning always appears low down on the horizon, and is ac- companied by scarcely any thunder at all. We were sitting at dessert in our mess-room in Pekin, last Tuesday, about eight o'clock, when the first of these storms that I had seen burst upon us. The only warning it gave was the sudden bursting open of doors and windows ; then came a furious wind, followed by equally furious rain ; and all this whipped in l)y the extraordinary lightning, which gave me the idea of a flight of huge eagles flashing fire with ea;Ch sweep of their wings. We rode into Pekin on Monday, and back on Wednesday morning ; that one night's storm had blown down trees right and left, and drenched the country ; the tall millet stalks were bent down to the ground, and the roads, which are merely troughs cut through fields and well banked on each side, were simply converted into canals ; the water actually running two feet deep. The mud, in some places, was impassable, and I found myself in a fix in one place. I turned off to go up the pass, which is very stony, and not liking to take my pony where he ran a risk of breaking his knees, I determined to follow the road, and for about two miles found good ground on the top of the
LUNG WANG SANG.
bank ; but, as usual, within half a mile, and in sight of the temple, I came to a dead lock. The road was a broad sheet of deep soft mud, and two trees lay across it. Once I had to jump across a ditch with mud on both sides, and my noble pony jumped
after me. I found 0 had got in a little before
me, after a difficult ride.
August l^th. — I sent in a note to ask after mail letters to-day by my teacher, who has gone in on Imperial business. We often have considerable amusement with our three teachers. After finishing a certain amount of reading, we go out into the terrace and talk or j)lay at chess (Chinese), in which we often hold our own. My teacher. Wen, is a very little
man, but very high-bred and very clever. . . S 's
friend is the character of the three. Being a married man, and older than the other two, he invariably asserts his superiority, much to our amusement. He is exceedingly polite. You would be amused to see how precise we all are with each other. He invariably smokes our cheroots, and is altogether very indepen- dent. His name is Tau. The first time I saw him he asked me how old I was at once, for it is polite in China to ask any number of questions about a man's family, condition, etc. It is extraordinary how pug- nacious the Tientsin men are. The Pekinese seldom
fight ; but 0 -'s servant and our groom are both
natives of that place, and are constantly fighting with
some one or other, and S and I have often had
to rush out and part them, trying to look excessively
MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
angry, though it is difficult to refrain from laughing when one sees a couple of fellows, each hauling away at the other's pig-tail. We rode over to a Tavist temple, yesterday, to look at a natural hot spring, believing, too, though wrongly, that we should find a swimming-bath. The priest met us at the door, and, to my surprise, shook hands with us in a most polite and gentle manner, like a polished gentleman.
Returning home, we took several jumps, until S 's
pony stopped on the brink of a ditch, put his head
down, and walked backwards, depositing poor S
in the water up to his neck. However, he soon got on again, and his wet clothes helped him to stick on for the rest of the ride. We laughed a bit.
August 22nd. — I must now give you an account of an exciting adventure. Yesterday, about three o'clock, a very bright sky was suddenly overcast, and such a torrent of rain came pouring down, and continued till night, as I have never seen. In one hour the courtyard behind was flooded fully a foot deep. In a few minutes it would have burst
into our room. S and I stripped ourselves of
everything and put on our mackintoshes and rushed out. To tear up some bricks would soon relieve us of a good deal of water by making a way out for it ; and I went off to our teachers' quarters, where I found priest, teachers, and servants in a terrible plight. All their rooms were flooded below, and through the ceiling. I pointed out a drain which was stopped up, and made them clear it. While thus engaged we
LUNG WANG SANG.
were too deafened by the storm to hear shrieks and cries for help that were heing raised outside the temple. An excited Chinaman rushed up, and tried to make us understand something ; but he spoke so fast, that it was utterly hopeless to catch his meaning, until I heard the words " two foreigners," when off we went like arrows, through the temple, down the steps, across the road, heedless of rough stones, with our naked feet, until, guided by the shouts, we went about a hundred yards to what in the morning had been a road, but was now a deep, rushing mountain- torrent, and, on the opposite bank, stood B ,
shouting, " Brandy, for Heaven's sake, Gr is
fainting."
I flew back, filled a flask, and was in the torrent up to my waist before I knew its force, but was
stopped in time by B , to whom I threw the flask.
It was almost dark, and for some little time he could not find it, but, when he had got hold of it, he rushed
with it into a little hut, where G was almost,
indeed, as nearly as possible, done. Meanwhile, we had torn our awning ropes down, and I had been trying for five minutes to throw it across, when S shouted out that the torrent was more prac- ticable above, where was, most fortunately, a tree, to
which our servants tied the rope. S dashed
nobly in with the other end, and, after a severe struggle, gained the opposite bank. I stood up to
my waist, holding the rope next to him ; G then
seized the rope, and he and S plunged in, and in
MARGAKY'S JOURNEY.
a moment were carried out in a semi-circle, G-
completely immersed for a few moments. While hauling away for very life, I felt that one of them must go, but they held on nobly, and we pulled them
in with a shout. S then repeated his feat, and
we brought B across in the same way, he all
the while rolling over and over like a log. Both
of them were fearfully exhausted, and G we put
to bed. Fortunately it was our dinner hour, and everything was ready for them, and when they were refreshed they recounted their adventures.
About four miles from this, they were overtaken by the rain, and in less than half-an-hour their ponies were up to their knees in water. They were above three hours getting across the last bit of their ride, and it was by a miracle they escaped. There was not a square foot of sound ground the whole way, and they had to flounder through mud up to their knees. The roads, from their nature, were soon converted into rushing torrents, strong enough to carry away oxen like feathers. At one place they saw an ox being hurled away, his head every now and then appear- ing above the water. At last they reached a house, and, though standing up to their knees in water, the inmates would not give them shelter, thinking they were robbers. A half idiot boy at last came out, and boldly offered to take them to a good road and a ford. But at this ford the boy and the horses were simply carried away by the force of the current, and they never expected to see them again. The boy
LUNG WANG SANG.
was fortunately thrown on to a bank, where three streams met, and there he sat holding the rein of one pony which was in the water, and there B — — and
Gr were obliged to abandon him. They shouted
to him but he answered not a word. The only hope was that he would sit there all night, and so he did, and brought the ponies back safe in the morning.
B • and G then continued their way, and
pulled each other through three streams up to their necks in water. When they reached a hut below us here, they shouted for help, and were there for nearly an hour, shivering, exhausted, and half frantic, before
their, cries were heard. G at one time threw off
everything, and plunged in to swim across, but was
pulled back by B in the nick of time. At last
we came to the rescue, and brought them through all right.
The little hut in which they took refuge was full of Chinese huddled together; one of them, a
woman, was washed away and drowned. S
had nothing on, and I only a mackintosh, so we were not hindered or impeded, and were ready to help.
0 ably assisted from the bank, and once went
in with all his clothes on. Our servants behaved well, and were rewarded. I shall not forget the adventure, as it has cost me more than I can express in words. My ring is lost ! the twist of the rope wrenched it off my finger. But it was lost to save two lives, and I must fain be proud of my loss.
Numbers of men searched for it next morning in
10 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
vain. Sic transit gloria ! B was exceedingly
sorry for my loss, and expresses his intention of giving me a ring to keep in memory of this event.* He was carrying desj)atches to his chief, at a temple about five miles from this, and we were not a little amused when he produced their pulp from his boots.
Gc was also the bearer of letters to 0 and
S , which, fortunately for them, had not been
put into his riding boots, and, therefore, were dried
and deciphered. B proceeded next morning on
a donkey. The four horses came hack in a sorry plight, but soon got quite right again, and the boy was well rewarded, in fact, a great many people were rewarded, and our heroes did not get off too
cheaply. Next day, G wished to proceed to the
temple where our other fellow-students are staying, being invited to a feast given by W , in com- memoration of his birthday, but though all the water had run away, the roads were too soft, the
clouds too threatening, and G and his horse too
weak to attempt the journey. We had a jolly day here, for the pool was full of water, and clear, so that we had a glorious bathe, and swim in it, and the daily repetition of it adds much to our pleasure.
Augyst 11th. — We all four rode over to the temple of Ta-pei-su, yesterday morning early ; the distance was about twelve miles, and I never enjoyed a ride
• 'J'hc ring promised as a memento of the event above recorded was given, and was much prized and always worn by its owner.
LUNG WANG SANG. 11
more. We had to go round to the other side of the hills behind ns, and crossed several pretty little valleys, which ran up from the plain, and contained temples perched among trees. The valley we sought was longer and prettier than all, with a succession of temples, perched one above another, and a moun- tain brook dashing down between them. This is a favourite valley, and nearly all the temples were taken by members of the different European com- munities. Here was Sir Rutherford Alcock's, and,
close by, another, in which W. H and 0. B
were staying ; two students were their guests for a week, and another was staying with Sir Rutherford, so we were nearly all together at the moment, there being only four left in the Legation, and they will get their turn at the hills. We found them all in a high state of jollity. They had had a grand dinner the day before, and, upon my word, they gave us one that night that would have done credit to Verrey's. 0. B can afford to be a little extrava- gant, for his knowledge of chemistry has gained him a capital appointment, if any of us had studied that noble science, we might have got it. We were hos- pitably put up for the night, and called, as was our duty, on the chief, and the ladies. They were much interested in the history of our adventures, and we had a long and pleasant visit. We rode back to our own temple early this morning, having thoroughly
enjoyed our visit. S and I return to Pekin on
Saturday, having enjoyed ourselves much in this
12 MAKGAEY'S JOUENEY.
place, improved greatly in health, and made a good start in Chinese. The rain has filled the lakes and canals in the city, which have lain dry for about five years, and have been an eyesore ; so the huge city will be much improved. Since yesterday every cloud has vanished, and the country is just getting dry again. Carts are actually passing us.
To tlie Eev. J. Layard.
Lim(/ Wang Sang, September 1st. — Everyone but
F has gone into Pekin, some for good, some for
pleasure, all to get their month's wages : as my friend
E will bring my pay for me, I preferred
remaining to work as hard as possible, as the examination is very near.
In answer to my invitation to come up to. my
temple and dine with me, F writes to say
that, being a determined sportsman, he is unable to pass by the 1st of September without seeking par- tridges, and he is off on a day's shooting. So solus ego. A short time since, as I was reading aloud, a party of five Chinese passed by, '■'■ kuanging ,'' by which we mean site, or sight-seeing. The former is the more appropriate as applied to Chinamen. On their return, I asked them in with all the politeness I could muster. I saw at a glance that they were above the common herd, but as Chinamen never make any display in mufti, and yet are very punctilious, I had great difficulty in determining which was the right person to address, and, of course,
FORMOSA. 13
j^itched upon the wrong one. However, we had a capital conversation for about an hour, and by asking close questions, which is the most polite thing to do, I determined their several grades. Two of them were members of the Imperial family. This body is so large, that they have a yamen of their own, and all the members are distinguished by a yellow girdle. When the relationship gets very remote, they are transferred to the class of red girdles, and then they sink into oblivion. My friend wore only a very narrow yellow belt like a lady's. Not having seen one, and expecting to see a sash, I never noticed his rank. With these two was a distinguished literatus, a meuiber of the Hanlin, or Forest of Pencils^ the highest literary degree.
[The following extracts from Mr. Margary's journals and letters were written during his first official appointment to Formosa, mentioned in the introductory sketch.]
Formosa^ 1871. — During the last two or three years, public attention has been drawn with un- wonted attraction towards China, but it seems to require events of a very extraordinary or very startling character to fix that attention with any steady interest. It might seem that tbe enormous European demand for tea and silk would be suffi- cient to inspire some regard for the country of their
14 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
source ; that the activity of trade in the direction of China, the great prosperity of Cahfornia, the running of the fine Pacific mail steamers from thence to Shanghae and Hong Kong, and the activity of the Russians ever hovering over China, and improving their fine settlement in the Amur, would have been sufiScient facts to rouse the House of Commons ; but, in fact, it requires an unintelligible Chinese mission, followed by a Tientsin massacre, which proved its hollowness, to raise public interest. Unfortunately the sad EurojDean war soon obliterated the effect, and future troubles may be needed to force people to think of the importance of the settlements here, at Hong Kong, Shanghae, and Hankow.
Democracies have always shown a disregard for distant interests, and there are visible signs, even now, that British commerce will suffer sooner or later from these tendencies, and the power of economical ministers increased at the expense of the efficiency of the public services abroad.
In casting about for objects of retrenchment, a death-blow is being aimed at the mercantile ex- istence of Formosa. The island is obscure and little known. Its trade is small, and employs a mere handful of British merchants, but a firm and well-supported protest has been raised against so unwise a measure, and it begins to appear that the trade, specially at the north of the island, owed its existence and first yearly development to a very remarkable instance of British pluck and perse-
FORMOSA. 15
verance. The pioneers are men who have laid aside comfort and the luxuries of civilised life to rescue this beautiful island from undeserved neglect, and who have passed through years of unprofitable toil to dawning prosperity. In one case they have created the cultivation and reputation of a new and highly-prized tea, and now a decree goes forth to crush them.
I have a vivid recollection of the difficulty I experienced long ago on leaving England in getting information about China. Most people knew the names of the three great cities, but it would have put the good people of Shanghae very considerably out of conceit with themselves, to have been told that very few knew even of their existence as a community.
And yet Shanghae is as wonderful a place as Hong Kong or Singapore.
Now Formosa is as little known to people on the mainland, at least at the more northern ports. Such foreign interest as there is in Formosa is confined to two ports, one at each end of the island, and com- pletely isolated from each other by some two hundred miles of difficult road, path, I ought rather to say, for I doubt if civilisation is suffi- ciently advanced along any part of the route to have made anything worthy the name of a road. These two harbours are the same places which the unfortunate Dutch occupied two hundred and fifty years ago, and where they built massive forts,
16 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
which stand to this day, and one of which, viz., that of Tamsuy, in the north, has been very gro- tesquely adapted to the uses of H.M. consulate. The story of the Dutch occupation is a sad one, and well illustrates the treacherous character of Chinese diplomacy.
Formosa was in those days completely in the hands of the aborigines, but much coveted by the Chinese.
The Dutch, following in the wake of the Por- tuguese, were hindered by the jealous policy of the latter from gaining any equal concessions from the Chinese Government of that day, which was, by the bye, far more tolerant and progressive than the present Government. The renowned Koxinga, who held the command of the whole Imperial fleet at Amoy, and who had received many mortifying repulses in Formosa, cleverly deflected the power and enterprise of the Dutch in the direction of that island. They succeeded in establishing themselves, and even intermarrying with the natives, but the wary Koxinga pounced down upon the successful colonists in a moment of weakness, from the want of supplies from home, and enacted a very Cawnpore tragedy. Just as Koxinga had made a cat's paw of the Dutch, so did the Chinese Government recom- pense him after he had strutted out his days of usurped sovereignty, and prepared the island for easy annexation.
Since then, the aborigines have been steadily,
FOEMOSA. 17
though slowly, driven to the eastward, and at the present day they enjoy possession of fully half this gem of the seas. The country is extremely wild and picturesque, and the very few travellers who have had the hardihood to visit the haunts of the aborigines speak of the hard work they encountered in penetrating the thick vegetation of the pathless hills.
