I^rcsettteb to of lite PntlJerstty of Sloroitto by The Harris Family Eldon House London, Ont. -^ A 1— ^Af 'A' TOUR I N SCOTLAND. MDCCLXIX. Tros TyRIUSque mi hi nulls difcrimine agetur. THE SECOND EDITION. LONDON: printed for B.White, at Horace's Head, in Fleet- Street* MDCCLXXIL Dfi [iii] T O SirROGER MOSTYN,Bart. O F M0STYN5 Flintshire, Dear Sir, A Gentleman well known to the political world in the begin- ning of the prefent century made the tour of Eur op e.^ and before he reached Abbeville difcovered that in order to fee a country to beft advantage it was infinitely preferable to travel by day than by night. I cannot help making this appli- cable to myfelfj who, after publiHi- ing three volumes of the Zoology of Great Britain, found out that to A 2 be iv DEDICATION. be able to fpeak with more precifion- of the fubjedls I treated of, it was far more prudent to vifit the whole than part of my country : ftrucfk therefore with the refledion of hav- ing never feen Scotland, I inflantly ordered my baggage to be got ready, and in a reafonable time found mv- felf on the banks of the Thsoeed. As foon as I communicated to you my refolution, with your accuflomed -' friendfhip you wifhed to hear from m.e : I could give but a partial per- formance of my promife, the atten- tion of a traveller beins: fo much taken up .as to leave very little room for the difcharge of epiftolary duties ; and I flatter myfelf you will find this tardy execution ol: my engagement more fatisfaiflory than the hafiy ac- counts I could fend you on my road : but this is far from being; the fole motive of this addrefs. I have DEDICATIOM. I have irrefiftible inducements of public and of a private nature : to you I owe a rnoft free enjoyment of the Htde territories Providence had beftowed on me ; for by a liberal and equal ceffion of lields, and meads and woods, you conneded all the divided parts, and gave a full fcope to all my improvements. Every view I take from my window re- minds me of my debt, and forbids my filence, cauiing the pleaiing glow of gratitude to diffufe itfelf over the whole frame, inftead ot forcing up the imbittering ligh oi: Oh I Ji angulus ilk I Now every fcene I en- joy receives new charms, tor I mingle with the vifible beauties, the more plealing idea of owing them to yoii, the worthy neighbor and firm friend, who aie happy in the calm and domeftic paths of life with abili- ties fupcrior to oftentatioD;^ and good- nefs ^1 DEDICATION. nefs content with its own reward : with a found judgement and honeft heart you worthily difcharge the fe- natorial truft repofed in you, whofe unprejudiced vote aids to ftill the mad nefs of the People, or aims to check the prefumption of the Minifter. My happinefs in being from your ear- lieft life your neighbor, makes me con- fident in my obfervation; your increaf- ino; and difcerning band of friends difcovers and confirms the jufticc of it : may the reafons that attrad: and bind us to you ever remain, is the mod gratefull vvifh that can be thought of, by, Dear Sir, Your obljo-ed and ajfeEiionate Friendy a.?™:';;,. Thomas Pennant. PLATES. [ vii ] PLATES. I. Yp IDER Drake and Duck, Page 37 Ilf II. Dunkeld C^ihcdral, 78 III. Csiksidc n^Sir Taymouih, 84 IV. View from the King's Seat near Bkir, 103 V. Brae-mar Caftlc, with a diftant View of Inver- cauld III VI. Invernefs, i47 VII. Frefwick C2i?i\Q, 162 VIII. i he Gannet darting on its Prey, 165 \X. Czit\cUrqhuart, 180 X. Upper Fall of f>vn, 181 XI. Sterling Caftle, 220 XII. Arthur''^ Oven, and two Lcchaher Axes, 224 XIII. Pillars in Penrith Church-Yard, 287 XIV. Roebuck. White Hare, 2S8 XV. Cock of the Wood, 293 XVI. Hen of the Wood. Ptarmigan, 294 XVII. Saury. Greater Weever, 298 XVIII. Thorney Crab. Cordated Crab. The laft from the Ifle of Wight^ 300 Page 234. A View of the gigantic Yew-Trce in Fortingal Church- Yard. The middle part is now decayed to the ground ; but within me- mory was united to the height of three feet : Captain Campbell of Glen-Lion having afTured me that when a boy he has often climbed over, or rode on the then conneding part. ERRATA. ERRATA. Page 29 34 f 62 67 70 »'5 137 133 »39 /-^. 140 146 ^34 282, Gcodrict Gvjedier^ read in the note, in the note, edifice, Fortmonkf the front, - prevailed, Nota, in the note, mortittf Findvon, Parifh of the fame name — Findron favourite I find by Montcitb that the cathedral of Elgin was founded A. D. 1204 by y^w^r^zu Bi (hop o^ Murray y and that Inms only built great part of the fteeple, to which the words /iflf «o.'fl^//^ o/aj allude. Vide Mou^ )f^///;»'s Theatre of Mortality, 214, 219. lines 14, 15, dele •* is certainly a moll authentit repre- fentation of them ;" and iJifcrt " were not done under my own eye, nor can my memory enable me to fay whether thefe, or the drawing in pofleffion of the Anti- quarian Society, have the ilrongell refcmblance.'* Godrie. Giuedir. edifice. Lucy. Portincak. the (outh front, prevaled. Rota. mortis. Findorn. Parifh oi Cowobik. Findorn. favorite. A TOUR A T O U R I N SCOTLAND. MDCCLXIX. ON Monday the 26th of Juxe take my depar- Chiite^^ ture from Chester, a city without parallel for the fingular ftrucftureof the four princi- pal ftreets, which are as if excavated out of the earth, and funk many feet beneath the furface ; the carriages drive far beneath the level of the kitchens, on a line with ranges of fliops, over which on each fide of the ftreets paffengers walk from end to end, in covered galleries, fecurc from wet or heat. The back courts of all thefc houfcs are level with the ground, but to go into any of thefe four ftreets it is neceftary to defcend a flight of feveral fteps. The Cathedral is an antient ftruflure, very ragged on the outfide, from the nature of the red friable ftone * with which it is built : the tabernacle work in the choir is very neat ; but the beauty, and elegant fimplicity of a very antique gothic chapter-houfc, is what merits a vifit from every traveller. The Hypocauft near the Feathers Inn, is one of the remains of the Remans -f, it being well known that this place was a principal ftation. Among * Saxum arenarium friabile rubrum Da CcJlafpJJits. I. 139. f This city was the Deva and De-jana *f Antonine, and the ftation of the Legio •-^•icejima I'iJJrix, B many i A T O U R many antiquities found here, none is more lingular than tlie rude fculpture of the Dea Armigera Miner- 'va, with her bird and her altar, on the face of a rock in a fmall field near the ff^clcb end of the bridge. The caflle is a decaying pile. The walls of the «,ity,. the only complete fpecimens of antient for- tifications, are kept in excellent order, being the principal walk of the inhabitants •, the views from the feveral parts are very fine •, the mountains of Flintf/jire^ the hills of Broxton, and the infulated rock of Bcefion, form the ruder part of the fccnery j H rich flat forms the fofter view, and the profpe6t up the river towards Boiighton^ recalls in fome de- cree the idea of the 1'hames and Richmond hill. Pafled thro* Tarvifi, a fmall village j in the church-yard is an epitaph in memory of Mr. John Tbomafen, an excellent penman, but particularly famous for his exad and elegant imitation of the Greek charader. Belamere-, which Leland calls a faire and large foreft, with plenty of redde deer and falow, is now a black and dreary walle j it feeds a few rabbets, and a few black 'Terns * fl<;im over the fplafhes that water fome part of it. SaltPits. A few miles from this heath lies Northwich^ a fmall town, long famous for its rock fait, and brine pits j fome years ago I vifited one of the mines -, the ftratum of fait lies about forty yards deep i that which I faw was hollowed into the form of a temple j 1 defcended thro' a dome, and found * Br. ZocL II. 430. the IN SCOTLAND. the roof fupported by rows of pillars, about tvva yards thick, and fcveral in height -, the v.'hole was illuminated with numbers of candles, and made a molt magnificent and glittering appearance. Above the fait is a bed of whiti(h clay *, ufed in making the Z./i'(?r/'^(5/ earthen-ware J and in the fame place is alfo dug a good deal of the Gypfmn, or plaifter ftone. The folTil fait is generally yellov-'j and femi- pellucid, fometimes debafed with a dull greenifh earth, and is often found, but in fmall quantitiesj quite clear and color-lefs. The road from this place to Macclesfield is thro* a flat, rich, but unpleafant country. That town is in a very flourifliing ftate, is pciTeiTed of a great manufadure of mohair and twill buttons; has be- tween twenty and thirty filk mills, and a very con- fiderable copper fmelting houfe, and brafs work. After leaving this place the court try almoft in- ftantly changes and becomes" very mountanbus and barren, at left on the furface •, but the bowels com- penlate for the external fterility, by yielding fuffi- cient quantity of coal for the ufe of th6 neighboring parts of Chejhire^ and for the burning of Hme ; vaft quantity is made near Buxfojj, and being car- ried to air parts for the purpofes of agriculture, is become a confiderable article of commerce. The celebrated warm bath of Buxton f is Buxtoi*^ ^ Argilla caerula-cinerea Da Cofta fcjjlls. 1. d8. \ The Romans^ who were remarkably fond of warm' baths, did not over-look tnefe agreeaole waters ; they had a bath, jnclofed with a brick wall, adjacent to the prelcnc St. Anni'% \vell, which Dr. Short ^ in his effay oh tniatrai watei.^ lays -iiyas razed in" 1 709. B 2 feated A TOUR fcatcd in a bottom, amidfl: thefe hills, in a moft' chearlefs fpot, and would be little frequented, did not Hygeia often refide here, and difpenfe to her votaries the chief blelTings of life, eafe and health: with joy and gratitude I this moment refled on the efficacious qualities of the waters *, I recoiled with rapture the return of fpirits, the flight of pain, and re-animation of my long, long crippled rheumatic limbs. But how unfortunate is it, that what Pro- vidence defigned for the general good, fhould be rendered only a partial one, and denied to all, ex- cept the opulent ; or I may fay to the (compara- tively) few that can get admittance into the houfc where thefe waters are imprifoned. There are other fprings (Cambde7i fays nine) very near that in the Z/.'?//, and in all probability of equal virtue. I was informed that the late Duke of Devoiipire^ not long before his death, had ordered fomc of thefe to be inclofed and formed into baths. It is to be hoped that his fucceflbr will not fail adopting fo ufeful and humane a plan-, that he will form it on the moft enlarged fyllem, that they may open not folely to thofe whom mifufed wealth hath rendered invalids, but to the poor cripple, whom honefl labor hath made a burden to himfelf and his country ; and to the foldier and failor, who by hard fervice have loft the ufe of thofe very limbs which once were aiStive in our defence. The honor rcfulting from fuch a foundation would be as great, as the fatisfaflion arifmg from a confcioufnefs of fo benevolent a work would be unfpeakablc •, the charms of diHlpation would then Igfe their force, and dull and tallclcfs v.ould IN SCOTLAND. •would every human luxury appear to him, who had it in his power thus to lay open thefe fountains of health, and to be able to exult in fuch pathetic and comfortable drains as thefe -.When the ear heard me^ then it blejfed jjie, and ivhen the eye faiv me it gave zvitnefs to me ; Becaufe I delivered the poor that cried, and the fa- therlefs, and him that had none to help him. The hkjfing of him that was ready to perijlo came upon me, and I caufed the ividozv's heart to fmg for joy, I tvas eyes to the hiind, and feet iL-as I to the lame» After leaving Buxton, paffed thro' Middkton dale, a deep narrow chafm between two vaft cliffs, which extend on each fide near a mile in length : this road is very fingular, but the rocks in general are too naked to be beautiful. At the end is the fmall village of Stoney Middkton ; here the profpecSt opens, and at Barfly Bridge exhibits a pretty view of a fmall but fertile vale, watered by the Der- went, and terminated by Chatfworth, and its plan- tations. Arrived and lay at Chejlerfield •■, an ugly town. In this place is a great cnanufaclure of worded (lockings, and ano- ther of a brown earthen-ware, much of which is fent into Holland, the country which, within lefs than half a century ago, fupplied not only thefe kingdoms but half Europe with that comm.odity ; the clay is found near the tov/n, over the bafs or cherty * ftratum, above the coal. The fteeple of Chejlerfield church is a fpire, covered with lead, • Or flinty. B 3 jaut A T O U R but by a violent wind ilrangely bent, in which (late it remains. Jvyz 27. In the roa.-^ fide, about three miles from the town, sre feveral pits of iron {tone, about nine or ten feet deep. -The ftratum lies above the coal, and is two feet thick. I was informed that the adventurers pay ten pounds per annum to the Lord of the Soil, for liberty of raifing it •, that the la- borers have fix fliilUn^s per load for getting it ; each load is about twenty ftrikes or bufhels, which yields a tun of metal. Coal, in thefe parts, is very cheap, a tun and a half being fold for five fhillings. Changed horfes at Work/op and Ttixford; crofled the Trent at Bunhmn- Ferry ^ where it is broad but fhallow i the fpring tides flov; here, and rife about two feet, but the common tides never reach this place. Pafs along the Fojs-Byh-, or the canal opened by Henry I. * to form a communication be- tween the Trent and the Witham j it was opened i* the year 1121, and extends from Linccht to Tor- kefey ; its length is eleven miles three quarters, the breadth between dike and dike at the top is about fixty feet, at bottom twenty-two \ vefTcls from fif- teen to thirty-five tuns navigate this canal, and by its means a confidernble trade in coals, timber, corn and wool, is carried on. In former times, the * Diigiiah on embanking, 167. f I make ufe of this word, as Do6>or Stukrh conjeftures this canal to have been originally a Rcmun work ; and that another of the fame kind (tailed the Carftiike) coinmunic.ited with ir, by means of the IFiihom, which began a little below Wojl:eniro\ three miles horn Lincoln^ and was continued thro' the fens as far as I'rtnbcrcugh. Stuk,:'y''i Cnraujius. 125. feq(J. hjufd. Account of Richard of Cirencejhr. 50, perfons IN SCOTLAND. perfons who had landed property on either fide were obliged to fcower it whenever it was choaked up, and accordingly we find prefentments were made by juries in feveral lucceeding reigns for thac purpofe. Reach Lincoln, anantientbqt ill-built city, much fallen away from its former extent. It lies partly on a plain, partly on a very fteep hill, on whofe fummit are the cathedral and the ruins of the caftle. The firft is a vaft pile of gothic architecture ; has nothing remarkable on the outfide, but within is of match- lefs beauiy and magnificence : the ornaments are excefTively rich, and in the fineft gothic tafte ; th« pillars light, the centre lofty, and of a furprifing grandeur. The windows at the N. and S. ends very antient, but very elegant; one reprefents a leaf with its fibres, the other confifls of a number of fmall circles. There are two other antient win- dows on each fide the great ifle : the others, as I recoiled, are modern. This church was, till of late years, much out of repair, but has jufb been reftored in a manner that does credit to the Chap- ter. There is indeed a fort of arch near the W, end, that feems placed there (for the fame end as Bayes tells us he wrote one of his fcenes) meerly to fet off the refl. The profpeCt from this eminence is very exten- five, but very barren of obje6ts, a vafi: fiat as far as the eye can reach, confiding of plains not the moil fertile, or of fens * and moors : the lafi; are far * The fens, naked as they now appear, were once well wood-.- ed ; oaks have been found buried in them, which were fixtecn B 4- yards Gecfc. A TOUR far Icfs extcnfivc than they were, many being drained, and will foon become the bed land in the country. But ftili much remains to be done-, the fens near Revejby Ahby *, eight miles beyond Horncajik^ are of vaft extent ; but ferve for little other purpofc than the rearing great numbers of geefe, which are the wealth of the fenmen. During the breeding feafon, thefe birds are lodged in the fame houfes with the inhabitants, and even in their very bed-chambers : in every apart- ment are three rows of coarfe wicker pens placed one above another ; each bird has its feparate lodge divided from the other, which it keeps poflefllon of during the time of fitting. A perfon, called a Cozxard -f, attends the flock, and twice a day drives the whole to water •, then brings them back to their habitations, helping thofe that live in the upper ftories to their nefts, without ever mifplac- ing a fingle bird. The geefe are plucked five times in the year ; the firft plucking is at Lady-Day^ for feathers and quills, and the fame is renewed, for feathers only, four times more between that and Michaelmas, The old geefe fubmit quietly to the operation, but the yards long, and five in circumference ; fir trees from thirty to thirty- five yards long, and a foot or eighteen inches fquare. Thefe trees had not the mark of the ax, but appeared as if burnt down by fire applied to their lower parts. Acorns and fmall nuts have alfo been found in great quantities in the fame places. /J//^^«/<r on enibai^king, 141. * Rc'veflty /.bhy was founded i 142, by H'. Je Romara, Earl oiLiticoln, for Ciftercian monks, and granted by //.Vlll.an. 30. to C^Dukc o{ Sujolk. The founder turning monk was buried here. Tanner. 263. t i. e. Goofe-herd. voung INSCOTLAND. 9 young ones are very noify and unruly. I once law this performed, and obferved that godins of fix weeks old were not fpared ; for their tails were plucked, as I was told, to habituate them early to what they were to come to. If the feafon proves cold, numbers of geefe die by this barbarous cuf- tom *. Vaft numbers are drove annually to London^ to fupply the markets ; among them, all the fuper- annuated geefe and ganders (called here Cagmags) which ferve to fatigue the jaws o*f the good Citizens, who are fo unfortunate as to meet with them. The fen called the V/eJi Fen^ is the place where pen bir<2s- the Rufts and Reeves refort to in the greatefl: num- bers -f -, and many other forts of water fowl, which do not require the fhelter of reeds or ruflies, mi- grate here to breed ; for this fen is very bare, having been imperfeflly drained by narrow canals, v/hich interfed it for great numbers of miles. Thefe the inhabitants navigate in moft diminutive {hallow boats ; they are, in faft, the roads of the country. The Eajl Fen is quite in a ftate of nature, and gives a fpecimen of the country before the intro- dudlion of drainage : it is a vaft traft of morafs, intermixed with numbers of lakes, from half a mile to two or three miles in circuit, communicating with each other by narrow reedy flraits : they are very (hallow, none are above four or five feet in depth ; but abound with fifli, fuch as Pike, Perch, RufF, Bream, Tench, Rud, Dace, Roach, Bur- * It was alfo praftifed by the antlents. Candidorum alterum <iie£ligal: Velluntur quihti/dat?t locis bis anno. Plinii lib. v.. C. 22. t Br. Zool. II. 365*. S:tppl. tab. xv. /. 22. bot, lo A T O U R bot, Sticklebacks and Eels. It is obfervable, that once in fevtn or eight years, immenfe fhoals o^ Sticklebacks appear in the Welland below Spaldwgy and attempt conning up the river in form of a vaft column. They are fuppofed to be the colle6lcd multitudes waQied out of the fens by the floods of feveral years ; and carried into fome deep hole, when over-charged with numbers, they are obliged to attempt a change of place. They move up the river in Rich quantities as to enable a man, who was employed in taking them, to earn, for a confider- able time, four Ihillings a day, by felling them at a halfpenny per bulhel. They were ufed to manure land, and attempts have been made to get oil from them. The fen is covered with reeds, the harvcd of the neighboring inhabitants, who mow them annually; for they prove a much better thatch than draw, and not only cottages but many very good houfes are covered with them. Stares, which during winter refort in myriads to rood in the reeds, are very de{lru6live, by breaking them down by the vaft numbers that perch on them. The people are therefore very diligent in their attempts to drive them away, and are at great expence in powder to free themfelves from thefe troublefome guefts. I have fcen a ftock of reeds harvefted and flacked worth two or three hundred pounds, which was the property of a fingle farmer. The birds which inhabit the different fens are very numeroiis : I never met with a finer field for the Zoolcgift to range in. Beildes the common Wild duck, of which an account is given in another place, INSCOTLAND. n place *, wild Geefe, Garganles, Pochards, Sho- velers and Teals, breed here. I have feen on the Eaji Fen a fmall flock of the tufted Ducks ; but they feemed to make it only a baiting place. The Pewit Gulls and black Terns abound; the laft in vaft flocks almofl: deafen one with their clamors : a few of the great Terns, or Tickets, are feen among them. I faw feveral of the great- crefted Grebes on the Eaft Fen^ called there G aunts, and met with one of their floating nefts with eggs in it. The lefler crefted Grebe, the black and dufky Grebe, and the little Grebe, are alfo inhabitants of the fens-, toge- ther with Coots, Water-hens, fpotted Water-hens, Water-rails, Ruffs, Redflianks, Lapwings or Wipes, Red-breafl:ed Godwits and Whimbrels. The God- wits breed nQ2LV J-Vajhenhrcugh -y the Whimbrels onlv appear for about a fortnight in May near Spalding, and then quit the country. Oppofite to Fcjfdyke Wajloy during fummtr, are great numbers oi Avo- fettas, called there Tel-pers, from their cry : th^y hover over the fportfman's head like the Lapwing, and fly with their necks and legs extended. Knots are taken in nets along the fhores near Fojfdyke in great numbers during winter ; but they difappear in the fpring. The ihort-eared owl, Br. ZjOoL L 156. vifits the neighbourhood (^iWafljcnhrough, along with the Woodcocks, and probably performs its migrations with thofe birds, for it is obferved to quit the coun- * Br. Zool. II, 462. In general, to avoid repetition, the rea- der is referr'd to the four OHavn volumes oi Britijh Zoology, for a more particular account of animals mentioned in this Tour. try " A T O U R try at the fame time : I have alfo received fpecimens ot tliem from the BcmiJJj dominions, one of the re- treats of the Woodcock. This owl is not obferved in this country to perch on trees, but conceals itfelf in long old grafs ; if difturbed, takes a fhort flight, lights again and keeps flaring about, during which time its horns are very vifible. The farmers are fond of the arrival of thefe birds, as they clear the iields of mice, and will even fly in fearch of prey during day, provided the weather is cloudy and mifty. Heronry. But the greateft curioflty in thefe parts is the vafl: Heronry at Creji-Hall^ fix miles from Spalding. The Herons refort there m February to repair their nelts, fettle there in the fpring to breed, and quit the place during winter. They are numerous as Rooks, and their nefts fo crouded together, that myfelf and the company that v/as with me counted not fewer than eighty in one tree. I here had opportunity of de- tedling my own millake, and that of other Ornitho- logifcs, in making two fpecies of Herons ; for I fjund that the crefted Heron was only the male of the other: it made a mofl: beautiful appearance with its fnowy neck and long crcfl fl:reaming with the wind. I'he family who owned this place was ot the fame name with thefe birds, which fcems to be the principal inducement for preferving thsm. In the time of Michael Drayton, Here Jlalk'd the ftately crane, as though he marcFd in rear. But at prefent this bird is quite unknown in our ifland i but every other fpecies enumerated by that obfervant INSCOTLAND. 13 obfervant Poet flill are found in this fenny tra6l, er its neighbourhood. Vifited Spalding^ a place very much refembling, Jupce 28, in form, neatnefs, and fituation, a Butch town : padm^. the river PFeliand pafles through one of the ftreets, a canal is cut through another, and trees are planted on each fide. The church is a handfome ftru6lure, the fteeple a fpire. The churches in general, throughout this low tradl, are very handfome ; all are built of ftone, which muft have been brought from places very r'emote, along temporary canals j for, in many inftances, the quarries lie at left twenty miles diftant. But thefe edifices were built in zealous ages, when the benedidtions or maledidions of the church made the people conquer every diffi- culty that might obftrucl thef* pious foundations. The abby of Crowland^ feated in the midft of a fhaking fen *, is a curious monument of the infu- perable zeal of the times it was crefled in ; as the beautiful tower of Bcjton church, vifible from all parts, is a magnificent fpecimen of a fine gothic tafte. Pafl^ed near the fite 0? Swinejljead-Abhy^, of v/hich j^nh 29, there are not the left remains. In the walls of a Snvmejhead- farm houfe, built out of the ruins, you are fhewn the figure of a Knight Templar, and told it v/as the monk \y\\o poifoned King John-i a fa6l denied by our beft hiftorians. • This monaftery was founded by Ethtl^ald l\\r\^ of Mrr- cia, A. D. 716. The ground being too marfhy t" admit a weighty building of flone, he made a foundation, by drivinjc into the ground vafl: piles of oak ; and caufed more comprifk earth to be brought in boats nine miles off to lay on them, and foriD a more found foundation. Returned Jbhj, «l A. T O U R Returned thro' Lincoln^ went out of town under the Nezvport-Gatey a curious Roman work •, paflcd over part of the heath, changed liorfes at Spittle, and at G la-nf or d Bridge^ dined at the ferry-houfe on the banks of the Humber^ and after a paflfage of about five miles, with a brifk gale, landed at Hull^ and reached that night Eur ton-Conft able, the feat of Mr. Conjlable, in that part of Torkfmre called Hoi- dernefs j a rich flat country, but excellent for pro- ducing large cattle, and a good breed of horfes, whole prices are near doubled fince the French have grown fo fond of the Eriglijh kind. Made an excurfion to Hornfea^ a fmall town on the coaft, remarkable only for its mere, a piece of water about two miles long, and one broad, fa- mous for its pike sfid eels ; it is divided from the fea by a very narrow bank, fo is in much danger of being fome time or other loll. The cliffs on the coaft of Holdernefs are high, and compofed of clay, which falls down in vaft Amber. fragments. Quantity of amber is wafhed out of it by the tides, which the country people pick up and fell -, it is found fometimes in large mafles, but I never faw any lb pure and clear- as that from the Baltic. It is ulually of a pale yellow color within, and prettily clouded ; the outfide covered with a thin coarfe coat. July 2. After riding about twenty-two miles thro* a flat grazing country, reached Burlington- S^uay, a fmall tov/n dole to the fea. There is a defign of build- ing a pier, for the protedion of fliippingv at pre- fcnt there is only a large wooden quay, which pro- 2 jc<^s I N S C O T L A N D." 15 iefts into the water, from which the place takes its name. From hence is a fine view of the white cliffs of Flamborough-Heady which extends far to the Eaft, and forms one fide of the Gabrantuicoritm finus portucfus of Ptolpmy-, a name derived from the Britijh Gyfvy on account of tlie number of goats found there, according to the conjedlure oiCambden. A mile from hence is the town of Burlingion. The body of the church is large, but the fteeple, by fome accident* has been deftroyed •, near it is a large gateway, with a noble gothic arch, pofTibly the remains of a priory of black canons, founded by Walter de <3ant, in the beginning of the reign of Henry I. This coaft of the kingdom is very unfavorable to trees, for, except fome woods in the neighbor- hood of Burton-Conjlable, there is a vaft nakednefs from the Humber^ as far as tlie extremity of Cath- nefsf with a very few exceptions, which fliall be noted in their proper places. Went to Flamborough-Head. The town is on Tuly 3, the North fide, confifts of about one hundred and ^^'«^^"«^*- fifty fmall houfes, entirely inhabited by fifliermen, few of whom, as is faid, die in their beds, but meet their fate in the element they are fo conver- fant in. Put myfelf under the diredion q1 William Camidge^ Cicerone of the place, who conducted me to a little creek at that time covered with {\'i^i\ 2l fleet of cobles having jufi: put in. Went in one of thofe little boats to view t!ie Head^ coafting it for upwards of two miles. The cliffs are of a tre- mendous height, and amazing grandeur i beneath arj i^ A T O U R are feveral vaft caverns, fome clofed at the end,' others are pervious, formed with a natural arch, giving a romantic pafiage to the boat, different from that we entered. In fome places the rocks are in- fulated, are of a pyramidal figure, and foar up to a vaft height -, the bafes of moft are folid, but in fome pierced thro', and arched ; the color of all thefe rocks is white, from the dung of the innu- Its birds, merable flocks of migratory birds, which quite cover the face of them, filling every little projec- tion, every little hole that will give them leave to reft ; multitudes were fwimming about, others fwarmed in the air, and almoft ftunned us with die variety of their croaks and fcreams ; I obferved among them corvorants, fliags in fmall flocks, guillemots, a few black guillemots very fliy and wild, auks, puffins, kittiwakes *, and herring gulls. Landed at the fame place, but before our return to Flambcrough, vifited Robin Leith*s hole, a vaft cavern, to which there is a narrow pafl'age from the land fide i it fuddenly rifes to a great height, the roof is finely arched, and the bottom is ' for a confiderable way formed in broad fteps, re- fembling a great but eafy ftair-cafe -, the mouth opens to the fca, and gives light to the whole. Lay at Hunmandby, a fmall village above Filey Bay, round which are fome plantations that thrive tolerably well, and ought to be an encouragement to gentlemen to attempt covering thefe naked hills. Filey Brig is a ledge of rocks running far into the fea, and often fatal to (hipping. The bay is • Called here Petrels, Br. Zool. Suf>f>I, tab. xxiii./. 26. fandy, /^ Jet />-^^ ;;-V^/'>^^- INSCOTLAND. ^7 fandy, and affords vaffc quantities of fine fifh, fuch as Turbot, Soles, &c. which during fummer ap- proach the fliore, and are eafily taken in a common feine or dragging-net. Set out for Scarborough, paffed near the fite of Jvly 4, Fiixion, a hofpital founded in the time oi Atbclfian, ro give fhelter to travellers from the wohes, that they Jhould not he devoured by them * ; fo that in thofe days this bare tra(5l muft have been covered with wood, for thofe ravenous animals ever inhabit large forefts. Thefe hofpitia are not unfrequent among the /lips i are either appendages to religious houfes, or fupported by voluntary fubfcriptiuns. On the fpot where Flixtcn flood is a farm-houfe, to this day called the Spital Houfe. Reach Scarborough, a large town, builc in form of a; erefcent on the fides of a fteep hilt ; at one extre- mity are the ruins of the caftle, feat:ed on a cliff or a ftupendous height, from whence is a very good viev/ of the town. In the caflle-yard is a handfome barrack for one hundred and fitty men, but at pre- fent untenanted by foldiery. Beneath, on the foutfi fide, 15 a large flone pier, (another is now build- ing) which fhelters the fnipping belonging to the town. It is a place abfolutely without trade, yec owns above 300 fail of fhips, which are hired out for freight : in the late v/ar the Government had never lefs than 100 "of them in pay. The number of inhabitants belonging: to this place are above 10,000, but ^5 great part are * Camhden Brit. II. 902. C failors;! i9 A T O U R failors, nothing like that number are refident, which makes one church fufficient for thole who live on fhore. It is large, and fcated almoft: on the top of the hili. The range of buildings on the C//^ commands a fine view of the caftle, town, and fliore, and of innumerable fliipping that are perpetually pafTing backward and forward on their voyages. The fpaw * lies at the foot of one of the hills, S. of the town i this and the great conveni- cncy of fea-bathing, occafion a vaft refort of com- pany during fumnier •, it is at that time a place of great gayety, for with numbers health is the pre- tence, but dilTipation the end. The fliore is a fine hard fand, ard during lo\r water is the place where the company amufe them- fclves with riding. This is alfo the fifli market; for every day the cobles, or little fidiing-boats, are drawn on fliore heie, and lie in rows, often quite loaden with variety of the bed fifli. There was a fiOierman, on the 9th of May , 1767, brought in at one time, 20 Cods, 14 Lings, 17 Skates, 8 Holibuts, befides a vaft quantity of leflrr f.fh j and fold the whole for 3 1. 15 s. It is fuperfluous to repeat what has been before mentioned, of the me- thods of fifliinfT, being amply dcfcrjbed, /'W. III. p. * The waters nre impregnated with a purgative fait, (Cla:i' lir's) a Imall quantity of common fait, and cMlccl. 1 here are two wells, the (arthcft from the town is more purgative, and its talle more bitt.-r ; the other is more chalybeate, and its uitc more briflc and pungent. D. fi. *93. I N S C O T L A N D. 19 193, of the Britifi Zoology ; yet it will be far from impertinent to point out the pcculi^ advantages of thcfe feas, and the additional benefit this town might experience, by the augmentation of its filnerras. For this account, and for numberlefs civilities, I think myfelf much indebted to Mr. Travis^ fur- geon, who communicated to me the following Re- marks : " Scarborough is fituated at the bottom of a bay, ' formed by iVhilbf rock on the Norih, and Flanibo- rough-head on the South -, the town is feated diredly oppofite to the centre of the W. end of the Dogger bank ; which end, (according to Hammond's chart of the North Sea) lies S. and by VV, and N. and by E. but by a line dravv'n from linmonth cafJc, would lead about N. W. and S. E. Tho' the Dog- get bank is therefore but i 2 leagues from Flambc- rough-head, yet it is 16 and a half from Scarborough^ 23 from IVhitby, and ^6 from Tinmouth caftle. The N. fide of the bank flretches ofFE. N. E. between 30 and 40 leagues, until it almoft: joins to the Long-Bank^ and Jutt's, Riff. " It is to be remarked, that the fifliermen feldom find any Cod, Ling, or other round fiih upon the Dogger bank itfelf, but on the flOping edges and hoUows contiguous to it. The top of the bank i> covered with a barren fliifting fand. which affords them no fubfiQence; and the water on it, from, it^ fnailownrfs, is continually lb agitated and broken, as to rillow them no time ro rcit. The fin filh do not fuFcr the fame inconvenience tliere j for when difturbed by the motion of tlic ka. thc-y Hielter C 2 tliem- A T O U R themfclves in the fand, and find variety of fuitablc food. It is true, the Butch fifli upon the Dogger bank, but it is alfo true they take littleexcept Soles, Skates, Thornbacks, Plaife, &c. It is in the hol- lows between x.\\t Dogger 2i{\di i\\tPFell-Ba7iky that the Cod are taken, which fupply L<7W^« market. " The fhore, except at the entrance of Scarbo- rough pier, and fome few other places, is compofcd of covered rocks, which abound with Lobftcrs and Crabs, and many other fliell filh, (no Oyfters) thence, after a fpace covered with clean fand, ex- tending in different places from one to five or fix miles. The bottom, all the way to the edge of the Dogger banks, is a fear ; in fome places very rugged, rocky, and cavernous ; in others fmooth, and overgrown with variety of fubmarine plants, MofiTes, Corallines, &c. * fome parts again arc fpread with fand and fhells •, others, for many leagues in length, with foft miud and ooz, furnilhed by the difcharge of the Tees and Hurnber. *' Upon an attentive review of the whole, it may be clearly inferred, that the fhore along the coaft on the one hand, with the edges of the Dogger bank on the other, like the fides of a decoy, give a direction towards ourfifliing grounds to the mighty fhoals of Cod, and other fifh, which are well known to come annually from the Northern ocean into our feas •, and fecondly, that the great variety of fifliing grounds near Scarborough^ extending upwards of 16 leagues from the fliore, aflbrd fecure retreats and plenty of proper food for all the various kinds • I met with on the (horcs ne;r Scarharcugh^ fmall frag^- uicntJ of the '.rwtf rcJ c0r.1l, of I N S C O T L A N D. 21 of fiOi, and alfo fuitable places for each kind to de- pofu their fpawn in. " The fifhery at Scarborough only employs 105 men, and brings in about 5250 1. per annum, a trifle to what it would produce, was there a canal from thence to Leeds and Maiichefier \ it is proba- ble it would then produce above ten times that fum, employ Ibme thouiands of men, give a comfortable and cheap fubfiftence to our manufadurers, keep the markets moderately reafonable, enable our ma- nufadluring towns to underfell our rivals, and pre- vent the hands, as is too often the cafe, raifing in- furrections, in every year of fcarcity, natural or artificial." On difcourfing with fome very intelligent fin:ier- men, Iwas informed ofa very lingular ph;Enomenon they annually obferve about the fpawning of fiili *. At the diflance of 4 or 5 leagues from (horc, during the months of July and Augufi^ it is remarked, that at the depth of 6 or 7 fathom from the furface, the water appears to be faturated with a thick jelly, filled with the 0^'^of fifh, which reaches 10 or 12 fathoms deeper •, this is known by its adhering to the ropes the cobles anchor with when they are fifning, for they find the firft 6 or 7 fathom of rope free from fpawn. the next 10 or 12 covered with llimy matter, the remainder again free to the bot- tom. They fuppofc this gelatinous ftuffto fupply the new-born fry with food, and that it is alio ^ . * Mr. 0/^^ri obferved the fame in S. Lat. 3:^, 36, in his re- turn from China. The feamen call it ;he flowering of the water. A/. II, 72. C 3 prote^^ion 22 A T O U R protet^ion to the fpawn, as being difagreeable to the larger fifh to fwim in. There is great variety of fifh brought on fliore ; hefides thofedefcribed as Britijh fifh, were two fpe- cies of Rays: the Whip-Ray has" alfb been taken here, and another fpecies of Weever ; but thefe are flibjedls more proper to be referred to 2. Fauna., than an Itinerary, for a minute defcripticn. July 10. Left Scarhcrough-, pafTcd over large moors to Robin Hood's Bay. On my road, obferved the AlumWorks. vaft m.ountains of alum ftone, from which that fait is thus extra(fled : It is firft calcined in great heaps, which continue burning by its own phlo- giflon, after being well fet on fire by coals, for fix, ten, or fourteen months, according to the fize of the heap, fbme being equal to a fmall hill. It is then thrown into pits and (leeped in water, to ex- traft all the faline particles. The liquor is then run into other pits, where the vitriolic falts are prascipitated, by the addition of a folution of the fal fod<e^ prepared from kelp; or by the volatile alkali of flale urine. The fuperfluous wattr b-jing then evaporated ducly by boiling in large furnaces, the liquor is fet to cool -, and laftly, is poured into large calks, to cryllallize. The alum works of this country are of fomc an- tiquity -, they were liilT; diicovercd by Sir Thomas Cbaloiier, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth j who cbl*erving the trees tinged with an unufual color, made him fufpicious of its being owing to fome mineral in the neighborhood. He found out that the- ftrata abounded with an aluminous fait. At IN SCOTLAND. aj At that time, the K^gHP-i being ftrangers to the method of managing it, there is a tradition that Sir Thomas was obliged to feduce Ibme workmen from the Pope's alum-works near Rome, then the greateft in Europe. If one may judge from the curfe which his Holinefs thundered out againft Sir Thomns and the fugitives, he certainly was not a little enraged; for he curfed by the very form ih^t Ernulpbus * has left us, and not varied a tittle from that moft com- prehenfive of imprecations. The firft pits were near Gijborough, the feat of the Chcloners, who ftill fiourifh there, notwithftand- ing his Holinefs's anathema. The works were {o valuable as to be deemed a royal mine Sir Paul Pindnry who rented them, payed annually to the King 12,500 1. to the Earl of Miilgi'ave 1,6401. to Sir WilUatn Pennyman 600 1. kept 800 workmen in pay, and fold his alum at 26 1. per tun. But this rnonopoly was deftroyed on the death of Charles I. and the right rcftored to the proprietors. In thefe alum rocks are frequently found cornua ammoms^ and ot'.ier folTils, lodged in a ftony nodule. Jet is fometim.es met with in thin fiat pieces, ex- Jet. ternally of the appearance of wood. According to Solims, Britain was famous for this foflll f . The fands near Rcl^in Hood's village v/ere covered with fifn of fevcral kinds, and with people who met the cobles in order to purchafe their cargo : the * Vide 7V//?r.7/« Shant/y. t Gagatis hie plurimus cplimnfqtie eji lapis : fi drtorem rt' ^uiras, nigra gemmeui : Ji naturam aqua ardet, oleo rejlinguiiur : Ji poteftaicm ailritu cp.lej'a^us applicita delinet^ af^ue Jucctnum. C. xxiv. C 4 place A TOUR place feemed as if a great fifh fair had been held there; fome were carrying off their bargains, others bufied in curing the fifh ; and a little out at fea was a fleet of cobles and five men boats, and others arriving to difcharge the capture of the preceding tides ■*. There are 36 of the fiift belonging to this I'ttle pl&ce. The houfes here make a grotcfque flippearance, are' fcattered over the face of a fleep cliff" in a very ftrange manner, and fill every pro- jeding ledge, one above anotiier, in the fame man- ner as tjiofe of the peafants in the rocky parts of China. Sand's End, Runwick, and Staitbes, three other fifliing-towns on this coafl, are (as 1 am told) built in the fame manner. The country through this day's journey was hilly, the coail: higli. Reach Whitby, called by the Saxons, Streanejhalch, or bay of the light-houfe, a large town, oddly ficuated between two hills, with a narrow channel running through the middle, extending about a mile farther vp the vale, where it widens, and forms a bay. The two parts of the town are joined by a good draw-bridge, for the conveniency of letting the (flipping pafs. From this bridge are often taken the viviparous Blenny,' whole back-bone is as green as that of the Sea Ncccie. The river that forms this harbor is the EJk, but its waters are very inconfiderable when the tide is out. Here is a pretty brifk trade in fliip building ; but except that, a imail manufaflurc of f.iil- cloth, and the • From hence the fifh are carried in machines to Dei'ht Litchjiela, Birmingham, and Worcejltr : the towns which lie be- yond the lad arc lup^ilied ffom the Weft of England. hirin I N S G O T L A N D. 25 hiring out of fhips as 2itScarhorcugh^ like that town it has fcarce any commerce. In is computed there are about 270 (hips belonging to this place. Of late, an attempt has been made to have a fhare in the Greenland fiihery -, four fhips were fent out, and had very good fuccefs. There are very good dry docks towards the end of the harbor ^ and at the rr.outh a moft beautiful pier. At this place is the crft falmon-fifhery on the coaft. On the hill above the S. fide of the tovv-n is a fine St. HiLWi ruin of St. Hilda's church. The fire was given to Church, that faint by Ofwy^ king of Ncr thumb erl and ^ about A. D. 657 ; poflibly in confequence of a vow he made to found half a dozen monafteries, and make his daughter a nun, fhould heaven favor his arms. St. Hilda founded a convent here for men and wo- men, dedicated it to St. Peier, and put it under the direction of an abbcfs. This eftabliOiment was ruined by the excurfions of the Danes ; but after the conqueft it was rebuilt, and filled with Bene- di^ines^ by Walter de Percy. In lefs enlightened times it was believed that not a wild goofe dared to fiy over this holy ground, and if it ventured was fure to fall precipitate and perilh in the attempt. Went about two miles along the fhore, then turned up into the country, a black and barren moor; obferved on the right a vaft artificial mounr, or Tumulus, called Freehurgh