It might he interesting to a Highlander to know that these adventurous pioneers have adopted and recommended the kilt as the best dress for such rough travelling. The Chinese have not pushed their colonies with rapidity, and certainly they had grave obstacles to encounter in the undying enmity of the natives, and in the denseness of their forests.
These thick forests of camphor trees have afforded inexhaustible occupation to settlers for many years past, and vast spaces have been cleared and re- planted. The natives distil the camphor themselves, and our merchants buy it of them at the place of production.
The savages, as they are called, occasionally come down from their hills, and attack the settlers with varying and trivial success. This only happens on the borders. All along the West Coast, and for some distance inland, the Chinese have fully established themselves in flourishing villages and towns.
18 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
To the Rev. J. Latard.
Formosa, January, 1871. — I was grieved to hear in my last home-letters of your very severe illness and suffering, and I was roused thereby to a con- sciousness of my neglect in leaving one or two of your welcome letters unanswered ; it was not that I had forgotten to do so, but various things conspired to prevent my writing.
It took a long time to get over here from Shanghae, and still longer for my luggage to arrive and enable me to set up in comfort at Kelung, and all this time 1 was hanging on in a comfortless shake- down-kind of existence in miserable quarters con- verted out of an ancient Dutch fort, which has stood for upwards of one hundred and fifty years, but of which little is accurately known.
[He here speaks of the kindness of his host.]
I was not long at my solitary post at Kelung before 1 had to return to Tamsuy to see the doctor, who could not come to me, having hurt himself just as I was in need of him. Heavy rains and storms had made the mountain paths so slippery, and so swelled the rapids, that I came down with some difficulty, but was able to return at Christmas.
I am impatient to get back to my books ; Kelung is a solitary place. Only the custom-house and one merchant-house are to be seen, and occasionally sailing-ships come in from Shanghae for coal. The Government have never quite made up their mind
FOEMOSA. 19
to encourage Formosan trade. Hence no proper houses have been built for the ofiScers, and just now we are in expectation of orders to close the consulate, and quit the island. I shall be glad enough to go, for it is a wretched existence in many ways, but it will be a great injustice to those who have stuck to the place, and made the trade, and we are all trying our utmost to plead their cause. The tea trade here is quite distinct from that at any other port. It is the purest and the best, and is just getting such an impetus, that it will very soon eclipse many of its rivals on the mainland. Dodd has played the arduous part of pioneer here for six years. His teas are prepared under his own eye, and packed by him ; whereas, on the mainland, this jDart of the business is done by natives, and the teas brought to the market complete. Unfortunately, Formosan tea is a bitter kind, the Oolong, which does not suit English tastes, but it is what the Yankees like, so nearly the whole of it goes to America. It is curious how each nation has its peculiar fancy in tea. The natives make such a profit by tea that they are cultivating it rapidly on the sides of the hills, and even replacing indigo with tea.
The Chinese agriculture is very striking in one respect, and that is, that it does not shrink from invading the highest summits, and far up the hill- sides you see little patches and terraces carefully cultivated, and in a little hut hard by, the soHtary worker is content to live.
20 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
Looking upon the vast unclaimed surface of this island, which teems with vegetation all over its hills, it is easy to predict an unlimited increase to the trade without the corroborating evidence of statistics. Kelung is only a coal harbour at present, but this year it will be great in tea also. The customs intend to reduce the grievous duties on coal soon, and when they do this, we shall have ships coming down in shoals. At present, it scarcely pays them. We cannot get them to allow foreign miners to deal with the coal-veins, which is a very great pity, as our Celestial friends make a very clumsy mess of it, and are utterly ignorant of the very rudiments of geology, which would enable them to recover' the strata at a fault. It is curious how jealous and suspicious the Chinese are of a geologist. If he wanders with a hammer among the rocks he is sure to be watched lest he should discover gold.
It is firmly believed that a foreigner can see three feet into the ground. If, on the contrary, you gather leaves and plants, you gain great respect from them, for you are supposed to be in search of medicines, and all foreigners are physicians in their eyes, and missionary doctors are especially successful. I have taken up botany and geology ; we find progress far easier in the former.
The scenery inland is lovely, but unfortunately for several winter months Kelung and its environs is enveloped in storms and wet weather, which is very depressing, unless one has some absorbing
FOOCHOW. 21
occupation. This I find in the books I am reading. I have also engaged a literatus to brush up my Chinese, for which I have little use in these quiet parts. The language certainly imposes a lasting task on the student, which does seem rather hard after the labour of acquiring it. I am reading- through a history, in the original, of a period in the third century a.d. It is merely a history of warriors, and battles, and treacheries, not a word of the con- dition of the people, save when they are slaughtered for the sins of their betters. The favourite treachery of inviting an enemy to a feast, with many protesta- tions of friendship, and then chopping his head off, is recorded over and over again, and it is a signifi- cant fact that this custom still prevails. We have had an instance of it in Formosa quite lately, when a mandarin, friendly to foreigners, was the victim after a sumptuous entertainment.
Lesson to foreigners — Don't trust tliem too much, which some are foolishly persisting in doing.
January 21tli. — I am obliged to close hurriedly, as a Siamese steamer has made its appearance at Kelung, and a messenger is going over to-night, so I will not miss the opportunity of sending this, as we cannot tell when another steamer may appear. A gale is blowing, which may delay the appearance of H.M.S. Zebra,
To his Parents. Foochow, 1871, — I have some stirring scenes to describe to you, which have occupied our minds to
22 MAKGAEY'S JOUENEY.
the exclusion of everything else. — I sold all my things satisfactorily within forty-eight hours of the EWs arrival, having sent round a comic circular, which had a magic effect, and raised a great deal of fun at the sale. The Elk was going round to Kelung for a trip, and also to lovely Sau-o-bay, on the coast of Formosa, where there was a probability of seeing some of the savages. Hence my hot haste, for I was very anxious to visit their haunts, otherwise I might have leisurely awaited her return, as she had come to Tamsuy for treasure. My friends gave me a farewell dinner the night before, and the song of " Old King Cole" was kept up to such a late hour, that I was in danger of oversleeping daylight, and missing the Elk ; as it was, I had to pursue her in my crumpled white clothes of the previous evening and minus my baggage. However, T hurriedly wrote a note to have my box sent overland to Kelung, and had just time to throw it into the sanpan, which was being towed nearly under. As sure as the telegraph, my things were over there and nearly as soon as I was, so that I had not to borrow much of my very kind friends on board.
W was a delightful man, and soon proved himself
A 1 in the event I am about to describe, and in the confusion and misery caused by a fearful typhoon which we narrowly escaped. The centre of the storm passed immediately over Kelung harbour. Had it occurred a few hours earlier or later, nothing could have saved us : as it was, I think I did some service to H.M.S. Elk, by pointing out the safest
FOOCHOW. 23
berth immediately behind a reef. The entrance to Kelung harbour is very simple, and I know the somidings well. They had got a duffer of a pilot, a native fisherman, who was taking the ship wrong, and
W sent for me. After that, the pilot was going
to put him into a place where, as events occurred, he must have been wrecked by other ships drifting down on him, even if he could have steamed up against the wind, which was awfully terrific. I was again referred to, and advised a snug corner which was very nearly occupied by another ship. I went on shore and could not get back to dinner on board at seven, when the blow began. However Dodd and I and another gentleman sat down to dinner. Very soon the wind began to be troublesome, the house rattled, and large pieces of the ceiling came falling down about us in every room in the most uncomfortable manner. We got out our barometers, and sat regarding them for about half an hour with extreme astonishment. The hands moved down tenths at a time, at last they reached 28, and we jumped up, and dressed in flannels to sally forth, and do what we could for the unfor- tunate ships, which we felt sure must be in distress. After opening the door with some difficulty, we struggled across the verandah and peered out into the darkness. The ship's lights seemed to be strangely mixed up, and soon three masts loomed out of the darkness, right under our noses. Then began the hurried excitement which lasted all that night. We had little at hand to make a light with, until a bright
24 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
thought struck Mr. C , and a heap of camphor
was thrown into a flower-pot, which made a brilliant blaze, and gave a beam of hope to the drifting ships. The water was now dashing all over the garden, and we attached a rope to the flagstaff. Dodd began frantically throwing his clothes off, and I followed his example. We were soon in the water, sticking together and wading out up to our necks, and then we had to swim ; but fancy our mortification in finding the rope short, by at least twenty feet. There was such a roar, that they could not hear on shore our cries for more rope, so we chucked it away, and were soon hanging on to the ship's netting. I tried then to swim back with a rope from the ship, but was obliged to haul back. We then went on deck, and tried to get volunteers, but the men said they could not swim. Two days afterwards they were swimming like ducks. We were perfectly disgusted to find Englishmen behaving so. However we got a boat lowered, which was immediately swamped, but soon baled out again, and we started for shore, with two men to row and a rope attached. No sooner were we on land, than the men skedaddled, leaving us in a pretty mess! Dodd was clinging to the rope with all his strength, and I was hanging on to the boat, when a tremendous sea dashed the boat against our legs, laming our assistants on shore, and then turning her over completely. Dodd and I were underneath like any jack-in-a-box, and we must have been killed, had not ihe boat turned
FOOCHOW. 25
over again miraculously. I felt it was all over for a moment. We could do nothing more then, and as we had ascertained, while standing shivering on board, that the ship was hard and fast, and so far out of danger,we left them, redressed ourselves, and went to look for two other ships which were ashore half a mile off among the worst rocks. The rocks were fearfully strewed with heaps and heaps of timber and copper bolts, difficult to avoid in the pitchy darkness, and blinding wind and rain. Ever and anon we heard a piteous cry from the angry sea, in answer to our chorus of " all right." Every one fell fifty times, and broke as many lanterns, and made as many journeys back to the house to get more. At last we unearthed a whole heap of Malays perched up on a high bank among the luxuriant brushwood, where they had been thrown up. These were conducted safe home, and we learnt from them that the captain was dashed to pieces. They belonged to the Weshcard Ho, and they told us that a French ship lay close to theirs with the crew clinging to the wreck. These unfor- tunate people we were enabled to get safe on shore some time afterwards.
We renewed our search, and crawling down opposite the dark object, we ascertained that the men were still on it. Here again tlie gallant Dodd plunged in, and effected a connection. I stood by him up to my shoulders in water to hold the line and life-buoy, and always kept close enough to speak to Dodd, who soon reached a buoy, which the Frenchmen threw over.
26 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
We then took the rope ashore, where the others made sure of the end, while we easily got on board. A strange scene then ensued. The old French captain began to cry, and embrace us, and we had quite an angry altercation before we could compel the crew to go over the side and trust themselves to the rope. We found a poor wretch with a broken leg, who be- haved splendidly, and helped us with his arms and other leg to hoist him over the bulwarks. I then went down and lay on my back in the water, holding on to the rope, and the man's legs were lowered on to my shoulders, so that I formed a sort of bed for him, and Dodd supported his head and shoulders. In this way, half swimming, half hauling, we two, unaided, carried him to shore. Excuse my egotism, but I cannot help being astonished how we managed it ! After this, they said, four men were cut off in the bows of the ship. Her back w^as broken, and at first it seemed impossible to get them off. How^ever Dodd and I again got on boai'd, and crawled near enough to speak to them, and to see that there really was a safe way down. But they had not the courage to move, until we poured abuse into their frightened ears. Just then a big sea rolled us all up into dumplings ; my hand fortunately found something to seize, but, to my horror, old Dodd had disappeared! He turned up again, though, frightfully bruised, and groaning with pain, and from that time I minded no more Frenchmen. We all got on shore, how^ever, with the addition of a black cat, which clung to my naked shoulder with desperate
FOOCHOW. 27
energy, while the waves rolled over our heads. About daylight we had a snack, and fell into a sound sleep, utterly exhausted, but we were glad to find on waking that the gun-vessel and two ships remained safe. We remained for a whole fortnight in frightful confusion. Dodd's house was turned into a barrack, and I am sorry to say many things
disappeared. Capt. W lent us marines, who lived
also at Dodd's, and we sallied forth night after night, to make up and watch by a big fire over against the wreck to keep off the natives ; every one had his work cut out for the time. I had to bury the poor captain, and help his mate (who was saved, and proved to be a right good worker) to keep his Malays in order, and victual them, and to save as much property as possible. The gun-boat did her best to pull off the stranded vessel. She steamed away with frightful energy, until we thought she Avould burst herself, instead of which she cracked the strong hawsers w^ith a report that was astonishing to hear. It was at night that these operations were always obliged to be carried on, and the result was a series of Turner's pictures. The P'renchman turned out to be rather a superior sort of man, but he was too fond of telling us that he was all there, that we had j^lenty of intelligence, and that the maritime laws were not washed out of his head. If that was so, I think they must have been the only things he saved, for his wits were more or less gone for three or four days. There were many strange
28 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
episodes during these events, which I cannot describe briefly. I remember shortly before we discovered the Frenchman's whereabouts, we tried to light a big fire in a dead-house that happened to be there. I mean a small joss-house, in which the rustics store their ancestral bones. The heavy driving rain prevented any such attempt outside. We picked up pieces of wreck, and threw them inside, and very soon a blaze was created, and a ghastly scene pre- sented itself; there we stood on the wild shore, with our faces screwed up in the pelting, hail-like rain, and inside, an ancient skull grinned uj3on us from behind the fire.
The next night, a big fire occurred in the city, and Dodd, with his usual impetuosity, put it out by jumping on the tops of the houses, , and hacking away with the sword he carried, until he fell through, and was hauled out by the coolies. He then had a hand to hand fight with looters, and retired amidst the cheers of the honest natives.
A few nights after this, we were all knocked clean out of our beds by a smart shock of earthquake. After settling the wrecks, and clearing off the business, we all went round to Tamsuy, and took in our treasure, and I am glad to say it put something
into poor W 's pocket. By the way, a treasure
chest, containing 1400 dollars, belonging to the British ship, was fished up by clever divers, and carried off
to a village. W landed and searched for it, and
we had a good deal of bother with the mandarins.
NIAGARA. • 29
I said good-bye somewhat sorrowfully to Tamsuy, and we had a beautiful passage over.
Large ships are wrecked all down the coast, and we found no less than forty more unfortunate people, including five women, at Tamsuy, forwarded
there by mandarins. Captain W brought about
sixty over with him. Through all the scrimmage, strangely enough, I was about the only one not hurt in any way beyond bruises. I have made a very long, and breathless yarn of this hurricane, but being as it is currente calamo, I hope no hostile criticism will attack my faults of grammar, and absence of coherence.
[In the spring of 1872 Mr. Margary returned to England for sixteen months. The following are ex- tracts from letters written on his return journey to China via the trans-continental railway through North America.]
To F. E. R. Cataract Hotel, Niagara, August 22nd, 1873. — I have this afternoon stood over the mighty Falls, wrapped in a delighted gaze. To-morrow morning I hope to sally forth very early, and go down below to the place where they dress you in oilskin, and conduct you right under the arched water. The Horse-shoe Fall is a mighty cataract indeed, with glorious bands of colour stretching across the water, fascinating the eye. . . We ordered a carriage, and drove to the rapids. The first operation was to
30 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
pay $1 . 50. each, and then we were let down some two hundred feet of perpendicular cliff in a regular hotel lift, to a standing point, from whence we overlooked the magnificent rapids, still at some depth below, seething into white foam its bright blue waters wherever a rock intervened. . . It is a stupendous gorge through which it runs, in many places showing up with a rich background of trees.