Hill, a monument, in all probability, the work of the Danes, v/hofe cuilom it was to fling up fuch Tumuli over the graves of their kings or leaders-, or, in memory of the flain in gcnrral, upon the fpot where they had obtained 2'-^ A T O U R obtained any great vidory. It is pofTiblethat this mount owned its rife to the viclory gained by Ivar, a Danijh prince, over Ella, king of Bcrnicia, "who was on his way fronn the North to fuccour 0/beri •, for we are told that Ivar, after defeating the lafl:, went from ^''ork to meet ILUa, and fought and Hew ^ him on his march. At the end of this moor, about three miles from Gijborcu^h^ is a beautiful view over the remaining part of Torkjhire^ towards Durham^ Hartlepool^ and the mouth of the T'ees^ which meanders through a very rich tract. The country inftantly affumes a new face ; the road lies between moft delightful hills finely wooded, and the little vales between them very fertile ; on fome of the hills are the marks of the firft alum works, which were difcovered by Sir 'Thomas Ch a loner. CisBORorcK. GiSBOROUGH,afmalltown,'pleafantly fituatedina vale, furrounded at fome diftance by hills, and open on theeafttothefea, which is aboutfive milesdiftant. It is certainly a delightful fpot, but I cannot fee the reafon why Cambdcn compares it to Puteoli. Here w^s once a priory of the canons of the order of St. Jujiiny founded by Robert de Brus, 1 129, after the diflblotion granted by Edward VI. to the Chaloners: a very beautiful eafl window of the church is dill remaining. The town has at pref.nt a good manu- fadure of fail cloth. The country continues very fine quite to the banks of the TeeSy a confiderable river, which di- vides YorhflAre from the biflioprick of "Durham. After travelling 109 miles in a ftrait line through the INSCOTLAND. ;; the firft, enter Durham^ crofnngthe river on a very handfome bridge of arches, the battlements neatly panneled with ftone; and reach Stockton, lying on the Tees inform of a cref- cent. A handfome town ; the principal ftreet is remarkably fine, being i6^ feet broad; and feveral Icficr (Ireets run into it at right angles. In the mid- dle of the great ftreet are neat fliambles, a town- honfe, and large afiembly-room. There is befides a large fquare. About a century ago, according to Anderfon^ it had fcarce a houfe that was not made of clay and thatch •, but is now a flourifliing place. Its manufa(fl:ure is fail cloth ; and great quantities of corn, and lead, (from the mineral parts of the county) are fent off from hence by commifTion. As the river does not admit of large vefTels fo high as the town, thofe commodities are fent down to be ihipped. The falmon fiihery here is neglefted, for none are taken beyond what is necelTary to fupply the country. Smelts come up the river in the winter time. On the weft fide of the town ftood the caftle j what remained of it is at prefent converted into a barn. The country from hence to Durham is flat, very fertile, and much inclofed. Towards the weft is a fine view of the highlands of the country : thofe hills are part of that vaft ridge which commence in the north and deeply divide this portion of the kingdom ; and on that account are called by Camb^ den the Appennines of England. The approach to Durham is romantic, through Durham. a deep hollow, cloathed on each fide with wood. The 28 A T O U R The city is prerty large, but the buildings old. Part are on a plain, part on the fide of a hill. The abby, or cathedral, and the caftle, where the Bifhop lives when he reiides here, are on the fummit of a chfT, whofefoot is wafhed on two fides by the river IVere. The walks on the oppofite banks are very beautiful, flagged in the middle and paved on the fides, and are well kept. They are cut through the wood, impend over the river, and receive a venerable improvement from the caftle and anticnt cathedral which foar above. The lad is very old * j plain without, and fup- ported within by mafly pillars, deeply engraved wiih lozenge-like figures, and zigzag furrows : others are plain; and each forms a duller of pillars. The fl<.reen to the choir is wood covered with a coarfe carving. The choir neat, but without or- nament. The chapter-houfe feems v^ry antient, and is in the form of a theatre. The cloifters large and handfome. All the monuments are defaced, ex- cept thatofBifliop Hatfield. The Prebendal houfes are very pleafantly fituated, and have a fine view backv./ards. There are two handfome bridges over the IVere to the walks ; and a third covered with houfes, which join the two parts of the town. This river produces Salmon, Trout, Roach, Dace, Minow, Loche, Bulhead, Sticklebacks, Lamprey, theleflx;r Lamprey, Eels, Smelt?: and Samlet, which are callefl here Rack riders, becaufe they apjiear in • Begun in 1093, ^y Bifliop If'illiam de Cariltpho. I4 winter, I N S C O T L A N D. 25 winter, or bad weather ; Rack, in the northern dia- left, fignifying the driving of the clouds by tern. pefts. It is obferved here, that before thtry go off * to fpawn, thofe fifh are covered with a white llime. There is no inconfiderable m an u failure, at Bur- bcimy 'of fhalloons, tammies, ftripes and callaman- coes. I had heard on my road many complaints of the ecclefiaflical government this county is fubjeft to ; but, from the general face of the country, it feems to thrive wonderfully under them. Saw Coker, the feat of Mr. Ca}' •, a moil romantic Jvlt 13, fituation, layed out with great judgment; the walks are very extenfive, principally along the fides or at the bottom of deep dells, bounded with vaft preci- pices, finely wooded ; and many parts of the rocks are planted with vines, which I was told bore well, but late. The river fFere winds along the hollows, and forms two very fine reaches at the place where you enter thefe walks. Its waters are very clear, and its bottom afolid rock. The view towards the ruins of Fintbal- Abb^y is remarkably great ; and the walk beneath the cliffs has a magnificent folemnity, a fit retreat for its monaftic inhabitants. This was once called the Defert, and was the rude fcene of the auflerities of St. Godric, who carried them to the m-oft fenfelefs extravagance *. A fober mind may even at prefent be affedted with horror at the profpefl • St. Gocdric was born at Walpch in Ncrfolk, and being an itinerant merchant,- got acquainted with St. Cuthbert at Farn IJland. He made three pilgrimages to "Jernjalem ; at length, was warned by a vifion to fettle in the ceCcrt of Fhicbal. He lived an hermitical life there during 63 years, and prafliffd unheard-of auiterities : he wore an iion fiiirt next his ikin, day S<i A T O U R profpefl from the fummits of tlie cliffs into a dark- fome and ftupendoiis chafm, rendered ftill more tremendous by the roaring of the waters over its diflant bottom. Pafll'd through CheJIer-Ie-Street, a fmall town, near which is Lumley-Cajtls^ the feat of the Earl of Scarborough \ a place, as I was told, very well worth feeing; but unfortunately it proved a public day, and I loft fight of it. The country, from Durham to Newcajlls, was very beautiful ; the rifings gentle, and prettily wooded, and the views agreeable \ that on the borders remarkably fine, there being, from an eminence not far from the capital of Northumberland^ an extenfive view of a rich country, watered by the coaly Tyne. Reach Xewcastie. Newcastle, a large, difagreeable, and dirty townj divided in two unequal parts by the river, and both fides very ftccp. 1 he lower parts are inhabited by Keelmen and their families, a muti- nous race •, for which realon this town is always garrifoned. The great bufincfs of the place is the coal trade. The collieries lie at difterent diftances, from five to dav and night, and wore out three : he mingled aflies with chc flour he ir.adc his bread of"; and, leall it fliould then be too i;ood, kct.t it three or four months before he ventured to eat it. In winter, as well as i'umnicr, he pall'od whole nights, tip to his chiti in water, at his devotions. Like St. Antony, he \^.as often haunted by iicnds in various fhapes ; fomctimes in form of beautiful damfcU, fo was vifited with evil con- cupilcence, which he cured by rolling naked among thorns and briars: his body grew ulcerated; but, toencreafj his pain, he' pouied fait into the wounds. Wrought many miracles, and died \\io. Britannia Jacra, 304. About ten years after his dcceafe, a Bencdiiiint priory of thirteen monks was founded there in hi» honor, by lluo^b PuJjcj, Biihop of Durham. eighteen I N S C O T L A N D. Ji eighteen miles from the river ; and the coal is broLiglit down in waggons along rail roads, and difcharged from covered buildings at the edge of the water into the keels or boats that are to convey it on fliipboard. Thefe boats are ftrong, clumfy and round, will carry about 25 tuns each; fometimesare navigated with a fquare fail, but generally are pufhed along with large poles. No fhips of large burthen can come up as high as Newcajile-, but arc obliged to lie at Shields^ a few miles down the river, where ftage coaches go thrice every day for the conveniency of pafTengers. This country is moft remarkably populous ; Nezvcajtle alone contains near 40,600 inhabitants ; and there are at left 400 fail of fhips belonging to that town and its port. The^effcd of tlie vaft commerce of this place ia very apparent for many miles round ; the country is finely cultivated, and bears a molt thriving and opulent afpefl. Left NczaCiiJlk i the country in general flat; July 13. pafled by a large ftone column with three dials on the capital, with feveral fcripture texts on the fide«, called here Pigg'^ Folly, from the founder. A few miles further is Stanningtcn Bridge, a plea- fant village. Morpeth, a fmall town with a neat town-houfe, and a tower for the bell near it. The caftle was on a fmall eminence, but the remains are now very inconfiderable. Some attempt v/as made a few years ago to introduce the Manchefier n\zn\x- fadlure, but without fuccefs. There is a remarkable ftory of this place, thac the inhabitants reduced their own town to alhes, on the approach of* King 4 John, 32 A T O U R 'John^ A. D. 1215, out of pure hatred to their rr^o- narch, in order that he might not find any (hclter there. This place gave birth to William Turner^ as Dr. Fuller exprefles it, an excellent Latinifi^ Gnecian^ Oratour^ and Poet j he might have added polemic divine, champion and fufferer in the protcflant caufe, phyfician and naturalift. His botanic wri- tings are among the firfl we had, and certainly the beft of them •, and his criticifms on the birds of Arijloth and Pliny ^ are very judicious. He was the firft: who flung any light on thofe fubjefls in our illand ; therefore clames from a naturalift this tribute to his memory *. ■ Felton^ a. pleafant village on the Coquet, which,- fome few miles lower, difcharges itfclf into the fea, oppofite to a fmall ifle of the fame name, re- markable for the multitudes of water- fowl which refort there to breed. Jft/tTcui At Alhzoick, a fmall town, the traveller is difap- Caftle. . . pointed with the fituation and environs of the caftle, the refidence of the Percies, the antient Earls of Northumberland. You look in vain for any marks of the grandeur of the feudal age •, for trophies won by a family eminent in our annals for military prowefs and deeds of chivalry ; for halls hung with helms and hauberks, or with the fpoils of the chace •, for cxtenfive forefts, and venerable oaks. You look in vain for the helmet on the tower, the antienc fignal ot hofpitaiity to tne traveller, or for the grey-headed porter to conduft him to the hall of • Ilewa? born in the reign of Henry VIII. died in 1568.- cnter- ytJL Jxac Sd-ajjir if". I N S C O T L A N D. JJ entertainment. The numerous train, whofe coun-« tenances gave welcome to him on his way, are now no more ; and inftead of the difinterefted ufher of the old times, he is attended by a valet eager to receive the fees of admittance. There is vaft grandeur in the appearance of the ^^c^ putfide of the caitle -, the towers magnificent, but ^^ ^ injured by the numbers of rude flatues crouded on ^/^ the battlements. The apartments are large, and lately finifhed in the gothic (lyle with a mod incom- patible elegance. The gardens are equally incon- fiftent, trim to thehigheft degree, and more adapted to a villa near hondon^ than the antient feat of a great Baron. In a word, nothing, except the num- bers of uninduftrious poor that fwarm at the gate, excites any one idea of its former circumilances. A flage further is Belford, the feat of Abraham Dixon, Efqj a modern houfe ; the front has a moft beautiful fimplicity in it. The grounds improved as far as the art of hufbandry can reach j the plan- tations large and flouriihing: a new and neat town, inftead of the former wretched cottages ; and an induftrious race, inftead of an idle poor, at prefent fill the eft ate. On an eminence on the fea coaft, about four BamhorougU miles from Belford, is the very antient caftle of ^*^^^^' Bamborcugh, built by Ida, firft king of the Nor- thumbrians, A. D. 548. But, according to the con- jecture of an antiquarian I met with there, on the fite of a Roman fortrefs. It was alfo his opinion, that the fquare tower was aftually the work of the Romans, It had been of great ftrength •, the hill it P. is TOUR 1 13 founded on is exceflivcly deep on all fides, and accefTible only by flif^hts of ilcps on the fovith eaft. The ruins are Hill conlidcrable ; the remains of a great hall are very fingular •, it had been warmed by two fire-places of a vaft fize, and from the top of every window ran a flue, like that of a chimney, which reached the fummits of the battlements. Thefe flues feem defigned as fo many fupernu- rnerary chimnies, to give vent to the fmoke that tiie immenfe fires of thofe hofpitable times filled the rooms with : halls fmoky, but filled with good cheer, were in thofe days thought no incon- venience : thus my brave countryman Hovel ap Rys, when his enemies had fired his houfe about his ears, told his people to rife and defend them- felves like men, for fliame, for he hadknowne there CIS great e a fmoake in that hall upon a Chrijlmas even *. Many of the ruins are now filled with fand, caught up by the winds that rage here with great impe- tuofity, and carried to very diftant places. 'Thi? caftle, and the manour belonging to it, was ' once the property of the Forjicrs ; but purchafcd BiHiop by Lord Crew^ Bifliop of Durham, and with other C/mv'sCha- confidcrable cftates, left veiled in Truilees, to be tay. ' , applied to unconfined charitable ufes. Three of thefe Truilees are a majority : one of them makes this place his refidcncc, and blcfles the coafi. by his judicious and humane application of the Prelate'^ generous bcqueft. He has repaired and rendered habitable the great fquare tower: the part refervcd ^or himfclf and family is a large hall and a few fmallcr apartments ; but the reil of ihe fpacioua • Hijf. Gi<jet!itr familj, 118. t edifice I N S C O T L A N D. 3j edifice is allotted for purpofes which make the heart to glow with joy when thought of. The upper part is an ample granary •, from whence corn is difpenced to the poor without diftinilion, even ia the deareft time, at the rate of four {hillings a bufhcl ; and the diftrcfled, for many miles round, often experience the con veniency of this benefadtion. Other apartments are fitted up for the reception of fliipwrecked iailors j and bedding is provided for about thirty, fhould fuch a number happen to be call on (hore at the fame time. A conftantpa- trole is kept every ftormy night along this tera- peftuous coaft, for above eight miles, the length of the manour, by which means numbers of lives have been preferved. Many poor wretches are often found on the ihore in a flate of infenfibility •, but by timely relief, are foon brought to themfelves. It often happens, that fiiips ftrlke in fuch a man- ner on the rocks as to be capable of relief, in cafe numbers of people could be fuddenly affembled : for that purpofe a cannon * is fixed on the top of the tower, which is fired once, if the accident hap- pens in fuch a quarter ; twice, if in another, and thrice, if in fuch a place. By thefe fignals the country people are direded to the fpot they are to fly to •, and by this means, frequently preferve not only the crew, but even thci vefTel ; for machines of different kinds are always in readinefs to heave fnips out of their perillous fituation. * Once belonging so a Dutch frigate of 40 guns ; which, vvith all the crew, was loft oppofite to the caftlc, about fixty years ago, D 2 In 3^ A T O U R In a word, all the fchcmes of this worthy Truflec have a humane and ufeful tendency : he fecmcd as if felcdted from his brethren for the fame purpofes as Spenftr tells us the firft of his* feven Bead/men m the houfe of holinejfc was. ' The firft of tlicm, that cldeft was and beft, Of all the houfe had charge and governement, As guardian and fteward of the reft : His office was to give entertainement And lodging unto all that came and went: Not unto fuch as could him feaft againe. And doubly quite for that he on them fpent ; ^ut fuch as want of harbour did conftraine ; Thofe, for Gou's faUe, his dewty was to entertaine. Farn Ides. Oppofite to Bainhoroiigh lie the Fani iflands^ which form two groupes of little ifles and rocks to the number of kvcntten, but at low water the points of others appear above the furface •, they all are diftinguifhed by particular names. The neareft ifle to the fhore is that called the Houfe I/land, which lies exaftly one mile 68 chains from the coaft : the mofl diftant is about feven or eight miles. They are rented for 1 61. p/r ^;;////w •* their produce is kelp, fome few feathers, and a few fcals» which the tenant watches and llioots for the fake of the oil and fkins. Some of them yield a little grafs, and fcrvc to feed a co%v or two, which the people arc dcfperacc enough to tranfpor: over in their little boats. July 15. Vifited thcfc iflands in a coble, a fafe but fccni- ingly hazardous fpccies of boat, long, narrow and fiat-bortomed, wliich is capable of going rhro' a high iiii; ;,r;n,iii""iiiiii'l|ii''iiiiiiiii"iii "" ' INSCOTLAND. 37 high Tea, dancing like a cork on the fummits of the waves. Touched at the rock called the Afeg, whitened with the dung of corvorants v'hich almoll covered it ; their nefts were large, made of" tang, and moft excefTively foetid. Rowed next to the Pinnacles, an ifland in the fartheft groupe-, fo called from fome vaft columnar rocks at the fouth end, even at their fides, and flat at their tops, and entirely covered with guillemots and fhags : the fowlers pafs from one to the other of thefe columns by means of a narrow board, which they place from top to top, forming a nar- row bridge, over fuch a horrid gap, that the very fight of it ftrikes one with horror. Landed at a fmall ifiand, where we found the female Eider ducks * at that time fitting: the lower EiderDucks. part of their neils was made of fea plants ; the upper part was formed of the down which they pull off their own breads, in which the eggs were furrounded and warmly bedded : in fome were three, in others five eggs, of a large fize and pale olive color, as fmooth and gloflfy as if varniflied over. The nefts are built on the beach, among the loofe pebbles, not far from the water. The Ducks fit very clofe, nor will they rife till you al- moft tread on them. The Drakes feparate them- felves from the females during the breeding feafon. We robbed a few of their nefts of the down, and after carefully feparating it from the tang, found • Vide ^r. Zoel. II. 454. I have been informed that they alfo b;efd on Incb-Celm, in the Firth of Ferth» D 3 that A T O U K that the down of one ncfl weighed only three quar- ters of an ounce, but was fo elaftic as to fill the crown of the largcft hat. The people of this country call thefe St. Ciithbert's ducks, from the faint of the iflands*. Befides thefe birds, I obferved the following : , Puffins, called here 'Tom Noddies^ Auks, here Shouts t Guillemots, Black Guillemot, Little Auks, Shiel-ducks, Shags, Corvorants, Black and white Gulls, Brown and white Gulls, Herring Gulls, whicii 1 was told fed fomc- times on eggs of other birds, Commc.n Gull, here AnnetSt Kittiwake?, or Tarrocks, Pewit Gulls, Great Terns, Sea Pics, Sea Larks, here Brokels, Jackdaws, ^vhich breed in rabbet- holes. Rock Pigeons, Rock Larks. The Terns were fo numerous, that in fome places • I mull here acknowlege my obligations to Jofeph Bankr, F.fq; who, previous to his circumnavigation, liberally per- mitted my artiil to take copies of his valuable colledlifin of Zoologic drawings, amongft others thofc of the Eiihrdnoki. it I N S C O T L A N D. 59 it was difficult to tread without crufliing fome of D the cgss. ■an The laft ide I vifited was the Houfe ijland, the fequeftered fpot where St. Cuthbert pafTed the two laft years of his life. Here was afterwards efta- bliflied a priory of Benedi^fines for fix or eight Monks fubordinate to" Durham. A fqiiare tower, the remains of a church, and fome other buildings, are to be feen there ftill ; and a ftone coffin, which, it is pretended, was that of St. Cuthbert. At the north end of the ifle is a deep chafm, frorti the top to the bottom of the rock, communicating to the fea ; through which, in tempeftuous weather, the water is forced with vafl violence and noife, and forms a fine Jet d'eau of fixty-fix feet high : it i^ called by the inhabitants of the oppofite coaft the Churn. Reached fnore through a moft turbulent rippling, occafioned by the fierce current of the tides be- tween the iflands and the coaft. Purfued my journey northward. Saw at a dif- i^.^^ ^^ tance the Cheviot hills ; on which, I was informed, the green Plovers breed ; and that, during winter, flocks innumerable of the great Bramblings, or ' Snow-flakes, appear -, the moil fouthern place of their migration, in large companies. The country almoft woodlefs, there being but one wood of any confcquence between Belford and Berwick. Saw on the left an antient tower, which fhewed the chark6ler of the times when it was un- happily neceflary, on thefe borders^ for every houfe to -be a fortrefs. D 4 On A TOUR On the right, had a view of the fea, and, not re- mote from the land, of Lindesfarn^ or Holy Illand, once an epilcopal feat, afterwards trandated to Durham^ On it are the ruins of a caftle and a church. In feme parts are abundance of Entrochi^ which are called by the country people St. Cuth- herf's beads. After a few miles riding, have a full view of Berwick, and the river Tiveed winding weft ward for a confiderable way up the country ; but its banks were without any particular charms *, being almoft woodlefs. The river is broad ; and has over it a bridge of fixtcen very handfome arches, efpe- cially two next the town. Berwick is fortified in the modern way •, but is much contracted in its extent to what it was for- merly, the old caftle and works now lying at fome diftance beyond the prefent ramparts. The bar- racks are large, confift of a center and two wings. The church was built by Cromwcl, and, according to the fpirit of the builder, without a ftecple. Even in Northumberland^ (towards the borders) the ftee- ples grew lefs and lefs, and as it were forewarned the traveller that he was fpecdily to take leave of epifcopacy. The town-houfe has a large and hand- feme modern tower to it : the flrects in general are narrow and bad, except that in which the town- houfe ftands. Abundance of wool is exported from this town: eggs in vaft abundance colleded through all the • I was informed tbat the beautiful banks of the Tijuetd verify the old long at the paflage at ColJIreatn, 4 country. INSCOTLAND. 41 country, almofl as far as Carlijle : they are packed in boxes, with the thick end downwards, and are fent to London for the ufe of fugar refiners. I was told that as many are exported as bring in annually the fum of fourteen thoufand pounds. The falmon fifheries here are very confiderable, Salmon and likewile bring in vafl fums : they lie on each ^^^^' fide the river •, and are all private property, ex- cept what belongs to the Dean and Chapter of Durham, which, in rent and tythc of fifh, brings in 450I. per am:, for all the other fiHieries are liable to tythe. The common rents of thofc are 50L a year, for which the tenants have as much iliore as ferves to launch out and draw their nets on fhore : the limits of each are flaked -, and I obferved that the fifhers never failed going as near as pcffible to their neighbour's limits. One man goes off in a fmall flat-bottomed boat, fquare at one end, and taking as large a circuit as his net admits, brings it on (bore at the extremity of his boundary, where others afTift in landing it. The befl fiihery is on the fouth fide * : very fine falmon trout are often taken here, which come up to fpawn from the fea, and return in the fame manner as the falmon do. The chief import is timber from Norway and the Bailie. Almoft immediately on leaving Berwick, enter * For a fuller account of this fifhery, vide Brltifh Zoology^ III. 241. to i: may be alfo added, that in the middle of the river, not a mile well of the town, is a large ilone, on which a man is placed, to obferve what is called the reck of the falmon coming up. SCOT- 42 A 1* O U R SCOTLAND, in the fliire of Merely or Afers *. A litde way from Berwick^ on the weft, is Halydon hill, famous for the overthrow of the Scots under the regent Doug- las^ by Edward III. on the attempt of the former to raiie the fiege of the town. A cruel adion blafted the laurels of the conqueror: Setoriy the governor, flipulated to furrender in fifteen days, if not relieved in that time, and gave his fon as hoftage for performance. The time elapfed ; Seton refufed to execute the agreement, and with a Roman unfeclingncfs beheld the unhappy youth hung before the walls. The entrance into Scotland has a very unpro- mifing look -, for it wanted, for fome miles, the cultivation of tlie parts more diftant from England : but the borders were necelTarily neglected •, for, till the acceftion c{ James VI. and even long after, the national enmity was kept up, and the borderers of both -countries difcouragcd from improvement, by the barbarous inroads of each nation. This inat- tention to agriculture continued till lately -, but on reaching tlie fmall village of Eytown^ the fcene was greatly altered ; the wretclied cottages, or rather hovels of the country, were vanifliing ; good com- fortable houfes arife in their (lead ; the lands are inclofing, and yield very good barley, oats, and clover ; the banks are planting : I fpeak in the prcfent tenfe ; for4here is dill a mixture of the * Boetbius fays, that in his time buflards were found in this county ; but they arc now extirpated : the hiltorian calls them Guftardei. Dcfc. Scot, xiii. old I 1 N S C O T L A N D. 43 old neglifrence left amidft the recent improvements, which look like the works of a new colony in a wreiched impoveriilied country. Soon after the country relapfes ; no arable land is feen ; but for four or live miles fucceeds the black joylefs he^iihy moor of Col^ingb.im : happi- Coldingh,iv:» ly, this is the whole fpecimen that remains of the many miles, which, not many years ago, were in the fame dreary unprofitable ftate. Near this was the convent of that name immortalized by the he- roifm of its Nuns ; who, to prcferve themfeives inviolate from the Danes^ cut off their lips and nofes ; and thus rendering themfeives objecls of horror, were, with their abbefs Ebba *, burnt in the monaftery by the difappointed favages. At the end of the moor came at once in fight of the Firth -'- of Forth ; a moft extcnfive profped"!: of that great arm of the fea, of the rich country of Eajt Lothian., the Bnfs IJle j and at a diftance, the ifle of Mry, the coaft of the county of Fife, and the country as far as Montr ofe. After o-oino; down a lonj? defcent, dine at Old DO O ' Cambus, at a mean houfe, in a poor village-, where I believe the Lord of the foil is often execrated by the weary traveller, for not enabling the tenant lo furnifli more comfortable accommodations, in fo confiderable a thoroughfare. *A.D. 870. f Bodoiria oi Tacitus, who defcribes the two Firths oi Clyde * zn<i Forih, and the intervening Ifthmas, with much proprie- ty, fpeaking of the fourth fuirmer Agncola had palTed in Britain, and how convenient he found this narrow traft for fhuctiiig out the enemy by his fortrefles, fays, AW; Glota (Firth o{ Clyde) et Bodotria, di-verji maris ajlu per immenfum ti'vedif angujio ta rarutn fpatio dirimuntur, Vit. Agr. The 44 A 1' O U R ♦ The country becomes now extremely fine; bounded at a diftance, on one fide, by hills \ on the other, by the fea : the intervening fpace is as rich a trad of corn land as I ever faw i for Eaft Lothian is the Northamptonjhire of North Britain : the land is in many places manured with fea tang ; but I was informed, that the barley produced from it is much lighter than barley from other manure. On the fide of the hills, on the left, is Sir John Hairs, of Dunglas ; a fine fituation, with beautifull plantations. Pafs by Brcxmouth^ a large houfe of the Duke of Roxbcrcugh^ in a low fpot, with great woods furrounding it. Reach Dunbar. Dunbar : the chief ftreet broad and handfome ; the houfes built of ftone ; as is the cafe with moft of the towns in ScotUmd. There are fome fliipsfent annually from this place to Greenland, and the ex- ports of corn are pretty confiderable. The harbour is fafe, but fnjall •, its entrance narrow, and bound- ed by two rocks. Between the harbour and the Columnar callle is a very furprifing flratum of ftone, in fome refpefts rekmbling that of Giant's Caufcvjay in Ireland : it confifts of great columns of a red grit ftone, either triangular, quadrangular, pentangular, or hcxangular ; their diameter from one to two feet, their length at low water thirty, dipping or inclin- ing a little to the fouth. They are jointed, but not fo regularly, or fo plainly, as thofe that form the Giant's Caufeivay, The furface of feveral that had been torn ofFappear as a pavement of numbers of convex ends, probably unfwering to the concave bottoms of other joints gnce recks. I N S C O T L A N D. 45 once incumbent on them. The fpace between the columns was filled with thin fepta of red and white fparry matter ; and veins of the fame pervaded the columns tranfverfely. This range of columns faces the north, with a point to the eaft, and extends in front about two hundred yards. The breadth is inconfiderable : the reft of the rock degenerates into fhapelefs mafTes of the fame fort of ftone, irre- gularly divided by thick fepta. This rock is called by the people of Dunbar, the IJle. Oppofite are the ruins of the caftle, feated on a rock above the fea ; underneath one part is a vaft cavern, compofed of a black and red ftone, which gives it a moft infernal appearance ; a fit reprefen- tation of the pit of Acheron, and wanted only to be peopled with witches to make the fcene complete : it appears to have been the dungeon, there being a formed paftage from above, where the poor pri- foners might have been let down, according to the barbarous cuftom of war in early days. There are in fome parts, where the rock did not clofe, the remains of walls ; for the openings are only natural fifTures -, but the founders of the caftle taking ad- vantage of this cavity, adding a little art to it, ren- dered it a moft complete and fecure prifon. On the other fide are two natural arches, throiic^h which the tide flowed ; under one was a fragment of wall, where there feems to have been a portal for the admiffion of men or provifions from fea : thro which, it is probable that Alexander Ramfay, in a ftormy night, reinforced the garrifon, in fpite of the fleet which lay before the place, when clofely * befieged 4^ A T O U R befieged by the Englijh^ in 1337, and galantly de- fended for nineteen weeks by that heroine black Jgnes^ Countels of March *. ^ Through one of thefe afches was a mofl pic- turefque view of the Bafs IJle, with the fun fetting m full fplt-ndor ; through the other of the May ifland, gilt by its beams. Over the ruins of a window were the three legs, or arms of the Ifle of Ma7Jy a lion rampant, and a St. Andrew'' s crofs. juLviS. Rode within fight of T^antallon "caftle, now 4 wretched ruin -, once the feat of the powerfull Ar- chibald Douglas^ Earl of Angus, which for fome time renfted all the efforts oi James V. to fubdue it. A little further, about a mile from the fiiorci 2?r7/i Ifle. lies the Bcifs IQand, or rather rock, of a mod ftu- pendous height •, on the fouth fide tlie top appears of a conic fiiape, but the other over-hangs the fea in a molt tremendous manner. The caftle, which was once the flate prifon of Scotland^ is now neg- Je6led : it lies clofe to the edge of the precipice, facing the little village of Cajileton ; where 1 toke boat, in order to vifit this fingular fpot ; but the weather proved unfavorable, the wind blew io frcfh, and the waves ran fo high, that it was im- poiTible to attempt landing ; for even in cahncr weather it cannot be done without hazard, there * Buchanan, lib. ix. c. 25. The EtipIiJJj were obliged to defill from their entt rprize. yfgnes was cldcll daughter of Sir Thomas Randal, oi Snadoivn, Earl of Murray, and nephew tf) Ralert Bruce. She was called black Annes, fays Robert Lindefay, bccaufe file was black- (kinned. being I N S C O T L A N D. 4X hclncr a fteep rock to afcend, and comnionly a crreat fwell, which often removes the boat while you afe fcaling the precipice 5 fo, in cafe of a falfe ftep, there is the chance of falling into a water almoft unfathomable. Various forts of water fowl repair annually to this rock to breed i but none in greater numbers than the Gannets^ or Solahd geefe, multitudes of Gannetj; which were then fitting on their nefts near the floping part of the ifle, and others flying over our boat : it is not permitted to fhoot at them, the place being farmed principally on account of the profit arifing from the fale of the young of thefe birds, and of the Kittiwake^ a fpecies of gull, fo called from its cry. The firft are fold at Edin- burgh * for twenty- pence apiece, and ferved up roafted a little before dinner. This is the only kind of provifion whofe price has not been ad- vanced ; for we learn from Mr. R^^y, that it was equally dear above a century ago -f. It is un- necefliary to fay more of this fmgular bird, as it has been very fully treated of in the fecond volume of the Britijk Zoology. With much difficulty landed at North Berwick^ three miles diftant from Cafdeton, the place we intended to return to. The firft is a fmall town, pleafantly fcated near a high c";nic hill, partly •SOLAN GOOSE. There is to be fold, by John Watson, Jun. at his Stand at x.htVon\X)\ Ei^inburgh,~ii\i iawiuii daysin the week, wind and ^veather ferving, good and freth Solan Geel'e. Any who hav{j ■ occafion for the lame may have them at rcafonable rates. Aug.^> 1768. Edinburgh Advcrtiser. t Rafi Itinerants, igz, planeed 4S A T O U R planted with trees : it is feen at a great diftanCCf and is called the Law of Berwick ; a name given to feveral other high hills in this part of the ifland. Frejion Pans, Pafs through Abberladie and Prejlon Pans : the laft takes its name from its falt-pans, there being a confiderablc work of that article ; alfo another of vitriol. Saw at a fmall diftance the field of battle, or rather of carnage, known by the name of the bat- tle oi Prefton Pans, where the Rebels gave a Icflbn of feverity, which was more than retaliated, the following fpring, at CuUoden. Obferved, in this day's ride, (I forget the fpot) the once princely feat of the Earl q>{ JVintoun^ now a ruin -, judicioufly lefc in that ftate, as a proper remembrance of the fad fate of thofe who engage in rebelhous politicks. There are great marks of improvement on ap- proaching the capital ; the roads good, the country very populous, numbers of manufactures carried on, and the profped embclliflied with gentlemen's feats. Reach Edinburgh EDINBURGH, A city that pofienes a boldnefs and grandeur of fituation beyond any that I had ever feen : it is buik on the edges and fides of a vaft Hoping rock, of a great and precipitous height at the upper ex- tremity, and the fides declining very quick and deep into the plain. The view of the houles at a diftance ftrikes the traveller with wonder ; their own loftinefs, improved by their almoft aerial fitu- ation, gives them a look of magnificence not to be found in any other part of Cireat Britahu All thefe confpicuous buildings form the upper part of the fu ^A^ t h^ ' 4'^ 7(^c:s% INSCOTLAND. 49 the great ftreet, are of ftone, and make a handfome appearance : they are generally fix or feven ftories high in front ; but, by reafon of the declivity of the hill, much higher backward ; one in particular, called Babel, has about twelve or thirteen ftories. Every houfe has a common ftaircafe, and every ftory is the habitation of a feparate family. The inconvenience of this particular ftrudlure need not be mentioned ; notwithllanding the utmoft atten- tion, in the article of cleanlinefs, is in general obferved. The common complaint of the ftreets oi Edinburgh \s now taken away, by the great vigi- lance of the magiftrates *, and their feverity againfl: any that offend in any grofs degree i". It mull be obferved, that this unfortunate fpecies of archi- tefture arofe from the turbulence of the times in which it was in vogue ; every body was defirous of getting as near as poflible to the protection of the caftle, the houfes were crouded together, and I may fay, piled one upon another, merely on the principle of fecurity. The caftle is antient, but ftrong, placed on the Caftlc. fummit of the hill, at the edge of a very deep pre- cipice. Strangers are Ihewn a very fmail room, in which Mary Queen of Scots was delivered oi James VI. * The ftreets are cleaned early every morning. Once the City payed for the cleaning ; at prefcnt, it is rented for 4 or 500 1, per annum. f In the clofes, or allies, the inhabitants are very apt to fling out their filth, &c. without regarding who pafTes j bus the fuft'erer may call every inhabitant of the houfe it came from to account, and make them prove the delinquent, who is always punilhed with a heavy fine. E From 50 Refervoir. Advocate's Library. A T O U R From this fortrefs is a full view of the city and its environs -, a ftrange profped: of rich country, with vaft rocks and mountains intermixed : on the fouth and eafl are the meadows, or the publick walks, Herriot's hofpital, part of the town over- fhadowed by the ftupcndous rocks of Arthur's, feat and Salujhury\ Craigs, the Pentland hills at a few miles diftance, and at a Itill greater, thofe ofMuir' foott whofe fides are covered with verdant turf. To the north is a full view of the Firth oi Forth, from ^teen's Ferry to its mouth, with its fouthern banks covered with towns and villages. On tlie whole, the profpedt is fingular, various and fine The refervoir of water * for fupplying the city lies in the Caftle-ftreet, and is well worth feeing : the great ciftern contains near two hundred and thirty tuns of water, which is conveyed to the feve- ral conduits, that are difpofed at proper diftances in the principal ftreets \ thefe are conveniences that few towns in North Britain are without. On the fouth fide of High-Jlreet, is the Parle- ment Clofe, a fmall fquare, in which is the Parlc- ment-Houfe, where the courts of juftice are held. Below flairs is tHe Advocate's library, founded by Sir George Mackenzie, and now contains above thirty thoufand volumes, and feveral manufcripts : among the more curious are the four Evangelifls, very legible, notwithftanding it is faid to be feverial hundred years old. St. Jerome^ Bible, wrote about the year i,ioo. * It is conveyed in pipes from the PentlandhWU five milcaj diftant. A Malabar] I N S C O T L A N D. >i A Malabar book, wrote on leaves of plants.' A Turkijh manufcript, illuminated in ibme parts like a miiTal. Elogium in fultan morad filium filii Soliman "Turcici. Script. CofiJiantinopoU. Anno Hegir^» 992. A Cartulary, or records of the mona(lcries,fome very antient. A very large Bible, bound in four volumes •, illuftrated with fcripture prints, by the firft en- gravers, pafted in, and colle61ed at a vaft expence. There are befides great numbers of antiquities, not commonly (hewn, except enquired after. The Luckenbooth row, v/hich contains the Tol- hooth^ or city prifon, and the weighing-houfe, which brings in a revenue of ijOoX.per annum^ ftands in the middle of the high-itreet, and, with the guard- houfe, contributes to fpoil as fine a ftreet as mod in Europe^ being in fome parts eighty feet wide, and finely built. The exchange is a handfome modern building, in which is the cuftom-houfe : the firft is of no ufe, in its proper character -, for the merchants al- ~ ways chufd Handing in the open ftreet, expofed tq all kinds of weather. The old cathedral is now called the New Church, and is divided into four places of worfhip ; in one the Lords of the SefTions attend : there is alfo a throne and a canopy for his Majefty, fhouid he vifit this capital, and another for the Lord Coirj- mifTioner. There is no mufic either in this or any other of the Scotch churches, for Peg flill faints at the found of an organ. This is the more fur- E 2 prizing. 