Our hotel and two others in a line with it are full of visitors. There seem to be more ladies than men among them, and as many of them are fresh and pretty, it is rather a gay sight. The coiffure of the younger women is very new, and somewhat amusing to look at. The hotels have an Oriental look about them, through having verandahs outside, and all the rooms thrown open with free ingress and egress from one to the other, so that what with numbers of people sitting outside, talking and smoking, and ladies flitting from room to room, a very animated scene is presented, and there is no need for a stranger to feel ennuye, or to lounge about alone, as at many English sea-side hotels. In fact the whole place has an unfinished look about it, very much reminding me of a settlement in the East, which of itself produces a very refreshing effect.
We have, in coming here, passed through much grand scenery with our eyes shut, although, I must say, it took a long time to get into that blissful state in the sleeping-car, of which we have had our first experience. The trains are conducted by very surly
NIAGARA. 31
officials, who will not give you information readily, and, this being a free country, of course, treat you as an inferior altogether.
The sleeping-car is rather a clever contrivance, but does not produce the comfort which is expected. In the first place, the rattling and heaving of the carriages is as though you stood by the engine-room of a steamer in a slight sea. The train regularly pitches and oscillates enough to throw you off your balance at times, and this, although it scarcely exceeds a rate of twenty miles. The first appearance of the car is that of a small restaurant, divided off into recesses right and left, filled with bench-seats facing in pairs, but at night the metamorphosis is magical. The nigger conductor passes along, pulling down an upper berth, which contains mattresses, sheets, and pillows, all smelling horribly musty. However, we were told that the Pullman's sleeping-cars, which we do not meet with on this side of Chicago, are much superior in every way. It is pleasant enough being able to lie down, but it is not so easy to undress in the narrow space, and you have hardly room to stow away a bag, so that in a trip of six or seven days, one has to put up with the misery of not being able to change apparel very often, nor is the luxury of a bath attainable.
The American trains are totally different to ours. You can pass right through from one end to the other, and as it does not matter where you get in, you find nothing of that excited rushing about to find
32 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
your carriage, so common in England. Another rather amusing thing is to see the cool way in which people jump off, or get on to the train while in motion, and also the absence of gates, or other bars, across the line when it passes through the highways. In many places the line passes along between houses, which have their front doors and verandahs facing the railway, and you see whole families sitting out and gazing at the monster trains passing by their very doors. In America it is the custom for trains as well as carriages to pass each other on the right.
To F. E. R. Pacific Mail Steam-ship ' Japan,' September 2nd, 1873. — This is a line which offers few opportunities or incidents for a sparkling correspondence, and I cannot at present see much material on board to work up into a thrilling history.
A magnificent ship like this, with saloons and cabins and ladies' boudoirs fitted up like a house at Princes- gate, is desolation itself, with only fifty passengers to enliven its spacious retreats. If only the long vista of this saloon could be sprinkled with the lively freight of an outward P. and 0. ship, we should have some fun to relate. But, as it is, the thought of pounding steadily at only nine knots through this wide ocean for three weeks, without touching at a single island, seems to have sent all the ladies to sleep.
For my part, having formed a resolution to brusli
EN KOUTE TO JAPAN. 33
up my Chinese and to read through a few voknnes of an intellectual type, I am not sorry that my restless social natm^e has not too much to distract it. I set to work most resolutely this morning, and for some two or three hours stirred up the muddy depths of oft trodden ground.
I shall have to hark back, and tell you more about our trip across America, but it seemed so barren and uncomfortable, that I did not feel as if I had anything to write about when I was there.
As we rattled over that execrable railway, our minds were not equal to much more than playing bezique ; consequently many hours were spent over that imbecile game. We used to get a table fixed up, between the opposite bench-seats, and there, in somewhat close packed comfort, we made ourselves sardine sandwiches, instead of dining off the very uninviting food supplied at the stopping places, for the enormous charge of a dollar. Those weary days tried our patience very much, and there was little to reward one at night, when the greasy-smelling black porter came along the carriage pulling down the berths, making the beds (one above and one below), and hanging the curtains all along, a process which soon changed the apj^earance of the carriage from a cafe' to a dismal, narrow passage lined with mysterious hangings, which utterly bewildered one as to the probable position of one's own head.
The railway followed the route originally taken by the Mormons in their harassing journey to the
D
34 MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
" promised land " of Utah, and it was interesting* to mark certain points and places, made famous by the history of their march. We passed close inider "Pulpit Rock," in Echo Canon, where Brigham Young addressed the assembled congregation before they took possession of the " promised land." Although we did not find time to run down to Salt Lake City, we were rigrht in the middle of the fine Mormon settlement at Ogden, which was the only refreshing place our eyes rested on for many hundred miles. Pretty little villas dotted the plain, which was spread out like an accidental lake in the hollow of the mountains. The liarvest had just been gathered in, and the Avhole place looked happy, a charming oasis after wearisome lengths of prairie and the con- ventional " city," which generally consisted of the railway station and a gaming shed.
To F. E. E.
Yokohama, September 29th, 1873. — We had twenty- two calm, monotonous days on the passage ; and then, all of a sudden, experienced a violent storm, one of those veritable typhoons of this dreaded coast, which delayed us twenty-four hours. The captain was a calm, sagacious man, well versed in these extraordinary tornadoes, and he managed to keep the vessel on the outskirts of the hurricane, and so let it pass by us. But we had quite enough of a gale to frighten many who had not been at sea before out of their presence of mind. Many felt serious
YOKOHAMA. 35
misgivings on account of the popular prejudice against the safety of these huge gingerbread ships in roufi-h weather. I stood in the wheel-house for'ard, all day long, by the side of the captain, and watched with interest and admiration the quiet way in which he manoeuvred the ship to meet the shifting condition of wind and waves. The great ship, steadied as she was by her enormous paddles, rode over the might waves with dignified motion.
One very remarkable phenomenon, amongst others, which in a smaller ship I should scarcely have been able to observe, without being lashed to a mast, I here saw beautifully displayed. It was the power of heavy rain in subduing both wind and waves. I heard the captain muttering "Just in time," after some manoeuvring of the helm, when down came a squall which lasted half-an-hour. It rained majesti- cally, and down came the enormous crested waves, under pressure of this new element, from tempestuous surging to an almost level calm. Not a breaker was to be seen ! Down, down, to oily smoothness went the angry waters, and I can picture from it the miracle on Gennesareth. " Two hours more of that," says the captain, " and we shall find smooth water." But alas ! it was but a squall, and the sulky wind followed on with redoubled fury. Midnight, however, brought a change, and the last day we steamed through quieter seas. . . We steamed along the Japan coast for some hours before reaching our port, and it was extremely beautiful. The hills were
D 2
86 MAKGAEY'S JOURNEY.
mnch broken np and covered with trees, which is, to my eye, the richest kind of scenery. We landed with deHght, expecting to see many wonders in this strange country, but civiHsation has advanced so rapidly, that many of their oddest customs have been swept away.
October 2nd. — We start to-day for Shanghae. . . . Yedo has greatly disappointed us. We went up by the railway, and spent the whole day running about Yedo in a funny little hand-carriage called a " gin- rick-a-sha." This is a modern invention, emanating from the native brain entirely. It is like a peram- bulator, only drawn in front, and the men who draw them are perfect marvels in activity. They will go all day with you at a fast trot, sometimes working up into a gallop. Gin-rick-a-shas abound. They stand in rows, like cabs in London, and the moment you put your nose outside the hotel, you are besieged -with them. You take one as a matter of course. What need for calculation, when a dirty little slip of paper worth ctsl250, or sixpence half-penny, will make the funny little gin-rick-a-sha man's eyes glisten, and his nimble legs scamper for half a day.
2\> Mrs. J. Layard. Shanghae, 1873. — Tory far from feeling any sort of impatience at your earnest letters, I have been very much gratified by reading them, and you need not fear to speak too strongly. I do feel the value of every kind of spiritual help out liere, where it is so
SHANGHAE. 37
easy to let go great truths and to sinT^ down to an easy-going level of morality. My visits to your quiet and much-cherished home were of incalcalahle benefit to me, and I read the Bible with pleasure and awakened interest.
1 was quite touched this morning to see the quantity of marks and notes you have both so kindly and laboriously put in the Bible you gave me. I value the Book immensely, and understand it now by the light
thrown on it at S . What an age seems to have
passed since I left home ; perhaps if I had had a more interesting journey it would not have seemed such a wearisome blank as I feel it now. After the mar- vellous Falls of Niagara there was nothing to relieve the monotony of the journey. The first city we came to was a pattern of all the rest, a mere handful of small huts on a dusty plain, with four or five sulky- looking roughs lounging about smoking.
The noble prairie was one close cropped waste of dried-up turf, with the faintest approach to undulation, unrelieved by any novelty. The prairie dog was a miserable little animal about the size of a ferret. The only Indians I saw were degraded-looking ruffians begging at the stations. No buffaloes ever appeared, antelopes kept at a distance. The Rocky Mountains were tame, and the scenery of the Sierra Nevadas was shut out from our view by snow-shed tunnels, which added much to our irritation. Add to all this the discomfort of the sleeping-cars, where there is little privacy and much dirt, and where I was
38 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
cruelly relieved of some 14/., and you will understand the abhorrence with which I regard the American route. San Francisco is a curious city. Some of the streets are paved with long planks of wood, which are generally in a rotten state, and your carriage, which is fitted with marvellous springs, buoyant as a balloon, has to tack about to avoid big holes. Railways are laid through the centre of the streets. Trains pull up like omnibuses at certain distances, and people jump on and off them while in motion. Altogether they show a disregard of caution quite startling to a person who in his own country towns seldom catches sight of a train without craning his neck over a high bridge parapet. Upon all this disap- pointment we had an utterly eventless voyage of twenty-three days, until on the very shores of Japan we encountered one of those terrible local hurricanes, the much dreaded typhoon. But our ship was so enormous that the dangerous waves passed harmlessly away. We, that is to say, I and an American lady and gentleman, with whom I got very intimate en route, stayed a week at Yokohama, hoping to be able to make some trips about the country, but we were foiled by the weather. However, there was so much novelty in the settlement itself, and in the great city Yedo, which we visited by rail, that the visit was very enjoyable I fell in with many old Shanghae friends, and felt quite at home. This was the honne houche of the whole trip, and we left Yokohama with pleasurable anticipations of going through the far famed inland
CHEFOO. 89
sea. This, at any rate, came up to our expectations ; but we were very near paying dearly for our whistle, for another typhoon, at the very doors of the land- locked sea, put us in great peril for some twenty-four hours. When this was safely passed, we soon found ourselves at anchor before a lovely spot called Kobe', or Hiogo. Having to be here a day and a half, we got up a picnic to a waterfall, and enjoyed the rich scenery of the tree-clad hills. In spite of all these refreshing sights, I was very low spirited until we fairly reached the beastly yellow waters of the mighty Yangtsze. Then a feeling of being near home came over me, and I got such a warm welcome on shore that atra cura fled rapidly.
[In November, Mr. Margary was sent to Chefoo, to take charge of that port till the consul arrived, and then to remain there as acting Chinese inter- preter. He describes it in his letters as a " cold bracing place in winter." " A little house," he writes, " on the top of a small hill is at my disposal. From its windows, I overlook the town on the one hand, and the curved bay on the other, where the blue water rolls in with a delicious murmur. In the back ground high hills close in the scene, w^ith grand effect." ]
Letters to F. E. E. The great institution of the place is a New Club, which at present comprises more amusement than instruction. The reading room is only so in name,
40 MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
but' the theatre is used every Sunday for Presby- terian services. I am told they hold a Church of England service there once a month. The great diversion of the club is bowling. On Wednesday and Saturday nights we all meet there and bowl away till midnight.
Friday, November 2S th. — I am afraid we have exhausted our fair weather. Heavy clouds are being blown down upon us from the north, and probably they will soon discharge themselves in snow. I am told in the depths of winter, the advancing tide throws up for itself a barrier of ice, which has been seen to grow several feet. . . .
There are some ten steamers, which continually run up and down from Shanghae, to Chefoo, Tientsin, and as the winter approaches, they hurry , them backwards and forwards, in the hopes of getting cargoes into the river, up to the last moment, before the ice bars farther progress. Then Tientsin gets shut out, and all these steamers are laid up, with the exception of one or two, which are run up here about once a fortnight. Unfortunately, we cannot count upon their regularity, so as to be sure of catching the mails.
I have paid two official visits to the local mandarin, called the Tao-Tai, and he has returned my intro- ductory call. I put on my uniform, and went off in a sedan chair, borne by four men in the usual style. We merely had to go about half-a-mile. This is not a walled city, but only a small town, the district city
CHEFOO. 41
being some twenty miles off. So that after passing through the foreign settlement, and its ridiculous little streets, ambitiously named " Broadway," or " Consulate Road," etc., we had only to thread a very short distance of the usual filthy narrow lanes of a Chinese town, before we reached the magistrate's abode. The streets were full of stalls, and choked with buyers, carriers, coolies, and mules. Most of the people stooped down to stare. Some roared with laughter, some quietly said, " Oh, here are foreign officials," others " Look at the foreign devils." The next time I went, I kept my eyes on a Chinese book, and thereby elicted many a surprised remark of approval. I am in this province quite at home again. Every coolie or peasant I meet, I can con- verse with intelligibly. This is such a comfort, after Shanghae and the South, where a horrible patois debars one from a single word of intercourse with the natives ; whereas, up here, wherever I roam, the familiar old Pekin tongue greets my ear, and the pleasure of a walk is increased fifty-fold. The country people are always nice, chatty, and agreeable. Somehow, the moment they herd to- gether, inside walls, the demon of malice, and mischief, seems to possess them.
The Tao-Tai's house was a miserable place. I passed through three or four dirty little courtyards before reaching the hall of audience, which was, as usual, an open room, with only three sides and a mud floor. The Tao-Tai is a young man for his rank.
42 MAEGAKY'S JOURNEY.
He is only tliirty-six but looks twenty-one. He has passed the highest examinations, and is a member of the " Forest of Pencils," and as a natural con- sequence, I find him very stupid, and exasperatingly apathetic. He is the Chinese beau ideal of beauty. First of all, very fat, especially in face ; that is a great perfection. Eyes with a good upward slant, a broad thick forehead and pericranium, and a large, heavy, sleek, rounded, placid face ; the mouth very pleasing, and showing a good set of white teeth when he grins. His general contour is then well supported with thick wadded clothes. He meets you at the door, seats you with ceremony, ]3uts bits of cake before you with his own hand, which you immediately do to him with yours, and then the con- versation begins by a good stupid stare, and absurd questions about your honourable age. I stirred him up well, and planted a joke, which has served to put us on the best of terms. . . .
I am gradually getting into studious habits, and as there is so little work in the office, a very large portion of the day is at my disposal. I generally have a couple of hours over Chinese before going to office. ... I have been negotiating to-day for a Chinese tutor. A young man was brought to me, and highly recommended for his talents and pro- ficiency in the public examinations, and so I have arranged to try him, and we shall commence work in a few days. I shall have his services, morning and evening, for the sum of ten dollars a month, that
CHEFOO. 43
is at the rate of about 27/. a year. . . . My object in getting an entirely fresh hand is to avoid the danger of learning doggerel Chinese, which those men who constantly undergo the drudgery of teach- ing foreigners unconsciously fall into.