3^ A TOUR prizing, as the Dutch, who have the fame cfta- bliftied religion, are extremely fond of thatfolemn inftrument -, and even in the great church of Geneva the Pfaimody is accompanied with an organ. The fame church has a large tower, oddly ter- minated with a fort of crown. On the front of a houfe in the Nether Bowy are two fine profile heads of a man and woman, of Roman fculpture, fuppofcd to be thofe of Severus Sind Julia: but, as appears from an infcription * made by the perfon who put them into the wall, were miftaken tor yldam and Eve. Near the Trone church are the remains of the houfe once inhabited by Alary Stuart ; now a tavern. At the end of the Cannofigate-Street Hands Holy- Noly-Rood jIqq^ palace, orriginally an abby founded by David I. in 1 1 23. The towers on the N. W. fide were erefted by James V. together with other buildings, /or a royal refidence : according to the editor of Camhden, great part, except the towers above- mentioned, were burnt by Cromwel ; but the other towers, with the reft of this magnificent palace, as it now ftands, were executed by Six IVilliam Bruce^ by the diredions of Charles II. within is a beauti- full fquare, with piazzas on every fide. It contains great numbers of fine apartments *, fome, that are called the King's, are in great diforder ; the reft are granted to feveral of the nobility. In the Earl of Breadalbane''sy arc fome excellent • In fuu'ore I'ultus tui 'vejceris pane. An nO 162 1. Thcft heads are well engrsvenin iter^fn's. Itinerary, tab. iii. portraits. O T L A N D. 55 portraits, particularly three full lengths, remark-' ably fine, by Vandyck^ of Henry Earl of Holland^ TVilliam Duke of Newcajik, Charles Earl of IVarivick *, And by Sir P^ter Lely, the Duke and Dutchefs of Lauderdale^ and Edward Earl of Jerfey, There is befides a very good head of a boy, by MorrilUo^^ and fome views of the fine fcenes near his Lord- fhip's feat at Taymouth. At Lord Dumnore\ lodgings is a very large piece of Charles I. and his Queen going to ride, with the fky fhowering rofes on them ; a Black holds a grey horfe, a boy a fpaniel, with feveral other dogs fporting round : the Queen is painted with a love- lock, and with browner hair and compkdlion, and younger, than I ever fa\f her drawn. It is a good piece, and faid to be done by Vandyck. In the fame place are two other good portraits of Charles II. and James VII. The gallery of this palace takes np one fide, and is filled with coloflfal portraits of the Kings of Scot- land, In the old towers are (howen the apartments where the murther of David Rizzo was committed. That beautiful piece of golhic architefture the Chapel* church, or chapel, of Holy- Rood- Abby, is now a ruin, the foof having fell in, by a moft fcandalous negleft, notwithftanding money had b'ien granted by Government to preferve it entire. Beneath the ruins lie the bodies of James IL and James V. • I am informed that the portraits of the j^iitfls of HellanJ and Warivick are now removed to Tajmuntb^ E 3 Henr 54, . A T O U R Her.ry Darnly^ and feveral ptrfons of rank: and the infcriptions on feveral of their tombs are preferved by Maitland. A gentleman informed me, that fome years ago he had feenthe remains of the bodies, but in a very decayed flate •, the beards remained on fome ; and that the bones of Henry Damly proved their owner, by their great fize, for he was" faiJ to be fcven feet high. Parks. Near this palace are the Parks firft inclofed by James V. within are the vart" rocks * known by the names oi Arthur\ Seat and Snlufhury''^ Craigs ; their fronts exhibit a romantic and wild fcene of broken rocks and vail precipices, which from fome points feem to over-hang the lower parts of the city. Great columns of flone, from forty to fifty feet in length, and about two feet in diameter, regularly -pentagonal, or hexagonal, hang down the face of fome of tnefe rocks almoft: perpendicularly, or with a very flight dip, and form a'ftrange appearance. Confidcrable quantities of ftone from the quarries have been cut and fent to London for paving the llreets, its great hardnefs rendering it excellent for that purpofe. Beneath thtfc hills are fome of the moft beautiful walks about Edinburgh, command- ing a fine profpeft over fcviral" parts of the country. On one fide of the .P-^r^ are the ruins of Si.An- thonyh chapel, once the refort of numberlefs vo- taries. HerrinrsHoC- The fouih part of the city has feveral things pital. worth yifuing. Herriot\ hofpital is a fine old buildin^> much too magnificent for the end pro- * AccordiW to Maitland, their perpendicular height is 656 feet. " v-^ , - pofed, : I N S C O T L A N D. 55 pofed, that of educating poor children : it was founded by George Herriot, jeweller to James VL who followed that monarch to London^ and made a large fortune. There is a fine view of the caftle and the Hoping part of the city from the front : the gardens were formerly the refort of the gay ; and there the Scotch Poets often laid, in their co- medies, the fcenes of intrigue. In the church-yard of the Grey Friers is the mo- nument of Sir George Mackenfic^^ a rotunda ; with a multitude of other tombs j this, and another near the Cannon-gate being the only casmeteries to this populous city. The college is a mean building ; but no one re- College, fides in it except the Principal, v/hofe houfe is fup- pofed to be on the fite of that in \^\\\z\\'H.enry Darnly was murdered, then belonging to the Provoll of the Kirk of Field. The ftudents of tHe univerfity arc difper fed over the town, and are about fix hundred in number: they wear no habit, nor are they fubje6t to any regulations j but, as they are for the moft part volunteers for knowlege, few of them defert her flandards. There are twenty-two profeflbrs of different fciences, moft of whom read ledurcs: all the chairs are very ably filled ; thofe in particular which relate to the ftudy of medicine, as is evident from the number of ingenious phyficians, eleves of this univerfity, who prove the abilities of their maf- ters. The Mtif^um had, for many years, been neglefted ; but, by the adiduity of the prefentPro- feffor of natural hiftory, bids fair to become a moft inftrudive repofitory of the naturalia of thefc king- do.ms. E 4 The 5^ A T O U R Infirmary. The royal infirmary is a fpatious and handfomc ffdifice, capable of containing two hundred patients. The operation-room is particularly convenient, the counc:l-room elegant, with a good picture in it of Frovoft Drtunmond. From the cupolo of this building is a fine profpcd, and a full view of the city. Not far from hence are twenty-feven acres of ground, defigned for a fquare, called Gecrge ^qiiare: a fmall portion is at prefent built, confifting of fmall but commodious houfes, in the Englijh falhion. Such is the Ipirit of improvement, that •within thefe three years fixty thoufand pounds have been expended in houfes in the modern tafte, and twenty thoufand in the old. Watjon\ hofpital fhould not be forgot : a large good building, behind the Grey Friers church j an excellent inftitution for the educating and appren- iicing the children of decayed merchants ; who, after having fcrved their time with credit, receive fifty pounds to fet up with. The meadows^ or public walks, are well planted, and are very extenfive : thefe are the mall of Edin- burgh, as Comely Gardens are its l/auxhalL The Cowgate is a long ftreet, running parallel with the High Street^ beneath the lleep fouthern declivity of the city, and terminates in the Grafs- Market^ a wjdp ftreet, where cattle are fold, and criminals executed. On fcveral of the houfes are fmall iron crofTes, which, I was informed, denoted that they once belonged to the Knights of St. 'Jckn, 0\\ INSCOTLAND. S7 On the north fide of the city lies the new town, which is planned with great judgement, and will prove a magnificent addition to Edinburgh ; the houfes in St. Andrew's fquare coft from 1800I. to 2000I. each, and one or two 4000 or 5000I. They are all built in the modern ftyle, and are free from the inconveniences attending the* old city. Th-fe improvements are connected to the city by a very beautiful bridge, whofe higheft arch is ninety-five ittt high. In the walk of this evening, I palTed by a deep and wide hollow beneath Calton Hill, the place where thofe imaginary criminals, witches and for- cerers in lefs enlightened times, were burnt ; and where, at feftive feafons, the gay and gallant held their tilts and tournaments: atone of thefe, it is faid, that the Earl of Bothwell made the firft im- preflion on the fufceptible heart of Mary Stuart^) having galopped into the ring down the dangerous fleeps of the adjacent hill ; for he feemed to think that Women, born to be control'd. Stoop to the forward and the bold. Thefe defperate feats were the humour of the times of chivalry : Brantome relates, that the Due de Nemours galopped down the fleps of the Sainte Ckappel at Paris, to the aflonilhment of the be- holders. The men cultivated every exercife that could preferve or improve their bodily ftrength j the ladies, every art that tended to improve their charms : Mary is reported to have ufed a bath of white wine ; a cuftom ftrange, but not without precedent. Jaques du FouiUoux, enraptured with a * country 5% A T O U R country girl, enumerating the arts which flie fcornctl to life to improve her perfon, mentions rhis ; Point ne portoit de ce linge femelle Pour amoindrir fon feing et fa mammelle. Vafquine nulle, ou aucun peli^oa Elle ne portoit, ce n'eftoit fa fa^on. Point nc prcnajt 'vin blanc pour fe 'baignery Ne drogue encore pour fon corps alleger *, 'At a fmall walk's diftance from Colion Hill lies the new botanic garden -f-, cqnfiftingof five acres of ground, a green- houfe fifty feet long, two tem- perate rooms, each twelve feet, and two floves, each twenty-eight : the ground rifes to the north, and defends the plants from the cold winds : the foil a light fand, with a black earth on the furface. It is finely flocked with plants, whofe arrangement and cultivation do much credit to my worthy friend Dr. Hope, ProfcITor of Botany, who planned and executed the whole. It was begun in 1764, being founded by the munificence of his prefent Majefty, who granted fifteen hundred pounds for that pur- pofe. , During this week's flay at Edinburgh, the prices of provifions were as follow : Beef, from ^d. to 3d. ^, Mutton, from 4d. to 3d. ^. Veal, from 5d. to 3d. J^amb, 2d. ■^. Bacon, 7d. Butter, in fummer, 8d. in winter, is. * VAdokfcenct dt Jaqucs dff Fouilhux, % 2. f The old botanic garden lies to the eaft of the new bridge ; an account of it is to be feen in the Mu/tim £it!/ouria»tm. ; Pigeons, I N S C O T L A N D; 59 Pigeons, /(^r dozen, from 8d. to 5s. • Chickens, per pair, 8d. to is, A fowl, IS. 2d. Green goofe, 3s. Fat goofe, 2s. 6d. Large turkey, 4s. or 5s. Pig, 2 s. Coals, 5d. or 6d. per hundred, delivered. Many fine excurfions may be made at a fmall diftance from this city. Leith, a large town, about Leit% two miles north, lies on the Firth, is a flourifhing place, and the port of Edinburgh. The town is dirty and ill built, and chiefly inhabited by failors -, . ^ but the pier is very fine, and is a much- frequented walk. The races were at this time on the fands, near low-water mark : confidering their vicinity to a great city and populous country, the meeting was far from numerous ; a proof that dilTipation has not generally infefted the manners of the North Britons. Craigmellar caflle is feated on a rocky eminence, about two miles fouth of Edifiburghy is fquare, and has towers at each corner. Some few apartments are yet inhabited ; but the reft of this great pile is in ruins. Ne-zvhitle, the feat of the Marquifs of Lothian, is a pleafant ride of a few miles from the capital. It was once siCiJiercian abby, founded, by David I. in II 40 •, but, in 1 59 1, was ere died into a lordfhip, • in favour of Sir Alark Ker, fon of Sir Walter Ker, of Cefsford. The houfe lies in a warm bottom, and, like moll other of the houfes of the Scotch nobility, refembles <^o A T O U R rcfembles a French Chateau, by having a village or little paltry town adjacent. 1 he fituation is very favorable to trees, as appears by the vaft fize of thofe near the houfe ; and I was informed, that fruit ripens here within ten days as early as at Chelfea. The Marquifs poflelTes a moil valuable colkdion of portraits, many of them very fine, and alraoft all very inftruftive : a large half-length of Henry Barnly reprefents him tall, aukvvard and gauky, with a ftupid, infipid countenance -, mod likely drawn after he had loft, by intemperance and de- bauchery, thofe charms which captivated the heart of the amorous Mary. A head of her mother, Marie de Guife; not lefs beautifuil than !re.r daughter. A head of Madame Monpenfter, and of feveral other illuflrious perfons, who graced the court of Louis XIII. Prince Rupert and Prince Mciuric£y in one piece. Some Imall portraits, ftudies of Fa^idyk ; among which n one of ff^^ilLam Earl of Pembroke, of whom Lord Clarendon gives fo advantageous a charadlcr. A beautifuil l\alf-length of Henrietta, Queen of Charles I. her charms almoft apologize for the com- pliances of the uxorious monarch. His daughter, the Dutchefs of Orleans. The wife of Philip the bold, infcribed Margci Mala, Lodo Mala. Head of Robert Car, Earl of ^omcrfet ; the coun- tenance effeminate, fmall features, light flaxen or yellowifli hair, and a very fmall beard : is an ori- ginal of that worthlefs favorite, and proves that the INSCOTLAND. ^^ the figure given as his among the illuflrious heads is erroneous, the lail being reprefented as a robuft black man. His father. Sir Robert Car. An Earl of Somerjet^ of whom I could get no account -, handfomci with long light hair inclining to yellow : a head. A full length of James I. by Jamefon. Another of Charles I. when young, in rich armour, black and gold : a capital piece. Lady Tufion ; a fine half-length. Earl Morton^ regent: half-length; a yellow beard. Two very curious half-lengths on wood : one of a man with a long forked black beard ; his jacket flaflied down in narrow flripes from top to bottom, and the ftripes loofe : the other with a black full beard, the fame fort of ftripes, but drawn tight by a girdle. The Doge of Venice^ by Titian. Three by Morillio \ boys and girls in low life. A remarkable fine piece of our three firft cir- cum-navigatorsj Drake, Hawkins and Candifi, half- length. The heads of Mark Earl of Lothian , and his lady, by Sir Antonio More. Mark Ker, prior of Neivbottki who, at the refor- mation, complied with the times, and got the eftate of the abby. In the woods adjacent to this feat are fomc fub- Subterranc terraneous apartments and pafTages cut out of the ^^^ rooms, live rock. A few miles diftant from there, near Hawthorn-Den, the refidence of the celebrated poet Drummond^ Cz A T O U R T>rummond *, are, as I was informed, others of the fame nature, but of greater extent, which Do6lor Stukely + calls a Pi^i/h caftle. Thefe places, in fa6t, were excavated by the antient inhabitants of the country, either as receptacles for their provi- fions, or for retreats for themfelves or families, in time of war, in the fame manner as Tacitus relates was the cuftom of the Germam J. Two or three miles diftant from Newhottk is Dalkeith. Dalkeith, a fmall town, adjoining to D^/^'<:///:'-hoiife, the feat of the Duke of Bucckugh : originally the property of the Douglafes, and was, when in form of a caftle, of great ftrength •, and, during the time of the Regent Morton'% retreat, ftyled the Lion's Ben, The portraits at Dalkeith are numerous, and fome good : among others, the Firft Duke of Richnond and his Dutchefs. The Dutchefs of Cleveland. Countefs of Buccleugb, mother to the Dutchefs of Monmouth, and Lady Eglintcn, her fifter. The Dutchefs and her two fons : the Dutchefs of Tork ; her hand remarkably fine : the Dutchefs of Lenox. Mrs. Sufanna JVaters, mother of the Duke of McJimouth, with his pifture in her hand. • Who is faid to have compofed his poems in one of thefe caves : he flourKhcd in the time of 'Ja>/i:s VI. f Vide Ithi. Curio/um. 50. tab. 3B. J Solent €t Jul)tcrrdHeos fptcui aperire, ecfque muUo infuptrjimo OMCrantf/uff'ugiiimhiemi, et rectptaculum frugtbu!, quia rigorem frigorum ejnjmodi iocis molliunt : et ft quando lioftii advenit aperta pofulalur : Abdita autem et defojfa, ignorant ur, aut to ipf» fallunt, quod luarenda Junt . De Moribus Gcrmanor. c. 16. Dutchefs I N S C O T L A N D. Cj Dutchcfs of Cleveland and her ion, an infant ; fhe in character of a Madonna : fine. The Duke of Monmouth, in charafter of a young St. John. Lord Strafford and his Secretary ; a fmall fludy of Vandyk. Henry VIII. and Queen Catherine, with the di- vorce in her hand ; two fmall pieces, by Holbein* Anna Mullein, by the fame, dreffed in a black gown, large yellow netted fleeves, in a black cap, peaked behind. Lady Jane Gray, with long hair, black and very thick ; not handfome •, but the virtues and the in- tclledtual perfections of that fuffering innocent, more than fupplied the abfence of perfonal charms. A large fpirited pidure of the Duke oi Monmouth on hoifeback. The fame in armour. All his pic- tures have a handfome likenefs of his father. Dutchefs of Richmond^ with a bow in her hand, by Sir Peter Leiy. A fine head of the late Duke of- Ormond. A beautiful! head o^ Mary Stuart ; the face fiiarp, thin and young ; yet has a likenefs to fome others of her pictures done before misfortunes had altered her ; her drefs a ftrait gown, open at the top and reaching to her cars, a fmall cap, and fmall ruff, with a red rofe in her hand. In this palace is a room entirely furnifned by Charles \l. on occafion of the marriage oi Mon- mouth with the heirefs of the houfe *. • Since this, I have been informed that not far from Dal' keith, at Rcfslyn, is a mod beautiful! and entire chapel of go- thic archiiedure, well worth a vifit from a curious Traveller, 2 At $4 A T O U R AiSmefotiy another feat of the Duke oi Buccleugh^ a mile diftant •'^rom tlie firft, is a fine half-length of General Mo7ik looking over his Ihoulder, with his back towards you : he refided long at Dalkeith^ when he commanded in Scotland, Nell G'wimic, loofely attired. A fine marriage of St. Catherine^ by Vandyk, July Z4. Left Edinburgh, and pafs'd beneath the caftle, whofe height and ftrength, in my then fituation, appeared to great advantage. The country I paft through was well cultivated, the fields large, but moftly inclofed with flone walls -, for hedges are not yet become univerfal in this part of the kingdom : it is not a century fince they were known here. Reach the South-Ferry^ a fmall village on the banks of the Firth, which fuddenly is contracted to the breadth of two miles by the jutting out of the land on both fhores -, but almoft inftantly widens, towards the weft, into a fine and extenfive bay. The profpecft on each fide is very beautifull ; a rich country, frequently diverfified with towns, villages, caftles, and gentlemen's feats *. There is befide a vaft view up and down the Firth, from its extremity, not remote from Sterling, to its mouth near Mey ifle ; in all, about fixty miles. This Ferry is alfo culled ^teen'^s -Ferry ^ being the paflage much ufed i" by Margaret, queen to Mal- com III. and fifter to Edgar Etheling^ her refidencc • Such as Scith caftl«, Dumfcrlinc town, Lord Mcrn's^s, Lord Hopetoun'i, Captain DundaJ's''%. ■\ Or, as others fay, bccaulc fhe, her brother and filler, firfl landed there, after their efcapc from Williavi the Conqueror. being d IN SCOTLAND. ^5 being at Bumfcrline. Crofs over in an excellent pafTage-boa,: ; obferve midway the little ifle called Inch-Garvey^ with the ruin of a Imall caftle. An ar5lic gull flew near the boat, purfued by other gulls, as birds of prey are : this is the fpecies that perfecutes and purfues the leiler kinds, till they mute through fear, when it catches up their excre- ments e'er they reach the water : the boatmen, on that account, flyled it the dirty AuliH. Landed in the (hire of Fife *, at North Ferry^ Granite near which arc the great granite quarries, which quarry. help to fupply the ftreets of London with paving ftones j many Ihips then waiting near, in order to take in their lading. The granite lies in great per- pendicular flacks ; above which, a reddifli earth filled with friable micaceous nodules. The granite itfelf is very hard, and is all blailed with gun- powder : the cutting into Ihape for paving cods two (hillings and eight pence per tun, and the freight to London feven (hillings. The country, as far as Kinrofs, is very fine, con- fifting of gentle rifings -, much corn, efpecially Bear 'i but few trees, except about a gentleman's feat, called Blair ^ where there are great and flou- rifhing plantations. Near the road are the lafl collieries in Scotland, except the mconfiderable works in the county of Sutherland. Kinrofs is a fmall town, feated in a large plain, bounded by mountains j the houfes and trees are fd intermixed as to give it an agreeable appearance. It has fome manufa6lures of linnen and cutlery • Part of the antient Caledonia., F ware. t^ . A T O U R v/are. At this time was a meeting of juftices, on a fingular occafion : a vagrant had been, not long before, ordered to be whipped -, but fuch was the point of honor among the common people, that no one coLild be perkiadcd to go to Perth for the execu- tioner, who lived there : to prefs, I may fay, two men for that fervice was the caufe of the meeting •, fo Mr. Bofwell may rejoice to find the notion of honor pre- vale in as exalted a degree among his own country- men as among the virtuous Corficans *. Not far from the town is the houfe of Kinrofs^ built by the famous architefl Sir IVilliam Bruce^ for his own refidence, and was the firft good houfe in North Britain : it is a large, elegant, but plain building", the hall is fifty-two feet long, the grounds about it well planted, the fine lake adjacent -, fo that it is capable of being made as dclightfull a place as any in North Britain. Lough-Leven-, a magnificent piece of water, very broad, but irregularly indented, is about twelve miles in circumference, and its greateft depth about twenty-four fathoms: is finely bounded by moun- tains on one fide ; on the other, by the plain of Kinrofs^&nd prettily embellillied with feveral groves, moft fortunately difpofed. Some iflands are dif- perfed in this great expanfe of v;ater-, one of which is large enough to feed feveral head of cattle ; but the moft remarkable is that dillinguiflied by the captivity of A'/^ry 5'///^7r/, 'which (lands almoft in the middle of the lake. The caille ilill icnTains ; confills of a fquare to\\er, a fmall yard with two • Jl/j?. Cvrfua. p. 285, of the third edition. round! I INSCOTLAND. e^ round towers, a chapel, and the ruins of a building, where, it is faid, the unfortunate Princefs was lodged. In the fqiiare tower is a dungeon with a vaulted room above, over which had been three other {lo- ries. Some trees are yet remaining on this little fpot ; probably coeval with Mary^ under whofe fiiade (he may have fat, expeding her ei'cape at length efredlcd by the enamoured Douglas *. This caftle had* before been a royal refidence, but not for captive monarchs -, having been granted from the crown hy Robert III. to Douglas^ Laird oiLoch»_ Leven, St. Serfs ifle is noted for having been granted by Brnde^ laft King of the Pi'^s^ to St. Servan and the Culdeesi a kind of priefts among the firft Chrif- tians of North Britain, who led a fort of monaftic life in cells, and for a confiderable time preferved • a pure and uncorrupt religion ; at length, in the reign of David I. were fupprelTed in favor of the church of Rome. The priory of Port-jnonk vfas on - this iQe, of which fome fmallremains yet exift. The fifli of this lake are Pike, fmall Perch, fine Filh Ss birds. Eels, and moft excellent Trouts ; the beft and the reddefl I ever faw •, the largeft about fix pounds in weight. The fifiiermen gave me an account of a fpecies they called the Gaily Trout, which are only- caught from 0<^<7Z'^r to January; are fplit, faked and * Kiftorlans differ in refpeft to the caufe that influenced him to aflifl in his fovereign's efcape ; fome attribute it to his ava- rice, and think he was bribed with jewels, referved by Mary ; others, that he was touched by a more generous paflTion : the laft opinion is the moft natural, confidering the charms of the Queen and the youth of her deliverer. F 2 dried. 6S A T O U R cried, for winter provifion : by the delcriptlon, they certainly were our Char, only of a larger fize than any we have in England^ or IFales^ fome being two feet and a half long. The birds that breed on the illes, are Herring Gulls, Pewit Gulls, and great Terns, called here Piclarnes. Lay at a good inn, a fingle houfe, about half a mile North of Kinrofs, TuLV 25. Made an cxcurfion about feven miles well, to fee Rumbling ^^^ rumbling brig at Glen-devon, a bridge of one arch, flung over a chafm worn by the river Devon, about eighty feet deep, very narrow, and horrible to look down ; the bottom, in many parts, is covered with fragments of rocks; in others, the waters arc vifible, gulhing between the ftones with great vio- lence : the fides, in many places, projed, and al- moll lock in each other; trees fhoot out in various fpots, and contribute to encreafe the gloom of the glen, while the ear is filled with the cawing of daws, the cooing of wood-pigeons, and the impetuous noife of the waters. Canvdrox ^ ""^il^ lowcr down is the Caivdron Glen: here Ckn. fhe river, after a fliort fall, drops on rocks hollowed in aftrange manner into large and deep cylindric cavities, open on one fide, or formed into great circular cavities, like cauldrons * : from whence the name of the place : one in particular has the appearance of a vaft brewing veflcl ; and the water, by its great agitation, has acquired a yellow fcum> • Jn Snutden, and the North of Germany, fuch holes at thefe are called Grant't Pots. Kalm's Voy.. I. 121. and Ph, Trauf, utrlJg. V. 165, 2 exadly INSCOTLAND. ^9 exadlly refembling the yefty working of male liquor, Juil beneath this the water darts down about thirty feet in form of a great white flieet : the rocks below widen confiderably, and their clifty fides are fringed with wood. Beyond is a view of a fine meadowy vale, and the diftant mountains near Sisrling. Two miles north is Caftk Campbell^ feated on a Cadle CW;/- lleep peninfulated rock between vafl: mountains, having to the fouth a boundlefs view through a deep glen fhagged with brufh wood •, for the forefts that once covered the country are now entirely de- ftroyed. Formerly, from its darkfome fituation, this pile was called the caftle oi Gloom ; and all th« names of the adjacent places were fuitable : it was feated in the pariih of Dolor-, was bounded by the glens of care^ and wafhed by the birns of forrozv. This cafiile, with the whole territory belonging to the family of Argyle^ underwent all the calamities of civil war in 1645 •, for its rival, the Marquis of Montrofe-, carried fire and fword through the whole eflate. The caftle v/as ruined ; and its magnificent reliques exift, as a monument of the horror of the times. No wonder then that the Marquis expe* rienced fo woeful and ignominious a fate, v/hen he fell into the power of fo exafperated a chieftain. Returned to my inn along the foot of the Ochil hills, whofe fides v/ere covered with a fine verdure, and fed great numbers of cattle and fheep. The country below full of oats, and in a very improving (late : the houfes of the common people decent, but moftly covered with fods •, fome were covered both with ftraw and fod. The inhabitants extremely F 3 civil. I yo A T O U R civil, and never failed offering brandy, or whey, when I flopt to make enquiries at any of their ho'jfes. In the afternoon crofTcd a branch of the fimie hills, which yielded plenty of oats •, defcended into Btraith-earn. Straith-eam^ a beautifuU vale, about thirty miles in length, full of rich meadows and corn fields, divided by the river Earn^ which ferpentines finely through the middle, falling into the T>>-, of which there is a fight at the eaft end of the vale. It is prettily diverfified with groves of trees and gentlemen's houfes ; among which, towards the weft end, is Cajlle Vru/umond, the forfeited feat of the Earl of Perth. Cofile Duplin * -, the refidence of the Earl of Kinnoul, feated on the north fide of the vale, on the edge of a fiecp glen. Only a fingle tower re- mains of the old caftle, the reft being modernized. The front commands a pleafing view of the vale ; behind are plantations, extending feveral miles in length ; all flourifli greatly, except thofe of afli. I remarked in the woods, fome very large chefnuts, horfe-chelhuts, fpruce and filver firs, cedar and arbor viice. Broad-leaved laburnum thrives in this country greatly, grows to a great fize, and the wood is ufed in fineerlng. ** fiuit. Fruits fucceed here very indifi^crently -, even non- pareils require a wall to ripen: grapes, figs, and late • Nenr this place was the battle of Duplin, M3 2, between the Englijh, under the command oi Bnliol, and x\ie Scots. The laft were defeated, and fuch a number of the name of liny flain, that the family would have been extinft, had not feve- ral of tlieir wives been left at home pregnant. peadies. I N S C O T L A N D. 71 peaches, will not ripen: the winters begin early and end late, and are attended with very high winds. I was informed that labor is dear here, notwithftand- Labor, ing it is only eight-pence a day j t-hecommon people not being yet got into a method of working, fo do very little for their wages. Notv^ithftandiiig this, improvements arecarried on in thefe parts with great fpirit, both in planting and in agriculture. Lord Ki nnou / phnted lad year not fewer than eighty thou- fand trees, befides Scolcb firs -, fo provides future forefts for the benefit of his fuccelTors, and the em- bellifhment of his country. In refped: to agricul- ture, there are difficulties to ftruggle with, for the country is without either cpal or lime ftone ; fo that the lime is brought from the eftate of the Earl of Elgin, near Dumferline, who, I was told, drew a confiderable revenue from the kilns. In Caftle Duplin are fome very good pidures ; a J'emarkable one of Luther, Bucer, and Catherine the nun, in the charafters of muficians, by Georgi- ani di Cajlel franco. A fine head of a fecular prieft, by Titian. St. Nicholas blefling three children. Two of cattle, by Rofa di Tivoli. A head of Spencer. Rtibens* head, by himfelf. A fine head of Butler, by Sir Peter Lely. Of the old Countefs of Defmond, by Rembrandt. Mrs. Tofts, in the charadler of St. Catherine, by Sir Godfrey Knelkr. Sir George Haye, of Maginnis, in armour, 1640-, done at Rome by L. Ferdinand. Haye, Earl of Carlijle, in Charles the Firft's time, young and veryhandfome, by Cornelius Janfen. The fecond Earl of Kinnoul, by Vandyk. F 4 Chancellor Hill of Men- cnef A T O U R I Chancellor Hayc, by Mytens. A good portriit of Lord Trcafurer Oxford, by Rickardfcn. And a beautiful! miniature of Sir John Earnly, July 27.' Afcended the hill of Moncrief-y the profpeft from thence is the glory of Scotland, and well merits the eulogia given it for the variety and richnefs of its views. On the fouth and well appear Slraithern, embelliflied with the feats of Lord Kinnoul, Lord Rollo-, and of feveral other gentlemen* the Carfe^ or rich plain of Cowrie, Stormont hills, and the hill of Kinnoul, whofe vaft cliff is remarkable for its beau- tiful! pebbles. The meanders of the Em, which winds more than any river I at this time had feen, are moft enlivening additions to the fcene. The lall turn it takes forms a fine peninfula prettily planted, and juft beyond it joins the ^ay, whofe ^eftuary lies full in view, the fea clofing the profpedt on this fide. To the north lies the town of Perth, with a view of part of its magnificent bridge •, which, with the fine woods called Perth Parks, the vaft plain of Strailh-Tay, the winding of that noble river, its iflands, and the grand boundary, formed by the diftant highlands, finilh this matchlcfs fcene. The inhabitants of Perth are far from being blind to the beauties of their river ; for with fingular plcafure they relate the tradition of the Roman army, when it came in fight of the Tay *, burfling into the ex- clamation of, Ecce Tiherims On approaching the town are fome pretty walks handfomely planted, and at a fmall diftance, the * Tau5, Tacit i 'vit.Agr. remains I N S C O T L A N D. 73 remains of fome works of Cromwell, called Oliver's Mount. Perth is large, and in general well-built •, two Pbrth, of the ftrects are remarkably fine ; in fome of the lefTer are yet a few wooden houfes in the old ftyle ; but as they decay, the magiftrates prohibit the re- building them in the old way. There is but one parifli, which has two churches, bcfides meetings! for feparatifts, who are very numerous. One church, which belonged to a monaftery, is very antient : not a veflige of the lafl is now to be feeti ; for thedifciples of that rough apoftle Knox made a general dcfolation of every edifice that had given flielter to the worfhippers of the church of Rome :• it being one of his maxims, to pull down the neftsj and the rooks would fly away. The fiourilhing ftate of Pert b is owing to two accidents : the firft, that of numbers oi CromweWs wounded officers and foldiers chufing to refide here, after he left the kingdom, who introduced a fpirit of induftry among the people : the other caufe was the long continuance of the Earl of Af^r's army here in 1 7 1 5, which occafioned vail fums of money being fpent in the place : but this town, as well as all Scotland., dates its profperity from the yean 745, the government of this part oi Great Britain having never been fettled till a little after that time. The rebellion was a diforder violent in its operation, but falutary in its effefts. The trade of Perth is confiderable : it exports Trad«, annually one hundred and fifty thoufand pounds v/orth of linnen, ten thoufand of wheat and barley, and 74 A T 0 U R and about the fame in cured raln:ion. ThatfiHi is taken there in vaft abundance; three thouTand have been caught in one morning, weighing, one with another, fjxteen pounds •, the whole capture, forty- eight thoufand pounds. The filhery begins at St. Andrew^ Day, and ends Augujt 26th, old ftylc. The rents of the nflieries amount to three thoufand pounds 'per annum. • I was informed that fmelts come up this river in May and Jun^, pearl. There has been in thefe parts a very great fifhery of pearl, got out of the frefli- water mufcles. From the year 1761 to 1764, 1 0,000 1. worth were fcnt to London^ and fold frora los. to il. 16 s. per ounce. I was told that a pearl has been taken there that weighed 33 grains; but this fifliery is at prefent exhaufted, from the avarice of the under- takers : it once extended as far as Lough-Tay. Gozvrie Floufe is fliewn to all ftrangers; formerly the property and refidencc of the Earl of Gowrie-, whofe tragical end and myfterious confpiracy (\i confpiracy there was) are (till frcfli in the minds of the people of Perth. At prefent the houfe is oc- G^xtir.-> con- cupied by fome companies .of artillery. I was piiacy. fiiewn the ftaircafe where the unhappy nobleman was killed, the window the frighted monarch James roared out of, and that he efcapcd through, when he was favcd from the fury of the populace, by Baily Rcy^ a friend oi Cowrie's^ who was extremely beloved in the town. From the little traditions preferved in the palace, it fcems as \i Cowrie had not the left intent of mur- thcring IN SCOTLAND. thcring the King : on the day his Majefty cirne to Perth, the Earl was engaged to a wedding-dinner with the Dean of Guild : when the account of the King's defign reached him he changed color, on being taken fo unprovided ; but the Dean forced him to accept the nuptial feaft, which was lent over to the Earl's houfe. When the King fled he pafTed by the feat of Sir William Moncrief, nczx Em bridge, who happening to "be walking out at that time, heard from the mouth of his terrified Majefly the whole relation ; but the Knight found it lb marvellous and fo dif- jointed, as plainly to tell the King, that if it was a iruejlory, it was a veryjlrange one. Gowrie was a mod accompliflied gentleman: af- ter he had finilhed his ftudies he held the Profeflbr of Philofophy's chair for two years, in one of the Italian univerfities. Crofs the Tay on a temporary bridge ; the ftone bridge, which is to confifl of nine arches, beino- at this time unfinifhed j the largeft arch is feventy-fix feet wide ; when complete it promifes to be a moll magnificent ftruflure. The river here is very vio- lent, and admits of fcarce any navigation above ; but {hips of eighty or ninety tuns come as far as the town. Scone lies about a mile and half higher up, on the Scom, eaft bank of the river. There was once here an abby of great antiquity *, which was burnt by the reforming zealots of Dundee. The prefent palace * Founded hy Alexander I. 1 114, for canons regular of St. Augujiine, was *1 >0 ^6 A T O U R was begun by Earl Cowrie •, but, on his death, being granted by James VI. to his favorite, Sir David Murray, of Gofpatrie, was completed by him i who, in gratitude to the king, has, in feveral parts of the houfe, put up the royal arms. The houfe is built round two courts ; the dining-room is large and handfome, has an antient but magnificent chimney-piece, the king's arms, with this motto. Nobis hac invi£!a miferunt centum fex Proavi. Beneath are the Murray arms. In the drawing- room is fome good old tapellry, with an excellent figure of Mercury, In a fmall bed-chamber is a medly fcripture piece in needle-work, with a border of animals, pretty well done ; the work of Maty iS/«^^r/, during her confinement in Locb-leven czWXe. : but the houfe in general is in a manner unfurnifhed. The gallery is about a hundred and fifty-five feet long; the top arched, divided into compartments, filled with paintings, in water colors, of different forts of huntings; and that Nimrod, James VI. and his train, appear in every piece. Till the dcftruflion of the abby, the kings of Scotland were crowned here, fitting in the famous wooden chair, which Edward I. tranfportcd to JVeJiminJler-Abhyy much to the mortification of the Scots, who efteemed it as their palladium. Charles II. before the battle of IVorceJier, was crowned in the prefent chapel. The old Pretender refided at Sco?n for a confiderable time in 17 15, and his foa made it a vifit in 1745. Re- palled the Tay at Bii'im's Boat ; vifited the field INSCOTLAND. 7f Held of Loncart)\ celebrated for the great viflory * l^^^^rtj, obtained by the Scots over the Danes, by means of the gallant peafant Hay and his two fons, who, with noother weapons than the yokes which they fnatched from their oxen then at plough, firft put a flop to the flight of their countrymen, and afterwards led them on to conqueft. The noble family of Hay are defcended from this ruftic hero, and in memory of the aftion, bear for their arms the inftrument of their victory, with the allufive motto of Subjugo, There are on the fpot feveral tumuli, in which are frequently found bones depofited in loofe ftones, difpofed in form of a coffin. Not remote is a fpot which fupplied me with far more agreeable ideas j a traft of ground, which in 1732 was a meer bog, but now converted into good mieadows, and about fifty acres covered with linnen ; feveral other parts with buildings, and all the apparatus of the linnen manufacture, extremelv curious and worth feeinof, carried on by the induftrious family of the Sandi- tnans, who annually make four hundred thoufand yards of linnen. The country is good, full of barley, oats, and flax in abundance i but afcer a few miles travcllincr is fucceeded by a black heath : ride through a beau- tiful plantation of pines, and after defcending an eafy flope the plain beneath fuddenly contrafts it- felf into a narrow glen : the profpedt before me ftrongly marked the entrance into the Highlands^ the hills that bounded it on each fide being lofty and rude. On the left was Birna-m Wood, which Biman * Jn the time of Kennttli, who began his reign In 976. Wood, feems yt -t:i^^ . A TOUR feems never to have recovered the march its an*] Vunfmam, ceftors made- to Bunfmane : 1 was fliewn at a great^ diftance a high ridge of hills, where Ibmc remains of that famous fortreis {Macbeth^ caftle) are faid| yet to cxifl. The pafs into the Highlands is awefully magnifi-'' cent ; high, craggy, and often naked mountains prefenr thcmfelvcs to view, approach very near rach other, and in many parts are fringed with v/ood, overhanging and darkening the Tay, that rolls with great rapidity beneath. After fome ad- vance in this hollov/, a moft beautiful knowl, co- vered v/ith pines, appears full in view ; and foon DunkeU. after, the town of Diinkeld, feated under and en- vironed by crags, partly naked, partly wooded, with fummits of a vaft height. Lay at hver, a good inn, on the weft fide of the river. July 28. Crofted it in a boat, attended by a tame fwan, which was perpetually folliciting our favors by put- ting its neck over the fides of the ferry-boat. Land in the Duke of Jthol's gardens, which are extremely pleafing, waflied by the river, and commanding from different parts of the walks the moft beautiful and pifturefque views of wild and gloomy nature that can be conceived. Trees of all kinds grow here extremely well i and even fo fouthern a (hrub as Portugal laurel flourilhes greatly. In the gardens are the ruins of the cathedral, once a magnificent aedifice, as appears by the beautiful "round pillars ftill ftanding; but the choir is preferved, and at prefent ufed as a church. In the burial-place of the family is a large monument of the Marquis o{ fd A T O U R furnifhcd •, but the owners civil, fcnfible, and of che quickeft apprehenfions. The ftrait now widens into a vale plentiful in oats, barley and flax, and well peopled : on the right is the junftion of the I'ay and the Tumcl : the channels of thefe rivers are wide, full of gravel, the mark of their devaftation during floods. Due north is the road to Blair and Fcrt Jugufius, through the noted pafs of Kiliicrajtkie ; turn to the left J ride oppofite to Cajlle Menzies : reach Tay- mouth, the feat of the Earl of Breadalbane. JuLY29,&c. 'Taymouth * lies in a vale fcarce a mile broad, Tajmouth^ Very fertile, bounded on each fide by high moun- tains finely planted. Thofe on the fouth are co- vered with trees, or with corn fields, far up their fides. The hills on the north are planted with pines and other trees, and vaftly fticp, and have a very alpine look -, but particularly refemble the great flope oppofite tiie grande Chartreufe in Dau- phi7ii. His Lordlhip's policy -j- furrounds the houfe, which ftands in the park, and is one of the few in which fallow deer are feen. The ground is in remarkable fine order, owing to his Lordlliip's affiduity in clearing it from ftones, with which it was once covered. A Blajler was in conftant employ to blall the great ftones with gun- powder ; for, by reafon of their fize, there was no other method of removing them, walkfi. "Yhc Bet'ceaH walk is very magnificent, compofed * Its name, ia old maps, h Balloch ; i. c. the mouth of the loch. f This word here fignifies improvementJ, or demefne : when ufed by a merchant, or tradefman, fignifies their ware- hom'cs, ftjop:;, and the like, •f I N S C O T L A N D. Bi of great trees, forming a fine gothic arch -, and pro- bably that fpecies of architecture owed its origin to fuch vaulted fhades. The walk on the bank of the Tay is fifty feet wide, and two and twenty hundred yards long ; but is to be continued as far as the junction of the 'Tay and the IJon^ which is about as far more. The firft runs on the fides of the walk with great rapidity, is clear, but not color* lefs, for its peliucidnefs is like that of brown cryftal; as is the cafe with moft of the rivers of Scotland^ which receive their tinge from the bogs. The Tay has here a wooden bridge two hundred feet long, leading to a white feat on the fide of the oppofite hill, commanding a fine view up and dov/n Straith Tay. The rich meadows beneath, the wind- ing of the river, the beginning of Lough-Tay, the difcharge of the river out of it, the neat village and church 01 Kenmor, form a moll: pleafmg and mag- nificent profpedft. The view from the temple of Fenus is that of the Lough-Taj. lake, with a nearer fight of the church and village, and the difcharge of the river. The lake is about a mile broad, and about fifteen long, bounded on each fide by lofty mountains ; makes three great bends, which adds to its beauty. Thole on the fouth are well planted, and finely cultivated high up ; interfperfed with the habitations of the Highlanders^ not fingly, but in fmall groupes, as if they loved fociety or clanihip : they are very Imall, mean, and without windows or chimnics, and are the difgracc of North Britahu as its lakes and rivers are its' glory. Lough-Tay is, in many places, a hundred G fathoms ti A T O U R fathoms deep, and within as many yards of the (hore, fifty-four. Till the prefent year, this lake was fuppofed to be as incapable of freezing as Lough- Nefs, Lough- Earn, and Lough-Each ; tho' Lough- Ray nac^ and even Lough-Fine, an arm of the fca, often does. But in March 1771, fo rigorous and uncommon was the cold, that about the 20th of that month this vaft body of water was frozen over, in one part, from fide to fide, in the fpace of a fingle night ; and fo ftrong was the ice, as greatly to damage a boat which was caught in it. Lough-Tay abounds with Pike, Perch, Eels, Sal- mon and Trout -, of the lafl:, fome have been taken that weighed above thirty pounds. Of thefe fpe- cics, the Highlanders abhor Eels, and alio Lam- pries, fancying, from the form, that they are too nearly related to Serpents *. The north fide is lefs wooded, but more culti- vated. The vail hill of Laursy with beds of fnow on it, through great part of the year, rifes above the reft, and the flill loftier mountain of Benmor clofes the view far beyond the end of the lake. All this country abounds with game, fuch as Grous, Ptarmigans -f-, Stags, and a peculiar fpecies of White Hare. Hare, which is found only on the fummits of the higheft hills, and never mixes with the common kind, which is frequent enough in the vales J. • I was informed, that at the head of the lake are the re- mains of an old caftlc, called Finlarif^, belonging to Lord Breadalhane, and of a park finely wooded with old oaks, chefnuts, and other timber. f Br. 7ct^. illujir. 21. tab. xiii, \ The fame, />. 4c. tab. xlvii. 2 This I N S C O T L A N D. %^ This fpecies is grey in fummer, white in winter ; is fmaller than the brown Hare, and more delicate meat. The Ptarmigans inhabit the very fummits of the Ptamigans, higheft mountains, amidfl the rocks, perching among the grey ftones, and during fummer are fcarce to be diftinguilhed from them, by reafon of their color. They feldom take long flights, but fly about like pigeons ; are filly birds, and fo tame as to fufFer a Hone to be flung at them without rifing. It is not necefl!ary to have a dog to find them. They tafte fo like a Grous, as to be fcarce diftinguilhable. During winter, their plumage, ex- cept a few feathers in the tail, are of a pure white, the color of the fnow, in which they bury them- felves in heaps, as a protedion from the rigorous air. ^ Royfton Crows, called here Hooded Crows, and Birds* in the Erfe^ Feanagh, are very common, and refide here the whole year. They breed in the hills, in all forts of trees j lay fix eggs ; have a fhriller note than the common fort j are much m.ore mifchievous; pick out the eyes of lambs, and even of horfes, when engaged in bogs ; but, for want of other food, will eat cranberries, and other mountain berries. Ring Ouzels breed among the hills, and in au- tumn defcend in flocks to feed on the berries of the wicken trees. Sea Eagles breed in ruined towers, but quit the country in winter j the black Eagles continue there the whole year. G 2 U 84 A T O U R It is very difiiculc to leave the environs of this delightful place : before I go within doors, I niuft recall to mind the fine winding walks on the fouth fide of the hills, the great beech fixteen feet in girth, the pidiirefque birch with its long ftreani- ing branches, the hermitage, the great cataradls adjacent, and the darkfome chafm beneath. I muft enjoy over again the view of the fine reach of the T>v, and its union with the broad water of the Lion: 1 muft ftep down to view the druidical circles of ftunes, cjUed in the Erfe, 'Tibherd; and hilly, I Tly hidge. muft vifit '^'cy- bridge^ and, as far as my pen can contribute, extend the fame of our military coun- trymen, who, among other works worthy of the Romans^ founded this bridge, and left its hiftory infcribed in thefe terms : Mirare viam hanc miljtarem Ultra Romanos terininos M. Pafilium. ccL hac iliac extenfam -, Tefquis ct paludibus infultantem per Montes rupefque patefadam et indignanri Tavo ut cernis inicratam. Opus hoc arduLuii fua folertii, Et decennali militum opera, A. Mr. X"* 1733. Pofuit G. Wade Copiarum in Scotia Prxfot^us. Euce quantum valeant Regis Georgii II. Aufpicia. 'J'aymouth "WMl IN SCOTLAND. ^aymoitth is a large houfe, a caftle modernized. The moll remarkable part of its furniture is the works of the famous Jamefon *, the Scotch Vandyh^ Jamefcn. an eleve of this family. That fingular performance of his, the genealogical pidure, is in good pre- fervation. Sir Dunfau Campbell, Laird of Lochlou^ is placed recumbent at the foot of a trtc, wirh a branch ; on the right is a fmgle head of his eldefl: fon, the chief of the Argyk family j but on the various ramifications, are the names of his defcen- dents, and along the body of the tree are nine fmall heads, in oval frames, with the names on the margins, all done with great neatnefs : the fecnnd fon was fit ft of the houfe of Breadalbane, vv'^ich branched from the other about four hundred years ago. In a corner is infcribed, The Geneologie of the houfe of Glenorquhie ^hairof is defcendit fundris nohil i3 worthie houfes. ]zme(on fa ciebat. 1635. Its fize is eight feet by five. In the fame room are about twenty heads of perfons of the family ; among others, that of a lady, fo very ugly, that a wag, on feeing it, with lifted hands pronounced, that fhe v/zs fearfully and 'U}onde}fully made. There are in the fame houfe feveral heads by Jamrfon ; but many of them unfortunately fpoiled in the mending. In the library is a fmail book, called, from the binding, the black bock, with fome beautiful draw- ings in it, on vellum, oi iht Breadalbane family, in * Sen of an architeft at Aberdeen ; ftudied under RuheiHy at Ant'iverp. Charles I. fat to him, and prefented him with a diamond ring. He always drew himfelf with his h;;t on. His prices were 20I. Scots, or il. 13s. 4d. Englijh, per head ; was born in 1586 ; died at Edinburgh, 1644. Por a further account, confult Mr. Wulpole^% Anecdotes of Painting. G 3 water- tS A T O U R water-colors. In the firft page is old Sir Duncan^ between two other figures •, then follow Teveral chiefs of the family, among whom is Sir Coli», Knight of Rhodes, who died 1480, aged 80. At the end is a manufcript hiftory of the family, end- ing, I think, in 1633. JuLV 50, Went to divine fervice at Kinmore * church, which, with the viljage, was re-built, in the neateft manner, by the prefent Lord Breadalbane : they fland beautifully on a fmall headland, projefling into the lake. His Lordfhip permits the inhabi- tants to live rent-free, on condition they exercifc fome trade, and keep their houfes clean : fo that, by thef^ terms, he not only faves the expence of fending^ on every trifling occafion, to Perth or Crief, but has got fome as good workmen, in com- mon trades, as any in his Majefty's dominions. The church is a remarkably neat plain building, with a very handfome tower fteeple : the congre- N gation wa^ numerous, decent, attentive, flill ; well and neatly clad, and not a ragged or flovenly perfon among them. There were two fervices, one in EfJgUfi-, the other in Erfe. After the firft, numbers of people, of both fcxes, went out of church, and feating themfclves in the church-yard, made, in their motly habits, a gay and piflurefque Highlandcon. appearance. The devotion of the common people grc^ation. q^- ^cctlandy on the ufual days of worfhip, is fis much to be admired, as their condud at the fa- cralicnt in certain places is to be cenfured. It • Or the Great Head. is I N S C O T L A N D. 87 is celebrated but once In a year * 5 when there are fometimt-s three thoufand communicants, and as many idle fpeflators. Of the firib, as many as poflible crowd each fide of a long table, and the elements are rudely ihoven from one to another ; and in fome places, before the day is at an end, fighting and other indecencies enfue. It is often made a feafon for debauchery j fo, to this day. Jack cannot be perfuaded to eat his meat like a chriftian -f . Every Sunday a colle<5lion is made for the fick or necelTitous j for poor's rates are unknown in every country parifh in Scotlafid. Notwithftanding the common people are but juft rouzed from their na- tive indolence, very few beggars are feen in North Britain : either they are full mafters of the leflbn of being content with a very little •, or, what is more probable, they are poflefTcd of a fpirit that will ftruggle hard with neceflity before it will bend to the afking of alms. Vifited a pretty little ifland in Loch-^ay tufted with trees, and not far from the fhore : on it are the ruins of a priory dependent on that at Scone \ found- ed in 1 122, by Alexander the Firft, in which were depofited the remains of his Queen Syhilla-, natural daughter to Henry I. it was founded by Alexander in order for the prayers of the Monks for the re- pofe of his foul, and that of his royal confort J. • Formerly the facrament was adminiflered but once in two years. + Tale of a Tub. X As appears from a grant made by that Monarch of the ifle in Loch-Tay, Ut Ecclejta Dei ibi pro me et [ro /fnima ^YBILL^ Regin^ ibi defunct a fabricetur^ &C. G 4 ' To ^S A T O U R To this ifland the Campbells retreated, during the fucceiffs of the Marquifs of Montrofe^ where they defended themftlves againft that hero, which was 'one caule oi his violent refentment againft the vi-hoie name. July 3J. Roue to Glen-lion ; went by the fide of the river* that ^ivcs name to it. It has now loft its antient title of DuiCy or Blacky given it on account of a great battle between the Mackays and the Mac- grcgGYs \ atter which, the conquerors are faid to have ftaincd the water with red, by wafliing in it their bloody fwords and fpears. On the right is a rocky hill, called Shi-hallen, or the Paps. Enter Ckn-lion through a ftrnit pafs : the vale is narrow, but fertile ; the banks of the river fteep, rocky, and wooded ; through which appear the rapid water of the JJon. On the north is a round fortrefs, on the top of the hill ; to which, in eld times, the natives retreated, on any invafion. A little farther, on a plain, is a fmall Roman campf, called by the High- landers Fortingal^ or the Fort of the Strangers : themfelves they ftyle Na-fian, or defcendents of FingaL In Fortingal church are tlie remains of a Great yew. prodigious yew-tree, whofe ruins meafyred fifty-fix feet and a half in circumference. Saw at the houfe of Col. Camphell of Glen-lion, a curious walking-ftaff, belonging to one of his anceftois : it was iron cafed in leather, five feet • Tills river freezes ; but the Tay, which receives it, never does. t It poflibly might have been made during the expedition of Scverus, who peneirattd to the extremity of this ifland : it was the moil northern work of the Rcmnns I had any intel- ii^tncc of. Ions; 5 I N S C O T L A N D. ^Si long ; at the top a neat pair of extended wings, like a caduceus-, but, on being fhook, a poniard, two feet nine inches long, darted out. He alfo favored me with the fight of a very antient brotche, which the Highlanders ufe, like x\\Q fibula of the Remans-, to faften their vefl : it is madeof filver, is round, v^ith a bar crofs the mid- dle, from whence are two tongues to faften the folds of the garments : one fide is ftudded with pearl, or coarfe gems, in a very rude manner; on the other, the names of the three kings of Cologne^ Caspar, Melchior, Baltazar •, with the word conftmfnatim. It was probably a confecrated brotche, and worn not only for ufe, but as an amulet. Return fouth, and come at once in fight of Loch-Tay. The day being very fine and calm, the whole fcenev/as moft beautifully repeated in the water. I muft not omit that on the north fide of - this lake is a moft excellent road, which runs the whole length of it, leading to I'eindrum and Inve- raray, in Argyleflnre, and is the route which tra- vellers muft take, who make what I call the pel:: tour * of Scotland. This whole road was made at the fole expence of the prefent Lord Breadalbam; who, to facilitate the travelling, alfo ereded thirty-two ftone-bridges over the torrents that rulh from the * Which comprehends the route I have defcribed ; adding to it, from Ta^mouth, along the road, on the fide of the lake, to Killin, I 6 miles; from thence to Teindrum, 20 j Gienorchie, 12 ; Innjeraray, 16 ; Luis, on the banks of Loch-lomond, 30; Dunharton, 1 2 ; Gla/goiv, 1 5 ; Sterling, 3 1 ; Edlnkurgh, by Hopetoun-Hoafe, 35; a traft unparalleled, for the variety, and frequency of fine and magnificent fcenery. mountains A T O U R mountains into the lake. They will find the whole Roads, country excell in roads, partly military, partly done by ftatute labor, and much by the munificence of the great men. I was informed, that Lord Breadalbane^^ eftate was fo extenfive that he could ride a hundred miles an end on it, even as far as the Well Sea, where he has alfo fome iflands. Thefe great properties are divided into diftri6ls, C2\\td Officiaries : a ground officer preiides over each, and has three, four, or five hundred men under his care : he fuperintends the duties due from each to their Lord, fuch as fetching peat, bringing coal from Perlh, &c. which they do, at their own expence, on horfes backs, travelling in firings, the tail of one horfe being fafiened by a cord, which reaches to the head of the next : the horfes are little, and generally white or grey ; and as the farms are very fmall, it is com- mon for four people to keep a plough between them, each furnifhing a horfe, and this is called a horfc gang. The north fide of Loch-Tny is very populous; for in fixteen fquare miles are feyenteen- hundred and eighty-fix fouls: on the other fide, about twelve hundred. The country, within thefe thirty years, is grown very induftrious, and manufactures a great deal of thread. They fpin with rocks *, which they do while they attend their cattle on the hills ; and, at the three or four fairs in the year, held at ^aymciith^ about fixteen hundred pounds worth of yarn is fold out of Breadalbane only. • Their Lord gives among them annually a great noniber of fpinning- wheels. Much I INSCOTLAND. ^ Much of this may be owing to the good fertCc and humanity of the chieftain ; but much again is owing to the abolition of the feudal tenures, or vaiTalage ; for before that was effircled (which was done by the influence of a Chancellor *, whofe memory Scotland gratefully adores for that fervice) the Strong opprefTed the Weak, the Rich the Poor. Courts indeed were held, and juries called ; but juries of vafTals, too dependent and too timid to be relied on for the execution of true jullice. Leave Taymouth-^ ford the Lien, and ride above Aug. i, it thro' fome woods : on the left burfts out a fine cafcade, in a deep hollow, covered with trees : at a fmall diftance to the weft is Cajile-Gartby a fmaii caftle feated like caftle Campbell^ between two deep glens : keep afcending a fteep hill, but the corn country continues for a while : the fcene then changes for a wild, black, and mountainous heath : defcend into Rayndcb, a meadowy plain, tolerably Rayiach^ fertile : the lake of the fame name extends from Eaft to Wefti is about eleven miles long, and one broad: the Northern banks appeared very barren; part of the Southern finely covered with a foreft of pine and birch, the firft natural woods I had leen of Pine Forcit. pines : rode a good way into it, but obferved no trees of any fize, except a birch fixteen feet in cir- cumference : the ground beneath the trees is co- vered with heath, biiberies, and dwarf arbutus, •whofe glofiy leaves make a pretty appearance : this place gives fhelter to black game, and is at prefent * Earl of HardTvick, who may br truly faid to have given to the North Britons their great charier of liberty. the 92 A TOUR tlie farthefl Southern rclort of roes, for very f^w ever ftraggle lower down : near thefe woods is a faw- mill, which brings in about i Sol. per amj. the deal, which is the red fort, is fold in plank to difTerent parts of the country, carried on horfes backs, for the trees are now grown fo Icarce as not to admit of exportation *. The lake affords no other fidi than trouts, and bull trouts ; the laft, as I was informed, are fome- times taken of the length of four feet and a half: many water fowl breed in the birns or little dreams that trickle into the lake •, among others different fort of grebes, and divers : I was told of one which the inhabitants call T'uruvacbal, that makes a great noife before ftorms, and by their defcription feems to be the Finder of Gcfnsr. The Poet This country was once the property o^ Robert [on ^ Strusn. q£ siyif^^^ y/YiQ J5ad been in the rebellion of 17 15 ; had his eftate relfored, but in 1745 rebelling a fe- cond time, the country was burnt, and the eflate annexed to the crown : he returned a few years af- ter, and died as he lived, a moft abandoned fot ; notwithflanding which he had a genius for poetry, and left behind him a volume of elegies, and other pieces, in fome of^which he elegantly laments the ravages of war among his vafials, and the lofs of his favorite fcenes, and in particular his foun- tain Argentine. The country is perfetStly highland; and in fpitc of the intercourfe this and the neighboring parts hav^ of late years had with the rcil of the world, it Hill • Some Pot-A(h is alio made of the Birch Wood. retains I N S C O T L A N D. 93 retains fome of its antient cuftoms and fiiperfl:!- SupcrlliuoBS. tions ; they decline dail)', but lead their memory flioiild be loil, I fliall mention feveral that are (till praftifed, or but very lately difufed in the trad I had pafled over. Such a record will have this advantage when the follies are quite extinft, in teaching the unfhackled and enlightened mind the difference between the pure ceremonies of religion, and the wild and anile flights of fuperflition. The belief in fpeftres Hill exills ; of which I Spe£lrcs, had a remarkable proof while I was in the county of Breadalbane : a poor yifionary, who had been working in his cabbage-garden, imagined that he t was railed fuddenly-into the air, and conveyed over a wall into an adjacent corn-field * ; that he found himfelf furrounded by a crowd of men and women, many of whom he knew to have been dead fome years, and who appeared to him fkimmlng over the tops of the unbended corn, and mingling together like bees going to hive : that they fpoke an unknown language and vv'ith r. hollow found : that they very roughly puflied him to and fro ; but on his utter- ing the name of God, all vanifhed but a female fprite, who feizing him by the fhoulder, obliged himtopromifean affignation,atthat very hour, than day fevenight: that he then found that his hair was all tied in double knots, and that he had almoft loft the ufe of his fpeech : that he kept his word with • Thefe tales of fpe(flral tranfportation are far from being new ; Mr. Aubrey in his mifcellanies, p. 13. gives two ridi- culous relations of almoft fimiiar fafts, one in Dciionjhire, the Other in the fhire of Mnrrnv, 4 t^e 94 A T O U R the fpetflrc, whom he foon faw come floating thro' the air towards him : that he fpoke to her, but fiie told him at that time fhe was in too much haftc to attend to him, but bid him go away, and no harm fliould befall him i and fo the affair refted when I left the country. But it is incredible the m'lkh'ief thck^'Egri Somnir. did in the neighborhood: the friends and relation of the deceafed, whom the eld Dreamer had named, were in the utmoft anxiety at finding them in fuch bad company in the other world : the almoll extind belief of the old idle tales began again to gain ground, and the good minifter will have many a weary difcourfe and ex- liortation before he can eradicate the abfurd ideas this idle ilory has revived. In this part of the country the notion of witch- craft is quite loft : it was obfervcd to ceafe almoft immediately on the repeal of the witch adt * ; a proof what a dangerous inftrument it was in the hands of the vindidive, or of the credulous. Unluckyday. Among the fuperftitious cuftoms thefe are the moll fingular. A Highlander never begins any thing of confequence on the day of the week on which the 3d of Mtiy falls, which he ftylcs Lagb Sheachanna Jia hUanagh, or the dilmal day. Bel-teln. On the I ft of May, the herdfmen of every vil- lage hold their Bel-tein t, a rural facrifice : they cut a fquarc trench on the ground, leaving the turf in the middle -, on that they make a fire of wood, on • which was not till the year 1736. f My account of this, and every other ceremony mentioned in this Journal, was communicated to me by gentlemen refx- deut on the fpot where they were performed. which INSCOTLAND. ^ which they drefs a large caudle of eggs, butter, oatmeal and milk •, and bring, befides the ingre- dients of the caudle, plenty of beer and whifky ; for each of the company muft contribute fomething. The rites begin with fpilling fome of the caudle on the ground, by way of libation : on that, every one takes a cake of oatmeal, upon which are raifed ninefquare knobs, each dedicated to fpme partiqular being, the fuppofed preferver of their flocks and herds, or to fome particular animal, the real de- ftroyer of them : each perfon then turns his face to the fire, breaks off a knob, and flinging it over his fhoulders, fays. This I give to ibee, pre/erve thou my horfes •, this to thee, preferve thou my Jheep ; and fo on. After that, they ufe the fame ceremony to the noxious animals : This I give to thee, O Fox ! fpare thou my lambs j this to thee, 0 hooded Cro'W ! this to thee, 0 Eagle ! When the ceremony is over they dine on the caudle •, and after the feaft is finilhcd, what is left is hid by two perfons deputed for that purpofc ', but on the next Sunday they re-aflTemble, and flnifh the reliques of the firft entertainment *. On * A cuftom, favoring of the Scouh Bel-fein, prevales in Ghuctjierjhire, particularly about JV^fw^w/ and the neighboring parifhes, on the twelfth day, or on tVt Epiphany, in the even- ing : all the fervants of every particular farmer afTemble to- gether in one of tne relds that has been fown with wheat ; on the border of which, in the moll confpicuous or moft elevated place, they make twelve fires of ftraw, in a row ; around one of which, made larger tnan the reft, they drink a chearful glafs of cyder to their mafter's health, fuccefs to the future harvelt, and tlen returniTig home they feaft on cakes, made of carraways, &c. fcaked in cyder, which they clame as a re-- ward for their pad labars ir. fowing the grain. Thii feems to rcfeaible 96 A T O U R Funeral Oil the death of a Highlander, the corps being flretched on a board, and covered with a coarlc linncn wrapper, the friends lay on the bread of the deceafed a wooden platter, containing a fmall quan- tity of fait and earth, feparate and unmixed ; the earth, an emblem of the corruptible body ; the fait, an emblem of the immortal fpirit. All Hre is ex- tinguiflied where a corps is kept; and it is reckoned fo ominous, for a dog or cat to pafs over it, that the poor animal is killed without mercy. late-wake. The Late-'wake is a ceremony ufed at funerals: the evening after the death of any perfon, the rela- tions and friends of the deceafed meet at the houfe, attended by bagpipe or fiddle ; the nearefl; of kin, be it wife, fon, or daughter, opens a melancholy ball, dancing and greeting ; /. e. crying violently at the fame time •, and this continues till day-light ; but with fuch gambols and frolicks, among the younger part of the company, that the lofs which occafioned them is often more than fupplied by the confequences of that night *. If the corps remains unburied for two nights the fame rites are renewed. Thus'y Scytbian-Yikey they rejoice at the deliverance of their friends out of this life of mifery. Coranich. The Coranichy or fmging at funerals, is flill in rofcmble a cuflom of the ssii'icnt Danes, wlio, in their addrcfTes to tlieir rural dc-itics, emptied, oti every invocation, a cup ia honor of them. Niordi et Frej/E memoria poculis rexolehatury annua ut ipjis contingent f elicit as, frugumque et reliqucc annonec uberrimus prouentus. Worm. Monum, Dan, lib. i. p. 28. * This cuftom was derived from their jiorthern ancellors, Longe fecurius tncritndum cjje arbitrantuVy quam I'iijcnduin : puerperia luiiu^ fanernque yj/i'vo canfu, ut in plurimutn come- hbrantcs. Olaus Magnus. 116. ufc I N S C O T L A N D. ^; ufc in fome places : the fongs are generally in praife of the deceafed -, or a recital of the valiant deeds of him, or anceftors. I had not the fortune to be prefent at any in 'North Britairiy but formerly af- fifted at one in the: fouth oi Tr elands where it was performed in the fullnefs of horror. The cries are called by the Iriflj the ''Ulogohne and Hullulu, two words extremely expreffive of the found uttered on thefe occafions, and being oi Celt it tlock, Etymo- logifts would fwear to be the origin of the Q?<Q/jjyccv of the Greeks, and Vlulatus of the Latins. Virgil is very fond of ufing the lafl:, whenever any of his females are diftrelTed ; as are others of the Roman Poets, and generally on occafions fimilar to this. It was my fortiine to arrive at a certain town ia Kerry i at the time that a perfoh of ibme drftindion departed this life : my curiofiry led me to the houfe,' ^'here the funeral feemed conduced in the purelt clafTical form. ^odcunque afpicerem lu5ius gemitufq^ue fonahant^ Formcque non taciti funeris intiis erat. In fliort, the ccnclamatio was fet up by the friends in the fame manner as Virgil dcfcribes that confe- quential of Dido's death. Laraentis gemituque et f^emineo ululatu Te^la fremunt. Immediately after this followed another ceremony, fully defcribed by Cambdcn^ in his account of the manners of the ancient Irijlo ; the earneft expoftu- lations and reproaches given to the deceafed, for quitting this world, where fhe enjoyed fo many blelTings, fo good a hufband, fuch fine children. H This 9$ A T O U R This cuftom is alfo of great antiquity, for Eurya- ius's mother makes the fame pathetic addrcfs t© her dead fon. Tune ilia feneS^ Sera mca: rcquies ? potuijii relinquere folam Crudelis ? But when the time approached for carrying out the corps the cry was redoubled. Tremuiis ululatibus athera complent. A numerous band of females waiting in the outer court, to attend the herfe, and to pay (in chorus) the laft tribute of their voices. The habit of this forrowing train, and the negle6t of their perfons, were admirably fuited to the occafion : their robes were black, and flowing, refembling the antient Valla j their feet naked, their hair long, and diihe- veled : I might truely fay, Vidi egomet nigra fuccinEiam vadere palla "" Canidiam ; pcdibus nudis, pajjcque capillo Cum Sagana majore ululantem. Among thefe mourners were difperfed the females, who fung the praifes of the deceafed, and were in the place of the Mulieres Pr^fica of the Romans, and, like them, were a mercenary tribe. I could not but obferve that they over-did their parts, as Horace acquaints us the mourners of his days did. Vt qui conduct pi or an i in funera, diaint El faciunt prope plura dolentibus ex animo. The corps was carried (lowly along the verge of a mod beautifull lake, the iilulatus was continued, and the whole proccfTion ended among the vene- rable INSCOTLAND. 99 r^ble ruins of an old abby. But to return to Norib Britain. Midwives give new-born babes a fmall fpoonfull of earth and whifky, as the firfl: food they tafte. Before women bake their bannocks, or oatmeal cakes, they make a crofs on the laft. The notion of fecond-fight ftill prevales in a few Fairies^ places : as does the belief of Fairies ; and children are watched till the chriftening is over, lead they fliould be ftole, or changed. Elf-Jhots^ i. e. the ftone arrow heads of the old inhabitants of this ifland, are fuppofed to be wea- pons (hot by Fairies at cattle, to which are attri- buted any diforders they have : in order to effe6t a cure, the cow is to be touched by an elf-fliot, or made to drink the water in which one has been' dipped. The fame virtufc is faid to be found in the cryflal gems *, and in the adder-ftone, our Glein Naidr \ and it is alfo believed that good fortune muft attend the owner ; fo, for that reafon, the firfi: is called Clach Bhotiaigh^ or the happy ftone. Cap- tain Jrchibald Campbell fhewed me one, a fpheroid fet in filver, which people came for the ufe cf above a hundred miles, and brought the water it was to be dipt in with them ; for without that, in human cafes, it was believed to have no effeft. Thefe have been fuppofed to be magical ftones or gems ufed by the Druidsy to be infpedled by a chafte boy, who was to fee in them an apparition in- forming him of future events. This impofture, as • Woodvjard's Method of Follils, p. 30. See alfo Air. ^u^ ^/■^'s Mifcellanies, p. 128. H 2 wc loo A T O U R we are told by Dodor JVood-wardy was revived in the lad century by the famous Do<5tor Dee, who called it h'\speiv ftone and holy Ji one, and pretend- ed, by its means, to foretell events. I find in Mak- fvucon *, that it was cuftomary in early times to depofite Balls of this kind in urns or fepulchers : thus twenty were found at Rome in an alabaflrine urn : and one was difcovered in 1653, ^"^ ^^*^ tomb of Childcric at Tournai j he was King of France, and died A. D. 480. Aug. 2. i^cfc Carrie, the houfe of Mr. Campbell, fador for the Struan eftate, where I had a very hofpitable reception the preceding night. Went due eaft •, pafled over a bridge crofs the 'TumeU which dil- chnrges itfelf out of Lough Raynach. Not far off were fome neat fniall houfes, inhabited by veteran foldiers, who were fettled here after the peace of 1 748 •, had land, and three pounds in money given, and nine pounds lent, to begin the world with. In ibme few places this plan fucceeded ; but in gene- j al, was frullrated by the diflipation of thefe new colonitls, vvlio could by no means relifh an in- duftrious life •, but as foon as the money was fpent, which fcldcm lafted long, left their tenements to be poflcfTcd by the next comer. Saw a flarnping-mill, calculated to reduce lime- ftone to a fine powder, in order to favc the expence of burning, for manure. The ftampers beat it into fmall pieces in a trough, which a (beam of water paflTcd through, carrying off the fine parts into a proper receptacle, the grofs ones being ftopped by * La Motiimens de la Monarchic Fran.oi'e, a grate. I I N S C O T L A N D. loi a grate. I did not find that this projefl anfwered -, but was told, that the benefit tlie land was to re- ceive from it would not appear till the third year. On going up a fteep hill have a fine view of the lake. Where the mountains almoil clofe, is Mount Alexander, where Stru:in once refided, and which he called his hermitage : it is a mofb romantic fitua- ~" tion, prettily wooded, impending over a fine bafon, formed by the Tw/nel, in a deep hollow beneath. At the bottom of this hill is Argentine, a little foun- Argentine, tain ; to which he gave that name from the filvery micie it flings up : near this are feveral rude but beautifull walks amidft the rocks and trees, among which, in clefts and chafms, I was fliewn the hard bed of the poor poet, when his difioyaky had made it penal for him to fhew his head. Near this the rocks almofl meet, and the river rufhes with vaft violence between. Some outlawed A/'Grc-'^crj were once furprized on the precipice, and all killed ; one, who made a defperate leap upon a ftone in the middle of the water, and another to the oppofite fide, had the hard fate to be fhot in climbing the rocky fleeps. A mile lower are the falls of the "Tumel : 1 have feen higher ; but, except that of the Rhine, never faw one with more water. Afcend a very fteep and high hill through a great birch wood -, a moft pifturefque fcene, from the pendent form of the boughs waving with the wind from the bottom to the utmoft fummits of the mountain. On attaining the top, had a view of a jjeautifull little 5/rj/V/?',. fertile and prettily wooded, H 3 with 102 A T O U R with the river in the middle, forming numbers of quick meanders; then iuddenly fwelling into a lake, that fills the vale from fide to fide ; is about three miles long, and retains the name of the river. After riding along a black moor, in fight of vaft moun- tains, arrive at Blair *, or /f/>6o/-Houfe, feated on an eminence above a plain, watered by the Carrie, an outrageous ftream, whofe ravages have greatly deformed the vally, by the vaft beds of gravel which it has left behind. The houfe was once fortified, and held a fiege againft the Rebels in 1 746 j but at prefent it is much reduced in height, and the infide highly, finifhed by the noble owner. The mod fingular piece of furniture is a cheft of drawers made of broom, moft elegantly flriped in veins of white and t broom brown. This plant grows to a great fize in Scot- ' land, and furnifhes pieces of the breadth of fix inches. Near the houfe is a fine walk furrounding a very deep glen finely wooded, but deficient in water at the bottom •, but on the fide of the walk pn the rock is a fmall cryftalline fountain, inhabited at that time by a pair of Naiads, in form of golden Hang'-n^ft. fifh. In a fpruce fir was a hang-neft of fome un- known bird, fufpended at the four corners to the boughs •, it was open at top, an inch and a half in diameter, and two deep •, the fides and bottom thick, the materials mofs, worfi:ed, and birch bark, lined with hair and feathers. The dreams afford Parr^ the Parr, a fmall fpccie^ of Trout, feldom excecd- ♦ Or the plain where a baitle had been fought. ing trCwi IN SCOTLAND. lO: ing eight inches in Ictigth, marked on the fides with nine large bluifli fpots, and on the lateral line with fmall red ones *. This country is very mountainous, has no natural woods except of birch ; but the vaft plantations that begin to cloath the hills will amply fupply thefe defefts. There is a great quantity of oats raifed in this neighborhood, and numbers of black cattle reared, the refources of the exhaufted parts of South Britain. Vifit the pafs of Killicrankie, about five miles KHHcran^ie, fouth of Blair : near the northern entrance was fought the battle between the Vifcount Dundee and General Mackay, in which the firft was killed in the moment of victory. The pafs is extremely narrow, between high mountains, with the Carrie running beneath in. a deep, darkfome, and rocky channel, over-hung with trees, forming a fcene of horrible grandeur. The road through this ftrait is very fincj formed by the foldiery lent by the Government, who have rixpence/»<?r day from the country befides their pay. About a mile beyond the pafs, Mr. Jlol?ertfon*Sy ofFa/^ally, appears like fairy ground amidll thefe wild rocks, feated in a moft beautiful! meadow, watered by the river Tumel, furrounded with pretty hills finely wooded. The Duke of Athors, eftate is very extenfive, and the country populous : while valTalage exifted, the chieftain could raife two or three thoufand fighting men, and leave fuificient at home to take care of the ground. The forefts, or rather chafes, (for • Br. Zoo!, illujlr. H 4 they 104 A T O U R they are quite naked) are very extenfiye, an4 feed yaft numbers of Stags, which range> at certain times of the year, in herds of five hundred. Some grow to a great fize : I have heard of one that weighed iS ftone, Scots^ or 3141b. exclufive of head, entrails and fkin. The hunting of thcfe animals v/as formerly after the manner of ^nEaJIern •Great hunt- monarch. Thoufands of vaflals furrounded a great ?"^'; trafl of country, and drove the Deer to the fpot where the Chieftains wereftationed, who Ihotthem at their leifure. The magnificent hunt, made by an Earl of yf//?c/, near this place, for the amufe- ment of James Y. and the Qiieen- mother, is too remarkable to be omitted ; the relation is therefore given as defcribed by Sir David Lindfay of the Mount *, who, in all probability, afTifted at it. " The Earl oi Athole, hearing of the King's " coming, made great prpvilion for him in all " things pertaining to a prince, diat iie was as well " ferved and eafed, with all things neceflary to his ** eftate, as he had been in his own palace o{ Edin-; '* hur^^h. For \ heard fay, this noble Earl gart ** make a curious palace to the King, to his Mo- «> *' ther, and to the EmbafTador, where they were " fo honourably eafed and lodged as they had been *' in England^ France^ Italy^ or Spain^ concerning ** the lime and equivalent, for their hunting and '" paffime •, which was builded in the midft of a " fair meadow, a fair palace of green timber, *J wind with green' birks, that were green both * Hiji. ScoilanJf 146. r I N S C O T L A N D. 165 *' under and above, which was fafl^ioned in four " quarters, and in every quarter and nuik thereof *' a great round, as it had been a block-houfc, " which was lofted and gefted the fpace of three " houfe height ; the floors laid with green fcarets " fpreats, medwarts and flowers, that no man *' knew whereon he zeid, but as he had been in a * •* garden. Further, there were two great rounds ^- *' in ilk fide of the gate, and a great portculleis *' of trte, falling down with the manner of a bar- *' race, with a draw-bridge, and a great flank of " water of fixteen foot deep, and thirty foot of *' breadth. And alfo this palace within was hung *? with fine tapeftry and arrafles of filk, and lighted ** with fine glafs windows in all airths ; that this *' palace was as pleafantly decored, with all necef- *' faries pertaining to a prince, as it hr.d been his *' own palace-royal at home. Further, this Earl *' gart make fuch provifion for the King, and his " Mother, and the Embaflador, that they had all " manner of meats, drinks, and delicates tliat were '* to be gotten, at that time, in all Scotland^ either " in burgh or land •, that is to fay, all kind of " drink, as ale, beer, wine, botli white and claret, *' maheryy mu/kadel, Hippocras-, aqiiavita. Further, *' there was of meats, wheat-bread, main-bread " and ginge bread ; with fiefnes, beef, mutton, ** lamb, veal, venifon, goofe, grice, capon, coney, ** cran, fwan, partridge, plover, duck, drake, *' briflTel-cock and pawnes, black-cock and muir- *' fowl, cappercaillies : and alio the ftanks, that f' were round about the palace, were full of all *^ delicate c^ A T O U R delicate fiflies, as falmonds, fronts, pearches, " pikes, eels, and all other kind of delicate fifhes *' that could be gotten in frelh waters ; and all " ready for the banket. Syne were there proper " ftewards, cunning baxters, excellent cooks and *' potingars, with confeflions and drugs for their deferts ; and the halls and chambers were pre- **" pared with coftly bedding, vefTcl and napery, ** according for a king, fo that he wanted none of *' his orders more than he had been at home in his " own palace. The King remained in this wilder- '* nefs, at the hunting, the fpace of three days and " three nights, and his company, as I have fhewn. ** I heard men fay, it coft the Earl oi Athole^ every " day, in expences, a thoufand pounds." But 'hunting meetings, among the great men, were often the preludes to lebellion ; for under that pretence they coUeded great bodies of men without fufpicion, which at length occafioned an a<5t of par- lement prohibiting fuch dangerous aiTemblies. ^ Set out for the county oi Aberdeen-, ride eaftward over a hill into Glen-Tilt^ famous in old times for producing the moft hardy warriors •, is a narrow glen, feveral miles in length, bounded on each fide ty mountains of an amazing height^on the fouth is the great hill of Ben y glo, whofe bafe is thirty- five miles in circumference, and whofe fummit towers far above the others. The fides of many of thefe mountains are covered with fine verdure, and aic excellent fiieep-walks : but entirely woodlefs. The road is the moft dangerous and the moft hor- rible I N S C O T L A N D. lo; rible I ever iravelled : a narrow path, fo rugged that our horfes often were obliged to crofs their legs, in order to pick a fecure place for their feet ; while, at a confiderable and precipitous depth be- neath, roared a black torrent, rolling through a bed of rock, Iblid in every, part but where the Tilt had worn its antient way. Salmon force their paffage even as high as this dreary ftream, in fpite of the diftance from the fea, and the difficulties they have " '^ to encounter, Afcend a fleep hill, on the top of which we re- frelhed ourfelves with fome goats whey, at a Sheelin^ Sheellns. or, as it is fometimes called, An-ie*^ and Bolbay^a. dairy-houfe, where the Highland fhepherds, or gra- ziers, live during fummer with their herds and flocks, and during that feafon make butter and cheefe. Their whole furniture confifts of a few horn fpoons, their milking utenfils, a couch formedi of fods to lie on, and a rug to cover them. Their food oat- cakes, butter or cheefe, and often the coagulated blood of their cattle fpread on their bannocks. Their drink milk, whey, and fome- times, by way of indulgence, whifky. Such dairy- houfes are rommon to moft mountainous countries : thofe in IVales are called Foilys, or Summer-houfes ; thofe on the Swifs Alps, Se fines. Dined on the fide of Locb-'Till, a fmall piece of water, fwarming with Trouts. Continued our jour- ney over a wild, black, moory, melancholy trad. Reached Brae-mar f •, the country aimoft inltantly • /. e. a boufe made of turf. •f- Jirae, fignifks a llcep face of-any hiJl. Ghaa-Tcd, 108 A T O U R changed, and in lieu of dreary waftcs, a rich vale, plenteous in corn and grafs, fucceeded. Crofs the Dee near its head, which, from an infignificanc flream, in the courfe of a very few miles, increafcs to the fizeof a great river, from the influx of num- Brae-mar. bers of Other waters. The rocks of Brae-mar^ on the caft, are exceedingly romantic, finely wooded with pine. The clifTs are very lofty, and their front mofl rugged and broken, with vaft pines growing out of their fifilires. "This tra£b abounding with game, was, in old times, the annual refort of numbers of nobility, who affembled here to pafs, a month or two in the amufements of the chafe. Their huntings refem- bled campaigns ; they lived in temporary cottages, called Lonquhards^ were all dreffed in an uniform habit conformable to that of the country, and pafled their time with jollity and good chear, mod admirably defcribed hy John Taylor^ the water poet, who, in 1618, made there his Pennilejfe Pilgrimage, and defcribes, in page 135, the rural luxury with all the glee of a Sancbo Panfa. *' I thank my good Lord Erjlin^ (fays the Poet) '* hee commanded that I (boukl alwayes.^ee lodged " in his lodging, the kitchen being alwayes on the *' fide of a banke, many kettles and pots boyling, " and many fpits turning and winding, with great " variety of cheere : as venifon bak'd, fodden, roft " and (lu'de bccfe, mutton, goates, kid, hares, " frefli falmon, pidgeons, hens, capons, chickens, " partridge, moore-coots, heath-cocks,caperkcllies, **- anci termagants; good ale, facke, white and cla- ret. I N S C O T L A N D. 105 *' ret, tent (or Allegant) and moft potent aqua^ (C • The French, during the reign o^ Charles IX. feemed not only to have made full as large facrifices lo Diana and Bacchus^ but even thought their entertainment incomplete without the prefence of Venus, yacques du rouilloux, a celebrated writer on hunting of that age, with n-.uch ftrioufnefj defcribes all the requifites for the chafe, and thus places and equips the jovial crew : — * L'Aflemblee fe doit faire en quelque beau « lieu foubs des arbres aupres d'une fontaine ou Ruilfeau, la * ou les veneurs fe doiuent tous rendre pour faire leur rapport. * Ce pendant le Sommelier doit venir avec trois bons chevaux * chargez d'inilrumens pour anoufer le gofier, conime cou- * trets, barraux, baril?, flacons et bouteilles : lefquelles doiuent * eftre pleines de bon vin d'' Arbors, de Beaume, de Chaloce et de * Graue : luy eftant defcendu du cheval, les metra refraifchir * en I'eau. ou bien les pou:ra faire refroidir avec du Can ire : * apres il eftandra la nappe fur la verdure. Ce fait, le cuifi- < uier s'en viendra charge de plufieurs hons hamois de gueuUy * comme jambons, langues de bcEuf fumees, groins, et wreilles * de pourceau, cervelats, efchinees, pieces de bccuf de Saifon, * carbonnades, jambons de Maxeuce, paftez, longes de veau * froides couuertes de poudre blanche, et autres menus fuf- * frages pour remplir le boudin iequel il metra fur la nappe. ' Lors le Roy ou le Seigneur avec ceux de fa table eftren- * dront leurs manteaux fur I'herbe, et fe coucheront de coRe * deffus, beuuans, mangeans, rians et faifans grand chere ;* * and that nothing might be wanting to render the encertain- ment of fuch a fet of merry men quite complete, honeil Jacques adds, ' et s'il y a quelque fcmme de reputation ea ce pays * qui fafle plaifir aux compagnons, elle doit etre aileguee, et * fes paffages ct remuemens de feffes, attendant le rapport a * venir.' ( But when the great man falHes out to the chace of foxes and badgers, he feems not to leave fo important an affair to chance, fo fets off thus amply provided in his triumphal car, « Le * Seigneur, {dys FouillouxJ doit avoir fa petite charrette, la * oii il fera dedans, avec la Fillctte aagee de feize a dix fept ' ans, laquelle luy frottera la telle par les chcmins. Toutes * les chevilles et paux de la charrett" do!ucnt eflre garnis de * flaccons et bouteilles, et doit avoir au bout de la charrette * un cofTre de bois, plein decoqs d'inde froids, jambons, lan- « gues de Bceufs et autre bons harno.s de gueule, Et fi c'eft * en temps d'hiver, il pourra faire porter fon petit pavilion, * et faire du feu dedans pour fe chauffer, ou bien donner un « coup en robbe a la nymphe.' ^. 