Chef 00, January 25th, 1874. — The Chinese make a great deal of their New Year ; a public holiday of a week takes place, and I shall probably take a run up country. . . . All shops are closed, and no busi- ness done for a fortnight. They shut themselves up with their families and friends, and have a regular round of feasting and amusement. Heaps of crackers are fired off, and hideous noises of pan-pipes, gongs, and all kinds of music escape from every house. From about this time up to the end of their year, frantic efforts are made to sell off all their available stock ; cash is wanted everywhere. It is the grand settling day. Consequently purchasers find their money goes a long way. Now is the time to buy things cheap. As I went by the other day, I noticed the road lined with rustics bringing anything and everything to market, from food to firewood.
February 1st. — We have been out for about two hours, and enjoyed a ramble in an old Chinese family cemetery, which lies outside the town, about three miles off. These ancestral burying places of men of note are tended with great care. A wall surrounds the inclosure, and dark cypress trees overshadow the grave mounds. This one we have been to see to-day was first made by a distinguished
M MAEGAEY'S JOUENEY.
provincial governor, named Wang, who died in the early part of the seventeenth century. His mound occupies the top of the oblong, and many of his de- scendants lie ranged in order, on each side, down towards the entrance, and, after the manner of those times, an open avenue is left up the centre, lined on each side with figures of animals cut in stone. . . . I deciphered the monumental inscriptions, setting forth what offices and attainments each one acquired. These graveyards often afford the best feature in Chinese landscapes, as in them the trees are j)i'e- served, and as a rule in them alone will anything approaching to a grove be found. The people are so poor that they cut everything down for firewood, and we see them every day scraping the ground with long bamboo rakes, to gather grass and sticks for the same purpose. ...
I am planning a trip through the hills with a young Frenchman, and we intend to visit the gold mines, sulphur baths, and other places. The country round is full of minerals. Garnets, jasper, jade, talc, asbestos, and iron have been picked up in our vicinity, and I dare say we shall stumble upon interesting specimens in our tour. We shall be away from eight to ten days.
Cliefoo, February, 1874. — The New Year brings joy to the millions of China, from one end of the empire to the other. It is the prince of holidays ! I have just taken an opportunity of seeing its effects upon the country people, a short disstance away from
CHEFOO. 45
a port frequented by foreigners. For this once only in the long wearisome year conies a season ot freedom from daily toil. The iron bands of laborious existence are burst with an impetuous leap, and the whole nation seems to breathe a sigh of relief, and snuff the breeze of a holiday. It is pleasant to see these beaming faces, relieved of the stupid air of pre- occupation, which usually sits on their dull features. It is refreshing to meet with spontaneous greetings, and humble unaffected curiosity, from the simple country folk. " A touch of nature " seems to work its spell, and quite a pleasant sense of arriving at a common goodwill creeps over the benevolent heart of the " foreign devil " — then " crash, crash," " bang, bang," — on every side resound the gongs, and pyrotechnic thunders, which far more justly deserve an " infernal " epithet, and might point out the questionable kinship, but that the stranger feels that his delicate chords of sympathy are crushed in those horrid sounds. He knits his brows and walks away.
In much the same way does an inquirer feel checked on many points when he would like to learn something of the inner life of the Chinese.
Questions are unsatisfactory, for they are met by the superior classes with the lying gloss of their hollow etiquette, and by the inferior with an as- sumption of ignorance. Hence the most preposterous blunders are conceived and perpetuated about this people in writings of great authority. This soon becomes so evident to our countrymen residing at
46 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
the ports, and who are thereby enabled to travel short distances into the interior, that not a few feel urged to draw a truer picture of the Celestial character to replace the conventional type known at home. But easy as it may seem at first, they find themselves absurdly baffled at the outset, even though they feel themselves perfectly familiar with many phases of the national character. And it cannot be wondered at, when we reflect upon the enormous size of China, and the great difficulty of the language. We wonder at a different character showing itself in no greater distance than London to York ; yet here are eighteen teeming provinces, each able to swallow up the whole of Great Britain. With the exception of the missionaries, our consular officers, and a few Europeans in the employ of the Chinese Government, there is scarcely a resident who can find time to acquire the language. And the language is the only key we can use to get at their thoughts, first by reading for ourselves their books, and next by overhearing the common talk of the people in the streets, or while engaged in their daily occupations. The books throw light on manners and customs which have not the same significance when viewed by the uninitiated foreigner, and express the underlying ideas which are often too quaint for our unassisted thoughts to arrive at. Again, the Chinaman in company and the same man in private are totally different. He is always veneered in your presence. The real article must
CHEFOO. 47
be viewed in tlie rough. And there is very much to reward a quiet observer, if he is quick enough to pick up the conversation around him when it is supposed that he cannot understand.
It was partly with a view to picking up know- ledge in this way of the extraordinary people among whom some of us in China have to pass a large portion of our existence, that I planned a trip lately with a companion into the hilly districts of the great Shantung province in the north-east. By Chinese custom all business is suspended for a few days at the New Year, and accordingly we found ourselves free from all trammels, official or otherwise, for the space of seven days. The length of this interval is fixed by the local mandarin, and often leads to no small grumbling on the part of foreign merchants who have ships lying idle on their hands. My companion was a young Frenchman who had not yet acquired much of the language, but whose incipient knowledge of various scientific subjects made his conversation very agreeable and useful.
The mode of travelling in this mountainous province is by means of mule litters of the simplest construction. The very sight of them would send Messrs. Thrupp and Maberly, or Holland and Holland into a frantic agitation to have the treaty revised, with a special view to the introduction of their ad- vanced improvements. Two poles with cross bars and a canopy of matting, Voila tout I
" Oh, impossible," says the amiable foreign devil
^
48 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
with a smile — " really I can't go in that." But soon he sees his excellent " boy " spread out a most tempting mattress, which rests on his provision box and portmanteau, the whole under-girded with ropes ; and he is obliged to confess what an excellent contrivance it is for the tossed and stone-covered goat track the animals cleverly thread. The mule- teer always has a spare donkey to carry his own particular baggage, which includes provender for the animals ; for at the inns they seem only to provide chopped straw and water. The poor donkeys had certainly the hardest work of all, for, in addition to the load of the pack-saddles, they were never free of our lazy attendants, whose ridiculous attempts to mount the heap were often a source of amusement to us.
My companion and I, rejoicing in the opportunity of free exercise, would walk for hours at a stretch, while our boys were equally energetic in sitting. Nothing but the frosty air ever drove them on to their feet. And perhaps it is not to be wondered at, when they wear such wool-wadded garments. The Chinaman's system of keeping out cold is not found in exercise or fires, but in heaping on clothes, though at night, they have a way in the north of sleeping on a sort of oven. Our boys, after all, must have got a good deal of exercise in the mere business of mounting. The pack-saddle was so high that they mostly took advantage of a mound to help them up ; but as the donkey invariably " moved on "
i^
CITEFOO. 49
(after the ruling passion of a policeman) before his rider was half up, we were greatly entertained to see the struggles of the boy and his half frightened features as he hung like an animated clothes-bag jolting away from the pack. The drivers walk long distances without wanting to rest. The usual stage varies from forty to fifty li, or fifteen miles from halt to halt, and the regular day's journey is just one hundred li. At the inns all is in bustle at daylight. We invariably rose by candlelight. There was little inducement to linger in such a lodging. Picture it ? none Init the pen of the " casual " could possibly equal the task. 'Tis a " lodging for man and beast," in very truth. The pretentious gates admit the caravan into a courtyard, wliich is simply a stable fitted with mangers under a shed. On one side, a magnificent suite of hovels with ill-fitting, barn-like doors, which are dignified with the name of guest chambers. In one of these, on one occasion, we found it so cold that the land- lord's ingenuity had to be put in requisition to doctor the door. A cheerful old man he was, that landlord, and most obliging. He soon got a large whisp of straw and stuffed it up beautifully.
Young F was much too dainty ; he would have
the torn paper window patched up with pages from his Revue des Deux Mondes. This idea was too much for him. He had created a curio that tickled his fancy vastly. To think of those words of wisdom figuring in such a plipht ! "We actually ate in that
E
50 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
room. Its ceiling was blackened witli smoke, and spiders'- webs. Its walls were in mourning for mud. Hunger is however a good sauce, but really laughter is a panacea. We never felt such overpowering mirth, which culminated at last in a roar — for scarcely had we rolled ourselves up in our blankets and skins, than a suspicious noise hard by made us gradually conscious of the fact that a pig was actually eating the door. This inn may be taken as a sample of all the rest. Our mattresses were spread on the khang, or oven above mentioned, only we dispensed with the fire underneath. Of course, in every in- stance, the dust had to be swept off it, and sometimes the dirty old mat covering changed for a cleaner.
Settling up in the morning was an invariable cause of delay. However briskly we might prepare for a start, there was always at first this vexatious question of charges to hinder us. " Dum ses exigitur, dum mula ligatur, tota abit hora." After the second day we paid no more than a Chinaman would and got civility to boot. Firmness at first, though it nearly led to l^lows, had its effect in the end. The rates are really so ridiculously low, that one must feel mean to dispute them ; but for the sake of the missionaries, who cannot be lavish, we stedfastly kept to the rule. A hundred copper cash per head, or about five pence, is all the charge. To meet this crushing demand, a ponderous purse, like a potato sack, has to be hauled out of the litter, and its copper contents reduced ; for one of the
CHEFOO. 51
preliminaries of travelling is to change all one's silver into strings of cash ; and, as twelve hundred and sixty, just now, are equivalent to a dollar, the purse is necessarily of a size which would embarrass a pickpocket.
On the second day, we were taken to a more pretentious inn. There were really large rooms, and, to our great astonishment, a regular four-poster for a bed. Here, having an hour of daylight to spare, and being simply inundated with curious children of ages varying from five to twenty, we resolved to stroll out of the town and examine the rocks and local strata. With a rabble at our heels, we were not free to use our geological hammer until a good mile lay between, and the crowd had straggled off. But for long we heard their good- humoured shouts, and as the dusk set in Ave could still see a few figures perched on the walls, peering at our distant forms, and I thought how their superstitious minds must have shuddered to think what diabolical purpose could be inducing those two queer beings to wander up that uninteresting gully of shale. It was dark ere we made a detour and re-entered the town. A couple of scouts darted oJBF to proclaim our return, but, as I thought, the majority were by this time " whipped and sent to bed," so we found the coast pretty clear. It was New Year time, and all the schools were closed, as I learned from the happy boys when I harangued them on the advantages of gaining knowledge. We were not
E 2
52 MAKGAEY'S JOURNEY.
to enjoy these comparatively comfortable quarters for nothing, and the next morning our " caupo malignus'' calmly made a demand of 1000 cash; but finding I was perfectly able to argue the question in his own language, he was fain to beat a retreat to his office in the gate, and sullenly refuse all assistance to lift our litters on to the mules.
This might be an excellent plan with a patient Chinese traveller wadded in wool, but a European is unaccountably odd, and our amiable host found we were quite able to do the work for ourselves. As the man still refused a fair oifer, I politely asked him his name, and wrote it down. Then, amidst a murmur of " Ai-yahs " from the crowd, I proceeded to copy the Chinese name of the inn. This made a grand impression, and the landlord evidently began to feel " sorry he spoke." Then, with an oratorical appeal to the sense of justice of our audience, we presented our friend with just half his demand, and told him he would probably suffer for his incivility. It appeared to be a sort of market day, and the street was full of rustics, unburdening their donkeys of large bundles of fuel and vegetables. Fearing interruption, we brought up the rear of our pro- cession on foot, but had not proceeded far before a cabl^age stump was hurled at my companion. This was the only piece of active insult we met with in the whole of our trip. In any European town it would have lighted up the spirit of mischief at once, and the luckless stranger would liave found an
CHEFOO. 53
uncomfortable reception. But how different here ! I mention the incident to show what harmless people the Chinese are in themselves. Turning sharply round, I immediately demanded, " Who did that ? " Those standing nearest, of course, at once pointed out some one more remote. I then made a short speech, taunting them with a breach of their boasted " Li " (good manners) and asked them if we were to note that as an example of Chinese " Li." Not a word was said, and we proceeded without the slightest attempt at a repetition of the insult. They are simply a reasonable people, and can be talked into good humour very easily. The question of whether they are a cowardly people is entangled with contradictions. Their soldiers have fought Avell both in the nortli and south against European forces in isolated instances, and a whole mob in Canton has been known to gut the governor's residence, regardless of a terrible storm of shot and shell from our ships ; while they always submit to surgical operations with a steadiness of nerve that few foreigners could boast of. And yet one or two Europeans may thrash a whole crowd, and their sailors are useless in a storm. The real clue to a Chinaman's action is his settled principle of non- intervention. To move in any matter, there must be some strong circumstance affecting him personally to urge him. He will stand by and stare at a Chinaman killing a foreigner with exactly the same indifferejice as at a foreig)ier beating a Chinamnn.
54 MAKGARY'S JOURNEY.
Their very laws and customs prevent anything approaching to a disinterested act of any kind. If a man fell down fainting in the streets, and a by- stander gave him water, he would render himself liable to all sorts of expenses for maintaining, curing, and perhaps burying the sick stranger. And if a wealthy man starts an enterprise he will surely be mulcted by the mandarins. " Never do a thing you can help, and appear to be poorer than you are," is the safest course for a Celestial. It is very much the fashion to talk of China as if it were a sort of human bee-hive, or ant-heap, overburdened with struggling humanity, but I have never yet been overpowered with a sense of this multiplicity. The walls of Pekin, and indeed of every city, embrace as much waste land and open space as ground which is fully occupied, and the open country is but sparsely dotted with villages. And since 1861, the unhappy central provinces which were devastated by the rebels, have remained a wilderness, where now, in parts, the foreigner can roam at will and bag his game by thousands. Pheasants, deer, and wild pigs, multiply without hindrance. No wealthy sportsman at home can rival the natural preserves which a Shanghae resident freely commands. Of course the whole population of China makes up a big figure ; but the European mind, with its con- tracted notions of territory, is not prepared to conceive the vastness of the country which finds room to disperse this huge census. Thus in our trip we
CHEFOO. 55
were frequently prone to remark what long distances we traversed without meeting with habitations. Every inch of country, however, was cultivated, and generally denuded, not only of wood, but of grass, shrubs, or anything capable of serving as fuel. The people go forth and scrape everything they can find into bundles for sale, to that end. We looked in vain for vegetables or live-stock, in most instances, among the occasional groups which passed us bound to some market. It was always fuel, and sometimes the donkeys were hidden by their loads. These rustics would always hail us pleasantly with the query : — " Where is it you are going to, elder-born ?" " Oh, I'm taking a stroll," I would answer. " A stroll !" they would say in surprise, and move on, wondering what the foreign devil could mean.
For two days and a half we trudged on through a valley and met with nothing to interest us, not even a variety of stratification. All was of quartz. We got sick of quartz, and longed for a change to granite, or porphyry, or gneiss, or anything. But all of these came to reward us in time, and once we rose in a short distance from a depression of igneous rocks to a plateau of blue lias.
At length we passed over into the southern watershed, leaving behind us a fine series of rugged peaks standing in grand bold outline against the clear sky. These are called the Saw-teeth Mountains. They are known to contain gold. The country began to look more picturesque, and before long a
56 MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
towering object on the plain served to quicken our expectations. It looked, as we approached, the very beau ideal of a feudal stronghold perched on a commanding rock, and the motion of the swaying litter was fast inducing a dreamy romance about some fine old baron up there, who dealt splendid misery all round. And so it was, forsooth ! Only the baron was lazy old Buddha, and the misery he shed was moral, and social. The temple was beauti- fully placed on a solitary rock of green sandstone, of a clear light colour when chipped, which was most pleasing to the eye. We had to climb up some two hundred feet to the summit. Two miserable individuals occupied a hovel at the top, and the temple they looked after was full of hideous, painted idols. Buddhism in China is a dead, morbid super- stition. The faith exists ; but all zeal or reverence in the worship is entirely wanting. In India, fanaticism guards the sacred idol from profane touch, but in China, you may examine the figure, while the worshipper is on his knees before it ; you may point to its grotesque features with your stick, and joke on their expression, and he will join you in the laugh before he has even finished his kow tows. It was a dirty place up there, and sadly in want of repair, like everything Chinese ; but a small bridge thrown over a deep cleft at the top, and a very steep flight of steps, leading from it up to the topmost shrine, gave the place an interesting and picturesque appearance. The two incumbents were very civil,
CilEFOO. 57
and communicative, and after showing a decided liking for my cigarettes, obliged us by pointing out a short cut down, by which we could descend and catch up our litters, which were by this time quite out of sight. We looked back with admiration at this commanding site, and dubbed it " Belle Yue " Temple, which, indeed, is a literal translation of the Chinese name, written over the temple door, and justly commemorates its magnificent view.
We had pushed on this day without a halt for tiffin, as the whole stage was shorter than usual, and we hoped to save time for rambling in the vicinity of a walled city of much interest which we were approaching. It was the last day of the Chinese year (falling this time on our 16th of February), and we were soon made uncomfortably aware of the great importance of the day. Walled towns are built square, with a gate in the centre of each side, facing the four quarters of the compass. Travellers put up at the inns in the suburbs, in order not to be trammelled in their early movements by having to wait for the opening of the city gates. So, we too, sought a like advantage, but moved from one quarter to another in vain. The streets were crowded, and people were bustling about to buy last requisites for several days of idle barricade. A crowd stood round us as we waited at the inn door, and silently stared with evident wonder at our travelling at such a time. Indeed, I was more than once asked en route, in a tone of compassion, " whether we too had
58 MAKGARY'S JOURNEY.
not a New Year to keep." Strange to say, our boys began to get angry at their want of success in trying to induce the innkeepers to take us in. They were evidently getting hungry, and the day was waning without a prospect of finding shelter. Our spirits, on the contrary, began to rise. We could not help laughing at our plight. I joked with the bystanders, and they joined in the laugh. We were evidently in a fix. I told the muleteers if they did not find us quarters, we should make them push on all night. Some one in the crowd then suggested we might find quarters at an inn within the walls, and accordingly this last hope was reluctantly adopted, but proved like the others a will-o'-the- wisp. Matters began to look serious, and as we were no great distance from the place where last December a mob nearly roasted a missionary, I thought it possible that this determined opposition was a result of hostility, and immediately determined to visit the magistrate, whose yamen happily proved to be close by. Proceeding thither on foot, with an attendant rabble, of course, we waited at the door, while my servant went in with cards and passport, to demand an interview. The rabble was very friendly, and showed a great admiration for the cloth of which my large overcoat was made. We chatted and joked in the most amicable manner, until at length a messenger returned to apologize for the mandarin's inability to see us as he was with his barber ! — but that, as all we required was a lodging.
CHEFOO. 59
he would immediately send a constable to procure one for us. He kept his word, and three men accompanied us to the inn, where we waited outside, while a stormy altercation raged within. The inn- keeper appeared to be independent enough to oppose the dangerous myrmidons of the law, and the fight was long and loud ; overhearing their words, I soon became aware that there was no hostility, but that we were actually inconveniencing the man very seriously by our presence on this great night of the year. So, taking advantage of a lull, I stepped in, and politely told the man that what the constable said was quite true, and that we were really intending to depart early, and that we should spare him all the trouble in our power. Immediately the man's face changed, like sunshine after rain, and he acquiesced at once. I was greatly struck by tbe effect a few polite words bad on this man, and the confidence he at once gathered, from the fact of having to deal with a quiet foreigner who spoke his own language. Being New Year time, all the employees of the inn were gone for their holiday, and not a scrap of provisions remained for man or beast. But as we had our own food with us, in those paragons of invention, the hermetically sealed tins, this dearth could affect us in no way whatever. Having wasted so much time we could only stroll through the town till dusk, and indeed were well repaid for our pains. I should not omit to mention here a very charac- tedstic phase of Chinese cupidity. As soon as we
60 MAKGARYS JOURNEY.
were ensconced in our miserable quarters, the inevit- able cumsliaw was demanded, and our three stalwart protectors responded to the profuse liberality of the foreign devil by actually kneeling before him, though the sum only amounted to 500 cash, or say 25. A special messenger arrived shortly after from the mandarin with his cards, to return our visit and kind inquiries. We begged him to take no more trouble about us, as we had what we wanted, thanks to his aid, and that an early start precluded the possibility of our calling again to thank him. The accident which thus brought us within the walls of " Lai Yang" to spend a night, and that the great night of the year, in the very midst of a city population which was not often favoured by a sight of foreigners, was after all a fortunate occurrence for us. For taking advantage of a couple of hours of daylight, we strolled through the streets, which here presented a richer appearance than most district cities can boast of, and at the same time we gained some experience of the temper of a walled jDopulation, which, as a rule, one prefers to avoid altogether. Most of the houses were by this time closed, and the streets looked as dismal as an English town on Sunday ; but a group of men, standing under an evergreen porch (one of many put up at New Year by way of decoration), gave us an opportunity of conversing, by their cheerful and civil greetings. They were particularly anxious to understand how many days there were in our year, and why our New Year did
CHEFOO. 61
not coincide with theirs. An extremely pleasant conversation ensued, with the utmost cordiality on both sides, and a thorough appreciation of my cigarettes. The streets were spanned at close in- tervals with commemorative arches of stone — some recent, spic and span, some old and almost past identification. A fine handsome man who accom- panied us stated there were seventy-two of them, and indeed we could easily have guessed there were more. It was quite an epidemic of arches. Every street had broken out with the complaint, and as each one chronicled a virtuous act, we were fain to believe Lai Yang must have reached a point of enviable moral excellence. Our very civil cicerone walked some distance with us, and politely pointed out the chief public places. There was certainly little to admire in them. A large inclosure inside a temple, where our friend told us fairs were held, looked bare and dismal enough. A group of idlers strolled in with us, and indulged themselves with a good stare, passing at tbe same time several compli- ments on our knowledge of their language. It is often amusing to hear the remarks of bystanders upon ourselves. They are usually struck with the fact of a foreign devil speaking their own tongue, and commonly exclaim, " Why he can speak our language ! What a capital joke ; just hear him, he speaks quite well !"
We returned to our inn, and ate a scratch sort of meal, and got into our comfortless couches, shuddering
62 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
with dread for crawling demons. Up and ready- before daylight, not to lose time, we came upon a domestic scene which was worth witnessing. It was New Year's Day (February 17th, 1874), and the first great duty of every householder was going forward. Master and man were busily engaged in the worship and propitiation of their household gods. I stepped across the yard and looked on. Daylight had not yet illumined the scene, and the weird, fitful glimmer of a few sorry candles threw a mystic influence over the rites, which no doubt influenced their super- stitious minds. Both were dressed in the same uniform. I must call it so, for the same form of dress marks an office or a ceremony from top to bottom of the social scale ; rank being distinguishable by decorations or quality of clothes. The ceremony consisted in lighting some joss-sticks, and kneeling down before them, frequent kow-tows and posturing. A table beside them was neatly laid out, with a cold banquet, and plates and chopsticks were placed round in order for the spirits to sit, and enjoy. While this silent feast proceeded, our host and his man stood by, like reverend waiters, to attend to the wants of their invisible guests. One almost expected some- thing to appear, so cabaHstic did the whole scene look. Having given the spirits a reasonable time to devour these solids, our friends proceeded to fire a feu de joie, with fearfully noisy crackers, outside the front door, which must have frightened the spirits, if they had any ears. I pitied the poor ghosts hovering
CHEFOO. 63
over such, to them, indigestible food, and could imagine their pitiable looks and distressing chorus of, " Oh that this too, too solid flesh would melt," — in the Chinese version, of course. Every house in China was at that moment doing the same, and the reverberation of crackers here, there, and everywhere, made such an infernal din that the foreign devils belied their origin by the speediest possible exit. Such being the state of affairs, we could not but feel rather adrift where to look for our next lodging. New Year was not the time to travel in China, evidently, and no sympathy could be kindled in the face of such innovation. Reluctantly driven thus to change our plans, there was nothing for it but to return by a different route. The direction was here decided for us by the cheerful muleteer, who promised a certain lodging at a particular inn, and though it was a long day's journey, we thoroughly enjoyed the trudge, and were rewarded in the evening by putting up at the hostelry of a very remarkable man. Several villages we passed through were decked out in holiday gala — children freed from school gambolled before their laughing parents, and collected to gaze as we passed. I exchanged kind words and most civil greetings everywhere. It was a pleasure to pass through the village groups. Smiles and natural affability were sure to meet us always. Whatever vices these people have, or however depreciatingly this surface civility may be attributed to fear, or any other ignoble cause, still, it is a fact, that a foreign
64 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
traveller gains pleasure and comfort from its exis- tence, and that is more than he might find in fifty villao-es in his own land.
The mid-day halt at a little isolated village on the
crest of a hill, gave ns a picture of the simplest rustic
life, such as delights my memory to dwell upon.
There may have heen two hundred inhabitants in
all, counting women and children, and probably none
of them had ever moved out of that dreary little
circle. They lived twenty miles from anywhere,
and that was a poor place. The excitement produced
by the arrival of two such superior beings from the
outside world was evidently something transcendent.
Imagine what a blow it would be to our enlightened
intellects, bursting with modern knowledge, to have
a sudden interview with the twenty-second century,
vide " The Coming Race " for example. However,
I hope we should put pithier questions to our
mortifying guests than these poor fossils had for us.
One of them, pointing with pride to a miserable
willow, asked if we had anything like that in our
country, and for the matter of that, indeed, we may
have been botanically incompetent to answer. While
preparing for our lunch in the best room of the inn,
which, by the way, was no better than a dirty old
barn, we had to undergo a close inspection from the
whole village. Old and young all crowded into the
room, and stood and stared, and wanted to touch
everything. The operation of washing our heads
and faces with sponge and soap seemed to delight
CHEFOO. 65
them immensely, as being a capital idea. And on my proceeding to take my nails out of mourning with a penknife, a burst of surprise and laughter broke out. The next thing was to get rid of our very dirty and unsavoury guests, but repeated, mild requests proved quite useless : so addressing two or three of the elders with feigned respect, we begged them to teach their juniors better manners, and make them withdraw, while we ate. The stratagem was successful. Quite taken by our complimentary politeness, they immediately cleared out their neigh- bours, and left us alone for a time. Such a novel sight as two foreign devils feeding after their own fashion was however too good to be lost, and we were soon conscious of innumerable perforations being neatly executed in the paper windows, and of staring eyeballs framed in every hole. Their curiosity was soon better satisfied by our giving away the pickings, and distributing cigarettes and empty bottles. We chatted and joked in the most cheerful manner, and, indeed, received quite an ovation on leaving. Numbers of willing hands assisted in lifting the litters on the mules, and while passing down the street, we gave an opportunity to the smiling womenkind, who had been peeping from every door, with their usual curiosity, to have a good view of us. I should like to visit that village again. It was extremely pleasant ; we looked back at its feeble wall inclosure, as we wound down the valley, and wondered when the light of civilisation
66 MAEGAKY'S JOUENEY.
would break it down, and set this sliut-up people free.
It was dark ere we reached our resting-place, outside the walls of another little city called Chi-hsia Hsien. The latter words being attached to districts of similar size, viz., the third order, we knew at once that Chi-hsia was as large as Lai Yang, but it was very evident from its dilapidated condition that it was neither so rich, nor important. A large summer torrent must have annually swept round two sides of the city, judging from its wide dry bed, full of rounded pebbles, and a bold steep bank, on one side, of waterworn porphyry.
Arrived at the inn door, our doubts of the muleteer's ability to find us a lodging received some strength from the futile result of a great deal of knocking. Tired and hungry, we felt impatient to get in somewhere, and the unpleasant looks of the few loiterers in the street did not favour a prospect of easy admission to any house. The muleteer however disappeared at the back of the premises, and very shortly after the door flew wide, to our intense relief, and a smiling, civil host invited us in. The best room appeared to be occupied by a corn factor, judging by his samples of grain. But our energetic host soon bundled him out, most un- ceremoniously, and had the mud floor and brick " khang " w^ell swept to humour our whimsical objections to dirt. Our servants speedily spread the mattresses and ])lankets on the " khang," and
CHEFOO. 67
we threw ourselves down upon them with a book to while away the impatient interval till prepara- tions for dinner were completed. The khangs are always fitted with a little square table, on dwarfish legs, and thus, with one of these between us, we sat and regaled ourselves — a really comfortable position. I recommend it to invalids and sybarites. They can fill the pauses by reclining back on the couch. Just as we were thoroughly appeased, and began to regale ourselves with a glass of wine and a smoke, in that calm frame of mind which is sure to follow a bivouac under difficulties, our host knocked at the door, and cheerfully sat down to join us. This was such an astonishing piece of affability for a China- man that we roused every effort to be agreeable, and soon plunged into a long conversation. He alluded to the existing relations between foreigners and his countrymen, and expressed his conviction that they would be the best of friends, if the natives only knew them better. He, himself, had been much with Europeans, and took every opportunity of talking to them ; but the country people had only the means of judging from individuals who passed through the villages of the nature of foreigners. Unfortunately, a hasty man had produced a bad impression in one district by striking a native. The result of which was an obstinate determination to give the cold shoulder to any future visitant of his hated race.