3-. ~^, " All no A T O U R " All thefc, and more than thcfe, we had conti- *' nually, in fuperfluous abundance, caught by " faulconers, fowlers, fifhers, and brought by my *' Lord's (Mrr) tenants and purveyors, to vidual *' our campe, which confided of fourteen or fifteen " hundred men, and horfes. The manner of the " hunting is this : five or fix hundred men doe rife *' early in the morning, and they doedifpcrfe them- *' felves divers wayes, andfeven, eight, or ten miles " compaffe, they doe bring or chafe in the deer in *' many heards (two, three, or four hundred in a " heard) to fuch or fuch a place, as the noblemen " fhall appoint them ; then when day is come, the *' lords and gentlemen of their companies doe ride ** or go to the laid places, fometimes wading up to " the middles through bournes and rivers •, and . " then they being come to the place, doe lye dov/n *' on the ground till thofe forefaid fcouts, which *' are called xh^Tinckhell^ do bring down the deer; *' but, as the proverb fays of a bad cooke, fo thefe *' Tinckheli men doe lick their own fingers ; for, *' befides their bowes and arrows which they carry " with them, wee can heare now and then a hargue- " bufe, or a mufquet, goe off, which doe feldom " difdiarge in vaine : then after we had flayed ' " three hourcs, or thereabouts, we might perceive " the deer appeare on the hills round about us, " (their heads making a fhew like a wood) which " being followed clofe by the Thickbeli, are chafed " down into the valley where wee lay j then all the ** valley on each fide bfing way-laid with a hun- ** dred couple of ftrong Iridi grey-hounds, they arc *' let I N S C O T L A N D. m " let loofe, as occafion lerves, upon the heard of " deere, that with dogs, gunnes, arrowes, durks *' and daggers, in the fpace of two houres fourfcore *' fat deere were flaine, which after are difpofed of *' forae one way and fome another, twenty or thirty " miles, and more than enough left for us to make *' merry withall at our rendevouze. Being come *' to our lodgings, there was llich baking, boyling, *' rolling and ftewing, as if Cook Ruffian had been " there to have fcalded the Devill in his feathers." But to proceed. Pafs by the caftle of Brae-fftar, a fquare tower, built about a hundred and fifty years ago, to curb the difcontented chieftains ; but at prefent unnecef- farily garrifoned by a company of foot, being rented by the Government from Mr. Farquharfou^ of Invercauld, whofe houfe I reached in lefs than half an hour. Invercauld is feated in the centre of the Grampw.n hills, in a fertile vale, walhed by the Bee-> a large; and rapid river : nothing can be more beautifuil than the different views from the feveral parts of it. On the northern entrance, immenle ragged and broken crags bound one fide of the profpedl; over whofe grey fides and fummitsisfcattered the melan- choly green of the pidurefquC' pine^ which grows out of the naked rock, where one would think na^ ture would have denied vegetation. A little lower down is the caftle above-men- tioned ; formerly a necelTary curb on the little kings of the country j but at prefent ferves fcarce any purpofe, but to adorn the landfcape. The ii« A TOUR I'hc views from the flcirts of the plain, near Liver-' cauldy are very great ; the hills that immediately bound it arc cloathed with trees, particularly with birch, whofe long and pendant boughs, waving a vaft height above the head, furpafa the beauties of the weeping willow. Thefouthcrn extremity is pre-eminently magni- ficent •, the mountains form there a va(t theatre, the bolom of which is covered with cxtenfive forefts of pines : above, the trees grow fcarcer and fcarcer, and then feem only to fprinkle t!ie furface •, afie:^ which vegetation ceafes, and naked fummits * of a furprifing height fucceed, many of them topped with perpetual fnow •, and, as a fine contraft to the fcene, the great cataradl of Garval-bcurriy which feems at a diftance to divide the whole, foams amdift the dark forcft, rufhing from rock to rock to a vaft diftance. Some of thefe hills are fuppofed to be the highcft part of Great Lriiain : their height has not yet been taken, but the conjedure is made from the great defcent of the Dee, which runs from Brae-mar -f- ta the fea, above feventy miles, with a moft rapid courfe. Rode to take a nearer view of the environs ; crofied the Dee on a good (lone-bridge, built by the Government, and entered on excellent roads rin« Foreft. ii^t^<-> ^ magnificent forefl: of pines of many miles extent. Some of the trees are of a vaft fjzej I mea- • The higheft is called Ben v hcurJ, under which is a fmall lough, which 1 was told had ice the latter end of July. \ The moft diftaut from the fca of any place in }sorth Britain, 2 fured IN SCOTLAND. tij fured feveral that were ten, eleven, and even twelve feet in circumference, and near fixty feet high, forming a mod beautiful! column, with a fine ver- dant capital. Thefe trees are of a great age, having, as is fuppofed, feen two centuries. The value of thefe trees is confiderable ; Mr. Farqtiharfon in- formed me, that by fawing and retailing them, he has got for eight hundred trees five-and-twenty (hillings each : they are fawed in an adjacent faw- hiill, into plank ten feet long, eleven inches broad j and three thick, and fold for two fnillings apiece. Ntar tnis antient foreil is another, confiding of fmaller trees, almoft as high, but very (lender; one grows in a fmgular manner out of the top of a great done, and notwithdanding it feems to have no other nouridiment than what it gets from the dews, is above thirty feet high. The profpeft above thefe foreds is very extraor- dinary, a didant view of hills over a furface of ver- dant pyramids of pines. This whole tra6t abounds with game : the Stags Stags, at this time were ranging in the mountains -, but the little Roebucks * were perpetually bounding Roej, before us -, tnd. the black game often fprung under our feet. The tops of the hills fwarmed with Grcus Bird?; and Ptarmigans. Green Plovers, Whimbrels, and Snow-flecks -f-, breed here : the lad aflemble in great flocks during winter, and collect fo clofely in their eddying flight as to give the fportfman oppor- • Thefe animals are reared with great difficulty; even when taken young, eight out of ten generally die. f £r. Zob/. illujir. 17. tab. xi. i tutjty 114 A T O U R turity of killing numbers at a Ihot. Eagles *, Fcregrinc Falcons, and Go{hawI;s breed here : the Falcons in rocks, the Gofhawks in trees : the laft piirlucs its prey an end, and dafhcs through every thing in purfuit •, but if it miflTes its quarry dcfuls from following it after two or three hun- dred yards flight. Thefe birds are profcribed ; half a crown is given for an eagle, a (hilling for a hawk, or hooded crow. Foxes are in thele parts very ravenous, feeding on roes, (beep, and even (he g02L«i. Rooks vilit thefe vales in autumn, to feed on the different fort of berries; but neither winter nor breed here. I faw fiying in the forefls the greater Bulfinch of Mr. Ed-xards^ t::h. 125, 1 24. the Loxia enuckatcr of Lirir.jcuSt whofc food is the feed of pine cones j a bird conr.mon to the north of Europe and America. On our return pafled under feme hi;;h cliftsj with B>ch Woods, large woods of birch intermixed. This tree is ufcd for all forts of implements of hufbandry, rtx)nng of fmall houfeii, wheels, fuel •, the Highlanders alfo tan their own leather with the bark ; and a great deal of excellent wine is extra^cd from the live tree. Observed among thefe rocks a fort of pn>- jecting (htlr, on which had been a hut, accefliblc only by the help of fbmc thongs fattened by fome very expert climbers, to which the family got, in time of danger, in former days, with their mofl valuable moveables. • The P.icg adJ Eajl?, called here the Black £«§>. I fufpect, from the deicripdcn, th-i the Botrel breeds here. 1 heard alfo cf a bird, Ciilcd ice ^vcK.j.i jui cmim, b.: coald not pfx>care it. Tb« INSCOTLAND. i^S The honfcs of the common pccple in thefe parts Cottages. are fhocking to humanity, formed of Joofe ftones, and covered with clods, which they call devijlo^ or with heath, broom, or branches of fir : they look, at a diftance, like fo many black mole-hills. The inhabitants live very poorly, on oatmeal, barley- cakes, and potatoes ; their drink whifky fweetened with honey. 'The men are thin, but ftrong-, idle and lazy, except employed in the chace, or any thing that looks like amufement ; are content with their hard fare, and will not exert themfelves far- ther than to get what they deem necefTaries. The women are more induftrious, fpin their own huf- bands cloaths, and get money by knitting flocking?, the great trade of the county. The common wo- men are in general moll remarkably plain, and foon acquire an old look, and by being much expofed to the weather without hats, fuch a grin, and contraflion of the mufcles, as heightens greatly their natural hardnefs of features : I never faw fo much plainnefs among the lower rank of females^ but the ne plus ultra of hard features is not found till you arrive among the fifh- women of Aberdeen. Tenants pay their rent generally in this country in money, except what they pay in poultry, which is done to promote the breed, as the gentry are fo remote from any market. Thofe that rent a mill pay a hog or two; an animal fo detelled by the Highlanders, that very few can be prevailed on to tafte it, in any fiiape. Labor is here very cheap, the ufual pay being fifty fliiUings a year, and two pecks of oatmeal a week. I 2 Purfucd ttr. ii6 A T O U R Aug. 6- Purfiied my journey caft, along a beautiful! road by the river fide, in figlu of the pine forefts. The Vale now grows narrow, and is filled with woods of birch and alder. Saw on the road- fide the feats of gentlemen high built» and once dcfenfibk. The peafants cultivate their little land with great care to the very edge df the ftony hills. All tlie way are vafl: maifcs of granite, the fame vvliich is called in Cornwall, Moor-ftone. The Glen contrads, and the mountains approach each other. Quit the Highlands, pafling between Paft of BoUi» two great rocks, called the Pafs of Bollitir, a very narrow (trait, whofe bottom is covered with the tremendous ruins of the precipices that bound the road. I was informed, that here the wind rages with great fury during winter, and catching up the fnow in eddies, whirls it about with fuch impe- tuofity, as makes it dangerou-i for man or bead to be out at that time. Rain alio pours down fome- times in deluges, and carries with it (lone and gravel from the hills in fuch quantity, that I have feen thefe fpatcs, as they are called, lie crofs the roads, as the avelenches, or fnow-falls, do thofe of the Alps. In many pans of the Highlands were hofpitia for the reception of travellers, called by the Scotch, Spittles, or hofpitals : the fame were ufual in fVales, where they are ftyled Tfpitty, and, in both places, were maintained by the religious houfes : as fimilar yjfylums are to this day fup- portcd, in many parts of the Alps. This pafs is the caftern entrance into the High- lands. The country now allumes a new face : the hills I N S C O T L A N D. 117 hills grow lefs ; but the land more barren, and is chiefly covered with heath and rock. The edges of the Bee are cultivated, but the reft only in patches, among which is generally a groupe of fmall houfes. There is alfo a change of trees, oak being the principal wood, but not much of that. Refrelhed my horfes at a hamlet called Tiilloch^ and looking weft, faw the great mountain Laghin y gair^ which is always covered with fnow. Obferved feveral vaft plantations of pines, planted by gentlemen near their feats : fuch a laud- able fpirit prevales in this refpedl, that in another half-century it never fiiall be faid, that to fpy the nakednefs of the land are you come. Dine at the little village of Kincaird. Here- abouts the common people cultivate a great deal of cabbage. The oat-fields are inclofed with rude low mounds of ftone. Lay at a mean houfe at Banck&rie. The country, from Bollitir to this place, dull, unlefs where va- ried with the windings of the river, or with the plantations. The nearer to Aberdeen, the lower the country Aug. 7. grows, and the greater quantity of corn : in ge- neral, oats and barley ; for there is very little wheat fown in thefe parts. Reach Aberdeen, a fine city, lying on a fmall bay abeideek, formed by the Bee*, deep enough for fliips of two hundred tuns. The town is about two miles in circumference, and contains thirteen thoufand fouls, ;>nd about three thoufand in the fuburbs. It once * The bridge lies about two miles fouth of the town, and confiils of feven neat arches. I -^ enjoyed iiJ A T O U R enjoyed a good fhare of the tobacco trade, but was at length forced to refign it to Glafgciv^ which was fo much more convenif ntly fituated for it. At pre- fent, its in^.ports are from the Baltic^ and a few merchants tiade to the M'^eji-hdies and North Stockin" America. Its exports are (lockings, thread, fal- trade. nion, and ont-meal : the firil is a moft important article, as appears by the following ftate of it. For this manufadure, 20,800 pounds worth of wool is annually imported, and i6co pounds worth of oil. Of this wool is annually made 69,333 dozen pairs of {lockings, worth, at an average, il. IDS. /)^r dozen. Thefe are made by the country people, in almoft all parts of this great county, who get 4s. pr dozen for fpinning, and 14s. "per dozen for knitting •, fo that there is annually paid them 62,3291. 14s. And befides, there is about 2000I. value of {lockings manufaflured from the wool of the county, which encourages the breed of fheep much •, for even as high as Invercauld, the farmer fells his {heep at twelve {liillings apiece, and keeps them till they are four or five yecirs old, for the fake of the wool. About 200 combers are alfo employed con{lantly. The thread manufac- ture is another confiderable article, tho' trifling in comparifon of the woollen. Salmon. The faimon fifheries on the Bee and the Don, are a good branch of trade : about 46 boats, and 130 men, are employed on the firll; and in fome years, 167,0001b. of fi(h have been fcnt pickled to Lon- don, and about 930 barrels of faked fi{h exported to France, Ilaly, &c. The {ilhery on the Don is far lefs confiderable. The town of Aberdeen is in general well built, with I N S C O T L A N D. II9 with granite from the neighboring quarries. The beft ftreet, or rather p/^f^, is the Caftle-ftreet : in the middle is an odlagon building, with neat bas relievos of the Kings of Scotland, from James I. to James VII. The Town-houfe makes a good figure, and has a handfome fpire in the centre. The eaft and weft churches are under the fame roof; for the North Britons obferve oeconomy even in their religion : in one I obferved a fmall (hip hung up-, a votive offering frequent enough in Popijh churches, but appeared very unexpe6kdly here. In the church-yard lies Andre'-jj Canty minifler of AndreiuCunti Aherdeen^irom whom the Spcftator derives the word to cant ; but, in all probability, Andrew canted no more than the reft of his brethren, for he lived in a whining age * ; the word therefore feems to be derived from canto, from their fmging out their difcourfes. In the fame place are multitudes of long-winded epitaphs ; but the following, though fhort, has a moft elegant turn : Si fides, fi humanitas, multoque gratus lepore candor 5 Si fuorum amor, amicomm charitas, omniumque Be- nevokntia fpiritum reducere pojfent, Hattdheic/jtus {^^z Johannes Burnet a Elrick.1747. The college is a large old building, founded by College^ George Earl of Marechal, 1593- On one fide is this ftrange infcription ; probably alluding to feme fcoffers at that time : • In CiarUf the Fir It's dm*. I 4 They A T Q U R They have feid, Quhat lay thay ? Let Yame fay. In the great room are feveral good pidlurcs. A head of the Founder. The prefent Lord Marechal when young, and General Keith, his brother. Bi- fhop Burrtet in his robes, as Chancellor of the Gar- ter. A head of Mnry Stuart, m black, with a crown in one hand, a crucifix in the other. Arthur Jonjlon, a fine head, by Jamefcn. Andrew Canty \>y the fame. Gordon, of Strahkcb, publifher of the maps, and feveral others, by Jamefon. In the library is the alcoran on vellum, finely illuminated. A He}?rew Bibl^, Manufcript, with Rabinical jiotes, on vellum. Jfidori excerpta ex lihro : a great curiofity, being a complete natural hiftory, with figures, richly illu- rninated on fquares of plated gold, on vellum. A Paraphfafe on the Revelation, by JarAes VL with notes, in the King's own hand. A fine miflal *. There are aboiU a hundred and forty ftudents jjelonging to this college. The grammar-fchool is a low but neat building. Gordon^ hofpital is handfome -, in front is a good ftatue of the founder : it maintains forty boys, children of the inhabitants of Aberdeen^ who are apprenticed at proper ages. • There is alfo a very curious filver chain fix feet long', found in the ruins of the White Fryers; at one end is a round flat plate, on the other apear-fhapcd appendage. The IN SCOTLAND. '$2t. The infirmary is a large plain building, and fends , out between eight and nine hundred cured patients annually. On the fide of the Great Bleachery, which is common to the town, are the publick walks. Over a road, between the Caftle-ftreet and the river, is a very handfome arch, which muft attradl the atten- tion of the traveller. On the eafl of the town is a work begun by Cromzsi^el, from whence is a fine view of the fea : ' , beneath is a fmall patch of ground, noted for pro- ducing very early barley, which was then reaping- Prices of provifions in this town were thcfe : Provlfions,. Beef, (i6 ounces to the pound) 2d. ■*-. to 56. mut- ton the fame; butter, (28 ounces to the pound) 6d. to 8d. cheefe, ditto, 46. to 4d. -!-■ ^ large pullet; .6d. or lod. duck, the fame ; goofe, 2S. 3d. Crofs the harbour to the granite quarries that Granite contribute to fupply London with paving-ftones : the Hone lies either in large nodules or ip (hattery beds, are cut into fhape ; and the fmal.1 pieces for the middle of the ftreets are put on board for feven Ibillings per tun, the lopg ftones at ten- pence per foot. Vifited old Aberdeen^ about a mile north of the Aug. s. new i a poor town, feated not far from the Bon. ^^'^ ^^herdeeiu The college is built round a fquare with cloifters. The chapel is very ruinous within \ but there ftill remains fome wood- work of exquifite v^orkmanfhip- This was preferved by the fpirit of the Provoft, at the time of the reformation, who armed his peo- ple and checked the blind z^al of the populace. The T22 /V T O U R The library is large. The moft remarkable things are, 'John Trevifa's tranflation of HigderCs Folydronicon^ in 1387 ; the manufcript excellently wrote, and the language very good, for that time. A very neat Tiutch miflal, with elegant paintings on the margin. Another, of the angels appearing to the fhepherds, with one of the men playing on the bagpipes. A manufcript catalogue of the old trea- fury of the college. He5lor Boethius was the firfl principal of the col- lege, and fent for from Paris for that purpofe, on an annual falary of forty marks, Scots^ at thirteen- pence each. The fquare tower on the fide of the college was built by CrcmiveU for the reception of ftudents ; of which there are about a hundred be- longing to the college, who lie in it. In Bifhop Elphinfton\ hall, who was the founder, is a piflure of Bifliop Dunbar^ who finifhed what the other left incomplete. Forbes^ Bifhop of Aber- deen^ and ProfeiTors Sandiland and Gordon^ by Jamefon. The Sybils : faid to be done by the fame hand, but fcemed to me in too different a ftyle to be his j but the Sybilia AEgyptiaca and Erytbraa are in good attitudes. The cathedral is very antient •, no more than the two very antique fpires and one ifle, which is ufed as a church, are now remaining. From a tumulus^ called Tillie dron^ now covered with trees, is a fine view of an cxtenfive and rich corn country •, once a moft barren fpot, but, by the induftry of the inhabitants brought to its p'refent ftate. A pretty vale bordered with wood, the ca- thedral I N S C O T L A N D. 123 thedral foaring above the trees, and the river Bon^ form all together a mod agreeable profpedl. Beneath are fome cruives, or wears, to take fal- mon in. The owners are obliged by law to make the rails of the cruives * of a certain width, to per- mit fi(h of a certain fize to pafs up the river ; but as that is negledled, they pay an annual fum to the owners of the fifherics which lie above, to compen- fate the lofs. In the Regiam Majefiatem are preferved feveral antient laws relating to the falmon fifheries, couched in terms expreflive of the fimplicity of the times. From Saturday night till Monday morning, they were obliged to leave a free pafTage for the filh, which is ityled the Saterdnyes Sloppe -f. Alexander I. enaded, ' That the (Ireame of the * water fal be in all parts fwa free, that ane fwine * of the age of three zeares, well i^td, may turne * himfelf within the ftreame round about, fwa that * his fnowt nor taill fall not touch the bank of the * water. * Slayers of reide fiflie or fmoltes of falmond, * the thirde time are punifhed with death. And * fic like he quha commands the famine to be * done.* Jac. IV. pari. S.Jlat.Roh. III. Continue my journey : pafs over the bridge of Awe. 9, Don ; a fine gothic arch fiung over that fine river, from one rock to the other : ride for fome miles on the fea fands j pafs through Newhurghy a fmaU village, and at low water ford the Tihen, a river • Cruives, &c. Hiall have their heeke two inches wide, that the fry may pafs. R06. I. ^ produ6live X24 A T O U R produflive of the pearl mufcle : go through the parifli of Furvie-t now entirely overwhelmed with fand, (except two farms) and about 500I. ^i^r ann. loft to the Errol family, as appears by the oath of the faftor, made before the court of feffions in 1600, to afeertain the minifter's falary. It was at Inundarion that time all arable land, now covered with fhifting fands, like the deferts of Arabia^ and no veftiges remain of any buildings, except a fmall fragment of the church. The country now grows very flat ; produces oats J but the crops are confiderably worfe than in the preceding country. Reach Bownefs^ or Buchanefs^ the feat of the Earl of ErroU perched like a falcon's neft, on the edge of a vaft cliff above the fea. The drawing-room, a large and very elegant apartment, hangs over it , the waves run in wild eddies round the rocks be- neath, and the fea fowl clamor above and below, forming a ftrange profpedt and fingular chorus. The place was once defenfible, there having been a ditch and draw-bridge on the accclTible fide i but now both are deftroyed. Above five miles fouth is Shins, the remains of the old family caflle, featcd ftrongly on a penin- fulated rock ; but demolifhed in 1594, by James VI. on the rebellion of the Earl of Huntly. Near this place are fome vaft caverns, once filled with curious ftaladlical incruftations, but now deftroyed, in order to be burnt into lime ; for there is none in this country, that ufcful commodity being im- ported I N S C O T L A N D. '^2^ ported from the Earl of EIgtn*s works on the Firth of Forth. Here the (hore begins to grow bold and rocky, and indented in a ftrange manner with fmall and deep creeks, or rather immenfe and horrible chafms. The hmous Bullers of Buchan lie about a mile north SuUert of of Bownefs , are a vaft hollow in a rock, projecting Buchan„ into the fea, open at top, with a communication to the fea through 4 noble natural arch, thro' which boats can pafs, and lie fecure in this natural har- bour. There is a path round the top, but in fome parts too narrow to walk on with fatisfac- tion, as the depth is about thirty fathom, with water on both fides, being bounded on the north and fouth by fmall creeks. Near this is a great infulatcd rock, divided by a narrow and very deep chafm from the land. This rock is pierced through midway between the water and the top, and in great florms the v/ates rufii through it with vaft noife and impetuofity. On the fides, as well as thofe of the adjacent cliffs, breed multitudes of Kittiwakes *. The young are a fa- ir^f^aw, vorite dilh in North Britain^ being ferved up a little before dinner, as a whet for the appetite ; but, from the rank fmell and tafte, feem as if they were more likely to have a contrary efreft. I was told of an honeft gentleman who was fet down for the firft time to this kind of whet, as he fuppofed ; and after demolifhing half a dozen, with much im- patience declared, that he had eaten /^a-, and did • Br. ZqqI, illufir, 26. tah, xxiii, not 12^ — A T O U R not find himfelf a bit more hungry than befo;e he began. Fifberyoffea On this coaft is a great fiflicry of Sea Dogs *, °^^' which begins the laft week of July^ and ends the firft in September. The livers are boiled for oil i the bodies fplic, dried, and fold to the common ^ people, who come from great diftances for them. There are very fine Turbot taken on this coaft; and towards Peterhead^ good filherles of Cod and Ling. The Lord of the Manour has 3I. 6s. 8d. per annum from every boat, (a fix-man boat) but if a new crew lets up, the Lord, by way of encou- ragement, finds them a boat. Befides thefe, they have little yawls for catching bait at the foot of the rocks. Mufcles are alfo much ufcd for bait, and many boats loads are brought for that purpofe from the mouth of the Tthen. Of late years, a very fuccefsfull falmon fifliery has been fct up in the fandy bays below Slains. This is performed by long nets, carried out to fea by boats, a great com- pafs taken, and then hawled on (hore. It is re- marked, thefe fifh fwim againft the wind, and arc much better tafted than thofe taken in frelh waters. Mofl of the labor on fhore is performed here by the women : they will carry as much fifh as two men can lift on their fhoiilders, and when they have fold their cargo and emptied their bafl<.et, will re- place part of it with ftones : they go fixteen miles to fell or barter their fifh i are very fond of finery, and will load their fingers with trumpery rings, when they want both fhoes and ftockings. The • The picked Dog, Br. Zcol. III. -j-j, fleet I N S C O T L A N D. ' *27 fleet was the laft war fupplied with great numbers of men froni this and other parts oi Scotland, as well as the army : I think near 70,000 engaged in the general caufe, and affifted in carrying our glory through all parts of the globe : of the former, numbers returned •, of the latter, very few. The houfes in this country are built with clay, Houfes; tempered in the fame manner as the IJraelites made their bricks in the land of yEgypt : after dreffing the clay, and working it up with water, the la- borers place on it a large ftratum of flraw, which is trampled into it and made fmall by horfes : then more is added, till it arrives at a proper confiftency, when it is ufed as a plaifter, and makes the houfes very warm. The roofs are farked, i. e. covered with inch-and-half deal, fawed into three planks, and then nailed to the joifts, on which the flates are pinned. * The land profpefl is extremely unpleafant ; for no trees will grow here, in fpitc of all the pains that have been taken : not but in former times it mud have been well v/ooded, as is evident from the numbers of trees dug up in all the bogs. The fame nakednefs prevales over great part of this coaft, even far beyond Bamff, except iti a fcW warm bottoms. The corn of this tratt is oats and barley ; of the laft I have feen very good clofe to the edges of the cliffs. Rents are paid here partly in calh, partly in kind •, the laft is commonly fold to a contra(5lor. The land here being poor, is fet cheap. The peo- ple live hardly : a common food with them is 128 A T O U R fozvettS) the huflvs of oats, fifft put into a barrdl with water, in order to grow four, and then boiled. Aug. II. Croflcd the country wwa.rds Bawff^ over oat- lands, a coarfe fort of downs, and feveral black heathy moors, without a fingle tree fornumbers of Craig/lon miles. See Crnivflon caftlc, a good houfe, once Callle. . 'CD -> defenfiblc, featcd in a fnug bottom, where the plan- tations thrive greatly. Saw here a head of David Lejlyy by Jamefon^ and another of Sir Alexander Frazier^ by the fame. Pafled by a fmall ruined caflle, at a place called Cajlletony feated on a round hill in a deep glen, and fcarce accefllble. Ford the Devrofty a fine river, over which had been a beau- tiful! bridge, now wafhed away by the fioods. Reach Sawf. Bamff, pleafantly feated oh the fide of a hill ; has feveral ftreets i but that with the town-houfe in itj adorned with a new fpire, is very handfome : the harbor is very bad, as the entrance at the mouth of the Bevron is very uncertain, being ofteh flopped by the fiiifting of the fands, which ar6 continually changing, in great ftorms -, the pier is therefore placed on the outfide. ' Much falmon is exported from hence. About ^roop head, fom^ kelp is made ; and the adventurers pay the Lord of the Manour 50 1. -per ajin. for the liberty of colled- ing the materials. The Earl of Finlater has a houfe, prettily feated on an eminence, near the town, with fome planta- tions of flirubs and fmall trees, which have a good effeft in fo bare a country. The profpc6l is very fine, commanding the rich meadows near the town, 2 Dcwn I N S C O T L A N D. 129 D^ww afmall but well-built nfhing-town, the great promontory of Trcop-head, and to the north the hills of Rofsjhire, Sutherlfjid^ and Cathnefs. The houfe once belonged to the Sharps •, and the violent archbilhop of that name was born here. In one of the apartments is a pidure of Jamefon by himfelf, fitting in his painting-room, drefled like Rubens^ and with his hat on, and his pallet in his hand. On the walls are reprefented hung up, the pictures o{ Charles I. and his Queen ; a head of his own wife ; another head ; tv/o fea views, and Per- feus and Andromeda, the produdions of his various pencil. D/(^ Houfe, a vaft pile of building, a little way DuffUc^k, from the town, is a fquare, with a fquare tower at each end -, the front richly ornamented with carv- ing, but, for want of wings, has a naked look : the rooms within are very fmall, and by no mean^ anfwer the magnificence of the cafe. In the apartments are thefe pidures : Frances, Dutchefs of Richmond, full length, in black, with a little pifture at her breaft. ^t. ^y, 1633, by Vandyk. Fine heads o^ Charles I. and his Queen. A head of a Duff, with fhort grey hair, hy Alexander of Corfenday. Near the houfe is a fhrubbery, with a walk two miles long leading to the river. About two miles weft of Bamff, not far from the Aug. 12. fea, is a great ftratum of fand and fliells, ufed with fuccefs as a manure. Sea tang is alfo much ufed for corrl-lands, fometimes by itfelf, fometimes mixed with earth, and left to rot: it is befides often laid frelh on grafs, and anfv/ers very well. Pafied K by 130 A T O U R by thehonfc oi Boyne^ a ruined caftle, on the edge of a deep glen, tilled with Ibnie good afh and maples. Near Portfoy^ a fmall town, is a large llratum of marble, a coarfe fort of Verd di Ccrjica^ ufed in fome houfes for chimney-pieces. Reach CuUfnllovi^e. Ciillen Iloufe, feated at the edge of a deep glen full of very large trees, which being out of the reach of the fca winds, profper greatly. This fpot is very prettily laid out in walks, and over the en- trance is a magnificent arch fixty feet high, and eighty-two in width. The houfe is large, but ir- regular. The mod remarkable pictures are, a full length of "James VI. by Myiens : at the time of the revolution, the mob had taken it out oi Holyrood Houfe, and were kicking it about the ftreets, when the Chancellor, the Earl of FiuLiler, happening to pafs by, redeemed it out of their hands. A por- trait ot James Duke of ihmiltony beheaded 1649, in a large black cloak, with a fVir, by Vdndyk. A half-length of his brother, by the fame, killed at the battle o^ PVorceJlcr. IViUinm Duke of llamilton^ prefident of the revolution parlcment, by KnelUr, Old Lord Bamff, aged 90, wkh a long white fquare beard, who is laid to have incurred the cenfure of the church, at that age, for his galantrics *. The * Amonf; otherph5\uies of pcrfons of merit, that of the ad. mirablc C'ichton mull not lie civcrlooked. I w;is iuformed, that there is one of that extraordinary perfon in the poflcflion of Alrxandtr Motri/on, Efij; of Va^iiic, in the county of B^Tm/f; it is in the fame apartment with lome oi JamrjoH^^, but fecinj done by a fupcrior hand : came into Mr. Mtjrri/on'% poflcflion from the faouly of O/V/^/t «, Wi*i.Q\XTi\.Frendraught, chief of tJic I N S C O T L A N D. 131 The country round Cullen has all the marks of improvement, owing to the * indefatigable pains of the late noble owner, in advancing the art of agriculture and planting, and every orhbr ulefull bufincfs, as far as the nature of the foil would ad- mit. His fuccefs in the firft was very great j the crops of beans, peas, oats, and barley, v/ere ex- cellent-, the wheat very good, but, through the fault of the climate, will not ripen till it is late, the harveft in thefe parts being in Ocfober. The plantations are very extenfive, and reach to the top of the hill of Knock •, but the farther they extend from the bottoms the worle they luccecd. The town of Cullen is mean •, yet has about a hundred looms in it, there being a ilouriOiing ma- nufadure of linnen and thread, of which near fifty thoufand pounds worth is annually made. Near this town ih^ D \.\kt oi Cumberland^ after his march from Bamff-, joined the reit of his forces from Straithbogie^ and encamped at Cullen. In a fmali fandy bay are three lofty fpiring rocks, formed of flinty maflcs, cemented together very diiferently from any fbratum in the country. Thcfc are called the three Kings of Cullen. A little far- ther is another vafi rock, pierced quite through, formed of pebbly concretions lodged in clay, which had fubfiided in thick but regular layers. the name, to whom Cnchion probably fent it from Tialy, where he fpent the lafl years of his (hort, bvit glorio.Js life. * His Lordlliip colled^d together near 2000 fjuls, to hi? new town at Keith, hyfeui/ig; i.e. giving in perpetiuty, on. • payment of a flight ackuowlegemeiit, Ian i fjfficvent to build a houfe on, with gardens and back-yard. K 2 Palled 132 A T O U R Ave. aj. PafTed through a fine open country, full of gen- tle rifings, and rich in corn, with a few clumps of trees Iparingly fcattered over it. Great ufe is made Stone marie, hereof (tone mark, a gritty indurated marie, found in vaft ftrata, dipping pretty much : it is of dif- ferent colors, blue, pale brown, and reddifh ; is cut out of the quarry, and laid very thick on the ground In lumps, but will not wholly diflblve un- der three or four years. In the quarry is a great deal of fparry matter, which is laid apart, and burnt for lime. Arrive at Co/luQordon, CajtU-Gordcn^ a large old houfe, the feat of the Duke of Gordon^ lyitig in a low wet country, near lome large well-grown woods, and a confiderable one of great hollies. It was founded by George fecond Earl of Huntly ; and was originally called the caftle of the bog of Gight. The principal pic- tures in Cajlle-Gordon are, the firft Marquifs of Iluntly. Fourth Marquifs of Huntly^ beheaded by the Covenanters. His fon, the gallant Lord Gordon, Montrofc's friend, killed at the battle oi Auldfort. T^ord Lewis Gordon^ a lefs generous warrior j the plague * of the people of Murrayy (then the feat of the Covenanters) whofe character, with that of the brave Mcntrcfey is well contrafted in thefe old lines : Jf yc with Mcntro/c gae, ye'l get fie and wae enough ; If ye with Lord Lenvls gae, ye'l get rob and rave enough. • Whence this proverb, * The Guil, the Cor.Ion, and the Hooded Craw, < Were the three worft things Murray ever faw. Cutl is a weed that infdls corn. It was from the caftle of Rcti-es, on the Sp:j-, that Lord Levjis made his plundering cx- curfions into Murntv. The I N S C O T L A N D. 13 • The head of the fccond Countefs of Huntl)\ daughter of James I. A fine fmall portrait of the Able d'Jubignef fitting in his ftudy. A very fine head of St. John receiving the revelation ; a beau- tifull expreflion of atte'ntion and devotion. The Duke oi Gordon ftill keeps up the diverfion Falconry, of falconry, and had feveral fine Hawks, of the Peregrine and gentle Falcon fpecies, which breed in the rocks of Glenmore. I faw alfo here a true Highland gre-hound, which is now become very fcarce : it was of a very large fize, ftrong, deep chefted, and covered with very long and rougii hair. This kind was in great vogue in former days, and wkdt in vaft numbers, at the magnificent ftag-chafes, by the powerful! Chieftains. The Spey is a dangerous neighbor to Cajlle- The ^pry. Gordon^ a large and furious river, overflowing very frequently in a dreadful! manner, as appears by its ravages far beyond its banks. The bed of the river is wide and full of gravel, and the channel very fhifting. The Duke of Cumberland pafled this water at Beily church, near this place, when the channel was fo deep as to take an officer, from whom I had the relation, and who v/as fix feet four inches high, up to the bread. The banks are very high, and fleep j fo that, had not the Rebels been provi- dentially fo infatuated as to neglect oppofition, the paflTage muft have been attended with confiderable lofs. The faimon filhery on this river is very great : about feventeen hundred barrels full are caught in K 3 . the 1S4 A T O U R the feafon, and the (hore is rented for about i2Col. per annum. AvQ f i. Pafi'ed through Forchahus, a wretched town, clofc to the cafHe. CrofTed the Spey in a boat, and landed in the county oi Murray. The pealants houles, which, throughout the fliirc of Bamffy were very decent, were now become very mlferable, being entirely tnade of turf : the country partly moor, partly cultivated, but in a very flo- venly manner. El^ln, Dine at Elgin *, a good town, with many of the houfes built over piazzas •, excepting its great cattle fairs, has little trade ; but is remarkable for its ecclefiaftical antiquities. The cathedral -f- had bfcn a magnificent pile, but is now in ruins. Jon- fion^ in his encomia urbium^ Celebrates the beauty of Elgin^ and laments the fate of this noble building: u^rcihus heroum nitidis urbs cingitur^ intus Plebeii radiant., nchiliumque Lares : Omnia dcUHanty ceteris fed rudera lempli Dum fpe^as^ lachrymis^ Scotia tinge genas. The weft door is very elegant, and richly orna- mented. The choir very beautifull, and has a fine and light gallery running round it -, and at theeaft end are tv.'o rows of narrow windows in an excel- lent gotliic tafte. Ihe chapter- houfc is an oflagon, • Cehice Belle ville. ^ Founded by 'John, fecond fon of the hoofe Ctf Junes, and Bifhop oi Murray, 1406 ; of vvhofc epitaph I mtt with in a curious M. S hiHory of the li:nes family this fra;:ment. H:c jacet in Xio pater et Dominus, Dcminus Johannes de Innes bvjui Eccleji,r epijccfus — j^i hoc notabiU opus incepit 4t ptr Jepttnnium ediJica'Vit, the I N S C O T L A N D. J35 the roof fupported by a fine fingle column, with neat carvings of coats of arms round the capital. There is ftill a great tower on each fide of this cathe- dral ; but that in the centre, with the fpire and whole roof, are fallen in, and form moft awefull frag- ments, mixed with the battered monuments of Knights and Prelates. Boethius fays that Duncan^ who was killed by Macbeth at Invernefs^ lies buried here. Numbers of modern tomb-ftones alfo crowd the place ^ a proof how difficult it is to eradicate the opinion of local fanflity, even in a religion that afftifts to defpife it. About a mile from hence is the caftle Qi Spinle; SpinU. a large fquare tower, and a vaft quantity of other ruined buildings, flill remain, which fnews its an- tient magnificence whilfi the refidenceof the Bifhops ot Murray : the lake of Spinie almoft wafiies the walls j is about five miles long, and half a mile broad, featcd in a flat country. During winter, great numbers of v/ild fwans migrate hither j and I have been told, that fome have bred here. Boe- thius * fays they refort here for the fake of a cer- tain herb called after their name. Between this and Elgin is a ruined chapel, called Mciifon dieu. Near it is a large gravelly cliff^, from whence is a beautifull view of the town, cathedral, a round hill with the remains of a caftle, and be- neath is the gentle ftream of the Lojfiey the Loxia of Ptolemy. Three miles fouth is the Abby o£ Plufc^irdin, in piufcairdin a moil fequeftred place j a beautifull ruin, the ^'^'^X- * Scotorum Regni defer, ix, K 4 arches 1^6 A T O U R arches elegant, the pillars well turned, and the capitals rich *. Crofs the Lojfte^ ride along the edge of a vale, which has a ftrange mixture of good corn and black turberies : on the road-fide is a mill-ftone quarry. Arrive in the rich plain oi Murray, fertile in corn ; and the upper parts of the country produce great numbers of cattle. The view of the Firth of Murroy^ v/ith a full profpedof the high mountains oi RcfsJIjire and Sutherland, and the magnificent en- trance into the bay oi Cromartie between two lofty hills, form a fine piece of fcenery. ^iMlo/shhhy, Turn about half a mile out of the road to the north, to fee Kinlofs Abby+, the burying-place of many a Scottijh monarch. The Prior's chamber, two femicircular arches, the pillars, the couples of feveral of the roofs, afford fpecimens of the moft beautifull gothic architefture in all the elegance of fimplicity, without any of its fantaftic ornaments. Near the abby is an orchard of apple and pear I trees, at left coeval with the laft Monks j numbers lie proftrate ; their venerable branches fecm to have taken frelh roots, and were loaden with fruit, be- yond what could be expeded from their antique look. Great Near Forres, on the road-fide, is a vaft column, column. three feet ten inches broad, and one foot three inches thick : the height above ground is twenty-three feet ; below, as is faid, twelve or fifteen. On one fide are numbers of rude figures of animals and • As 1 was informed, for I did not fee this celebrated abby. •j- Founded about 1124, by Davitil. armed IN SCOTLAND. 137 armed men, with colors flying : fomc of the men feemed bound like captives. On the oppofite fide was a crofs, included in a circle, and raifed a little above the furface of the (tone. At the foot of the crofs are two gigantic figures, and on one of the fides is feme elegant fret-work. This is called King Suend's ftone ; and feems to be, as Mr. Gordon * conjedlures, erefted by the Scots, in memory of the final retreat of the Daries : it is evidently not Dafiijh, as fome have afTerted ; the crofs difproves the opinion, for that nation had not then received the light of chriftianity. On a moor not far from Forres, Boetbius, and Shake/pear from him, places the rencountre of MaC' heth and the three wayward fillers, or witches. It was my fortune to meet with but one, which was fomewhere in the lall county : fhe was of a fpecies far more dangerous than thefe, but neither withered^ fior wild in her attire, but fo fair. She look'd not like an Inhabitant o'th' Earth ! Boethius tells his ftory adm.irably well : but en- tirely confines it to the predictions of the three fa- tal fifters, which Shakefpear has fo finely copied in the IVth fceneof the ift a6l. The Poet, in confor- mity to the belief of the times, calls them witches-, jn fa6t they were the Fates, the Valkyrie -}- of the nor- thern nations, Gunnay Nota^ and Skulda, the hand- maids • It in, Ssptenir. 158. f From Walur, fignifying the flaughter in battle, and Kyria to obtain by choice : for their oiRce, befides feleiting out thofe that were to die in battle, was to conduct them to Valhallay the Paradife of the brave, the Hall of Odin. Their numbers are different, ibme make them three, others twelve, others fourteen j i^B A T O II R maids of Odin^ the ardic Mnrs^ and ftyled the Chufers of the Jlain^ it being their office in battle to mark thofe devoted to dea;]i. • We the reins to flaughter give. Oars to kill, and ours to fpare : Sflite of danger he (hall live, (Weave the crimfon web of war) *. Bocthius^ fenfihle of this, calls them Pnrc^ : and Shake/pear introduces them juft going upon their employ. When flial] we three meet again In thunder, lightning, or in rain ? When the hurly-burly* s donCf When the battle's loft or <woh. But all the fine incantations that fucceed, are bor- rowed from the fancifull Diableries of old times, but fublimed ; and purged from all that is ridicu- lous by the creative genius of the inimitable Poet, of whom Dry den fo juftly fpeaks : But Shakespear's magic cou'd not copied be^ Within that circle none durfi imalk but he. We laugh at the magic of others ; but Shake* /pearls makes us tremble. The windy caps f of King fourteen; are defcribed as being very heautifull, covered with tl<e fcathcrt of fwans, and armed with fpear and helmet. f ide Bartholinus de lauf. contempt, fwtrtui. 553, 554, & not<f •tel, Srephanii in Sax. Cramm. 88. & I'orfajus. p. 36- • Gray. ■\ King Eric was a great ma!gician, who by turning his cap, caulcu the wind 10 blow according ly his mind. 4 Eric^ IN SCOTLAND. 