This particular place contained a remarkable sulphur spring, and we were bound thither ourselves,
F 2
68 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
SO that his information was not calculated to increase our anticipations of pleasure from the next day's trip. Our host's vigorous and enlightened remarks led me to suspect that he was a Christian, which he immediately acknowledged. He had been round with the missionaries, and taken an active part in preaching. In contrast to his allusion to the pugnacious foreigner, I discussed with him the late outrage at Chi-Ini, where the populace set upon the harmless missionary, and burnt out his house. He deplored the circumstance, and explained it by a local irritation, not against the missionary, but a sect which had long existed among them, and which had apparently, to them, sought the missionary's pro- tection against persecution. It is a curious dis- covery, which the evangelists made when^ they reached that district, that a sect has existed there for ages, with a peculiar form of faith and worship, untainted with idolatry, and to all appearances based on a Christian origin. They go by the name of the " Undefined Persuasion," reminding one strongly of the Athenians when St. Paul found them worship- ping an unknown god. Our host, as I said, was a remarkable man, and the very energy with which he did everything, even to carrying out his own brisk orders in the yard, where he would rebuke the sluggishness of his man in tethering a mule, or lifting a litter, by showing them how, made me much interested in him, and on my return to our port I learned his history from a missionary who
CHEFOO. 69
knew him well. In the time of the rebellion, when the mandarins and their feeble troops were repulsed and confined to their walls, this innkeeper, Lin, had filled the whole country side with his fame. He raised volunteers from among the rustics, and led them to victory, until, after things were quiet again and the valiant mandarins began to breathe afresh, he was rewarded by arrest and imprisonment ! Although they owed their safety to this over-zealous commoner, yet, as his success would prove but too fatal a comment on their own pusillanimity, they wrested his loyalty into an act of rebellion, under a law which forbids such independent action as his. Poor Lin went near to lose his head, but the rustics loved their hero, and came to his timely rescue. The mandarins then released him, after a series of threats, upon a promise, the only one they could extort from the brave fellow, that he would forgive them, and hold his tongue about the whole affair. Such a man must have a grand influence in furthering the spread of Christianity and enlightenment among his fellow provincials, who are, like most rustic populations in China, well disposed, good hearted, hospitable people, but so superstitious, as to be a ready-made com- bustible for the use of political schemers, and the arrogant literati class, whose hatred of foreigners is at the bottom of every emeute, and who know so well how to launch a mob with a specious placard. Lin has two daughters, whom he takes great pains to educate, l)oth in Chinese literature, and in the
70 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
knowledge of the Bible, and is generally bringing them up in a careful training which no true China- man dreams of ever throwing away on so insig- nificant a thing as a girl. Some weeks after my visit I renewed this man's acquaintance, when he came to call upon me at my house, and I was much struck with his enthusiastic admiration of the view from my verandah, which he said was a sight which few of his countrymen knew how to appreciate.
Letters to F. E. R. Chef 00, March 26th. — I have just been looking at a wonderful stone, which lies half way down the cliff, poised on a mere point of rock. Some convulsion severed it from the upright strata and carved it into a fanciful resemblance of a junk, which has procured for it the name of " ship stone " among the Chinese. It is a spot much visited by the literati, and various inscriptions adorn the huge stone. Unlike the hideous scrawls of Tom, Dick, and Harry, Chinese characters look so well in themselves, that they invite praise rather than execration for the nameless tourist who put his mark there. Four magnificent characters, deep cut and bearing date some one hundred and twenty years back, proclaim it a " Freak of Nature," while in small, modest type at the side the name and birthplace of the man who composed and wrote the phrase are commemorated. On another portion an impromptu verse hits oif a few epigrammatic ideas on the " stone ship poised in mid
CHEFOO. 71
air, fearless of storms and winds, oiitrivalling man's handiwork."
The Chinese pride themselves most on writing characters prettily, and composing pithy stanzas. I have seen a couple of old idiots smacking their lips, and clicking their simple tongues, over a pair of slips hung up like pictures, and bearing only four or five " characters written by some swell or scholar. . . .
They have started a series of soirees, for the benefit of the Temperance Society, at which various people give readings. They have booked me for something next time. The plan of the society is certainly good. A room is provided with papers and periodicals for loafers and seamen of the better class to spend their time in profitably, instead of getting intoxicated for want of somewhere to go to and something to do. . . .
People are apt to scoff at modern missionaries with their comforts of house and home, but I have an opportunity here of seeing that they really do a vast deal of work. If they do not succeed in making many real converts, they certainly diffuse a great deal of knowledge. Their little schools are full of children, and their chapels crowded with devout worshippers. I hope to be able to form a better opinion on the missionary question here than people are able to do at other places. I have made the acquaintance of some of those in this neighbourhood, who are very charming men, of great culture, education, and socia1)ility. One of them gave up a
72 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
popular pulpit to come out, and study the Chinese philosophically ; he is a man of great reading and a very pleasant companion. They are constantly away in the interior, but they hark back now and then to head-quarters at Tung Shing. There they have a grand mansion, over which Mrs. W presides.
The other day, Mr. W took his wife into the
interior, as far as the capital, and to Confucius' tomb, to see how the people would take the intrusion, and the result proved most gratifying, as everywhere they received the utmost politeness, and met with no
molestation. Mr. L is a most entertaining man.
He has had a number of adventures, which prove him to be a man of courage and determination, and he tells his stories with such humour that we were in roars of laughter all last evening when I was dining with him at the B 's.
An account of some Chinese troops that he met on the war path was true to absurdity, and illustrates the rottenness of their system.
They were going along at the rate of about a mile and a half an hour, to march to some place one hundred miles off, in order to put down a rising which had taken place months before !
Their direction moreover was due east, while the enemy lay far to the west. He told us he was travelling in Mantchooria once, when the whole country was infested with brigands, and how the robbers could find nothing in his effects but copies of the Bible, which he begged them to take, promising
SHANGHAE. 73
that it would teach them a thing or two, how it condemned all crimes, robbery in particular, and how he puzzled them and then preached to them. We spent a very pleasant evening, sitting round the fire, discussing, besides these adventures, books and the Chinese language.
Often and often, when my high spirits make me prominent among my companions, in fun, frolic, or adventure, I deeply upbraid myself for levity, and feel the danger I incur of encouraging some bad propensity in others, although my innermost heart may be free from any wicked desire. I am often in peril of doing or saying things which may be a stumbling-block to others and a scourge of remorse to myself; but I am too devotedly attached to the love-difiPusing precepts of our Saviour to be an ascetic, and so lose the chance of doing real good to any- body in need of it, by withdrawing altogether from general society.
Mr. Margary returned to Shanghae early in 1874. The following letters are dated from that port.
Shanghae, April 1874. — You must not take a sailor's view of Shanghae for anything, for such time as they spend in such places as this must be wearisome to the last degree. There being no public institutions for the benefit of strangers, they must pass their time in wretched solitude on board their ships, knowing nobody, seeing nothing, and working in the sun. But, for a resident, it is generally found to be a very delightful place. We have all
74 MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
the best improvements of civilisation, good wide roads, handsome houses, gas-lamps, policemen, a fine theatre, cricket-ground, race-course, racket-court, drives and rides, a large man-of-war in harbour, heaps of shipping, a little volunteer army, an ex- cellent philharmonic society, an Asiatic society, with lectures, a club, a library, a magnificent church, a perfect jail, rates and taxes, fire brigades, police-court, judge, jury, mosquitoes, and dinner-parties. And if all that does not make Shanghae deserve its name of a model settlement, we can still point to docks, river steamers on the American palatial type (a mountain of glass), brigades, bands, telegraph, post- offices, and even the little red post-cart, carriages for hire, and gin-rick-a-shas, which some individual has managed to introduce from Japan. Six of us rattled down in these funny little vehicles, along the bimd to the theatre, last night.
Shanghae, May 5th, 1874. — I have to relate a won- derful piece of excitement through which we have passed, and which will, no doubt, have been flashed home by the wires as a startling piece of intelligence. The French have had a scrimmage with the Chinese — a purely local dispute. With their usual pride, they reserved the boundaries of their own concession district distinct from that of the English and other nations ; and we have known, for some time, that they were engaged in a dispute with a native guild of Ningpo merchants about a road which interfered with their graveyards, and that tlie dispute had led
SHANGHAI. 75
to a demonstration of the members of the guild. On Sunday afternoon, while walking in the recreation gardens, we were startled by the alarm of the fire-bell, and in a few minutes, as usual, our prompt firemen turned out with their engines, but, to our surprise, were ordered back very quickly, and disbanded. We then learned that a fight was going on in the French settlement.
I betook myself to the spot with all alacrity. I found the French police at their magnificent muni- cipal hall, fuming and fretting with bayonets fixed, and, on inquiry, learned that they had had a scrim- mage with the mob, and had been forced to retire after firing and killing a Chinaman. The mob, they said, had attacked and gutted a foreign house, so I immediately went to see the fun. I found that our excellent English police had quietly effected, unarmed, what the hated Frenchmen could not do with shot and bayonet. They were in possession of the house, -and quietly removing all the saveable furniture. I mounted the stairs of the gutted house, and stood on a balcony, looking down on a marvellous scene.
Inspector stood there giving his orders, and the
mandarin stood by him. Below us, on an open green, were the upturned faces of from two to three thou- sand rioters, and in their midst the body of the victim to French precipitancy. " They mean mis- chief to-night," quoth Inspector . I spoke to
Chill Hsien, the mandarin, and remarked that, as he had arrived with a few soldiers, I presumed his
76 MARGAETS JOURNEY.
presence would prevent any further outbreak, but he rephed that he was going to call on the French consul first, of course, to " Strang leang," which, being interpreted, means to " waste time in consult- ing." Thinking there would be little more to do, I returned home to dinner at our settlement a mile away. But we had not begun before a big lurid glare in the south set all the fire-bells and gongs going like mad, and everyone rushed out to do his duty, after a hasty meal, the boys muddling the dinner most frightfully. Hastening over to the French side, I met several foreigners returning ; each one had some absurd tale about the danger of crossing the creek which divides our settlement from the French. By this time an order had been sent out to call in the volunteers, and they were then forrning at head-quarters, in my rear, and most of the com- munity were there, so that as I approached the scene of action, I met scarcely half-a-dozen Europeans. I went up right through the crowd, with three other men, and saw the whole fire. The rioters had set a large block ablaze ; the house where I had stood that afternoon was a perfect ruin. The mob had been dispelled somewhere, and, at each corner, stood an excited band of Frenchmen with all sorts of weapons. Passing them, we went beyond, to where we found the crowd, some of whom were breaking a lamp. I stepped up to them and told them it was dangerous to meddle with gas. They laughed at me but did not attempt to assault us. Just then, we saw
SHANGHAE. 77
the French deliberately fire into the mob down a cross street ; we were indignant ; but, as the proximity was getting a little too hot, we made our- selves scarce. We then went back to our settlement, and found three or four hundred volunteers falling in, the most exaggerated reports of an attack, and I don't know what not ! I told them I had just been in the very thick of the mob, and walked all round the spot, unharmed. Meanwhile the consul, who was only waiting for a request from the French for aid, and got it, marched down the volunteers, and restored order in no time. Next day all was quiet. For fear, however, of a repetition of the incendiarism at night, it was agreed that a signal of four guns from the man-of-war should call out the volunteers ; and the private signal to the ship was to be the hoisting of two lanterns at the French Consulate. Well, about 9.30 p.m. I was in the theatre looking on at a dress rehearsal of a performance which, by the way, takes place to-night. All of a sudden we were hushed by a gun. The scene was grand. Imagine the excitement ; the actors pause, another gun ! Blood tingles ! In eager discussion, whether it might not be the American mail after all, we are hushed by a third gun. A listening attitude, flash- ing eyes, and then a simultaneous shout of "Four!'' and pell-mell, out we tore, dresses, wigs, and proper- ties flung to the winds ; the poor female characters fearfully entangled in skirts and pins, and clawing off their clothes. In less than twentv minutes some
78 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
four or five hundred men were in line, all equipped in uniform and properly armed. 1 never saw such magnificent promptitude ; a little army raised in twenty minutes, or less. I felt proud, and eager for the fray, but, would you believe it, all this grand ex- citement, all this life-stirring ardour, was the result of a miserable false alarm ! This afternoon, a meet- ing of the foreign consuls with one of the highest mandarins of the province took place at the consu- late, and I interpreted for them. We talked over the riot, and insisted on a proclamation. The Chinese authorities have all thanked us for assisting them to restore order.
The mandarin proved to be a very sensible, jolly fellow ; one of the best we have ever had to do with here, and all went as smooth as oil. It is most diffi- cult work to interpret concisely the ideas of another person, when they are put in verbose language. . . . We sat round in a semicircle, as usual, and cham- pagne, tea, and biscuits were handed round. When an interview takes place at the mandarin's " yamen " (or office), we follow their custom, and sit in a rectangular arrangement. The two chiefs of each side occupy a divan with cushions, and their respective staffs range themselves in very square chairs, at right angles to the great men, in due order of precedence, their proximity to the august chiefs diminishing with their nothingness. A square table fits in between each set of two chairs, whereon tea and refreshments are served. . . .
SHANGHAE. 79
I had nearly forgotten to tell you that I dined a la Chmois, on the night of the alarm, with a mandarin who sits in tlie mixed court of this settlement. He gave a capital spread, and invited every one of us from the consulate, but only three of us went.
Ma7/ dt/i, 1874. — I am going on a little pleasure trip on Monday. We shall run down to a port called Ningpo, close by, and go up the creeks in the consular house-boats al! among the lovely hills. . . .
Ningpo, Tuesday, May I2tli.-^lt is just a night's trip down here. We went on board yesterday at 4 P.M., and dined at six, as we went up the mighty Yangtsze, and turned in, to wake up at the mouth of this lovely part of the world. . . .
Shangliae, May 21st. — We had two boats of the class called house-boats. The ladies occupied one, and the gentlemen the other. These boats are cleverly fitted up with two berths, and a small space for ablutions ; and all this is separated by a door from the front compartment, which is arranged for eating purposes. The boatmen filled the rear, where they would pack themselves like herrings in a barrel, with marvellous discomfort. Our programme was to move from place to place during the nighty and ramble out among the hills and valleys during the day. We first visited a famous monastery, perched up in a wild mountain, covered with large trees and ferns, azaleas blooming in dazzling pro- fusion. The monks assembled in their great hall, and chanted a weird service through, in a quick
80 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
monotone. They were all dressed in yellow, like the Lamas of Thibet. Some were very earnest and devotional ; others chatted and laughed freely with us, while on their knees, and seemed highly delighted at my reading off some characters which one pointed to in his missal, by way of examining me. We lounged about and sat at the bottom of a gorge, in the middle of a running brook, on some big stones. The road itself to this place was very picturesque. A long avenue filled one part ; we had to go seven miles from the boats, and the ladies were carried in mountain-chairs. At one point, we were at the summit of a peak, from which the river flowed down on each side, with a fearful declivity. The Chinese have no simple locks, and^ in passing from the river into the canals, the boats are bodily pulled over an embankment, and slid down the other side. It is a curious process. I recollect very well the first time I passed over one was in the dead of night, and I was waked up to a consciousness of standing on my head ; my legs appeared to be playing a practical joke on me while I slept ; but, being utterly bewil- dered, it took me some time to find out what on earth was happening to the boat. After visitiug this lovely spot, we spent a long wet day in miserable progress to another favourite resort, and, when we arrived there, the weather held up beautifully, per- mitting us to make daily excursions from our boat for four days. We visited several lovely gorges, and each evening managed to come floating down the
SHANGHAE. 81
rapids in the cool sunset, for several miles, nntil we reached our boat and enjoyed a good dinner. The night, I must say, I looked upon with horror, for the dreadful mosquitoes never let me close my eyes. . . . There was one particular spot which is perfectly en- chanting. After ascending a narrowing gorge for two hours, almost hidden in fragrant verdure and water leaping down alongside, we reached a heavenly spot. A most beautiful wavy, sloping waterfall dropped into a glorious deep pool of clear cool water fringed by a lip of smooth rock, made to sit upon.
Shanghae, June Itli. — I went, yesterday, with our consul, to pay a visit to a large Chinese theatre, where a very clever European conjuror is giving a series of performances. Professor Van Eyk (or a name somewhat similar to that) came here some weeks ago, and amused large audiences in our own theatre. I went and enjoyed his legerdemain very much. He was then offered about 5000 dollars by the proprietor of the large native theatre we have in the settlement, to give about thirty performances ; and our object in going was to watch the effect of his tricks upon a Chinese " house," and we were well repaid, and immensely amused by the sight. The proprietor was most civil, and, recognising our consul, at once conducted us with every mark of respect through the seated multitude, and gave us excellent seats in a front gallery, such as would
G
82 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
correspond to the position of dress-circle at home ; nor would he receive any payment from us. There were two prices, all the best seats being a dollar, and the next, half a dollar. These being very high prices for a Chinese audience, the company before us was very select. I was pleased to see so many well- dressed, well-behaved, and, in many instances, elderly and aged gentlemen patronising the foreign conjuror. The house was crowded, and being arranged in regular rows of seats, I should say there were not far short of a thousand present. Ordinarily at their own theatrical performances little square tables are dotted about the hall, whereon tea is served, and the playgoers sit at these much as English rustics at pleasure gardens. The price is very low, and the poorest coolies flock in to while away the time with their tea and pipes while listening to the horrid din of their characteristic orchestra and the falsetto screeching of their boy songstresses. I have been sometimes to these performances. I dare say you have heard how they go on for hours. Sometimes, in a village, where periodical visits are paid by strolling players, the performance is literally carried on for two or three days and nights. As soon as one play is done, another commences without delay ; no scenery or preparation being required, except the actors' dressing. The orchestra of gongs and horrid discordant lutes sifs on the stage behind the actors, and attendants run in and out with tea to refresh the
SHANGHAE. 83
actors themselves. It is rather amusing to see the way they take it. An apology for an observance of the proprieties of the stage is attempted by the actor liolding up his arm on the side next the andience and imbibing his tea under cover of his hanging sleeve. But the act, though covered, is perfectly patent to all ; it makes one laugh. In the present instance, as I said, the price being heavy, we had no coolies in the house, but row upon row of well-to-do Chinamen in clean white silk robes. Their pig-tails presented - rather a comical view, shown up, as they were, by the white ground. Chinese never take their women kind to theatres, and I dare say it astonislied them to see a couple of foreign women walk in and take their seats among the rest. We recognised them as members of our very limited bourgeoiserie. . . .
We immediately entered into conversation with the men about us. My immediate neighbour was a Tientsin man, and a bit of a philosopher. He gave me his views on the comparison of foreigners with his own countrymen. He was very melancholy over the poverty of his nation. I pointed below, and said, " Just look at that ciowd of moneyed men," He shook his head, and said, " They have not much, and if a man has a fortune," added he, " how soon it gets dissipated by the multiplication of relations." I was pleased to get some frank, original ideas from a native. It is very true that Chinese families do not
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84 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
separate. The daughters alone go out of the house. All the sons, with their additional famihes, continue to live under the paternal roof. Well, the professor was a great success. His pantomimic explanations were intensely amusing to us, and more so his occa- sional utterances, gibberish incantations, and, above all, his polite appeals to " Ladies and Gentlemen." The spectators showed great appreciation, and often clapped their hands, which is a species of applause quite new to Chinese, but one which they appear to be learning from us and taking kindly to.
June 15th. — I have often mentioned the Recreation Grounds, but never described them sufficiently. Be- tween our beautiful grounds* and the river on the other side of the bund road, which separates it from us, is a plot of land which was once a muddy bank of the river, but which the energy and public spirit of the community converted into lawns and flower- beds, which are now kept up to a high state of per- fection, and numbers take advantage of its open position to sit out there on the hot summer nights. An amateur band will soon resume their long- established custom of playing there once a week. All the community stroll about, or sit out on their own, or public chairs, during the performance ; and, in the dim glimmer of gas-light, one finds a great deal of amusement watching one's neighbours, and finding out those one knows.
* The gai"(lens of the consulate.
SHANGIIAE. 85
June 30th. — I have just returned from a very plea- sant evening spent on the water. It was hot, and we quite enjoyed the cool breeze of the river fanning us as we dined ; and afterwards we were charmed by the music of our Wednesday band, which came float- ing over the water to us as we lay anchored close by. Many boats were round us, and we could see the promenade kept up on shore. The musicians played very well. Their winding-up galop made us long for more space to dance on our little deck.
Jiili/ 3rd. — The night before last there was a night parade of the volunteers at 9 p.m. I turned out with my old corps, called the " Mihiloongs," in whose ranks I have not stood for three years nearly. It was hot, but we enjoyed the exercise greatly, rhey marched us out about two miles into the country, and we skirmished by moonlight, and fired blank cartridges to our hearts' content, and rather to the astonishment of the villagers. I could not help laughing at the puzzled looks of a whole village when we dashed through its streets at that late hour and roused all the inmates out of their beds. They came trembling out to look at us, with very little on to bless themselves with.
I have had my time very fully occupied, and have stayed at home beyond office hours to study questions connected with the trade of the port, as I have been deputed to write a branch of the Trade Report. I like responsible work, and this writing a
86 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
report on the whole trade of a year is exceedingly interesting to me. I have also undertaken to translate Pekin Gazettes for the Evening Coioner.
July 10th. — Last night, a whole party of ns went to the circus together, tearing along in a line of gin-rick-a-shas. It is most absurd to see grown-up people getting into magnified perambulators, and being whirled off at full speed by two half-naked coolies. In Japan, they run away witli you any- where, without stopping to ask whither, and a stranger gets rather flabbergasted to find himself W'hizzed away from the rest of his party, and utterly unable to stop or to guide his runaways. And we are fast getting into that way here ; for the usual practice is to turn down the streets you w^ant by just touching your coolie on his right or left arm with the end of your stick. So accustomed are they to your driving them the way you wish, that one or two have lately trundled about for hours with the blissful unconsciousness of their " fare " having fallen fast asleep. . . . The circus was certainly a great novelty, and although we all pointed to the children and enjoyed their amazement, methought that was all very fine, but that we elders fiequently stared with all our eyes too. A large sprinkling of Cliinese betrayed a considerable amount of astonishment at the feats.
Jidi/ loth. — I walked out to the cricket ground to get some exercise, but finding some friends at a
SHANGHAE. 87
wicket, I bowled for a while, and got a bit of an innings to boot, A fine breeze was playing across the ground, and a couple of ladies with some atten- dant gentlemen were attracted by it to come over and sit by the pavilion in easy cane chairs, of which we have an abundant supply for visitors. Our cricket ground is as perfect as anything of the kind at home, and it is in the middle of a wide open space which was bought by a large public fund, called the Recreation Fund, and intended for purposes of re- creation only ; so that however much they may build all round, this fine space will always remain free and open. Shanghae is growing so fast that this boon will soon begin to be felt. Another safeguard against encroachment is, that the race-course completely surrounds it. It is in an oval shape and measures just a mile and a quarter. People often walk round this and ride too. The drive in from this open space, which lies between the settlement proper and a row of bungalows stretching out for three miles along the Bubbling Well Road, is (ordinarily) a very pic- turesque street called the Maloo. Fortunately, it was made as wide as Oxford Street, at least, or we should have felt the inconvenience of passing through a Chinese population on our main drive. Chinese shops line both sides of this wide maloo, and customers swarm as busy as bees among them. We are content to relinquish the pavements to the elbowing crowd, and walk along the middle of the road in spite
88 MAEGARY'S JOUENEY.
of furious driving to and fro. But in this hot weather I must say this Hvely street is anything but picturesque, for our Celestial friends have a supreme contempt for false modesty, and prefer comfort to appearances.
July 31.9^. — I have just, by luck, got in for the most delightful expedition imaginable, and I have only an hour to pack up in and appear on board the steamer. A party is just starting to cruise among the Chusan Islands, to find one suited for a sanatorium, and I go to rej^resent the consul. The American Consul- general and others form the expedition, so T hope to have good fun. We shall only Ije away till Tuesday morning (the 3rd).
August (Jth. — I rushed off to the Ningpo steamer on Saturday, which, of course, delayed a whole hour in starting, and made me hurry to no particular purpose. I met the American Consul-general, who was the promoter and organiser of the expedition, and after shaking hands with him, proceeded with much curiosity to find out who were members of our party. ... I observed the Yankees were in great force. . . . All these American steamers are arranged with a view to personal comfort. Unlike ours, the saloon is placed in the bows, a most grateful arrange- ment in this hot weather, by which the fresh wind blows directly into your cabin, and all the smells and sailors are put aft. . . . Our party to Ningpo by the steamer Shaiisi at first appeared likely to j^i'ove
SHANGHAE. 89
dull and staid. But this grave heaviness naturally rubbed off after a bit, and though we never rose to any supreme effort of jollity, there was much quiet enjoyment in store for the party.
AVe could not go direct to the islands, as the steamer had cargo to deliver at Ningpo ; but as she arrived there very early, everything in the way of business was disposed of by half-past six, and then with an accession to our party, the good ship's nose was turned down the river again, and we steamed away for the open sea. The Ningpo river itself is full of interest. First of all, on each side, the eye is refreshed with the rich green and yellow of the trees and fields, and this is backed up by the sombre tints of the mountains. The country lay mapped out before us, and I could easily distinguish the whereabouts of the peaks which overlooked those lovely spots we visited in the spring. Then, as we approached the mouth of the river (it is only a run of five miles from settle- ment down), we looked down on tlie forts and the heights, which our soldiers stormed in 1842—52 or thereabouts. A small walled city lies at the entrance of the river, overlooked by a remarkable eminence like the Acropolis at Athens. This commanding mound lias a large temple on its summit, and it was up here that we left a small garrison to hold the conquered district. It was so curious to look on the now quiet scene and be told how red coats lined those heights, or swarmed up this hill, in all the
90 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
excitement of battle. The people round soon learned to pick up a few words, and invented an odd, mixed- iip sort of lingo, with which they held some sort of communication with the soldiers. These latter went by the name of "I says." They would say, " Oh! here comes an ' I say,' " which shows how quickly they noted the commonest expressions in soldiers' mouths.
Hea23s of big junks lay at anchor. Some carried large quantities of timber, which was piled up on deck, and overflowed the sides in such a way that the boat looked like a huge timber raft, nothing being- left to view of the actual hull but her head and stern. There is something exceedingly comical about the look of these timber junks, and one watches them with great interest on every possible occasion. They are very clever in arranging the poles to follow the sweeping lines of the junks, and these are brought up to a poiut at the head, so as to present no obstacle to the sea.
Islands commence at the very mouth of the river, so that we had the pleasure of moving in and out, for a short space, before laying our course for the open, for a certain Napier Island, which was our destination. The sky was lovely, and the sea as calm as a pond, and of a lovely pea-soup consistency, yellow as mud could make it. These Chinese rivers roll down such volumes of mud and clay in solution, that the sea is discoloured for miles away. We
SHANGHAE. 91
steamed away till 2 p.m., lounging on deck in long easy chairs, talking, or reading. Napier Island was close at hand, and heaps of little islands lay all about. There were no trees on them, only grass covered the high slopes. Teeming villages of fishermen peeped out of sheltered nooks, and one might have envied their calm seclusion, hut for the knowledge of their crimes, for it was but a narrow border that lay be- tween fishing and piracy, whenever they got the chance. We pulled up first in a choice bay and landed. The whole party then proceeded to walk up to the top, which was rather hot work. We could not see enough beach to make a good bathing-place for ladies, and there was nothing particular to re- commend that place, so back we went on board, racing the two boats which the Chinamen pulled re- markably well ; got up anchor and proceeded to Napier Island.
The sea was full of red gelatinous-looking crea- tures, which looked half worm half sea- weed, and wherever they lay on shore most tempting they looked, with a brilliant ruby hue and barley-sugar- like aj)pearance. We rambled all over the island, and examined it with a view to its fitness for a sanatorium. Many little beaches lay below us on both sides, which we looked at with eager desire, for as soon as the sun went down we intended having a jolly good bathe. Quite a large village appeared all of a sudden in one bend, and the whole population stared with
92 MAEGARY'S JOURNEY.
great astonisliment at the strange figures in white stalking along on the brow of the hill above them. After strolling all round we returned to our beach and proceeded with feelings of inexpressible delight to prepare for the water. If ever that spot is en- livened hereafter with graceful figures drying their hair, and children digging sand pies with wooden spades, I shall recall with keen amusement the open- ing scene of the budding sanatorium, a dozen big men scrambling into the water at different points, happy as children. When it got dark we started back for Ningpo and arrived early in the morning, left the same day at four, and got back to Shanghae on Tuesday at 6 a.m.
NOTES
A JOURNEY
HANKOW TO TA-LI F U,
COMPILED FROM THE OFFICIAL JOURNAL AND PRIVATE LETTERS
OF THE LATE
AUGUSTUS RAYMOND MARGARY,
CHINA CONSULAR SERVICE.
On the 9th of August while at Shaughae Mr. Margary received notice of his appointment to cross China, and meet Colonel Browne's Mission. In compliance with his instructions, he kept a journal on the route, and the portion of it which records his experiences as far as Ta-li Fu has been saved, and is now published with the sanction of the Government. There are various gaps in it, which have been filled up as far as possible by extracts from his private letters. The remainder was probably with him when he was murdered.
For completeness' sake, an itinerary has been appended to the journal.
SHANGHAE. 97
Shanghae, August 9t/i. — A magnificent opportunity of distinguishing myself has just been opened to me, and I am sure it will please you very much to know how great an honour has heen lately conferred upon me in connection with it. I am appointed to the very duty I was longing for and wrote ahout in my last letter to you, namely, that of accompanying the Indian expedition which is to enter China through Burmah and survey a new route for commerce. Direct orders have not yet arrived. Mr. Medhurst received orders to breathe a word of it to no one, and I have instructions to make every preparation with all secresy, and to hold myself in readiness to go to Hankow (five hundred miles up the Yangtsze) and to start from there on or ahout the 1st of Septeml)er, so that I have but a short notice to prepare for a three months' trip ; for I am afraid it will be as long- as that, at the very shortest computation ; but I shall be able to send a letter from the interior now and then, as I proceed, for the Chinese have an excellent postal system all over the empire, so that, I am happy to say, you will not be deprived of all news of me.
And now let me tell you that this order is not final. Its carrying out depends upon the arrival of a telegram from the Viceroy of India to say whether I am to start or not. However, T firmly believe we
H
98 MAEGAKY'S JOURNEY.
shall have the telegram in a day or two to say " go ahead," and I shall go with joy and alacrit}^
Friday, 14:th — A telegram from Calcutta did arrive on Wednesday night, directed, contrary to onr expectation, to Mr. Wade, so that Mr. Medhurst had to send it up to Pekin uno|3ened, and we shall not know for ten days what is decided. I am inclined to think the expedition has been abandoned, or the telegram would have come to Mr. Medhurst. Won't it be a horrible sell for me ! We have suggested to the minister that it would save time and money to send me by sea to Mandalay, to join the expedition at its starting-point, instead of toiling overland some seven or eight hundred miles through a new country untrodden by foreigners.