139 Eric, and the vendible knots of wind otWiftFinlnnJ* magicians appear infinitely ridiculous; but when our Poet drefTes up the fame idea, how horrible is the dorm he creates ! Though you untie the wines, and let them fight /\gainft the churches ; though the yefly waves Confound and fwallow navigation up ; Though blaced corn be lodged and trees blown down j Though caftles topple on their warders' heads ; Though palaces and pyramids do flope Their heads to their foundations ; though the tieafure Of nature's germins tumble nil together. Even till deftruftion ficken, anfwer rae To what I aflc. Lay at Forres^ a very neat town, feated under Forres. fome little hills, which are prettily divided. In the great flreet is the town houfe with a handfome <^u- polo, and at the end is an arched gateway, which has a good efFe6t. On a hill weft of the town are the poor remains of the caftle, from whence is a fine view of a rich country, interfperfed with groves^ the bay of Fin dr en, a fine bafon, almolt round, with a narrow ftrait into it from the fea, and a me- lancholy profped of the parifli of the fame name, now nearly overwhelmed with fand. This ftrange Inundation inundation is ftiU in motion, but moftly in the time of a weft wind : it moves along the furface with an even progreffion, but is ftopped by water, after * Solebant aliquando Finni, negotiatoribus in eorum litto- ribus contraria ventorum tcmpeftace impeditis, ventum ve- nalem exhibere, mercedeque oblata, tres nodos magicos msn caflioticos Icro conftridos eifdem reddere, eo fervato modera- mine ut ubi primum dijjoluer'mt, ventos haberent placidos ; ubi alterum, vehementiores ; at ubi tertium laxa'verint ita fas- vas tempeltates fe palTuros, &c. O/aajil/a^aajde gent. Sept. 97. which of fand. ^ «0 . A T O U R which it forms little hills : its motion is (o quick, that a gentleman afllired me he had feen an apple- tree fc covered with it, in one feafon, as to leave only a few of the green leaves of the upper branches appear above the furface. An eftate of about 300 1. per ann. has been thus overwhelmed j and it is not long fince the chimnies of the prin- cipal houfes were to be feen : it began about eighty- years ago,occafioned by the cutting down the trees and pulling up the bent, or ftarwort, which gave occalion at lall to the a6t 15th G. II. to prevent its farther ravages, by prohibiting the dcftruiflion of that plant. Aug, 15. Crofs the /vWrow ; land near a friable rock of whitifh ftonc, much tinged with green, an indica- tion of copper. I'he ftone is burnt for lime. From an adjacent eminence is a pi(5l:urerque view of Forres. About three miles farther is 'Tarnaway "csiiii. Caflle, the antient feat of the Earls oi Murray. The hall, called Randolph's Hall, from its founder Earl Randolph^ one of the great fupporters of Robert Bruce^ is timbered at top like Wejlmhijier Hall: its dimenfions are 79 feet by '^^■, 10 inches, and fcems a fit refort for Barons and their vaflals. In the rooms are fome good heads : one of a youth, with a ribband of fome order hanging from his neck. One unknown, with a black body to his vefl, and brown fleeves. The Fair, or Benny Earl of Murray^ as he is commonly called, who was murdered, as fuppofed, on account of a jealoufy James VI. entertained of a pafTion the Qiieen had for him ; at left fuch was the popular opinion, 2 Tarnnivay IN SCOTLAND. (^t •opinion, as appears from the old ballad on the occafion : He was a braw Gallant, And he played at the Gluve * ; And the bonny Earl of Murray^ Oh ! he was the Queene's Love. There are befides, the heads of his lady and daugh- ter ; all on wood, except that of the Earl. To the fouth-fide of the caftle are large birch woods, abounding with Stags and Roes. Continued my journey weft to Atddearne. Am JuUeame; now arrived again in the country where the Erfe fervice is performed. Juft beneath the church is the place where Montrofe obtained a fignal vidlory over the Covenanters, many of whofe bodies lie in the church, with an infcription, importing, accord- ing to the cant of the time, that they died fighting for their religion and their king. I was told this anecdote of that hero : That he always carried with him a Ccefar^s Commentaries, on whofe margins were written, in Montrofe'% own hand, the generous fentiments of his heart, verfes out of the Italian Poets, exprefling contempt of every thing but glory. ^ Have a diftant view of Nairn^ a fmall town near the fea. Ride through a rich corn country, mixed * For Glaive y an old word for a fword. * Then furth he drew his trufty Glaivey Quhyle thoufands all arround, Drawn frae their fheaths glanft in the fun. And Iciud the Bougills found.' Hardjknute. with r4-2 A T O U R vith deep and bl.Kk turberies, which ilicw the ori- ginal Hate of the land, before the recent introduc- tion of the improved method of agriculture. Reach €aiuJor. CoJder Caftle, or Ca'-jodor, as Sbakefpear calls it, once the property cf its tbatics. The antient part is a great fquare tower ; but there is a large and m'')re .Tiodern building annexed, with a draw- bridge. All the honfes in thcfc parts are caftles, or at left defenfible •, for, till the year 1745, the High- landers mavk' their inroads, and drove away thecattle of their dcfencelrfs neighbors. There arc faid to exift fome very old marriage articles of the daughter of a chicftiin, in v/hich the father promifcs for her portion, 200 Scots marks, and the half of a Af/- chaclmas moon, i, e. half the plunder, when the nights srewdark enough to make their excurfions. Rode into the woods of Calder^ in which were very fine birch trees and alders, fome oak, great broom, and juniper, which gave fhelter to the Roes. Deep rocky glens, darkened with trees, bound each fide of the wood: one has a great torrent roar- ing at its diftant bottom, called the Brook oi Ach- vem : it well merits the name of that of Acheron^ being a mofl: fit fcene for witches to celebrate their noflurnal rites in. Obferved on a pillar of the door of C^/J<?r church, A joug. zjougt i. e. an iron yoke, or ring, fattened to a chain j which was, in former times, put round the necks of delinquents againft the rules of the church, who were Ic-.t there expofed to Ihame during the lime of divine fervice : but thefe penalties are now happily I N ^ C O T L A N D. ,43 r happily abolifhed. The clergy of Scotland^ the ScctchzXzriy. moil decent and confiftent in their condu(fi: of any fee of men I ever met with of their order, are at prefent much chnr.ged from the furious, illiterate, and enthufiaftic teachers of the old times, and have taken up the mild method of perfuafion, in- ftead of the cruel difcipline of corporal punifh- ments. Science almoft univerfally flourilhes among them i and their difcourfe is not lefs Improving than the table they entertain the (Iranger at is decent and hofpitable./ Few, very few of them, permit the bewitchery of difilpation to lay hold of them, notwithftanding they allow all the innocer.t pleafures of others, which, though not criminal in the layman, they know, muil bring the taint of levity on the churchman. They never fink their characters by midnight brawls, by mixing with the gaming world, either in cards, cocking, or horfe- races, but preferve, with a narrow incorfie, a dig- nity too often loft among their brethren fouth of the T^weed *. The Scotch livings are from 40]. per ann. to 1531. ^a.'.Aliving^ per ann. a decent houfe is built for the miniiler on the glebe, and about fix acres of land annexed. The church allows no curate, except in cafe of fickncfs • To the WORTHY ! f But if in thefe days fuch apoftafes appear, (And fuch I am told are found there and here) O pardon, dear friends, a well-meaning zeal Too unguardedly telling the fcandal I feel ; It touches not ye, let the galled jades winch : Sou^d in morals and doftrine, ye never fhould flinch, fcc. &c. &c. ■ ^ 144 A T O U R or age, when one, under the title of helper, is ap- pointed ; or, where the livings are very extenfive, a miflionary or afiiftant is allotted -, but fine-cures, or fine-cured preferments, never difgrace the church of our fiRer kingdom. The widows and children of thofe who die in poor circumfhances are of late provided for out of a fund eftablifhed by two afts, 17th and 2 2d G. II. *. Crofs the Nairn ; the bridge large, but the -flream inconfiderable, except in floods. On the weft is Kilraz'och Caftle, and that of Dalcrofs. Keep due north, along the military road from Perth', pafs 'along a narrow low piece of land, projefling far into the Firt^^ called Arderfter^ forming a ftrait fcarce a mile over, between this county and that Fort George, of Cromartie -f. At the end of this point is Fort George, a fmali but ftrong and regular fortrefs, built fince 1745, as a place d'armes : it is kept in excellent order ; but, by reafon of the happy change of the times, feemed almoft deferred : the barracks are very handfome, and form feveral re- gular and good ftreets. Lay at CambeltowKy a place confifting of num- bers of very mean houfes, owing its rife and fup- port to the neighboring fort. Aug. 16. Pafied over CuUoden Moor, the place that North Britain owes itsprefcnt profperityto, by the vi(5loTy of April 16, 1746. On the fide of the Moor are the great plantations of CuUoden Houfe, the feat of the • An account of the government of tht church of Scotland was communicated to mc by the Reverend Mr. Brodie, the late worthy miniftcr of Calder. Vide Appendix, N"- I. f Between which plies a ferry-boat. lat; CuUoden. I N S C O T L A N D. 145 late Duncan Forbes, a warm and aflive friend to the houfe of Hanover, who fpent great fums in its fer- vice, and by his influence, and by his perfuafions, diverted numbers from joining in rebellion ; at length he met with a cool return, for his humane but unpolitical attempt to O^eath, after viflory, the unfatiated fword. But let a veil be flung over a few exccfTcs confequential of a day produdive of fo much benefit to the united kingdoms. The young adventurer lodged here the evening preceding the battle ; diflraded with the avcrfion of the common men to difcipline, and the diflfen- fions among his officers, even when they were at the brink of deftruftion, he feemed incapable of acting, could be fcarcely perfuadcd to mount his horfe, never came into the aftion, as might have been ex- pe(fted from a prince who had his laft fl:ake to play> but fled inglorioufly to the old traitor Lovat *, who, I was told, did execrate him to the perfon who in- formed him that he was approaching as a fugitive ; forefeeing his own ruin as the confequence -f. y The * His Lordfhip was at that time expefting the event of the battle, when a perfon came in and informed him, that he faw the Prince riding full fpeed, and alone. ■f- Regard to impartiality obliges me to give the following account, very recently communicated to me, relating to the Hation of the chief on this important day j and that by an eye- witnefs. The Scotch army was drawn up in a fingle line ; behind, at about 500 paces diftance, was a corps de re/cr-ue, with which was the Adventurer, a place of feeming lecuricy, fromi whence he ifl'ued his orders. His ufual drefs was that of the Highlands, but this day he appeared in a brown coat, with ;i loofe great coat over it, and an ordinary hat, fuch as country- men wear, on hi^ head. Kemote as tliis place was from che 14^ A T O U R The Duke of Cumberland^ v^hcn he found that the barges of the licet atcended near the fhore for the fatety of his perfon/in cafe of a defeat, imme- diately ordered them away, to convince his men of the refolution he had taken of cither conquering or pcrilhing with them. 1 he battle was fought contrary to the advice of fome of the moft fenfible men in the rebel army^ who advifed the retiring into the faHnelfes beyond the Nffsj the breaking down the bridge of Inver- nefs^ and defending themfelves amidft the moun- tains. They pohtically Urged xh^x. England was then engaged in bloody v/ars foreign and domeftic, that it could at that time ill fpare its troops \ and that the government might, from that confideration, be induced to grant to the infurgents their lives and fortunes, on condition they laid down their arms. They were fenfible that their caufe was defperate, and that their ally was faithlefs-, yet knew it might be long before they could be entirely fubdued -, therefore drew hopes from the fad neccfiity of our affairs at that feafon : but this rational plan was fu- perfeded by the favourite fartion in the army, to whofe guidance the unfortunate adventurer had re- figned himfelf. After defcending from the Moor, got into a well cultivated country -, and after riding fome tinie under low but pleafant hills,, not far from the fca, reach fpot the trifling a£>ion was, a fervant of Vn was killed by an accidental fliot. It is well known how (hort the conflid was : and the moment he faw his right wing give way, he fled with the utmoA precipitation, and without a flngl^ attendant. Inverness, IN SCOTLAND. 147 Inverness, finely feated on a plain, between the Invbrkss?, Firth of the lame name and the river Nefs : the firft, from the narrow ftrait of Ankrfier, inftantly widens into a fine bay, and again as fuddenly con- tra6bs oppofite Invernefsy, at the ferry of Kejfcck., the pafs into Rofsjlire. The town is large and well built, and very populous, being the laft of any note in North Briiain. On the north is Oliver's Fort, a pentagon ; but only the form remains to be traced by the ditches and banks. Near it is a ve^y con- fiderable rope manufifture. On an eminence fjuth of the town is old Fort Geor^e^ which was taken and blown up by the Rebels : it had bren no more than a very antienc caille, the place where Boethius fays that Duncan was murdered : from thence is a mod; charming view cf the Firth, the paflage of Kejfock^ the river Nefs, the llrange Ihaped hill of Tcrmnin heurich, and various groupes of diflanC mountains. That fingular Tommin is of an oblong form, broad at the bafe, and Hoping on all fides towards the top i fo that it looks like a great fhip with its keel upwards, hs fides and part of the neicrh- boring plains are planted, fo it is both an agreeable walk and a fine object. It is pctfedly detached from any other hill ; and if it was not for its great fize, might pafs * for a work of arc. The view from it is fuch, that no traveller will think his labor loft, after gaining the fummit. At Invernefsy and I believe at other towns in 6"^^?/- * Its length at top about 300 yards j I neglefled meafur- ing the bale or the height, which are both confiderabk; tiie breadth of the top only 20 yards. L 2 land^ 14? A T O U R land^ is nn officer, called Dean of the Cuild, who, afTided by a council, luperintends the markets, re- gulates the price -f- of provifions j and if any houfe falls down, and the owner lets it lie in ruins for three years, the Dean can abfolutely difpofe of the ground to the befl bidder. Crofs the Nefs on a bridge of feven arches, above which tiie tide flows for about a mile. Proceed north •, have a fine view of the Firth, which now widens again from Kejfock into a large bay fome miles in length. The hills flope down to the water-fide, and are finely cultivated ; but the diftant profpeft is of rugged mountains of a flu- pendous height, as if created as guards to the reft of the ifland from the fury of the boifterous north. Ride clofe to the water-edge thro* woods of alder, pafs near fcveral houfcs of the Fraziers^ and' reach Ca/iU Dunie. Caftle Dunie^ the fite of the houfe of their chief- tain Lord Lovat. The old houfe, which was very mean, was burnt down in 1746; but a neat box, the refidencc of the hofpitable faflor, is built in its ftcad on a high bank well wooded, over the pretty river Bewleyy or BeauUeii. The country, for a certain circuit, is fertile, well cultivated, and fmiling. The bulk of Lord Lovat's ellate was in thefe parts •, the reft, to the amount of 500I. per ann. in Straiiherick. He was a potent chieftain, and could raife about 1000 f Ikef, (22 ounccb to the pound) 2d. to 4d. Mutton, ati. to id Wal, 3d. to <;d. Pork, 2d. to 3d. CiiickenJ, 3d. to 4d. a couple. Fowl, ^d. to 6d. apiece. Goofe, izd. to i4d. Ducks, IS. a couple Eggs, icven a penny. Sal- mon, of which there arc fcveral great fifiierici, id. and id. halfpenny per pound, men : IN SCOTLAND. 149 men : but I found his neighbors fpoke as unfa-, vorably of him, as his enemies did in the moll diftant parts of the kingdom. His property is one of the annexed eftates, /. e. fettled unalienably on the crown, as all the forfeited fortunes in the High- Forfeited lands are: the whole value of which brought in at ^^^^^^s* that time about 6000I. per ann. and thole in the Lowlands about the fame fum •, lb that the power and intereft of a poor twelve thoufand per ann. terrified and nearly fubverted the conllitution of thefe powerful kingdoms. The profits of thefe eftates are lodged in the hands of Truftees, who apply their revenue for the founding of fchools for the inllruftion of chil- dren ia- fpinning ; wheels are given away to poor families, and flax-feed to farmers. Some money is given in aid of the roads, and towards building bridges over the torrents; by which means a ready intercourfe is made to parts before inacceflible to flrangers *. And in i753> a large fum was fpent on 2iX\Utopian proje6t of eftablilhing colonies (on the forfeited eftates) of difbanded foldiers and failors : comfortable houfes were built for them, land and money given, and Tome lent; but thefuccefs by no means anfwered the intentions of the proje£lors.^ Ford the Bewley, where a falmon fifhery, belong- Aug. 17. ing to the Lovat eftate, rents at 120I. per annum. The country on this fide the river is called Leornamo- Leomamo-- nach, or the Monk's Land, having formerly been the property of the Abby of Bewly ; and the oppo- fite fide bears the name of Airds^ or the Heights, ylirds. ' • The faftors, or agents of thefe eftates, are alfo allowed all the money they expend in planting. ISO A TOUR Pafs by fome excellent farms, well enclofcd, im- proved, and planted; the land produces wheat and other corn. Much cattle are bred in thefe parts, and there are feveral linnen manut'acflures. Caftle^rtf4«. Ford the Ccfis.n to Caftle Brann, the feat of Lord Fortrcfe\ a good houfe, pleafantly fituated on tiie fide of a hill, commands a view of a large plain, and to the well a wild profpefl of broken and lofty jnountains. There is here a fine full length of Mary Stuart, with this infcription, Maria D. G. Scctia piijfima reprta. Francise Dctaria. Aimo Mtatis Rcgrd 38. 1580. Her drefs is black, with a ruff, cap, hand- kerchief, and a white veil down to the ground, beads and prayer-book, and a crofs hanging; horii her neck •, her hair dark brown, her face handlbme, and confidering the difference of years, lb much refembling her portrait by Zucchero^ in Chf/icick Houfe, as to leave little doubt as to the originality of the laft. A fmall half-length on wood of He>jry Darn(y, infcribed Henncus Stuardtts Dominus D^rnly, JEu IX. M.D.LV. drcfild in black, with a fword; it js the figure of a pretty boy. A fine portrait of Cardinal Richlieu. General Monk^ in a buff coat. Head of Sir George Mac- ketifie. The Farl of Seaforth, called, from his fize, ]Cenneth More. Dutchefs oi' Bejufcrt, daughter of the Marquifs of Pozvis, Earl of Cajilcmaine, admi- ral in the time of Cpcirles II. Near the houfe are fome very fine oaks nnd horfc-chefnuts : in the garden, Turky apricots, orange nc<5larincs, and a fmall foft peach, ripe •, 4 other I N S C O T L A N D. 151 other peaches, nedlarines, and green gages, far from ripe. Pals through Dirigivall^ a fmall town, thecapital Dingiuall. of RofsJIjire, fituaced near the head of the Firth of Cromartie : an antient crofs, and an obeHfic over the burying-place of the Eails of Cromartie*s fa- mily, were all I faw remarkable in it. \ Ride along a very good road cut on the fide of a hill with the country very well cultivated above and below, with feveral fmall woods interfperfed near the water's edge. There is a fine view of al- moft the whole bay, the moft capacious and fecure Firth of Cr#. of any in Great Britain ; its whole navy might lie *"^^'^^'- there wii;h eafe, and (hips of two hundred tuns may fail up above two-thirds of its length, which ex- tends thirty miles, from the Suiters * of Cromartie to a fmall diftancc beyond Dingwall : the entrance is narrow •, the proje6ling hills defend this fine bay from all winds ^ fo it juftly me/its the name given it of Partus falutis. FouLES, the feat of Sir Henry Monro^ lies about Foulis, a mile from the Firth^ near vaft plantations on the flats, as well as on the hills. Thofe on the hills are fix miles in length, and in a very flourifhing Hate. On the back of thefe are extenfive vallies full of oats, bounded by mountains, which here, as well as in the Highlands in general, run from eaft . to weft. Sir Henry holds a foreft from the crown by a very whimfical tenure, that of delivering a fnow- Singular ball on any day of the year that it is demanded j • Suiters, c\r Shooters, two hills that form its entrance, pro- jeding conliderably'into die waiei. I. 4 and tenure. ^p2 A T O U R ?nd he feems to be in no danger of forfeiting his right by failure of the qiiit-renr, for fnow lies in form of a glaciere in the chafms of Benwezvijht a neighboring mountain, throughout the year. Ap-G. 1 8. Continue my journey along the low country, which is rich and well cultivated. Pa's near Invergorden *, a handfomehoufe, amidft fine p^nrp.dons. Near it is the narroweft part of the Firth, and a ferry into the (hire of Cromarty, row a country almoft deilitute of trees; yet, in the time of James V. was covered with timber, and over-run with wolves -f-. Ballin^gouan. Near the lummit of the hill, between the Firths of Cromartie and Dcrnccb, is BallinagouaUy the feat of a gentleman, who has mod fuccefsfully converted his fword into a plough-lhare ; who, after a feries of difmterefted fervices to his country, by clearing thefeas of privateers, the moll unprofitable of cap- tures, has applied himfelf to arts not lefsdeferving of its thanks. He is the bed farmer and the greatefl: planter in the country : his wheat and his turneps (hew the one, his plantations of a million of pines each year the other t. It was with great fatis- • At Culracn, three miles from this place, is found, two feet beneath the furface, a ftratum of white foapy marie filled with ihclls, and is much ufed as a manure. f Thefe animals have b. en lonj; extinft in North Brifain, rotwithflanding M. //e Bujcn a/l.-rts the contrary. There are many antitnt laws for iheir extirpation : that of Jamts I. farlem. 7. is the moil remarkable: " I'he Schireffs& Barons fold hunt the wrlf four or ^hrie tjme» in the Zcar, betwixt 5t. Maris day & Latnbei, qiihich is the time of their quhelpes, & all tcncntj fall rife with them under paine of ane wad- der." X Pine, or Scotch fir- feed, as il is called, (^lls from four to fix I N S C O T L A N D. '»i3 fatisfafbion that I obferved charafters of this kind very frequent in North Britain ; for during the in- terval of peace, every officer pofTefTed of any pa- trimony was fond of retiring to it, aflumed the far- mer without flinging ofi^ the gentleman, enjoyed rural quiet ; yet ready to undergo the fatigues of war the moment his country clamed his fervices. About two miles below Ballinagouan is a melan- choly inftance of a reverfe of conduft : the ruins of New 'Tarhaty once the magnificent feat of an AWu ^rurlat, unhappy nobleman, who plunged into a moft un- gratefull rebellion, deftruftive to himfelf and fa- mily. The tenants, who feem to inhabit it gratis^ are forced to fheker themfelves from the weather in the very loweft apartments, while fwallows make their nells in the bold ftucco of fome of the upper. While I was in this county, I heard a Angular but well-attefted relation of a woman difordered in her health, who failed for a fupernatural fpace of time ; but the length of the narrative obliges me ^o fling it into the Appendix *. Ride along a tedious black moor to7W/», a fmall town on the Firth of Dornoch ; diftinguilhed for nothing but its large fquare tower, decorated with five fmall fpires. The place appeared very gay at this time -, for all the gaudy finery of a little fair was difplayed in the Ihew of hard ware, painted linnens, and ribbanids. Kept along the fix (hillings per pound. Rents are payed here in kind : the landlord either contrafts to fupply the forts with the produce of the land, or fells it to the merchant, who comes for it. The price of labor is 6d. per day to the men, 3a. to the women, • No, II. fliorf, 154 ■ A T O U R fliore, for about two miles, through an open corn country, and crofTing the great ferry, in breadth near two miles, thro* a rapid tide, and in a bad boat, land in the county of Sutherland, and in lefs than an hour reach its capital. Dornoch, Dornoch, a fmall town, half in ruins ; once the refidence of the Bifhops of Cnthnefs^ and, like Dur- ham, the feat of Ecclefuidics : many of the houfcs ftill are called ;'!fter the titles of thole that inhabited them : the Bifhop lodged in the callle: the Dean's houfe is at prefent the inn : the cathedral was in form of a crofs, and is now a ruin, except parr, which is the prefent church. On the doors and window- lhu:ters were painted (as is common in many parts of Nor/ h Britain) white tadpole-like figures on a black ground, dcHgned toexprefs the tears of the . country for the lofs of any perfon of diftinclion. 'J'hefe were ocraOon'ed by the afl*e(5ting end of that amiable pair the young Earl and Countefs ofSulbsr- hnd, who were lovely in their lives, and in their deaths they v/ere not divided, for their happinefs was interrupted by a very fhort feparation \fnne uhi idem et maxtmus et honejfi'ffimus amor eft, alic^uando p\rflat morte jungi, qunrn vita dtjtrahi *. Ride on a plain not far from the fea; pafs by a fmill crofs, called the Tbtine^s Crofs \ and not far from thence the fpot where an unhappy creature had been"' burnt, if I miftake not, in yi4j!e i 727, for tr.e imaginary crime of witcbc)-i:ftf. Crofs • Whef<* a'mutual and inoft arr^rnt and mod virtuous alvet^Vion rrigiis, it is fomctimcs prelei^ble to be united by death, than torn artindcr by liTc. f" This i, the lall InHaacc of ihcfc frantic executions in the IN SCOTLAND. 155 Crofs a very narrow inlet to a frnaU bay at Porth' heg^ or the little ferry, in a boat as dangerous as the laft ; for horfes can neither get in or cut with- out great rifque, from the vaft height of the fides and their want of flips. Keep along the ihore, pafs by the fmall village of Golfpie, and reach Dunrobin caftle, the anticnt feat of the Earls of Dunrohlut Sutherlatid^ founded about the year iioo, fituatcd on a round hill at a fmall diftance from the fea. The fev/ paintings here are, an Earl oi Murray ^ an old man, on wood. His fon and two daughters, by Co. G. 1628. A fine full length of Charles I. Aligns WilUamfoiu a. hero of the clan Chattan, who refcued the Sutherlands in the time of diftrefs. A very fingular picture- of the Duke of Aha in coun- the north of Scotland, as that in the fcath was at Paijly in i6q6, where, among others, a woman, young and handfome, fuffered, with a reply to her enquiring friends, worthy a Roman matron, being aJked why llie did not make a better defence on her tryzX, zni':ievc6, My per/ecutors ha've iitjiroyed my honor, and my life is not noiu luorih the pains of defending. The lall inllance of national credulity on this head was the ftory of the witches of Thurfo, who tormenting for a long time an honeft fellow under the ufual form of cats, at lall provoked him {q, that one right he put them to flight wi'.h his broad fword, and cut off the leg of one lefs nimble than the reft ; on his taking it up, to his amazement he found it belonged to a female of his own fpecics, and next morning dilcovered the owner, an old hag, with only the com pa- nion leg to thif. The horrors of the tale were confiderabiy abated in the place I heard it, by an unlucky enquiry made by one in company, 'vi-x.. In what part would the old woman have fufFered, had the man cut off the cat's tail ? But Hhefc relations of almoft obfolete fuperftitions muft never be though t a refleftion on this country, as long as any memory re- mains of the tragical end of the poor people at Trmg, who, within a few miles of our capital, in 1751, f^^H a facrificeto the belief of the common people in witches, or of that ridiculous impofture in the capital itfelf, in 1762, of the Cock' l,ant ghoft, which found credit with all lanks of people^ cil. 15^ A T O U R cil, with a cardinal by his fide, who puts a pair of bellows blown by the Devil into his ear; the Duke lias a chain in one hand, fixed to the necks of the kneeling Flemings ; in the other he fhews them a paper of recantation for them to fign, behind whom are the reformed Clergy. The demefn is keep in excellent order, and I faw here (lat. 58.) a very fine field of wheat, which would be ripe about the middle of next month. This was the laft wheat which had been fown this year in North Britain, Sutherland is a country abounding in cattle, and fends out annually 2500 head, which fold about this time from 2I. los. 1031. * per head. Thefe are very frequently without horns, and both they and the horfes are very fmall. Stags abound in the hills, there being reckoned not lefs than i6qo on the Sutherland eftate, which, in fad, is the greateft part of the county... Befides thefe are Roes, Grous, black game and Ptarmigans in plenty, and during winter multitudes of water-fowl on the coaft. Not far from Dunrohin is a very entire antiquity of the kind known in Scotland by the name of the FiHijhQdX- P/<J?(/^ Caftles, and called here Cairn Lean, or a tki. gj-ey tower: that I faw was about 130 yards in circumference, round, and raifed fo high above the ground as to form a confiderable mount : on the top was an extenfive but (hallow hollow ; within were three low concentric galleries, at fmall dif- tances from each other, covered above with large (tones j and the fide-walls were about four or five f Lean. feet I N S C O T L A N D. >57 feet thick, rudely made. There arc generally three of thefe places near each other, fo that each may be feen from any one. Whether thefe were the fuffugia hiemi aut receptacula frugihus of the Pi^ts^ as they were of the Germans^ or whether they might not have been ufed for religious purpofes, as fuch hollows have been in Norway *, I will not pretend to decide : if the laft, I would fuppofe fome of the galleries to be for the priefts, the others for the viftims, who were chofen by lot, and who might be brought to be facrificed in the concave area above, which was well adapted to retain their blood, that was to be fprinkled on the fpecftators, on the polls of their houfes, and on the fails of their fhips f. Kept along the Ihore northward. About a mile Auo. 19. from the caftle are fome fmall cliffs of free-ftone ; in one is Straith-leve7i Cove, an artificial cave, with feats and feveral Ihallow circular hollows cut within- fide. At fome diftance, and near the fea, are fmall ftrata of coal three feet thick dipping to the Coal. eaft, and found at the depth of about 14 to 24 yards. Sometimes it takes fire on the bank, which has given it fo ill a name, that people are very fearfull of taking it aboard their fhios. I am fur- prized that they will not run the rifque, confider- ing the miraculous quality it poflefles of driving away rats wherever it is ufed. This is believed by the good people of Sutherland^ who affured me fsrioufly of its virtues •, and they farther attributed the fame to the earth and very heath of their • Wormii Monumenta Danica lib, I. p. 6. •f Wbrm, Monum, lib, V .p, 2<j. 2 county. 15^1 A T O U R connty. They add too, that not a rat will live with therq, notwithitanding they fwarm in the ad- jacent fliires of Ro/s and Cathnefs *. In /IJfynt^ a. part of this county, far weft of Dun^ rQhiriy are large ftrata of a beautiful white marble, *cqua], as I was told, to the Parian. I afterwards faw Tome of the fame kind found at Clenavon in Bndtnocb. Crofs the water of Brora, which runs along a deep chafm, over which is a handfome bridge of a fingle arch. Near is a cave, where the Salmon- fidiers lit during the feafon : the roof is pierced through to the furface, which fcrves for a natural chimney. They take annually about lo or 12 lafts of fifh. In a bank not far from the bridge are found abundance of Belemmt<e. The country is very fandy, and the arable, or cultivated parr, very narrow, confined on the caft by the fea, on the wed by lofcy black mountains, which approach nearer and nearer to the water, till • Some years ago I bought of the Monks, at the great BeneJiSiinc convene at /lug/burg, Tome papers of St. Ulric'% earth, which I was afl'urcd, by Lutheran and Papiji, had the Tame rat-cxpclling quality with that above-mentioned ; but whether for want of due faith, or negledl of attending to the forms of the printed prefcripiion given with them (here copied at full length) I know not, but the auuacious aniinals haunt iTiy hoiHe in fpite of ii : — VcnerabiUs Rdiqu-if Jt Terra St- puk'-rali, Jive de rejhluta a'cintus cnrne S. Udalrici Coiif. if Epijcopi Auquftani ; qu.v ft honorifiie ad injfor aUarum Rcli- quiarum hahnntur, l£ ad Dei laudetn, Diinque PrtrfuUs honcrerrtt plum quoddttm opus^ v. g. Oratio, "Jrjunium, Eleemofyna^ &c. pra:jhtury mirum ejl, qua polJcant e^cacia, ad projcribcndts prajtrtim c domibus, tif ijicinia Glim, qui fubjljlere minimc va- lent, ubieuHqne fnniles Rrliquite aim Jidmcid fucriut afpenfa, 'utl ajjirvata. Idque ex Jpteiali prrsrogau-vd, qua omnipotens Deas infignia tantiPatroni meriia ptrpttut miraculoJiatHit condecorart. ac IN SCOTLAND. .j^^ at length they projcfl into it at the great promon- tory the Ord of Cathnefs^ the boundary between that county and 'Sutherland^ after which the coaft is bold and rocky, except a fmall bay or two. Ford tiie very dangerous wz^ter of fJemfdale, rapid Hmfaale, •nd full of great (lones. Very large Lampries are found here, fifh detcfted by the Highlanders. Be- neath the ftones on the fea-ftiore are abundance of fpotted and viviparous Biennies, Father Lafiiers, and Whiftie FiQi. IVIackrel appear here this month, but without their roes. I thought them far inferior in goodnefs to thofe of our counLry. Much fal- mon is taken here. The grey Water-wagtail quits this country in the winter ; with us it refides. Dined at the little village of Hemfdale ,', near which are the ruins of a fquare tower. Pafisd through a rich vale full of good barley and oats between the hill of Hemfdale and the Ord. Ord of Caih- Afcend that vaft promontory on a good road wind- ^^•^^' ing up its deep lidesj and impending in many parts over the fea, infinitely more high and horrible tlian our Fenviacn Mawr. Beneath v/ere numbers of Seals floating on the waves, v^ith fea-fowl fw/imming among them with great fccurity. Obferved" pro- jecting from one part of the 0;v/, far below, a fmall and verdant hill, on which, tradition fays, was fought a fingle combat between an Earl of Cathnejs and a fon of the Earl of Sutherland, while their two armies looked on from above: the £rft was killed on the fpot, the lad died of his wounds. Beneath this cape are immenfe caves, the-refof: of i6o A T O U R of Seals * and Sea-fowls : the fides and top are chiefly covered with heath and morafly earth, which gives it a black and melancholy look. Ride over fome boggy and dreary moors. Pafs thro' AufdaJc, a little highland village. Defcend into a deep bot- tom covered with alders, willows, birch and wicken trees, to Langwall, the feat of Mr. Sutherland, who gave me a very hofpitable reception. The coun- try abounds with Stags and Roes, and all forts of feathered game, while the adjacent river brings Salmon almoft up to his door. Lavcllan. \ enquired here after the Lavellanf, which, from defcription, I fufped to be the Water Shrew- moufe. The country people have a notion that it is noxious to cattle : they preferve the Ikin, and, as a cure for their fick beads, give them the water in which it has been dipt. I believe it to be the fame animal which in Sutherland is called the Water Mole. Aug. 20. Proceed on my journey. Pafs near Berridale. On a peninfula jutting into the fea is the ruin of the caftle ; between it and the land is a deep chafm, where there had been a draw-bridge. On this caftlc are ftationed, in the falmon feafon, perfons who arc to obferve the approach of the fifh to the freih waters. Near Clathron is a druidical ftone fet an end, and of a moft ftupendous fizc. • During fpring great quantities of I.ump-fifh refort here, ar^d are the prey of the Seals, as appears from the numbers of their flcins, which at that feafon float afhorc. The Seals, at certain times, fecm vifited with a great mortality ; for at th"fe times multitudes of them are feen dead in the water. t SitbaUhiJi.Scbtland. Br . ZaoU illuji . cii. Saw I N S C O T L A N D. i5i Saw Bunheth *, the feat of Mr. Sinclair, fituated Dmbetb. on a narrow neck of land ; on one fide impending over the Tea, on the other over a deep chafm, into which the tide fiov/s : a fmall narrow garden, with billows beating on three fides, fills the reft of the land between the houfe and the fea. Numbers of old caftles in this county have the fame tremendous fituation. On the weft fide of this houfe are a few rows of tolerable trees ; the only trees that I faw. from Berridale to the extremity oi Cathnefs -f. On the right inland are the fmall remains of Knnckennan caftle, built by an Earl of Cnthnefs. From thefe parts is a full view of the lofty naked mountain cf Scaraben and Morven. The laft Ptamiigans in Scaral^Gi Scotland are on the fi^ft^•, the laft Roes about Lang- wally there being neither high hills nor woods be- yond. All the county on this fide, from Dunbeib to the extrem.ity, is flat, or at left very feldom in- terrupted with hills, and thofe lov/ ; but the coafts rocky, and compofed of ftupendous cliffs. Refreftied our horfes at a little inn at the hamlet of Clyihe, not far from the headiandi called Clythe- nefs. Reach Thrtimjler, a feat of Mr. Sinclair^. It is obfervable, that the names of places in thifi county often terminate in ter and dak^ v/hich favors of Danijh origin. The Sinclairs are very numerous, and poHefs confiderable fortunes in thefe parts ; but BoeihiuS * This caftle was taken and garrifoned by the Marquifs of Montrofe '\n I'Sjo, immediately preceding his final defeat. f But valt quantity of fubterransojs timber in all the moors. Near Dunbeth is an entire FiS}s caflle, with the hol- low iu the top, and is called the Bourg of Dunbeth. M faysj H'kk. 162 A T O U R Tays, that tliey, the Frciziers, Camphdls, BofiveU^ and many others, came originally from Trance. •Aun^.^zK Pafs through Wick^ a fmall burrough town with fome good Iioufcs, feated on a river within reacli of the tide, and at a diftance lies the old caftle. Somewhat farther, clofe to the fea, is Archringal tower, the feat of Sir IVilHam Dunhnr, Ride over the Links of Keith^ on the fide of Sinclair bay. Thefe were once a morafs, now covered with iand, finely turfed over -, fo in this inftance the land has been obliged by the inftability of the fand. The old caftle of Keifs is feated on a rock, with a good hoLife of the fame name near it. Near Frefioick caftle the cliffs are very lofty j the ftrata that compofe them lie quite horizontally in fuch thin and regular layers, and fo often inter- fe6ted by fifllires, ns to appear like mafonry. Be- neath are great infulated columns, called here Stacks^ compofed of the fame 1 .»rt of natural ma- fonry as the cliffs ; many of them are hollowed quite thro', fo as to form moft" magnificent arches, which the fea ruflics' thro' v/ith vaft noife and im- petuofity, affording a moft auguft piece of fcencry to fuch who arc fleady enough to furvey it from the narrow and almoft impending paths. Frt/ivick Frffivick caftle is feated on a narrow rock pro- jeding into the fea, with juft room enough for'it to ftand on : the accefs to it while the draw- bridge was in being, was over a deep chafm cut thro' the little ifthmus that conne(^.ed it to the main land. 1 hcfe dreadful fiiuations arc ftrongly exprcfiive of the 4 caiile. I N S C O T L A N D. 163 the jealous and v/retched condition of the tyrant owners. After riding near Frefivhk bay, the fecond fandy bay in the county, pafs over a very bad morals, and after a few miles travel arrive at Bungjh bay *, Dungjhy bay, a low tracl, confining of oat-lands and grazing land : the ullima "Thule of Mr. Wallace, whofe dc- fcription it fully anfwer.s in this particular. '^am juxta infamcs fcopi'.H, ei petrofa vora^o Afperat undifonis faxa pudenda vadis -}-. The beach is a colle6tion of fragments of Ihells ♦, beneath which are vaft broken rocks, fome funk, others apparent, running into a fea never pacific. The contrary tides and currents form here a moft tremendous ccnteft ; yet, oy the ikilfulnefs of the people, are pafied with great fafety in the narrow little boats I faw lying on the fhore. The points of this bay are Dungjhy h^zd and St. John's head, flretching out into the fea to the eaft and weft, forming a pair of horns ; from the re- femblance to which it iLould feem that this country • was antiently ftyled Cornana. From hence is a full view of feveral of the Orkney q ■> , ^ > iflands, fuch as FlofUy fFaes^ Ronaldfa, S'lvanna, to the weft the Skerries^ and within two miles of land Stroma, famous for its natural mummies, or the j^iyj^mlcs. entire and uncorrupted bodies of perfons who had been dead fixty years. I was informed that they were very light, had a flexibility in their limbs, and • John a Grout" s houfe is now known oniy by name. The proper name of the bay is Duncan's, f Quoted by Mr. Wallace &om the Itn Balthkum of Conrad us Cehes, M 2 were 164 A T O U R were oi' a dufky color *. This ifle is fertile in corn, is inhabited by about thirty families, who know not the life of a plough, but dig every part of their corn land. Dine at the good miniftcr's of Canmjhy. On my return faw at a diilance the Stacks of Dungjhy, a vail infulated rock, over-topping the land, and ap- pearing like a great tower. ''Pafied near the feat of a gentleman not long dcceafed ; the lad who was believed to be poffcfled Second .I^I.r, of x\\z fccond fight. Originally he made ufe of the pretence, in order to render liimfelf more refpedtabic with his clan-, but at length, in fpite of fine abili- ties, was made a dupe to his own artifices, became poflcfTed with a ferious belief of the faculty/and for a confiderable number of years before his death was made trucly unhappy by this flrange opinion, which originally arofe from the following accident. Ik boat of his was on a very tempelluous night at fea ; his mind, filled with anxiety at the danger his people were in, furnillied him with ej'ery idea of the misfortune that really befell them : he fuddenly itarting'up pronounced that his men would be drowned, for that he had fcen them pafs before him with wet garments and dropping locks. The event was correfpondent, and he from that time grew confirmed in the reality of fpedral prcdid:ions. * In the Philofcphical TranfaSiont abridged, viii. 705. is an alnioR parallel in!fance of two corpfes, found in a moor in Derhyjhtre, that had 101-49 years refilled putrcr.i<!^ion, and were in muvh the (Jmc Hate as tliofe in t^irctna. In vol. xlvii. of the P}}. Tr. at large, is an account of a body found entire and imputrid at Stairrien in Devonjhirt, 80 years after its inter- meiit. There 7A' GA-NWET ^«///J/m4 J'lrt^e^^ Ji. J/Ut-nf}' J' IN SCOTLAND. 165 There is another fort of divination, called Sleina- nachdt or reading ihc fpeal-hom^ or the blade- bone of a fhoulder of mutton well fcrnped. When Lord hcudon was obliged to retreat before the Rebels to the ifle of ^kie^ a common foldier, on the very mo- ment the battle of Culloden was decided, proclamed the vi(5lory at that diftance, pretending to have dif- covered the event by looking through the bone. I heard of one inftance cf fecond fight, or rather of forefight, which was well attefted, and made much noife about the time the prediflion was ful- filled. A little after the battle of PrejJon Pans, the prefident, Duncan Forbes, being at his houfe of Cul- loden with a nobleman, from whom I had the rela^ tion,fell into difcourfe on the probable confequcnces of the action : after a long converfaticn, and after revolving all that might happen, Mr. Forbes fud- denly turning to a window, faid. All tbefe things may f:dl out \ hut depend on ity all ihefe dijlurbantes "j^ill he terminated on this [pot. Returned the fame road. Saw multitudes of Gaanets. Gamiets, or Soland Geefe, on their pafiage noith- ward : they went in fmall flocks from five to fifteen in each, and continued p.'fTing for hours: it was a fiormy day -, they kept low and near the fhore ; but never pafiTed over the land, even when a bay with promontories intervened, but followed (preferving an equal diftance from fhore) the form of the bay, and then regularly doubled the Capes. I faw many parties make a fort of halt for the fake of fifliing; they foared to a great height, then darting down headlong into the fca made the water foam and M 3 fprir.g 'i<^(^ A T o u ri fprinw up with the violence of iheir defcent ; after which they purfued their route. Swans refort in O^lober to the Loughs of Hem- frigs and IVaJi^r^ and continue there till March. Abundance of I and-rails are found throughout the county. Multitudes of Sea-fowl breed in the cliffs: among others, the Lyre \ but tlie fcaf n being pad, I neither faw it, nor could unoeifcand what fpecies it was. Z-n-n-r Vr.y Wcnt alonpj a fine hard fand on the edge of 5'/«- and calUe. ^^^^^y j^^^^ q^^ ^j^^ j-^^^^^j^ ^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ l^cfshead, on the fame rock, are Sinclair and Carnego caftles ; but, as if the joint tenants, like beads of prey, bad been in fear of each other, there was between them a draw-bridge ; the firll too had an iron door, which dropped from above through grooves Hill vifible. Produce of r Qathtiefs may be called an immenfe morafs, mixed with fome fruitfull fpotsof oats and barley, mrch ccarfe grafs, and here and there fome fine, almoll all natural, there being as yet very little artificial. At this time was the hay harveft both here and about Dunrcbin : the hay on this rough land is cut with very fliort fcythes, and with a brilk and ftrong flroke. The country produces and exports great quantities of catrriealy and much whifky is diftilled from the barley : the great thinncfs of inhabitants throughout Ccdhiejs enables them to fend abroad much of its produdions,^ No wiieat had been raifed this year in the county -, and I was inform.ed that this grain is fown here in the fpring, by reafon of the wet and fury of the winters. The IN SCOTLAND. 167 The county is fuppoled to fend out, in fome Cattle. years, 2200 head of cattle -, but in bad feafons, the farmer kills and faks numbers for fale. Great numbers of fwine are reared here: they are fhort, high-backed, long-briftled, (harp, flender and long- nofed ; have long eredl ears, and moft favage io >ks, and are feen tethered in almofl- every field. The reft of the commodities of Cathnefs are butter, cheefe, tallow, hides, the oil and fkins of feals, and the feathers of geefe. Here are neither barns or granaries •, the corn is thraflied out and preferved' in the chafT" in hykes, which are ftacks in fhape of bee-hives, thatched quite round, where it will keep good for two years. Much Salmon is taken at Cajile-hill, Dunet, JVick^ Salmon. and Thurfo. The miraculous draught at the lafl place is flill talked of; not lefs than 2500 being taken at one tide, within the memory of man. At a fmall diftance from Sinclair caftle, near Staxigo creek, is a fmall herring- fifhery, the only one on the coaft : Cod and other white fifh abound here ; but the want of ports on this flormy coafl is an ob- ftacle to the eflablifhment of fifheries on this fide the country. In the month of November numbers of Seals * are Seals, taken in the vafl caverns that open into the fea and run fome hundreds of yards under ground. Their entrance is narrow, their infide lofty and fpacious. The Seal-hunters enter thefe in fmall boais with * Sometimes a large fpecies near twelve feet long has beea killed en the coaft ; and I have been informed that the fame kind a;e found on the rock ////5/r, one of the weftern ifles. M 4 torches A T O U R torches, which they light as foon as they land, and then v/ith loud fliouts alarm the animals, which tliey kill with clubs as they attempt to pafs. This is a hazardous employ ; for (liould the wind blow hard from fea, thefe adventuiers are inevitably loft *. Much lime-ftone is found in this country, which when burnt is made into a compoft with turf and tang. The tender fex (I blu{h for the Cathnejians) are the only animals of burden : they turn their patient backs to the dunghills, and receive in their kcizcs^ or baflcets, as much as their lords and maf- ters think fit to fling in with their pitchforks, and then trudge tothefields in droves of fixtyor feventy. The common people are kept here in great fervi- tude, and moft of their time is given to their Lairds, an invincible impediment to the profperity of thi^ county. Of the ten pariflies in Cathnefs, only the four that lie S. E. fpeak Erje ; all the others fpeak Erig- lijfj^ and that in greater purity than moll part of JNorth Britain. Inoculation is much pradifcd by an ingenious pliyfician (Dr. Mackenzie, of fFick) in this county, nnd alfo the Orkneys +, with great fuccefs, with- out any previous preparation. The fuccefs was equally great at Sanda-, a poor ifle, where there was no fort of fuel but what was t>ot from dried cow-dung : but hi all thefe places, tlie fniall-pox is very fatal in the natural way. Other difeafes in * For a fuller account. 'viJe Br. Zool. illujfr. 3S. t At this time a perfon was employed in the fame bufincfs >n the .S/Y//«/;d'jflandi. 2 Calhncfs I N S C O T L A N D. ' 169 Cathnefs are colds, coughs, and very frequently palfies. I came here too late * to have any benefit from the Long days, great length of days •, but from June to the middle of July, there is fcarce any night ; for even at what is called midnight the fmalkft print may be read, fo truely did Juvenal ftyle thefe people, Minima content os noEle Britanxos. On my way between Thrumjler and Btinheth, Aug. 23. again faw numbers of flocks of Ganncts keeping Gannets. due north, and the weather being very calm they flew high. It has not been obferved that they ever return this way in the fpring ; but feem to make a - circuit of the ifland,- till they again arrive at the Bafs, their only breeding- place on the eaftern coaft. On defcending a fleep hill is a romantic view of Berridak. the two bridges over the waters of Berridak and Langwall^ and their wooded glens, and of the caftle of Berridak -f, over the fea, where the Salmon- fiihers flation themfelves to obferve the approach of thofe fifh out of the ocean. After a tedious afcent up the King's road of four miles, gain the top of the Ordy defcend, and lie at Hemfdale. Re-vifit the fame places, till I pafs Dingwall. Auc. 24, Crofs \.\itConan in a boat, a very beautiful! river, ^° ^9- not remote fromCaJlle Braan. Was in this neigh- * Befides the miffing fo lingular a phaenomenon, I found that the bad weather, which begins earlier in the north, was fetting in : I would therefore recommend to any traveller, who means to take this diftant tour, to fet out from Edinburgh a month fooner than myfelf. t A Utile up the land is the ruin of Ach-cajlk. l3orhood I/O A T O U R Slr.2o]zr boi iiood informed of other fingular cudoms of the J lignlanders. On New-year's day they burn juniper before their cattle, and on the firft Monday in every quar- ter fprinkle them with urine. In fomc parts of the country is a rural facrifice, different from that before- mentioned. A crofs is cut on fome flicks, which is dipped in pottage, and the Thurfday before Eajler one of each placed over the fhecpcor, the ftable, or the cow-houie. On the I ft ot May they are carried to the hill where the rites are celebrated, all decked with wild flowers, and after the feaft: is over, re- placed over the fpots they were taken from •, and this was originally ftyleJ C!cii-d;i-Be!tein *, or the fplit branch of the fire of the rock. Thefe follies are now fcldom pradifed, and that with the utmofl fccrecy ; for the Clergy are indefatigable in difcouraging every fpecies of fuperftition. In certain places, the death of people is fuppofed to be foretold by the cries and fhrieks of Ben/hi^ or the Fairies wife, uttered along the very path where the funeral is to pafs ; and what in Wales are called corps candles, are often imagined to appear, and foretell mortality. M3r!i.-;r.e The courtlhip of the Highlander has thefe t9* cui^.ouib. markable circumftances attending it : after pri* vately obtaining the confcnt of the Fair, he formally demands her of the father. The Lover and his Friends afTemblc on a hill allotted for that purpofe in every parilh, and one of them is difpatched to * M PltrjWs intrzduaioK, &c. i66. obtain I N S C O T L A N D. 171 obtain permiffion to wait on the daughter ; if hi; is ruccefsfuU, he is again lent to invite the father and his friends to afcend the hill and partake of a whifl<y cafk, which is never forgot : the Lover ad- vances, takes his future Father-in- bw by the hand, and then plights his troth, and the Fair-one is fur- rendered up to him. During the marriage cere- mony, great care is taken that dogs do not pafs between them, and particular attention is payed to the leaving the Bridegroom's left-llioc without buckle or latchet, to prevent witches * from de- priving him, on the nuptial night, of the power of loofening ,the virgin zone. As a teft, not many years ago a fingular cuftom prevaled in the ■ivcjiern Highlands the morning after a wedding : a bafket •was faftencd Vv'ith a cord round the neck of the bridegroom by the female part of the company, who immediately filled it with ftones, till the poor man was in great danger of being (Irangled, if his bride did not take compafiion on him, and cut the cord with a knife given her to ufe at difcretion. But fuch was the tendernefs of the Caledonian fpoufcs, that never was an inftance of their negleding an immediate relief of their good man. Pafs near the abby f of Ber.ttUeu^ a large ruin ; . crofs the ferry, and again reach Jnz-ernefs, iVlake an excurfion ten miles fouth of Invernefs Aug. 30. to Moy-ball, pleafanily feated at the head cf a fmall Moy-haU. • An old opinion. G^/ztt fays that the wirches made ufe offoatls as a charm, Ut njiin. (oeundi, nifallor^ in i;ir:s telle- rent. Gefner de quad. ovj. p. 72. t Founded about 1219, by Lord Patrick B^ptt, for the monks 0* Vall^ombrefa, but 172 A T O U R but beautifull lak,e of the fame name, full of Trour, and Cbar^ called in the Erfe^ 'Tnriar-kimch, and in the Scotch, Red Weems. This water is about two miles and a half long, and half a mile broad, adorned with two or three ifles prettily wooded. Each fide is bounded by hills cloathed at the bot- tom with trees; and in front, at the diftance of thirty miles, is the great mountain of Karn Goran, patched with fnow. This place is called Stafach na gaily or the thrc- Hiold of the Highlands, being a very natural and ftrongly marked entrance from the north. This tianChattan. js the feat of the Clan Chat t an, o^ the W-IntcJIjcs, once, a powerfuU people : in the year 1715, fifteen hundred took the field •, but in 1745* fcarce half that number : like another Ahfalom, their fair mif- trefs was in that year fuppofed to have ilolen their hearts from her Z-^/r^ their chieftain : but the feve- reft loyalift muft admit fome extenuation of their error, in yielding to the infinuations of fo charming a feducer. Boethius relates, that in his time hrccriufs was greatly frequented by merchants from Germany, who purchafed here the furs of feveral forts of wild beafls* ; and that wild horfes were found in great abundance in its neighborhood : that the country yielded a great deal of wheat and other corn, and • ^d NcfHe lacui longi quatuor et nj'tginti pnffi/um m'tUia, Inti dncdecim later a, propter ingentia tiemora fcrarutn ingens (opia rji rertorum, equorum itidojnilcrum, caprcohrum et eju/tr.odi aninian- * iium magna lii : ad hccc tnarttriUtS, Foiihi/r, ut 'vulgo 'vocaiitur, I'ulpcsy viuJicUte, Fihri, Lulrii que tncomparabili nnmero''quornm lergcrn extern gentes ad luxum immenjo pretio coemunt. tjcot. Regni Defer, ix. Hift. Scot. x,\x. quantities I N 5 C O T L A N D. 173 quantities of nuts and apples. At prefent. there is a trade in the flvins of Deer, Roes, and other beads, v.'hich the Highlanders bring down to the fairs. There happened to be one at this time ; the com- modities were flcins, various neceflaries brought in by the Pedlars, coarfe country cloths, cheefe, but- ter and meal ; the laft in goat-flcin bags ; the but- ter lapped in cavvls, or leaves of the broad aha or tang; and great quantities of birch wood and hazel cut into lengths for carts*, ccc. which had been floated down the river from Loiigb-Nefs. The fair was a very agreeable circumftance, and Highland afforded a moft fmguLir groupe of Highlanders in all their motly dreffes. Their brechan^ or plaid, confifts of twelve or thirteen yards of a narrow ftuff, wrapt round the middle, and reaches to the knees : is often fallened round the middle with a belt, and is then called hrechan-feal\ but in cold weather, is large enough to wrap round the whole body from head to feet -, and this often is their only cover, not only within doors, but on the open hills during the whole night. It is frequently faftened on the fhoulders with a pin often of filver and before with a brotche (like the fihula of the Romans), which is fometimes of filver, and both large and expenfive ; the old ones have very fre- quently mottos. The (lockings are fliort, and are tied below the knee. The cuoranen is a fort of laced Ihoe made of a fkin with the hairy fide out. but now feldom worn. The truiJJj were worn by the gentry, and were breeches and (lockings made of one piece, I'he A T O U R The fllehi^i i. e. little plaid, alfo called kelt, is a fort of fhorc petticoat reaching only to the knees, and is a modern fubftiturc for the lower part of the plaid, being found to be lefs cumbcr- fomc, cfpccially in time of aiflion, when the High- lenders uled to tuck their hcc/jan into their girdle. ALmoIl all have a great pouch of badger and other fkins, with tafiels dangling before. In this they keep their tobacco and money. Their antient arms were the Lcchaber ax, now ufed by none but the town-guard o^ Edinburgh -y a tremendous weapon, better to be exprefled by a figure than words *. ' The broad-fword and target ; with the laft they covered themfclvcs, with the firft reached their enemy at a great diftance. Thefe were their antienc Vv'eapons, as appears by -f Tacitus \ but fince the difarming adl, are fcarcely to be met with ; partly owing to that, partly to the fpirit of induftry now rifing among them, the Highlanders in a few years T\'ill fcarce know the ufe of any weapon. Bows and arrows v;ere ufed in war as late as the middle of the laft Century, as I find in a manufcripc life of Sir Eijoin Cameron. The dirk was a fort of dagger ftuck in the belt. I frequently faw this weapon in the fhambles of Invernefsy converted into a butcher's knife, being, like Hudibras's dagger, A fervlceable dudgeon. Either for fighting or for drudging. • Vide tab. xii. f Sii/iul conjlnntia, fvnul arte Britanni ingentilui gladiis ft brenjibus cetris, mijjilia iwjlrorum vitare njel (xcutcre. Vita Agri* colx. c. 36. The IN SCOTLAND. 175 The dirk was a weapon ufed by the antient Cak- donians, for Dio Cajfius, in his account of the expe- dition of Sevsrus, mentions it under the name of Hy^&pihov *, Pu^io or Utile Dagger. The Matiucajhlafa, or arm-pit dagger, was worn there ready to be ufed on coming to clofe quarters. Thefe, with a piftol ftuck. in the girdle, completely armed the Highlander -f. It will be fit to mention here the method the Fiery-crofi. Chieftains took formerly to aflemble the clans for any military expedition. In every clan there is a known place of rendezvous, ftyled Cam a whiiiy to which they muft refort on this fignal. A perfon is fcnt out full fpeed with a pole burnt at one end and bloody at the other, and with a crofs at the top, which is called CrcJJj-tairiet the crofs of (hame j, or the Hery crofs •, the firit from the difgrace they would undergo if they declined appearing ; the fe- cond from the penalty of having fire and fword carried thro* their country, in cafe of refufal. The • Xiphil. epit. Dionis. f Major y who wrote about the year 151 3, thiw defcrlbes their arms : Arcum et faghtas, latijjimuni enfctn cum par^vo hal^ herto, pugionem gro/fum ex /oh uno latere fcindentem, fed acutif- ftmutn Jub zona femper ferunt, '■tempore belli loricam ex loris fcrreb per totum corpus itiduunt. Lib. 1. c. viii. X This ci:(lom was common to the northern Parts c^ Europe with fome flight variation, as appears from Olaus Magnus, p. 146, who dcfcribes it thus, Bacculus tripalmnris, agilioris ju- I'enis curfu precipiti, ad ilium ^jel ilium pagum /lU milium kujuf- viodi ediSio defer endtis committitur, ut 3, 4. vel 8 die unus, duo 'vel tresf aut njiritim cmnes 'vel finguli ab anm trilufti, xum armis et exfetijis lo 'vcl 20 dierum fub pcena ccmhujiionis dome* rum (quo ufio baculo) •vel fufpenjionis Patroni, aut omnium (quce fune allegata f.gnatur) in tali ripe, i-d campo, aut 'valle comparere teyiear.tur Ji'.hito, caufam vocaticms, atque ordinem exe^ eulionii Pra;fecti/? ovincialis, quid fieri iitieat audituri. filft lyS /V T O U R firO: bearer delivers it to the next perfon he meets, he runnino; full fpeed to the third, and lb on. In the late rebellion, it was fent by fome unknown difaffeded hand thro' the coumy of Breadalhnet and pafTed through a tra6l of thirty-two miles in three hours, but without effe6t. Women's The women's drels is the kircb, or a white piece ^^^* of linnen, pinned over the foreheads of thofe that are married, and round the hind part of the head, falling behind over their necks. The fingle women wear only a ribband round their head, which they call a fnood. The td/iac^ or plaid, hangs over their Ihoulders, and is faftened before with a brotche ; but in bad weather is drawn over their heads : I have alfo obferved during divine fervice, that they keep drawing it forward in proportion as thqir at- tention increafes -, infomuch as to conceal at laft: their whole face, as if it v/as to exclude every ex- ternal object that might interrupt their devotion. In the county of Breadalbane, many wear, when in high drefs, a great pleated {locking of an enormous length, called ojfan. In other refpefts, their drefs refembles that of women of the fame rank in Eng- land: but their condition is very different, being little better than (laves to our fex. Character of xhe mai^Iiers of the native Highlanders may landers! j^ftl/ t>c cxprefTed in thefe words : ijidgleiit to a high degree, iinlefs roufed to war, or to any ani- mating amufement •, or I may fay, from experience, to lend any difinterefled afTillance to the diftreffed traveller, either in diredling him on his way, or af- fording their aid in paffing the dangerous torrents of N S C O T L A N D; 177 of the Highlands: hofpitable to the highefi: degree, and full of generofity : are much affedled with the civility of ftrangers, and have in themfelves a natu- ral politenefs and addrefs, which often flows from the meanefl when left expefted. Thro' my whole tour I never met with a angle inftance of national reflection ! their forbearance proves them: to be fu- perior to the meannefs of retaliation : I fear they pity us -, but I hope not indifcrimihately. Are excef- lively inc^uifitive afcer your buflnefs, your name, and other particulars of little conkquence to them: moft curious after the politicks of the v/orld, and v/hen they can procure an old nesvs-paper, will liften to it with all the ^y idiiy oi Shckefpear's black- fmith. Have much pride, and confequently are impatient of affronts, and revcngefull of injuries. Are decent in their general behaviour; inclined to fuperfiition, yet attentive to the duties of religion, and are capable of giving a moft diftinft account of the principles of their faith. But in many parts of the Highlands, their charafler begi^is to be more faintly marked •, they mix more with the world, and become daily lefs attached to their chiefs : the clans begin to difperfe themfelves through different parts of the country, finding that their induftry and good condudt aflbrd them better prote«ftion (fince the due execution of the lav;s) than any their chief- tain can afford % and the chieftain tafting the fweets of advanced rents, and the benefits of induftry, difmifl^es from his table the crowds of retainers, the former inftruments of his opprefnon and freak ilh tyranny. K. Moft 179 A T O U R inj.laPiJ Moil of the antient fports of the Highlanders, '^^^^'" fuch as archery, hunting, fowling and fifhing, are now difufed : thofe retained are, throwing the putting-^onc, or ftone of Jlrength*, as they call it, which occafions an emulation who can throw a weighty one the fartheft. Throwing the penny- ftone, which anfwers to our coits. Th^Jhinty, or the ftriking a ball of wood or of hair : this game is played between two parties in a large plain, and furnilhed with clubs-, which-ever fide Itrikes it firft to their own goal wins the match. The amufements by their fire-fides were, the telling of tales, the wildeft and moft extravagant imaginable : mufick was another : in former times, the harp was the favorite inftrument, covered with leather and ftrung with wire -f, but at prefent is Bagpipes. quite loft. Bagpipes are fuppofed to have been introduced by the Dnnes -, the oldeft are played with the mouth, the loudeft and moft ear-piercing of any wind mufick ; the other, played with the fingers only, are of Irijh origin : the firft fuited the genius of this warlike people, rouzed their courage to battle, alarmed them when fecure, and colleded them when fcattered. This inftrument is become fcarce fince the abolition of the power of the chieftains, and the more ixiduftrious turn of the common people^ Vocal mufick was much in vogue amongft them, and their fongs were chiefly in praife of their antient • Cloch Heart. f Major fays, Pro mujicis in/Irumtntis et mujleo concentUf Lyra. Jj,Jue/lres utuntur, cujus chordas ex are, tt 7ion tx animaltum sk- tejiinii /aciunt, in qua dukijp.mi modulantur, heroes. IN SCOTLAND. 179I heroes. I was told that they dill have fragments of the ftory of Fingal and others, which they carrol as they go along •, theie vocal traditions are the foundation of the works of OJJian. Leave Invernefs, and continue my journey weft Aug, 31, for fome time by the river-fide : have a fine view of the plain, the Tommin, the town and the dillanc hills. After a ride of about fix miles reached Lough-Nefs *, and enjoyed along its banks a molt romantic and beautiful! Icenery, generally in woods of birch, or hazel, mixed with a few holly, vv'hite- thorn, afpin, adi and oak, but open enough in all parts to admit a fight of the water. Sometimes the road was ftrait for a confiderable diftance, and re- fembled a fine and regular avenue ; in others it wound about the fides of the hills which over- hung the lake : the road was frequently cut thro' the rock, which on one fide formed a folid wall i on the other, a fteep precipice. In many parts we were immerfed in woods ; in others, they opened and gave a view of the fiJes and tops of the vaft mountains foaring above: fome of thefe were naked, but in general covered with wood, except on the meer precipices, or where the grey rocks denied vegetation, or where the heath, now glowing with purple bloflbms, covered the furface. The form of thefe hills was very various and irregular, either broken into frequent precipices, or towering into rounded fummits cloathed with trees ; but not fo clofe but to admit a fight of the fky between them, *This beautiful! lake has a great refcmblance to fome parts of the lake <^ Lncertif, efpecially towards theealt end. N 2 Thus, i3o A r O U R Thus, for many miles, there was no polTibility o^ cultivation -, yet this tradt was occupied by dimi- nutive cattle, by Sheep, or by Goats : the laft were pied, and lived mod luxurioufly on the tender branches of the trees. The wild animals that pof- fefled this pidlurefque fcene were Stags and Roes, black game, and Grous -, and on the fummits, white Hares and Ptarmigans. Foxes are fo nume- rous and voracious that the farmers are fometimes forced to houfe their Sheep, as is done in France^ for fear of the Wolves *. The north fide oi Lough -Nefs is far lefs beau- tifull than the fouth. In general, the hills are lefs high, but very deep ; in a very few places covered with brulh-wood, but in general very naked, from the Aiding of the ftrata down their Hoping fides, Caftle About the middle is Caftle Urqhtiart, a fortrefs Ur^huan, founded on a rock projecting into the lake, and was faid to have beei* the Teat of the once powerful! Cummins. Near it is the broadeft part of the Lough, occafioned by a bay near the caftle. Above is Glen-Morijlon^ and eaft of that Straith- Clas, or the Chifokis country ; in both of which ' * It IS to me matter of furprlze tliat no mention is made, in the Poems oi Ojjian, of our greater hearts of prey, which muft have abounded in his days ; for the Wolf wai a pert to the coun> try fo late as the reign of Queen EUzabcthy and the Bear ex- iltcd there at Icll Lill the year 1057, wlien ^Gordon, for killing a fierce Bear, was dircdcd by King Malcolm III. to carry three Dears heads in his banner. Other native animals arc cften mcniioncd in fevcral parts of the work ; and in the five little poems on night, compofitions of as many Bards, every modern Bniijh beart of chace ib enumerated, the howling Dog and howling Fox defcribtd ; yet the howling Wolf omitted, %H-hich would have made the Bards night much more hideous. are I N S C O T L A N D. i8i are forefts of pines, where that rare bird the Cock of the Wood is ftill to be met with. At Clerj" Morijton is a manufaftnre of linnen, where forty girls at a time are taught for three months to fping and then another forty taken in : there are befides fix looms, and all fupported out of the forfeited lands. Above is the great mountain Meal Fourvounkh^ the firfl land failors make from the eall fea -, on the top is a lake faid to be lOO fathoms deep. I was informed that in that neighborhood- are glens and cafcades of furprifing beauty, but my time did not permit me to vifit them. Dined at a poor inn near the Generars Huty or the place where General IVnde refided when he in- fpecled the great work of the roads, and gave one rare example of making the foldiery ufefull in time of peace. Near is a fine glen covered at the bot- tom with wood, through v/hich runs a torrent rifing fouthward. The country alfo is prettily varied v/ith woods and corn-fields. About a mile farther is the fall of Fyers, a vaft pall of A catara6t, in a darkfome glen of a ftupendous depth; the water darts far beneath the top thro' a narrow gap between two rocks, then precipitates above forty feet lower into the bottom of the chafm, and the foam, like a great cloud of fmoke, ri(es and fills the air. The fides of this glen are vaft pre- cipices mixed with trees over-hanging the water, through which, after a fhort fpace, the waters dif- charge themfelves into the lake. About half a mile fouth of the firfl fall is ano- N 3 ther ers. :iSz A TOUR ther pafTing through a narrow chafm, whofe fides it ha^ undermined for a confiderable way : over the gap is a true Alp'me bridge of the bodies of trees covered with fods, froni whofe middle is an awe- full view of the water roaring beneath. At the fall of Fyers the road quits the fide of the lake, and is carried for fome fpace through a fmall vale on the fide of the river Fyers, where is a mix- ture of fmall plains of corn and rocky hills. Then fucceeds a long and dreary moor, a tedious afcent up the mountain See-ivhinniny or Cummitis Seat, whofe fummit is of a great height and very craggy.- Defcend a fteep road, leave on the right Lough- ^p.arf^ a fmall irregular piece of water, decked with little wooded ifles, and abounding with Char. After a fecond fteep defcent, reach VoriAugufius. fort Jugujlus *, a fmall fortrefs, feated on a plain at the head o( Lough -Nefs^ between the rivers 'Taarf and Oich \ the lafl is confiderable, and has over it a bridge of three arches. The fort confifts of four bafi;ions ; within is the Governor's houfe, and barracks for 400 men : it was taken by the Rebels in 1746, who immediately dcferted it, after dcmolifhing as much as they could. l»Hgh-h'f/s. Lough-Nefs is twenty-two miles in length ; the breadth from one to two miles, except near Caftlc Urqhuarfy where it fwells out to three. The depth is very great •, oppofite the rock called the Horfe- JhoCy near the weft end, it lias been found to be • Its Erfe name Is Kil-ivhinnin, or the burial-place of the Cummins. Jt lies on the road to the Iflc of Sire, which is about 5 2 niilcs ofF ; but on the whole way there is not a place fit for the reception of man or horfe. J 40 I N S G O T L A N D. 1S3 140 fathoms. From an eminence near the fort is a full view of its whole extent, for it is perfedlly ftrair, running from eafl to weft, with a point to the fouth. The boundary from the fall of Fyers is very fteep and rocky, which obliged General fF^de to make that detour from its banks, partly on ac- count of the expence in cutting through fo much folid rock, partly through an apprehenfion that in cafe of a rebellion the troops might be deftroyed in their march, by the tumbling down of flones by the enemy from above : befides this, a prodigious arch muft have been flung over the Glen of Fyers. This lake, by reafon of its great depth, never Never freezes freezes, and during cold weather a violent fteam fifes from it as from a furnace. Ice brought from other parts, and put into Lough-Nefs, inftantly thaws ; but no water freezes fooner than that of the lake when brought into a houfe. Its water isefteemed very falubrious •, fo that people come or fend thirty miles for it : old Lord Lo'uat in particular made conftant ufe of it. But it is certain, whether it be owing to the water, or to the air of that neighbor- hood, that for feven years the garrifon of Fort ^«- gujlus had not loft a fingle man. The fifti of this lake are Salmon, which are in ieafon from Chrijimas to AUdfummer, Trouts of about 2 lb. weight. Pikes and Eels. During win- ter it is frequented by Swans and other wild fowls. The greateft rife of water in Lougb-Nefs is four- teen feet. The lakes from whence it receives its fupplies are Lough-Oich^ Lough-Garrie-> and Lough- ^icb. There is but very little navigation on it ; N 4 the i84 A T O U R the only vcflel is a gaily belonging to the fort, to hrfiig the flores from tlie eafl end, the river Nefi being too fhallovv for navigation. Its agitations jc js violently agitated by the winds, and at times the waves are quite mountainous. November ill, 1 755, at the fame time as the earthquake at Lifborti thefe waters were afrccfled in a very extraordinary manner : they rofe and flowed up the lake from eaft to weft with vaft impetuofity, and were carried above 200 yards up the river Oich, breaking on its banks in a wave near three feet high -, then continued ebbing and flowing for the fpace of an hour : but at eleven o'clock a wave greater than any of the reft came up the river, broke on the north fide, and overflowed the bank for the extent of 30 feet. A boat near the GerieraPs Hut, loaden with brufli-wood, was thrice driven alhore, and twice carried back again ; but the laft time, the rudder was broken, the wood forced out, and the boat filled with water and left on Ihore. At the fame time, a little ifle, in a fmall lough in Badeuochy was totally reverfed and flung on the beach. But. at both thefe places no agitation was felt on land. cjp^ ^ Rode to the caftle oiTor-down, a rock two miles CaftleofT<;r- ^^^ft of Fort Au^ujlus : on the fummit is an antient **■"''*• fortrefs. The face of this rock is a precipice i on the accefllble fide is a ftrong dyke of loofe ftones ; above that a ditch, and a little higher a terrafs fup- ported by ftones : on the top a fmall oval area, hollow in the middle: round this area, for the depth of near twelve feet, are a quantity of ftones iliangcly cemented with almoft vitrified matter, arid I N S C O T L A N D. 1E5 in fome places quite turned into black fcoria : the ftones were generally granite mixed with a few grit- ftones of a kind not found nearer the place than 40 mile?. Whether this was the antient fitc of fome forge, or whether the ftones which form this for- trefs * had been colledled from the ftrata of fome Vulcano, (for the veftiges of fuch are faid to have been found in the Highlands) I Tubmit to farther enquiry. From this rock is a view of Ben-ki^ a vafl craggy mountain above GIen-Gar?'ie's country. Towards the fouth is the high mountain Coryarich : the afcent from this fide is nine miles, but on the other the de- fcent into Badenoch is very rapid, and not above one, the road being, for the eafe of the traveller, cut in a zigzag faihion. People often perifh on the fummit of this hill, which is frequently vifited dur- ing winter with dreadfull ftorms of fnow. After a {hort ride weftward along the plain, reach Sipt. 2. Lough-Oich, a narrow lake ; the fides prettily in- dented, and the water adorned with fmall wooded ifles. On the (hore is Gkn-Garrie^ the feat of Mr. Okn-Garm, McDonald, almoft furrounded with wood, and not far diftant is the ruin of the old caftle. This lake is about four miles long *, the road on the fouth fide is excellent, and often carried through very pleafant woods. After a fmall interval arrive on the banks of l^ough'Lochy^ a fine piece of water, fourteen miles Lcugh-Uchy, long, and from one to two broad. The diftant • r was informed that at^ri/aig is an old caftle formed of the fame materials, mountains iS^ A T O U R mountains on the north were of an immenfe height ; thole on the fouth had the appearance of tine Hicep- •walks. The road is continued on the fide of the lake about eight miles. On the oppofite Ihore was Cameron of Achnacarric^ once the feat of Cameron of Lochiel, Lochid. but burnt in 1746. He was efleemed by all par- ties the honefteft and mod fenfible man of any that embarked in the pernicious and abfurd attempt of that and the preceding year, and was a melancholy inftance of a fine underftanding and a well-intend- / ing heart, over-powered by the unhappy preju- dices of education. By his influence he prevented the Rebels from committing feveral excefiies, and even faved the city of Glafgow from being plun- dered, when their army returned out of England^ irritated with their difappointment, and enraged ^ . at the loyalty that city had fliewn.^Thc Preten- der came to him as foon as ever he landed. Lochiel feeing him arrive in fo wild a manner and fo un- fupported, entreated him to defift from an enter- prize from which nothing but certain ruin could refult to him and his partizans. The Adven- turer grew warm, and reproached Lochiel with a breach of promife. This affefled him fo deeply, that he inftanriy went and took a tender and moving leave of his la^ly and family, imagining he was on the point of parting with them for ever. The in- come of his eftate was at that time, as I was told, not above 700I. fer ann. yet he brought fourteen hundred men into the fitld. The waters of this lake form the river Lochy^ and difcharge themfelves into the weftern fea, as 4 thof« I N S C O T L A N D. 187 thofe o^Lougb-Oich do through Lough-Nefs into the eailern. About the beginning of this lake enter Lochaber * ; ftop at Low-bridge, a poor houfe-, tra- Lochaher, vcl over a black moor for fome miles ; fee abun- dance of cattle, but fcarce any corn. Crofs High-bridge, a fine bridge of three arches flung over the torrent Specn, founded on rocks ; two of t the arches are 95 feet high. This bridge was built by General Wade, in order to form a communica- tion with the country. Thefe publick works were at firft very difagreeable to the old Chieftains, and leflened their influence greatly ; for by admitting flrangers among them their clans were taught that the Lairds were not the firfl: of men. But they had ' another reafon much more folid; Lochaber had been a den of thieves ; and as long as they had their waters, their torrents and their bogs, in a ftate of nature, they made their excurfions, could plunder and retreat with their booty in full fecurity. So weak were the laws in many parts oi North Britain, till after the late rebellion, that no ftop could be put to this infamous pradice. A contribution, called the Black-maiU was raifed by feveral of thefe Blad-maiL plundering chieftains over avafl: extent of country : whoever payed it had their cattle enfured, but thofe who dared to refufe were furc to fufi^er. Many of thefe free-booters were wont to infert an article, by which they were to be releafed from their agree- ment, in cafe of any civil commotion : thus, at the breaking out of the laft rebellion, a IVVGregor f , * So called from a lake not far from Fort William, near whofe banks Banqiio was faid to have been murthered. ■(■ Who affumed the name of Graham, who iSS A TOUR who had with the (Iridefl: honor (till that event) prefcrved his friends cattle, immediately fent them word, that from that time they were out of his proteftion, and muft now take care of themfelves. Barrifdale was another of this clafs, chief of a band of robbers, who fpread terror over the whole coun- try: but the Highlanders at that time efteemed the open theft of cattle, or the making a fpreith (as they called it) by no means di(honorable ; and the young men confidered it as a piece of gallantry, by which they recommended themfelves to their miftrefles. On the other fide there was often as much bravery in the purfuers; for frequent battles enfued, and much blood has been fpilt on thofe occafions. They alfo (hevved great dexterity in tracing the robbers, not only through the boggy land, but over the firmeft ground, and even over places where other cattle had pafled, knowing well how to diflinguilh the fteps of thofe that were wan- dering about from thofe that were driven haftily away by the Free-booters. From the road had a diflaiit view of the moun- tains of Arifaigi beyond which were Moydart^ Kin- loch, &c. At the end of Lough Shiel the Pretender firfl fet up his ftandard in the wildefl: place that imagination can frame : and in this fequeftered fpot amidft antient prejudices, and prevaling ig- norance of the blefTings of our happy conftitution, the flrength of the rebellion lay. Pafs by the fide of the river Lochy^ now confi- Inverlochy. dtrablc. Scc hvcrkchy Cajlle with four large round towers. I N S C O T L A N D. i8^ towers *, which, by the mode of building, fcems to have been the work of the Englijh., in the time of Edward 1. who laid large fines on the Scotch Barons for the purpofe of erefting new caftles. Reach Fort IFiiliar/i, built in King IVilUam's reign ; as was a fmall town near it, called Mary- ioroughi in honor of his Queen ; but prior to that, had been a fmall fortrefs, creeled by General Monky with whofe people the famous Sir Ewen Ca- tmron f had numerous contefls. The prefent fort is a triangle, has two baftions, and is capable of admitting a garrifon of eight hundred men. It was well defended againft the Rebels in 1746, who raifed the fiege with much difgrace. The fort lies on a narrow arm of the fea, called Lcch-yelly which extends fome miles higher up the country, making a bend to the north, and extends likewife weftward towards the ifle of Mull, near twenty-four ScotcJs miles. This fort«on the weft, and Fort Augujius in the centre, and Fort George on the cafl, form what is called the chain, from fea to fea. This fpace is The Chain, called Glen-more, or the great Glen, which, includ- ing water and land, is almofl: a level of feventy * The largeft is called Cummin's tower. Thefe towers (6 greatly refemble thofe built by the fame monarch in Nor(/j Wales, that I fcarce hefitate to attribute this caftle to him. By feveral accounts it appears that there had been a caftle on the fame fpot, built nnany centuries prior to this ruin ; and it is alfo alTerted, that the league, between Charkmagne and Achaius^ King of Scotland, was figned by the latter in it. t Who is faid to have killed the laft Wolf in Scotland^ about the year 16S0. miles. 15<J A T O U R miles. There is, in fafl, but little land, but what is divided by firth, lough, or river -, except the two miles which lie between Lough Oicb and Lough Lochy. By means of Fort George^ all entrance up the Firth towards Invernefs is prevented. Fort Au- gujlus curbed the inhabitants midway, and Fort fFilliam is a check to any attempts on the weft. Detachments are made from all thefe garrifons to Invernefs y Bernera barracks oppofite to the IHc of Skie, and Caflle Ducirt in the Ifle oi Mull f. Other fmall parties are alfo fcattered in huts throughout the country, to prevent the ftealing of cattle. Fort William is furrounded by vaft mountains, which occafion almoft perpetual rain : the loftieft Bencvtjb, are on the fouth fide •, Benevijh foars above the reft, and ends, as I was told, in a point, (at this time concealed in mift) whofe height from the fea is faid to be 1450 yards. As an antient Briton, I lament the difgrace of Snoicdon ; once efteemed the higheft hill in the ifland, but now muft yield the palm to a Caledonian mountain. But I have my doubts whe- ther this might not be rivaled, or perhaps furpaflcd by others in the fame country ; for example, Ben y hourd^, a central hill, from whence to the fea there is a continued and rapid dcfcent of feventy miles, as may be feen by the violent courfe of the Dee to Aberdeen. But their height has not yet been taken, which to be done fairly muft be from the fea. ■\ I was informed that coal has been lately difcovered in this ifland. What advantage may not this prove, in eftablifh- ments of manufadures, in a country juft rouzed from the kp of indolence ! Benevijhy I N S C O T L A N D. t^i BeneviJIji as well as many others, harbour fnow throughout the year. The bad weather which reigned during my ftay in thefe parts prevented me from vifiting the cele- brated parallel roads in Glen-Roy, As I am unable to fatisfy the curiofity of the Reader from my own obfervation, I (hall deliver in the Appendix * the informations I could colled: relating to thefe amaz- ing works. 'The great produce of Lochaher is cattle : that Trade of diftrifl alone fends out annually 30CO head j but if Lochaher, a portion of Invernefsjhire is included, of which this j properly is part, the number is 10,000. There are : alfo a few horfes bred here, and a very few fheep; i but of late feveral have been imported. Scarce / any arable land, for the excefllve wet which reigns'"^ here almofl totally prevents the growth of corn, and what little there is fit for tillage fets at ten Ihillings an acre. The inhabitants of this diftrift are therefore obliged, for their fupport, to import fix thoufand bolls of oatmeal annually/ which coft about 4000I. the rencs are about 3000!. per ami, the return for their cattle is about 7500I. the horfes may produce fome trifle: ; fo that the tenants mufl content themfelves with a very fcanty fubfiftence, without the profpeft of faving the left againft un- forefeen accidents. The rage of raifino rents has reached this diftant country : in England there may be reafon for it, (in a certain degree) where the value of lands is encreafed by acceflion of com- merce, and by the rife of the price of provifions ; • //■*. III. but 192 A T O U R but here (contrary to all policy) the g;reat men b;- gin at the wrong end, with fqiieezing the bag, before they have helped the poor tenant to fill it, by the introdudlion of manufadtures. In many of the ifles this already (hews its unhappy efFeft, and begins to depopulate the country, for numbers of families have been obliged to give up the ilrong attachment the Scots in general have for their coun- try, and to exchange it for the wilds of jdmerica. The houfes of the peafants in Lochaber are the mod wretched that can be imagined -, framed of upright poles, which are wattled; the roof is formed of boughs like a wig'iuam, and the whole is covered with fods •, fo that in this moid climate their cottages have a perpetual and much finer verdure than the reft of the country. Salmons are taken in thefe parts as late as May ; about s<^ tuns are caught in the feafon. Thefe fiOi never appear fo early on this coaft as on the eaftern. Phinocs are taken here in great numbers, 1500 having been taken at a draught. They come in Aii^ujl and difappear in November. They are about a foot long, their color grey fpottcd with black, their fleQi red ; rife eagerly to a fly. The fifliermen fuppofe them to be the young of what they call a great Trout, weighing 30 lb. which I fuppofe is the Grey *. • . Sept. 4. _ Left Fori TVilliamy and proceeded fouth along \ the military road on the fide of a hill, an awcfuU height above Loch-Leven f, a branch of the fea, fo * Br. Zool. III. 248. f The country people have a moll fuperftitious defire of being buried in the little iflc of Mfl«, in this Lough. narrow I N S C O T L A N D. 193 narrow as to have only the appearance of a river, bounded on both fides with vaft mountains, among whofe winding bottoms the tide rolled in with fo- lemn majefty. The fcenery begins to grov/ very romantic ; on the weft fide are fome woods of birch and pines : the hills are very lofty, many of them taper to a point, and my old friend, the lare worthy Bifliop Poccck, compared the fhape of one to mount Tabor. 'Beneath them is Glen-Co, infamous for the Gkn-Qd maffacre of its inhabitants in 1691, and celebrated for having (as fome afiert) given birth to OJlan ; towards the north is Morvan., the country of his hero Fingal.