To his Parents. Saturday, 15^A.— My instructions arrived this morning with warm and flattering letters from Mr. Wade and his secretaries, together with passports and Chinese despatches from the Imperial Foreign officials. The plan adopted is to send me overland from this side to the Western borders of the province of Yunnan, there to wait at one of the passes for four Indian officers who are to come over from a place called Bhamo near the upper sources of the Irrawaddy or Irawady. I am provided with huge Chinese despatches from the Tsungli yam en at Pekin to three governor-generals who rule the vast territories through which I shall pass. These letters direct
SHANGHAE. 99
them to take every care of me, and to issue orders to all their magistrates and officers along my route to protect and help me on. I shall pass over about nine hundred miles of country, of which some five hundred will be new ground. I have to keep an official journal and an itinerary, and everything will be published. The trip is calculated to last six months. At any rate I shall be completely buried out of sight till the end of November, and shall probably hear no news of you or the world in general till next year. Only think what a glorious opportunity T shall liave of seeing this wonderful country, and of bringing to light numerous facts as yet unknown, from regions untrodden by foreigners. It is really splendid ; you cannot think how elated I am. I am provided with a cook, an official messenger, and a writer. Every thing is to be kept an entire secret, and I find this the hardest part of the J0I3. I have to buy all my provisions for the journey, and slip away without a soul knowing it outside. Mr. Wade dreads any in- caution on the part of the papers, which would seriously hamper my movements by getting wrong notions into the head of the Chinese. I have only a week to prepare in, but that is amply sufficient, and prol)ably next Saturday not one of my friends will suspect that I have gone on board the river steamer to start on my long, long journey. I go up to Hankow first, which is five hundred miles up the Yangtsze. These American river palaces do the trip in three days. Two ports are open between,
H 2
100 MAKGARY'S JOURNEY.
Chinkiang, where I have been before, and Kinkiang, where I have not yet been. At the latter place I " stop two turns " to consult the vice-consul, Mr. King, about my route, and then proceed in the fol- lowing steamer to Hankow. There, my final pre- parations will be made to start as early in September as possible. You had better get a good map of China. Dr. Williams' is the best, I think, and you will be able to follow my movements very well. The course of the Yangtsze will indicate some six hundred miles of it, probably, so that I shall have ascended some one thousand miles of this mighty river. The return trip through China will be pleasant enough in com- pany with the Indian officers I shall meet. They may however elect to return to Burmah, in which case I shall visit that wonderful country also. ^ I am having some rare old missionary charts of the provinces I pass through photographed. They will be of invaluable use to me. It will be intensely in- teresting to me to see and speak to some of those great viceroys, who rule their provinces like petty kings ; but I doubt if I shall be so honoured ; they will probably refer me to lesser lights. In any case, it will be very instructive to carry on correspondence with them. I have only to pray for health and strength to carry me through, and there is no doubt I shall have had the privilege of doing some service to the world at large. I must be off now to see to my equipment. I spend all the day at the stores, making out lists and estimates, and adding this, that.
SHANGHAE. 101
and the other necessary as it occurs to me. To-day I am after medicines. I must also see to a good pair of field-glasses. You must picture me standing alone on the heights of the Momein pass, far away on the Burmese frontier, and anxiously scanning the country beyond for the first glimpse of Indian helmets ap- proaching from the West. Then you can picture the meeting, China and India grasping hands, and awakening those primeval echoes with a British hurrah over the fait accompli. As it happens, the telegrams have failed in the most important particular, and we cannot make out which pass they intend to traverse ; but I shall find them out some- how, or else I will worry the Viceroy of Yunnan out of all peace and quiet.
Friday^ August 2ist. — I am going to start off to- morrow night for Hankow, if possible. My orders appear now to be very complete. 1 have had further despatches to-day from Mr. Wade telling me the names of the Indian officers and the pass they intend to come over. A Colonel Browne is at the head of it, and Dr. Anderson, whose name is familiar in connection with previous expeditions, is one of the party, and Mr. Ney Elias. A guard of thirty soldiers accompanies them to the frontiers of China, after which I am to take charge of them and bring them back by the way I go to meet them. The soldiers are not to enter China.
Shanghae, August 2 2nd, 1874. — My darling Mother, — I am so sorry not to be able to write more this
102 MAEGAEY'S JOUENEY.
mail. Everything has to be done in such a tearing hurry, and I have to rush about from one place to another buying things. I am going to write leisurely on board the steamer going up the river. I start to night, and it takes nearly four days to get up to Hankow. It is so hot I am hardly able to write, and my boy is packing my books, and I have to keep an eye on him to see that he puts the right things at
the top. The M 's are so kind to me. He has
lent me his invaluable servant, a man who knows every inch of the country and is full of expedients. It is a long, and, to a certain extent, a perilous journey. I can't disguise that fact, and that for three months I shall be beyond the reach of all news of the outer world. You must picture me trudging on through strange cities, stared at by pig-tailed mobs. At times sitting in Eastern etiquette with native governors and viceroys, and lastly, you may look at the map and fancy you see a solitary European standing above the last pass on the borders of China, and anxiously gazing through his binoculars for the advent of Indian helmets from the West. You know, dearest, I have trust in God, and fear nothing. Best love to all. Your own loving Gus.
On hoard the S.S. 'Hirado ' up the Yangtsze, Sunday^ August 2Zrd. — I started on my trip yesterday, and am now on board one of those wonderful struc- tures which ' the Americans first adopted for the navigation of their mighty rivers. The last thing this vessel reseml)les is a ship. You see no masts.
ON THE YANGTSZE. 103
but only two gigantic funnels, which are often placed one in front of each paddle box. Tier upon tier of cabins appear to be built upon the smallest possible hull, and the general appearance of the vessel is that of a gaudy palace of pleasure, full of windows and terraces floating on the water. In the centre you see the great lever of the beam engine oscillating backwards and forwards like a gigantic see-saw. This is what is called the " Walking Beam." The cabins are large and roomy. I see one on the opposite side to mine containing a large four-post bedstead. This mighty river, steeped in yellow mud, is not particularly interesting just here. The banks are low, and almost out of sight, so that I have nothing to attract me up on deck. We shall reach the first river port, called Chinkiang in the middle of the night, but, as I have been there before, it will make no difference to me whether 1 see it ag-ain or not. A wide desolation marks the spot which is very depressing to look at. The Taiping rebels had possession of the place, and their heavy hand is witnessed to by the many acres of brickbats which mark the site of a once busy city. I shall feel no small degree of interest in having a sight of the great and famous old city of Nankin which we shall pass to-morrow. There the rebels established their power, and marked it by knocking down the far- renowned porcelain tower, which we used to read of with wonder at school. By-and-by^ as we pass farther up, and the huge river narrows, I am told
104 MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
some beautiful scenery opens out, and I shall perhaps be attracted to the deck the greater part of the time. We shall reach the second Treaty-port called Kin- kiaug on Tuesday. How wonderful it is that we have now a daily service of large, powerful, com- fortable steamers ploughing up and down this great river, for seven hundred miles, which, shortly before I came to China, was hermetically sealed to foreign vessels. Our fleet of mighty men of war first forced its way up in 1842, and nothing could be done till 1862 in the way of fairly opening up the river. They say the Yangtsze carries in its bosom enough mud to give a coating of yellow to the whole of Euroj)e. Islands of no mean size are formed in an incredibly short space of time, and the very passage through which our 74-gunships passed at Chinkiang in 1842 is now highland, connecting a certain Silver Island with the mainland. I think I had better tell you about my departure from Shanghae now, before plunging into history and geograpliy, but I must first find a quieter portion of the ship, as the vibration is too much to allow of my writing.
August 24:th. — I have now found a steadier table, and am feeling better myself. I have had a long spell of l:)ad health in Shanghae, without any positive sign of sickness. The fact is, as I know now for certain, that I have been under the wearing influence of Shanghae fever, which is very subtle. It is an intermittent fever, and if one's constitution is strong enough, like mine, to resist it, the silent
ON THE YANGTSZE. 105
enemy continues its creeping attacks, until the mischief is detected by loss of flesh, and emaciation. I have been working too hard, and sitting out too much in evening breezes, the result of which was a loss of fourteen or fifteen pounds, which I was startled to discover the other day. It is not pleasant to have to start on my stupendous journey after such a pull down, but every mile away from Shanghae has been adding strength and vigour to my spirits and frame, and I have no doubt, under the quiet, regular regime of a traveller's life, I shall feel as blithe as a lark.
I shall be, perhaps, three months reaching the frontier town of Seng-Yuen-Fu, which you will no doubt find marked on the atlas, as the most westerly town in China. Its other name is Momein. From Hankow, which is in the very centre of China, and which place this steamer will reach to-morrow, I start in a native boat, and follow up the course of the mighty Yangtsze, through the province of Sz'chuen, past the wonderful gorges and rapids of Ichang, on through Chung-khing, lat 29° 30', long. 107° E., and then bending down to Yunnan-Fu, in lat. 25° 30' long, 102° E., and from thence almost due west to a Chinese border town, called Yung- Chang-Fu. At this place, where the roads through two different passes converge, I am to pause and determine whether the party has had time to reach Momein, and, if possible, I am to push on there to meet tliem. I suppose by the time I return, 1 shall
106 MARGAEY'S JOURNEY.
have passed over some five thousand miles of country. The letters and passes furnished me hy the Imperial Cabinet will command respect from all the officials, high and low, throughout my route ; so that, though no doubt innumerable schemes may be devised to hinder my progress, I shall be hedged around with protection. Is it not a splendid mission ? What wonderful things I shall see ! Some of the mountain scenery in that marvellously rich province of Yun- nan is very beautiful. I cannot cease to regret that my talents for sketching are so very poor.
I have had but little time to prepare for a trip of six months. It may last as long as that, for they hint at the possibility of my waiting for the expedi- tion, perhaps for a whole month, in which case I shall hope to have grand sport in the forests and mountains, which teem with wild life. In spite of the short notice, I think I am pretty well provided with clothes, and tinned provisions, weapons and instruments.
It is impossible to say when you may hear from me. I shall try and make use of the native post, which is a very efficient service, but how far it may be safe for foreign correspondence remains to be proved. It may be that not a word will be heard of me the whole time, in which case, all sorts of rumours may arise as to my fate. Let me beg of you not to believe one ; rest assured I will make my way there and back, by God's help, as safe as a trivet.
ON THE YANGTSZE. 107
In spite of all my elation, and the fact of my preparations having been completed, and of my having actually started up the Yangtsze, there is yet a possibility of an order following me to stop. For a very suspicious-looking telegram in cypher came from the viceroy last week, to which we could only get a reply from Pekin about now, and the very next steamer behind me may be bringing up instructions to go no farther.
It was troublesome having to keep all my prepara- tions so secret. I have not been able to say good- bye to heaps of my friends, and on Saturday night, after a quiet dinner at the Consulate, I sneaked down the bund at midnight in a gin-rick-a-sha, holding a new dog in a leash, and followed by Bombazine, my old boy, whom 1 have picked up again, and employed for this trip.
Mr. Medhurst has kindly lent me an invaluable person, who has been in his employ for many years ; a sort of confidential rascal, who will do anything, go anywhere, and is never at a loss for an expedieijt. He knows the greater part of the country through which I am to pass, having been repeatedly sent out in search of golden pheasants and other rare curiosities. If I should happen to be ill anywhere, or come to grief in any way, this man will be back to Hankow in a twinkling and bring the news. He rejoices in the nickname of Leila, which the children gave him years ago, by mistake for the common call with which servants are summoned in China. Much
108 MARGARY'S JOURNEY.
as if in India one were to call a man Zui-hi. But the name lias stuck to him.
After a warm farewell from Mr. Medhurst, I started off with a heavy heart. Leila, in his zeal, had carried off every one of my hats with the luggage, and I had to tie my handkerchief round my head, as the night was damp and miasmatic. Passing by the club, which was flaring with gas at every windo^v^, I saw the white-coated figures of the late birds, some poring over the mail papers in their luxurious library, others finishing up their billiards in a higher storey. I hurried on like a fugitive, and hid my face from one or two friends strolling home from a dinner somewhere, for I did not want to waste time in explanations, or to be hindered by post- prandial larks. It was quite painful to feel I was going away on a great journey, and yet could not take a warm farewell of my friends. Arrived at the end of the magnificent bund, which stretches for a mile and a half in front of lordly houses, I had only to step across a pontoon on to one of those American river palaces which plough up and down the huge river, and which I have described to you before. My cabin was big enough to do on shore in England. I was met with marked respect from the officer on watch.
" Are you Mr. Margary, sir ? "
" Yes."
"All right, sir."
" Here, steward, show Mr. Margary No. 1 cabin."
" I'll look after your dog, sir."
ON THE YANGTSZE. 109
" All right, good night ; " and before I awoke, Shanghae was out of sight. And now we have been " coughing " up the muddy sea for the best part of three daj^s. Mark Twain uses the above expression to describe the peculiar soughing noise which these " Walking Beam " engines emit at every revolution. One almost pities the monster, and feels irresistibly impelled to clear one's throat to help the poor asthmatic creature.
We stopped at Chinkiang on Sunday night to discharge cargo and passengers, and a most disagree- able interruption to one's sleep it proved.
The scenery has been flat the whole way up. This afternoon, however, mountains begin to appear, and there will be much to look at from this point.
I was very much interested yesterday, in gazing on the wonderful old city of Nankin. It was here that the last great struggle took place to eradicate the Taiping rebels. Its mighty, grim, dirty old walls were built into the sides of the hills which skirted the northern front of the city for some miles. Nothing could be seen but these grim battlements ; but I could picture Colonel Gordon occupying those heights around, and the fearful and atrocious massacre which the Imperialists subse- quently perpetrated around those walls, was enough to sicken one to contemplate. The captain had some stories to tell of fearful sights he had seen going up and down the river at that time in the Chinese service. He pointed to the low lying banks
110 MARG ART'S JOURNEY.
on the opposite side of the river, which was not so very wide at that point, and told iis how he had seen thousands stampeding across those plains, and striving to escape in crowded boats from their pursuers, and hacking each other down unmercifully in their selfishness and frenzy to escape.
We have a great man on board, no less a person than the Governor of the Province of Canton. We have had him to dinner, and the captain was very glad I was here to talk to him. The manager of the company had given orders to the captain to show every attention to H. E., but as the latter, with the usual piggishness of his country, rejected the best cabins, and chose to ensconce himself in the after hold ! it was not so easy to please him. How- ever he accepted the invitation to dinner, and made himself very agreeable, specially after dinner, when we sat out in the bows, and enjoyed the fresh air. His spirits seemed to rise, and he remarked to his attendant amanuensis, that the foreigners' way of sitting out after dinner, and chatting and laugh- ing was very sociable and friendly. Like most successful well-to-do Chinamen, our friend bas an enormous figure and paunch. I wonder they don't expire of heat and apoplexy. Wandering round the ship the other day, 1 saw him fast asleep in a long chair, and an attendant shampooing his fat legs for him all the time.
I wonder what you will all think, when you hear of my hurrying myself ont of sight for all these
HANKOW. Ill
months in the heart of China. The journey as far as Chung-khing has been repeatedly performed ; it will be after that point that my difficulties will commence, and I shall pass through many places in Yunnan where a foreigner has never been seen ; at such towns, it will require my utmost tact and caution to prevent trouble and excitement. Do not be apprehensive about me. If I only have liealth, by Grod's blessing, I shall not dread anything else.
To F. E. R.
British Consulate, Hankow, Sept. 2nd, 1874. — I have not been able to write during the past few days, for, as you may well imagine, the preparations for such a trip as I am about to undertake requires my constant attention and thought. Talking especially takes up a lot of time, and