^, Leave on the left a vaft cataraft, precipitating itfelf in a great foaming fheet between two lofty perpendicular rocks, with trees growing out of the fifiures, forming a large ftream, called the water of Boan. Breakfaft at the little village of Kinloch-Leven on Kinkd-Le^ moft excellent minced flag, theonly form I thought '^^'^' that animal good in. Near this village is a fingle farm fourteen miles long, which lets for only 35I. per ann. and from the nature of the foil, perhaps not very cheap. Saw here a ^ern^ a fort of portable mill, made a Quern* of two {tones about two feet broad, thin at the edges, and a little thicker in the middle. Li the centre of the upper (tone is a hole to pour in the corn, and a peg by way of handle. The whole is placed on a cloth •, the grinder pours the corn into the hole with one hand, and with the other turns round the upper (tone with a very rapid motion, O while 194 A T O U R wliilc the meal runs out at the fides on the cloth. This is rather prelerved as a curiofity, being much out of ufe at prefent. Such are fuppofcd to be the fame with what are common among the McorSt being the fimple fubflitute of a mill. Immediately after leaving Kitiloch-Levcn the mountains fear to a far greater height than before ; , the fides are covered with wood, and the bottoms of the glens filled with torrents that roar amidll the loofe ftones. After a ride of two miles begin The Hack to afcend the black mountain, in Argykfiire, on a mountatn. ^^^^ road, which continues about three miles al- mofl: to the fummit, and is certainly the highefl: publick road in Great Britain, On the other fide the defcent is fcarce a mile, but is very rapid down a zigzag way. Reach the King's houfe, feated in a plain: it was built for the accommodation of His Majefty's troops, in their march through this defo- late country, but is in a manner unfurniflied. Pafs near Lot'gh-T'ulla, a long narrow piece of water, with a fmall pine-wood on its fide. A few weather-beaten pines and birch appear fcattered up and dov/n, and in all the bogs great numbers of roots» that evince the foreft that covered the coun- try within this half century, Thefe were the lafl: pines which I faw growing fpontaneouny in North Pine forcfls. Britain. Hiht pine-forefls are become very rare: I can enumerate only thofe on the banks of Lough- Raynach, at Invercauld, and Brae mar ; at Coygach and Dirry-Mojiach : the firfl: in Straith- navern, the lafl in Sutherland. Thofe about Lough- Loyn^ Gkn'MorijloUi and Straith-Clas ; a fmall one near I N S C O T L A N D. 19^ near Lcugh-GarriCy another near Loiigh-Arkig, and a few fcattered trees above Kinloch- Leven^ all in Invernefsjhire •, and 1 was alfo informed that there are very confiderable woods about Cajlle Grant^ I faw only one fpecies of Pine in thofe I vifited i nor could I learn whether there was any other than what is vulgarly called the Scotch Fivy whofe fynonyms are thefe : Pinus fyhejiris foliis hreuihus gl/iucis, corns parvh albentibiis. Raii hift. PI. 1401. fyn. ftirp. Br. 442. Pinus Jylveftris. Gerard's herb. 1356. Lin. fp. PI. 141 8. Flora Angl. 361. Fin d'Eccfe, ou de Ge7ieve. Du Hamel Traits des Arbres. II. 125. No. 5. Fyrre, Strom. Sondmor. 12. Mofl of this long day's journey from the black mountain was truly melancholy, almoft one conti- nued fcene of dufky moors, without arable land, trees, houfes, or living creature, for numbers of miles. The roads are excellent ; but from Fort JFilliam to Kinloch-Leven^ very injudicioully planned, often carried far about, and often fo fteep as to be fcarce fiirmountable ; whereas had the engineer followed the track ufed by the inhabitants, thofe inconve-* niences would have been avoided. Thefe roads, by rendering the highlands ac-CefTi- Military ble, contributed much to their pfefent improvement, '^°^^^' and were owing to the induftry of our foldiery i O 2 the/ 196 A TOUR they were begun in 1723 *, under the direflions of Gen. Wade^ who, like another HannibaU forced his way through rocks fuppofed to have been uncon- querable: many of them hang over the mighty lakes of the country, and formerly afforded no other road to the natives than the paths of (heep or goats,where even the Highlander crawled with difficulty, and kept himfelf from tumbling into the far fubjacent water by clinging to the plants and bufhes of the rock. Many of thefe rocks were too hard to yield to the pick-ax, and the miner was obliged to fub- due their obftinacy with gunpowder, and often in places where nature had denied him footing, and where he was forced to begin his labors, fufpended from above by ropes on the face of the horrible precipice. The bogs and moors had likewife their difficulties to overcome ; but all were at length con- ftrained to yield to the perfeverence of our troops. r\r\ fome places I obferved, that, after the manner of the Romans, they left engraven on the rocks tlie names or the regiment each party belonged to, who ^,^ were employed in thele v/orks ; nor were they lefs ^*^ , worthy of being immortalized than ihc Fexillafio's V^ of the Roman legions j for civilization was the con- fequence of the labors of both. Thele roads begin ^iDunkeld-t are carried on thro* the noted pafs of Ktlltcrankie^ by Blair, to Dalna^ cardoch, Balwhinie, and over the Coryarich, to Fort Jugttjtus. A branch extends from thence eaftward to Inverr,efsy and another weft ward, over High- bridge, to Fort JVilliam. I'rom the lad, by Kinloch- • Vide /. 84. I I N S C O T L A N D. 197 Leven, over the Block Mountain-, by the King's houfe, to Teindrum^ and from thence, by Glen-urqhie., to Inveraray^ and fo along the beautiful! boundaries of Lough-Lomond^ to its extremity. Another road begins near Crieff pafTes by Aber- feldy, crofTes the Tay at Tay-bridge, and unites with the other road at Dalnacardoch ; and from Dal- whinie a branch pafles through Badenoch to Inver- nefs, Thefe are the principal military roads; but there may be many others I may have over looked. Rode through fome little vales by the fide of a fmall river ; and from the appearance of fertility, have fome relief from the dreary fcene of the reft of the day. Reach I'yendrum^ a fmall village. The inn is feated the Tycndrum. higheft of any houfe in Scotland. The l^ay runs eaft, and a few hundred yards further is a little lake, whofe waters run weft. A lead-mine is worked here by a level to fome advantage ; was difcovered about thirty years ago : the veins run S. W: and N. E. Continue my tour on a very fine road on a fide Sept. 5. of a narrow vale, abounding with cattle, yet defti- ^tute both of arable land and meadow •, but the beafts pick up a fuftenance from the grafs that fprings up among the heath. The country opens on approaching Glen-Urqhie^ a pretty vally, well GUnmUrqhie. cultivated, fertile in corn, the fides adorned with numbers of pretty groves, and the middle watered by the river Urqhie : the church is feated on a Hnowl, in a large ifle, formed by the river : the O 3 Manfe^ i9« A TOUR AJanfey or miniftcr's houfe, is neat, and his little demein is decorated in the moft advantageous places with feats of turf, indicating the content and fatisfaftion of the poflcrlTor in the lot Providence has p-iven him. In the church yard are feveral gravc-ftones of great antiquity, with figures of a warrior, each fur- nifhed with a fpear, or two-handed fword : on fome are rcprefentations of the chafe •, on others, elegant fret- work -, and on one, faid to be part of the coffin of a McGregor, is a fine running pattern of foliage and flowers, and excepting the figures, all in good fade. On an eminence on the fouth fide of this vale dwells M''Nabb, a fmith, whofe family have lived in that humble fl:ation fince the year 1440, being always of the fame profefllon. The firft of the line was employed by the Lady of Sir Duncan Campbell^ v;ho built the caftle of Kilchurn when her hufband was on a croifade : fome of their tombs are in the church-yard of GY(?;;-t/;'^^;> ; the oldeft has a ham- mer and other implements of his trade cut on it. I here was favored with feveral tranflations of fome Englijh poetry into the.£"r/^ language, an epi- taph, and an elegy, to be found in the Appendix *, by thofe whofe turn leads them to perufe per- formances of that kind. After breakfaft, at a good inn near the village, was there prefentat achriften- ing, and became fponfor to a little Highlander^ by no other ceremony than receiving him for a mo- ment into my arms. * A'o. IV. . Purfuc 1 N S C O T L A N D. 199 Purfue my journey, and have a fine view of the meanders of the river before its union with Lough- Aw : in an ifle in the beginning of the lake is the caftle of Kilchurn, which had been inhabited by the Cadle of prefent Lord Breadalbane's grandfather. The great tower was repaired by his Lordfhip, and garrifoned by him in 1 745, for the fervice of the government, in order to prevent the Rebels from making ufe of that great pafs crofs the kingdom : but is now a ruin, having lately been ftruck by lightening. At a place called Hamiltojt's Pafs, in an indant burll on a view of the lake, which makes a beau- 'Louzb-Ait tifuU appearance •, is about a mile broad, and fhews ar left ten miles of its length. This water is pret- tily varied with ifles, fome fo fmall as merely to peep above the lurface i yet even thefe are tufted with trees ; fome are large enough to afford hay and paflurage ; and in one. called Inch-hail^ are the remains of a convent*. On Fraoch-Elan -^-^ih^Hef' perides of the Highlands, are the ruins of a caflle. The fair Mego longed for the delicious fruit of the ifle, guarded by a dreadfull ferpent : the hero Fraoch goes to gather it, and is deflroyed by the monfter. This tale is fung in the Erfe ballads, and is tranflated and publifhed in the manner of F/;?^^/^/ The whole extent of Lough- Aw is thirty miles, bounded on the north by Lorn^ a portion of Argyle- * The country people are flill fond of burying here. In- fular interments are faid to owe their origin to the fear peo- ple had of having their friends corpfes devoured by wolves on the main land. f This ifland was granted by Alexander III. in 1267, to CillcrijT M'Nachdan and his heirs for ever, on condition they fiipyld entertain the King whenever he pafled that way. O 4 Ihire^ 200 A T O U R JJj'irt^ a fertile country, prettily wooded near the water-fide. On the N. E. arc vaft mountains : Mount among them Crouachan * towers to a great height •» Oeuachan. \^ yiWs from the lake, and its fides are fliagged with woods impending over it. At its foot isthedilcharge of the waters of this Lough into Lougb-Etivc, an arm of the fea, after a turbulent courfe of a feries of catarafls for the fpace of three miles. At Bu- «..":t', near the north end, is a large falmon-fifhery ; alfj a confiderable iron-foundery, which I fear will foon devour the beautifuli woods of the country. Sc8//!oru.-a, ^^^^ ^y ^^o^J^'^^i a fingle houfe. Dine at the little village of Cladi/b About two miles hence, on an eminence in fight of the convent on Itjch-haily is a fpot, called Croifch an TJleachd., or the crofs of bowing, becaufe, in PopiJJj times, it was always cuftomary to kneel or make obeilance on firll fight of any confecrated place "f. Pafs between hills finely planted with feveral forts of trees, fuch as IFeymouth pines, &c. and after a piduref'que ride, reach Inveraray, ' Inveraray -, the cadle the principal feat of the Dukes of -r^r^jiV, chief of the C^w/)/'t//j; was built by Duke Archibald-y is quadrangular with around tower at each corner, and in the middle rifes a fquarc one glazed on every fide to give light lo the Itaircafe and galleries, and has from without a m.oll dif- agrccable efi^rd. In the attic ftory arc eighteen • Or the Great Heap. t Druidical llonci and temples arc called Clachan, churches liaving oftrii been built on fuch places : to go to Clachan is a coinmon Erfe phrafc forgoing to church. good IN SCOTLAND. 201 good bed-chambers : the ground-floor was at this time in a manner unfurnilhed, but will have feveral good apartments. The caftle is built of a coarle lapis ollaris, brought from the other fide of Lough- Fine, and is the fame kind with that found in Nor- way, of which the Kmg of Denmark's palace at Copenhagen is built. Near the new cattle are fome remains of the old. /This place will in time be very magnificent; but at prefent the fpace between the front and the water is difgraced with the old town, compofed of the moft wretched hovels that can be imagined. The founder of the caftle defigned to have built a new town on the weft fide of the little bay the houfe ftands on : he finifhed a few houfes, a cuftom- houfe, and an excellent inn : his death interrupted the completion of the plan, which, when brought to perfeftion, will give the place a very different appearance to what it now bearsy From the top of the great rock Duniquaich is a fine view of the caftle, the lawn fprinkled with fine trees, the hills covered with extenfive plantations, a country fertile in corn, bordering the Lough, and the Lough itfelf covered with boats. The trees on the lawn about the caftle are faid to have been pknted by the Earl of Argyle : they thrive greatly •, for I obferved beech from nine to twelve feet and a half in girth, pines nine, and a lefler maple between feven and eight. But the bufy fcene of the herring-fifliery gave no fmall improvement to the magnificent environs of 2 202 A T O U R o^ Inveraray. Every evening * fonie hundreds of boats in a manner covered the furface ot Lough' Fine^ an arm of tlie Tea, which, from its narrow- nels and from the winding of its ihores, has all the beauties of a frefli- water lake : on the week- days, the chearfuli noifc of the bagpipe and dance echoes from on board r^' on the fabbaih, each boat approaches the land, and pfalmody and devotion divic!e the day •, for the common people of the ^'''' ' north are difpofed to be religious, having the example before them of a gentry untainted by luxury and difiipation, and the advantage of be- ing inftrudlcd by a clergy, who are active in their duty, and who prefcrve reipcft, amidil all the dif- advantagcs of a narrow income,. Lcugb Fine. yj^g length of Lcttgh-Finey from tlic eaftern end to the point of Lamond, is above thirty Scotch miles; but its breadth fcarce two mcafured : the depth from fixty to icventy fathoms. It is noted Herrings. for the vall flioals of herrings that appear here in July and continue till January. The higheft fcafon is from September to Chrijlmas^ when near fix hun- dred boats, with four men in each, are employed. A chain of nets is ufed (for feveral are united) of a hundred fathoms in length. As the herrings fwim at very uncertain depths, fo the nets are funk to t!ie depth the flioal is found to take : the fuccefs therciore depends much on the judgement or good fortune of the fifliers, in taking their due depths j for it often happens that one boat will take multitudes, while the next docs not catch a Tingle • The fifhery ii cariiej uu in lii« nig lit, the herrings being tlicn in moiioii. I N S C O T L A N D. 301 fi(!i, which makes the boatmen pfrpetually en- quire of each other about the depth ot their nets. Thefe are kept up by buoys to a proper pitch ; the ropes that run through them are faftened with peg>, and by drawing up, or letting out the rope (cifter taking out the pegs) they adjuft their fituation, and then replace them. Sometimes the fifn fwim in twenty fathom water, fometimes in fifty, and oftentimes even at the bottom. It is computed that each boat gets about 40I. in the feafon. The fi(h are either faked, and packed in barrels for exportation, orfold frefh to the country people, two or three hundred horfes being brought every day to the water fide from very dillant parts. A barrel holds 500 herrings, if they are of the bed kind ; at a medium, 700 : but if more, for fome- times a barrel will hold 1000, they are reckoned very poor. The prefent price 1 1. 4s. per barrel ; but there is a drawback of the duty on fait for thofe that are exported. The great rendezvous of veflcls for the fifliery off the weftern ifles is at Camheltown^ in Caniyre^ where they clear out on the 12th q( September, and fome- times three hundred buffes are fcen there at a time : they mud return to their different ports by January 13th, where they ought to receive the prasmium of 2I. I OS. per tun of herrings ; but it is faid to be very ill paid, which is a great difcouragemcnt to the fifhery. The herrings of Lough-Fine are as uncertain in their migration as they are on the coaft of fVales. They had for numbers of years quitted that water j but appeared again there within thefe dozen years. Such ao4i A T O U R Such is the cafe with the lotjghs on all this weflern coaft, not but people defpair too loon of finding thcmjtromone or twounfuccefsfuUtryals in the be- ginning of the feafon j perhaps from not adjufting their nets to the depth the fifli happen then to fwim in : but if each year a fmall vefTcl or two was fent to make a thorough tryal in every branch of the fea on this coaft, they would undoubtedly find fhoals of fifh in one or other. Tunnies. Tunnies *, called here Mackrel-Sture^ are very frequently caught in the herring feafon, v/hich they follow to prey on. They are taken with a ftrong iron hook faftened to a rope and baited with a her- ring : as foon as hooked lofe all fpirit, and are drawn up without any refillance : are very adivc ' when at liberty, and jump and frolick on the fur- face of the water. Sept. 7/ Crofil'd over an elegant bridge of three arches upon the Aray^ in front of the caftle, and kept riding along the fide of the Lough for about ittvtn miles : faw in one place a fhoal of herrings, clofe to the furface, perfcclly piled on one another, with a flock 'of Gulls, bufied with this offered booty. After quitting the water-fide the road is carried for a confiderable way through the bottoms of naked, deep and gloomy glens. Afcend a very high pafs with a little lough on the top. Reach the end of Z/<?//^Z'-Lo«^, another narrow arm of the fea, bounded by high hills, and after a long courfe terminates in the Firth of Clyde. Near this place fee a houfe, very pleafantly fitu- • Br, Zoel. illuftr. 53. ated. I N S C O T L A N D. 405 ated, belonging to Colonel Campbell, amidft plan- tations, with Tome very fertile bottoms adjacent. On afcending a hill not half a mile farther, appears LouGH-LoMOND. Nort h-BH tain tmy yftWhozix Review of of its waters •, for fo fhort a ride as thirty miles Lakes, prefents the traveller with the view of four moft magnificent pieces. Lough- Aw^ Lough-Fine^ Lough^ Longy and Lougb-Lomond, Two indeed are of falt- water •, but, by their narrownefs, give the idea of frefh-water lakes. It is an idle obfervation of tra- vellers, that feeing one is the fame with feeing all of thefe fuperb waters-, for almoft everyone I vifited has its proper charaflers. Lough- Leven is a broad expanfe, with ifles and cultivated fhores. Lnigh-Tay makes three bold windings, has fteep but Hoping fhores, cultivated in many parts, and bounded by vafl hills. Lough-Ray nach, is broad and flrait, has more wildnefs about it, with a large natural pine wood on its fouthern banks. Lough ^umel is narrow, confined by the floping fides of fleep hills, and has on its weftern limits a flat, rich, woody country, watered by a moft fer- pentine ftream. The Leugh of Spinie is almoft on a flat, and its fides much indented. Lough-Moy is fmall, and has foft features on its banks, amidft rude environs. Lough-Nefs is ftrait and narrow *, its Ihores abound with a wild magnificence, lofty, precipi- tous fo6 A T O U R , tous and wooded, and has all the greatnefs of an Jlpine lake. Lough-Okh has lofty mountains at a fmall dif-* ' tance from its borders ; the fhores indented, and the water decorated with ifles. Lough-Lochy wants the ifles •, its (hores flope, and feveral ftraiths terminate on its banks. Lough- Aw is long and waving : its little ifles tufted with trees, and jufh appearing above the water, its two great feeds of water at each ex- tremity, and its fingular lateral difcharge near one of them, fufficiently mark this great lake. Laugh- Lough-Lomond^ the laft, the moft beautlfull of the Lamcnd. Caledonian lakes. The firft view of it from Tarbat prefcnts an extenfive ferpentine windingamidfl:lofty hills : on the north, barren, black and rocky, which darken with their fhade that contradted part of the water. Near this gloomy tradl, beneath Craig Rof- M'Cre£ors. ton, was the principal feat of the ArCregors, a murderous clan, infamous for excefles of all kinds; at length, for a horrible maflacre of the Colquhuns, or Cahoujis, in 1602, were profcribed, and hunted down like wild beads ; their very name fupprefled . by aft of council ; fo that the remnant, now dif- perfed like JewSi dare not even fign it to any deed. Their poflerity are Pcill faid to be diftinguiflied an:^ong the clans in wiiich they have incorporated themfelves, not only by the rednefs of their hair, but by their flill retaining the mifchievous ci;fpofi' tion of their ancefl;ors. On the weft fide, the mountains arc cloathed near the I N S C O T L A N D. 207 the bottoms with woods of oak quite to the water edge ; their fiimmits lofty, naked and craggy. On the eaft fid«, the mountains are equally high, but the tops form a more even ridge parallel to the lake, except where Ben-Lomond *, like Saul amidft his companions, overtops the reft. The upper parts were black and barren -, the lower had great niarks of fertility, or at left of induftry, for the yellow corn was finely contrafted with the ver- dure of the groves intermixed with it. This eaftern boundary is part of the Grampia?! Crampian hills, which extend from hence through the coun- liiUs* ties oi Pert hi Angus ^ Mearns, and Aberdeen. They take their name from only a fingle hill, the Mens Grampus of T^acitus^ where Calgacus waited the approach of Agricola^ and v/here the battle was fought fo fatal to the brave Caledonians, Anti- quarians have not agreed upon the particular fpot ; but the able Mr. Gordon -f places it near Comerie^ at the upper end of Straithern^ at a place to this day called Galgachan Moor. But to return. The road runs fometimes through woods, at others is expofed and naked \ in fome, {o fteep as to require the fupport of a wall : the whole the work of the foldiery : blefled exchange of inftruments of deftrudlion for thofe tl^at give fafety to the traveller, and a polifli to the once inacceflibie native. A great headland covered with trees feparates the firft fcene from one totally different. On paf- 'fing this cape an expanfe of water burfts at once on • Its height is 3240 feet, f It in. Sept ait. 39. youf 2o8 A T O U R your eye, varied with all the fofter beauties of na- ture. Immediately beneath is a fiat covered with wood and corn : beyond, the headlands ftretch far into the water, and confift of gentle rifings ; many have their furfaces covered with wood, others adorned with trees loofely fcattered either over a fine verdure, or the purple bloom of the heath. Numbers of iflands are difperfed over the lake of the fame elevated form as the little capes, and wooded in the fame manner ; others juft peep above the furface, and are tufted with trees ; and num- bers are fo difpofed as to form magnificent viftos between. Oppofite Lufsy at a fmall diftance from Ihorc, is a mountainous ifle almofl: covered with wood ; is near half a mile lOng, and has a moft fine cffed. I could not count the number of iflands, but was told there are twenty-eight : the largeft two miles long, and (locked with Deer. The length of this charming lake is 24 Scotch miles i its greateft breadth eight : its greateft depth a hundred and twenty fathoms. Befides the fifh common to the Loughs are Gui7iiadsy called here Poans. The country from Ltifs * to the fouthern ex- tremity of the lake continually improves •, the mountains fink gradually into fmall hills •, the land is highly cultivated, well planted, and well inha- bited. I was ftruck with rapture at a fight fo long new to me : it would have been without alloy, had • A tolerable inn on the borders of the lake. it I N S C O T L A N D. iocjl it not been daflied with the uncertainty whether the mountain virtue, hofpitality, would flourifh with equal vigor in the fofter fcenes I was on the point of entering on ; for in the Highlands every houfe gave welcome to the traveller. The vale between the end of the lake and Dun- barton is unfpeakably beautiful), very fertile, arid finely watered by the great and rapid river Levin^ the difcharge of the lake, which, after a fhort courfe, drops into the Firth of Clyde hdovf Dunbariofj : there is fcarcely a fpot on its banks but what is decorated with bleacheries, plantations and villas. Nothing can equal the contraft in this day's journey, between the black barren dreary glens of the morn- ing ride, and the fcfc fcenes of the evening, ifl:inds worthy of the retreat oi Armida, and which Rinaldo himfelf would have quitted with a figh. Before I take my lad leave of the Highlands^ it Entrances 1 , , . r ? • into the would be proper to obierve that every entrance into Highlands, them is ftrongly marked by nature. On the fouth, the narrow and wooded glen near 'Dunkdd inftantly fhews the change of country. On the eaft, the craggy pafs of Bollitir gives a contracted admiflion into the Grampian hills. On the north, the mountains near Lcugh-Moy appear very near, and form what is properly ftyled the threfhold of the country ; and on the Weft, the narrow road impending over Lough" Lomond forms a mcft charaderiltic entrance to this mountainous tra6t. But the £r/^ language is not confined within thefe limits ; for it is fpoken on all fides beyond P thefe ^lO A T O U R thefe mountains. On the eaftern coafl it begins aF Nairn •, on the weftcrn, extends over all the ifles. It ceafcs in the north of Cathmfs^ the Orkneys-, and the Shetland iflands * ; but near Lcugh-Loinond, is heard at Litfs^ at Buchanan, eail of the lal<c, and at Rofenetb, weft of it. Crofs the ferry over the Levin at Bonnal, and af- ter a ride of three miles reach Dunbar ton. Dumbarton, a fmall but good old town, feated on a plain near the conflux of the Levir with the Firth oi Clyde ; it confifts principally of one large (Ireet in form of a crefcent. On one fide is the Tolbooth, and at thcp fouth end the church with a fmall fpire fleeple. The waites of the town are bagpipes, which go about at nine o'clock at night and five in the morning. Its caHle. 'J he caflle is feated a little fouth of the town on a two-headed rock of a ftupendous height, rifing in a ftrange manner out of the lands, and totally detached from every thing clfe. On one of the fummits are the remains of an old light-houfe j on the other, the powder magazine : in the hollovf between is a large well of excellent water fourteen feet deep. The fides of the rocks are immenfe precipices, and often over-hang, except on the fide ■where the governor's houfe ftands, which is defend- ed by walls and a few cannon, and garrifoned by a tew invalids. From its natural ftrength, it was in former tmies deemed impregnable; fo that the * In the ShfthiiJ ijlcs arc flill fome remains of the l^orft, or old Nirivc^ian language, dcfpcrate I N S C O T L A N D. 211 defperate but fuccefsfuU fcalado of it 157 1 * may vie with the greateft attempts of that icind, with the capture of the Numidim fortrefs, in ihtjugur. thine war, by Marius j or the more horrible furprize of Fefcaivp-^-^ by the gallant Bois-rose. From the fummits of this rock is a fine view of the country, of the town of Dunharton^ the river Levin-, the Firth oi Clyde-, ^^'the Glota oi Tacitus) here ^ about a mile broad, and of the towns of Greenoch and Port Glafgozv, on the oppofiie fnore. The bu- finefs of this country is the fpinning of thread, which is very confiderable. There is alfo a great Fifii? falmon-filhery : but in this populous country, fo great is the demand for them that none can be fpared for curing. Gil/es come .up the river in June, and continue in plenty about twenty days ; and many Salmon Trout are taken from March to July. PhinocSy called here Yellow Fins, come \n. July, and continue about the fame fpace of time as the Giifes : the fifhermen call them the youncr of fome great Sea Trout. During May, Parrs appeaj in fuch numbers in the Levin, that the water feems quite animated with them. There are befides in that river Perch and a few Poans J. Pafs by the ruins of Dunglas cadle, near the Sept. S.; banks of the Clyde, which meanders finely alono- a rich plain full of barley and oats, and much in- * Robert/ojt' s hiji. ScotlarJ, II. i-. cclaijo, Guforic'syYll, t Sully s Memoirs, Vol I. Book VI. X At Dunbarton I was informed by perfcns of credit, that Swallows have often been taken in midwinter, in a tornid flate, out of the fteeple of the church, and alfo out of a fand- t)ank over the river Endrichj near Long!; Lunoud. V_ 2 clofed «i2 A T O U R clofed with good hedges, a rarity in North Britain* At a diftancc are lome gentle rifings, interfperfcd with woods and villas belonging to the citizens of Clajgow. Glasgow. The beft biiilt of any modern fecond-rate city I ever law : the houfes of (lone, and in a good tafte. The principal itrect runs eaft and weft, and is near a mile and a half long •, but unfortunately, is not ftrait. The T'cJbocth is large and handfome. Next to that is the Exchange: within is afpacious room with full-length portraits of all our monarchs fince Jaines I. and an excellent one, by Ramfay^ of •Archibald Duke o^ ArgyJe, in a Judge's robe. Before the Exchangers a large equeftrian ftatue o'f King William. This is the broadeft and fined part of the ftreet : many of the houfes are built over piazzas, but too narrow to be of much fervice to walkers. Numbers of other ftreets crofs this at right angles, and are in general well built, .ar et- y|^^ maikct-pUces are great ornaments to this city, the fronts being done in a very fine tafte, and the gates adorned with columns of one or other of the orders. Some of theie markets are for meal, greens, fitfh, or flefli. There are two for the latl which have conduits out of fcveral of the pillars ; fo that they are conftantly kept fweet and clean. ' Near the meal-market is a publick granary, to be filled on any apprehenfion of fcarcenefs. The guard- houfe is in the great llreer, which ii kept by the inhabitants, who regularly do duty. An excellent police is obfcrved here, and proper officers attend the markets to prevent any abufcs. The I N S C O T L A N D. 213 The old bridge over the Clyde confifls of eight arches, and was built 400 years ago by Bi(hop Rcci'y two others are now building. The tide flows three miles higher up the country j but at low water is fordable. There is a plan for deepening the channel ; for at prefent the tide brings up only very fmall velTels ; and the ports belonging to.this city lie fourteen miles lower, at Port Glejgow and Crcencck^ on the fide of the Firth. Near the bridge is a large alms-houfe, a vafl nailery, a flone-ware manufaclure, 'and a great porter brewery, which fupplies fome part of unin- dudrious Ireland. Within f ght, on the Ibuth fide, are collieries ; and much coal is exported into the lail- mentioned iuand, and into America. The great imports of this city are tobacco and Trade. fugar: of the former, above 40,000 hogfneads have been annually imported, and near 20,000 again exported into France. The manufaflures here are linnens, cambricks *, lawns, tapes, fuflians, and flriped linnens ; fo that it already begins to rival Manchejter^ and has in point of the conveniency of its ports, in refpecl to America^ a great advantage over it. The college is a large building, with a handfome College, front to the fireet, rcfembling fome of the old col- leges in Oxford. Charks I. fubfcribed 200I. to- wards this work, but was prevented by the troubles from paying it ; but Cromwel afterwards fulfilled the defign of the royal donor. It was founded in 1450, by James II. Pope Nicholas V. gave the * The greateft cambrick manufaiflure is now at PaiJIyy a few miles from this city. P 3 i>itU, 'H4. A T O U R hfd/\ bLit Bifnop 'TurnbuU fupplied the money.' There arc about 400 ftudents belonging to the col- lege, who lodiie in the town : but the Profefibrs have good houfes in the college. Young gentlemen of fortune have private tutors, who have an eye to their condufb ; the reft live entirely at their own difcretion. The library is a very handfome room, with a gal- lery round it, fupported by pillars. That benefi- cent nobleman the iirft Duke of Chdndos^ when he vifited the college, gave 500I. towards building this apartm.ent. Meflrs. Rchcvt and Andrevj FghUs, printers and booklVlkrs ,to the univerfity, have inftituted an academy for -painting and engraving ; and like good citizens, zealous to promote the weltare and honor of their native place, have at vaft expcncc formed a moft numerous colIeiSlion of paintings from abroad, in order to form the tafte of tlieir cleves. The printing is a very confidcrable branch of bufinefs, and has long been celebrated for the beauty of the types and the correftnefs of the edi- tions. Here are pi-efervcd in cafes numbers of monumental and other ftoncs *, taken out of the walls on the Roman ftations in this part of the kingdom : fome are well cut and ornamented : moft of them were done to perpetuate the memory of the vexjlhitio, or party, who perforn^ed fuch or • Several have bcrn engraven by the artift<: of (he academy. The Pfovoft of the Univcifity did me the honor of prtlent- ing mc with :i fet. fuch I N S C O T L A N D. 215 fuch works ; others in memory of ofTicers who died in the country. The cathedral is a large pile, now divided into Churches, two churches : beneath, and deep under ground, is another, in which is alfo divine fervice, where the congregation may truely fay, clamavi e pro- fiindis : the roof is fine, made of flone, and lup- ported by pillars ; but the beauty much hurt by the crowding of the pews. Near this is the ruin of the caftle, or Bilhop's palace. The new church is a very handfome building* with a large elegant porch ; but the outfide is much disfigured by a flender fquare tower with a pepper-box top : and in general, the fteeples of Glafgow are in a remarkable bad tatle, being, in faft, no favorite part of architedure with the church of Scotland. The infide of thatjufl: fpoken of is mofb neatly finifhed, fupported by pillars, and very prettily ftuccoed : it is one of the very few excep- tions to the flovenly and indecent manner in which Prefbytery keeps the houfes of God : reformation in matters of religion- feldom obferves mediocrity : here it was outrageous j for a place of worfliip commonly neat was deemed to favor of popery : but, to avoid the imputation of that extreme, they run into another ; for in many parts of Scotland our Lord feems ftill to be worfnipped in a ftable, and often in a very wretched one. Many of the churches are thatched with heath, and in fomc places are in fuch bad repair as to be half open at top; fo that the people appear to worlliip, as the Druids did of old, in open temples, P 4 Went 2i6 A T O U R Sept. io. Went to fee llamiltcn Houfe, twelve miles from Glafgo'-d) : rode through a rich and beautiful! corn country, adorned with fmail woods, gentlemen's feats, and well watered. Hereabout I faw the firft muddy in-eani fmre I had left Edinburgh ; for the Highland rivers running generally through a bed of rock, or pure gravel, receive no other teint, in the greateft floods, than the brown cryftalline tinge of the moors, out of which they rife. Sojhivell g.-e on the wePi, at a little difbance from the road, the ruins of Bothwell caftle, and the bridge, remarkable for the Duke of Monmouth\ vidlory over the Rebels in 1679. The church was collet giate, founded by ArchihaUY.v[\ o^ Douglas^ I39S» and is, as I heard, * oddly incrulted with a thin coat of Hone. Hamilton, Hamiltcn Houfe, or Palace, as it is called here, is feated at the end of a fmall town -, is a. large difagrecable pile of building, with two deep wing? at right angles with the centre. The gallery is of great extent, and furniihed (as well as fome other rooms) with moft excellent paintings : that of Da- jucl in the Lion*s den, by Rubens, is a great per- formance : the fear and devotion of the prophet is finely exprefled by his uplifted face and eyes, his clafped hands, his fwelling mufcles, and the violent cxtenfion of one foot: a Lion looks fiercely at him with open mouth, and fecms only reftrained by the almighty power from making him f;ill a victim to his hunper-, and the fignal deliverance of Daniel is more fully maiked by the number of human bones • Bi/hop Pocock''s matiujiript Journal. fcattered 1 N S C O T L A N D. 217 fcattered over the floor, as if to fhew the inftant fate of others, in whofe favor the Deity did not interfere. The marriage-feaft, by Paul Veronefe^ is a fine piece, and the obftinacy and refifl:ance of the in- truder, who came without the wedding garment, is ftrongly exirrefTed. The treaty of peace between England and Spain^ in the reign of James I. by Juan de Fanto%a-i is a good hiftorical pidure. There are fix Envoys on the part of the Spaniards^ and five on that of the Englifo, with their names infcribed over each : the ' Englijh are the Earls of Borfet^ Nottingham^ Be-vonr JhirCy Northcmptcn, and Robert Cecil. Earls of Lauderdale and Lanerk fettling the co- venant, both in black, with faces full of puritani- cal lolemnity. Several of the Dukes oi Hamilton. James Duke of HcmiltGnt with a blue ribband and white rod. His fon, beheaded in 1649. -^^^ brother, killed at the battle of Worcejier. The Duke who fell in the duel with Lord Mohun. Fielding, Earl of Denbigh * ; his hair grey, a gun in his hand, and attended by an Indian boy. The fineft I ever faw of Vandykes portraits : it feems per- fectly to fl:art from the canvafs, and the acftion of his countenance looking up has matchlefs fpirit. * The perfon who Ihewed the houfe called him governor of Jamaica ; but that mull be a miftalce. Jf any errors ap- pear in my account of any of the pidures, I flatter myfelf it may be excufed ; for fometimes they were fliewn by fervants; fometimes the owners of the houfe were fo obliging as to at- tend me, whomi could not trouble with a number of c[uellions. His *iS A T 0 U R His daughter, and htrr hiifband the Marquifs of Hamilton. Old Duke of Chatclbcrault, in black, with an order about his neck. Two half-lengths in black ; one with a fiddle in Iiis hand, the other in a grotefque attitude •, both with the fame countenances ; good, but fwarthy, miilakenly called David Rizzo's •, but I could not learn that there was any portrait of that unfor- tunate man. Maria Dei Gratia Scotorum Regittay 1586. j^t. 43. a half-length j a ftiff figure, in a great ruff, au- burne hair, oval but pretty full face, of much larger and plainer features than that atCadle Braan, 2i natural alteration from the increafe of her cruel ufage, and of her ill health; yet ftill with a refem- blance to that portrait. It was told me here, that fhe fent this pi6lure, together with a ring, to the Duke of Hamilton^ a little before her execution. A head, faid to be Jnna Bullen^ very handfome, dreffed in a ruff and kerchief edged with ermine, and in a purple gown; over her face a veil, fo jranfparent as not to conceal The bloom of young defire and purple light of love. Earl Morion^ Regent o^ Scotland. The rough reformer John Knox. Lord Belhaven, author of the famous fpeech againft the union. Philip II. at full length, with a flrange figure of Fame bowing at his feet with a label and this moitOj Pro mcrente adjlo. About I N S C O T L A N D. ai^ About a mile from the houfe, on an eminence Chatdbtraull above a deep wooded glen, with the Avon at its bottom, is Chatdherault ; fo called from the eftate the family once pofTefTed in France : is an elegant banqueting houfe, with a dog-kenncl, gardens, &c. and commands a fine view of the country. The • park is now much inclofed : but I am told that there are ftill in it a few of the breed of the wild Wild cattle, cattle, v;hich Boethius * fays were peculiar to the Caledonian foreO:, were of a fnowy whitenefs, and had manes like lions : they were at this time in a diftant part of the park, and I loft the fight of them. I regret alfo the not being able to vifit the falls of the Clyde near Lanerk^ which I was informed were very romantic, confiding of a feries of cata- rads of different heights from ten to fifteen feet, fome falling in flieets of water, others broken, and their fides bounded by magnificent rocks covered with trees. Returned to Glafgow* Crolfed the country towards Sterling. PafTed Sept, m- through the village oi KyJfitbe, noted for a viflory Kylfnhf. gained by Montrofe over the Covenanters. Thro* a bog, where numbers of the fugitives perifhed, is now cutting part of the canal that is to join the * Gignere folet ea Jyl'ua lo'vis candidijjimos in formam heonit jubam habentes, cat era manfiietis Jtmillimos 'verb adeo f^ros, &c, £>elcr. Regni Scotia^, fol. xi. 1 was a!fo informed that the fame kind is found in the Duke of ^eenjbury^% Park at Drumlanrig : but at prefent, in tio part of North BrliniH in an unconfined ftate. I imagine thefe to have been the fame with the jiibatos Bifontes of Pliny, which were found in his time in Germany, and might be common both to our ifland and the continent. Firth's 220 A T O U R Firths of Forth and Ciyds. Saw the fpot where the battle of Banjwckhcurne vi2iS fought, in which the Engli/Jj under EJzvard II. had a fhamefull defeat. Edward was fo afllired of conqueft that he brought with him WiUiam Bafion, a Carmelite^ and famous poet, to celebrate his vidlory, but the monarch was defeated, and the poor bard taken and forced by the conqueror, invitd minerva^ to fing his fuccefs, which he did in fuch lines as thefe : Hie capita hie rapiiy hie tcrit^ kic ferity ecce dolores ; Vox tonat j as fonat j hie ml: •, hie luit \ arUo modo res. Hie fecat ; hie 7ieeat \ hie doeet \ hie nffcet \ ijle fu- gatur : Hie lateti hie patet ; hie premit, hie gemit ; hie fu- peratur, St. IsirAan. Went through the fmall town of St. Ninian *, a mile fouth of Sterli)ig. The church had been the powder-magazine of the Rebels, who, on their re- treat, blew it up in fuch hade, as to dcftroy fome of their own people and about fifteen innocent fpeftatOrs. Sterling. Sterling and its caftlc, in refpeft of fituation, is a miniature of Edinburgh ; is placed on a ridged hill, or rock, rifing out of a plain, having the caftle at the upper end on a high precipitous rock. "Within its walls was the palace of feveral of the Scotch Kings, a fquare building, ornamented on • Apoflle of the Pi^s, fon of a prince of the Cutabrian Bri- lainsy converting the Puis as far as the Grampian hills. Died 432. 4. thi-ce iillii^llllliilijliiliilliliiliiiii!!!!!!;^^^ I N S C O T L A N D. - 221 three fides with pillars relling on grotcfque figures projeding from the wall, and on the top of each pillar is a fiatiie, feemingly the work of fancy. Near it is the old parlement-houfe, avail room 120 feet long, very high, with a timbered roof, and for- merly had a gallery running round the infide. Below the caftle are the ruins of the palace belonging to the Earls of Mar^ whofe family had once the keep- ing of this fortrefs. There are ftill the Erjkine arms and much ornamental carving on parts of it. The town of Sterlhig is inclofed with a wall -, the ftreets are irregular and narrow, except that which leads to the caftle. Here, and at the village of Bannockhoiirne-, is a confiderable manufafture of coarfe carpets. From the top of the caftle is by far the fineft view in Scotland. To the eaft is a vaft plain rich in corn, adorned with woods, and watered with the river Forth, whofe meanders are, before it reaches the fea, fo frequent and fo large, as to form a multi- tude of moft beautiful! peninfulas -, for in many parts the windings approximate fo clofe as to leave only a little ifthmus of a few yards. In this plain is an old abby, a view of Alloa, Clack- mamiarit Falkirk^ the Firth of Forth, and the coun- try as far as Edinburgh. On the north, the Ochil hills, and the moor where the ha.ti[e of DumMam was fought. To the weft, the ftraith of Menteith, as fertile as the eaftern plain, and terminated by the Highland mountains, among which the fummit of Ben-Lof}2ond is very confpicuous. The Sylva Caledonia, or Caledonian Foreft, begun a little 222 A T O U R a little north of Si criifigi and pafiing through Men- teith and Straithcrn^ extended, according to Boe- ihiusj as far as y^thol on one fide, and Lccbaber on the other. It is very (lightly mentioned by the an- tients * ; but the fuppofed extent is given by the . Scottijh hi dorian. ^alkirk. Lie at Falkirk^ a large ill-built towni fupported by the great fairs for black cattle from the High- lands, it being computed that 24,000 head are annually fold here. There is alfo a great deal of money got here by the carriage of goods, landed at Carron wharf, to Glafgow. Such is the increafe of trade in this country, that about twenty years ago not three carts could be found in the town, and at prefent there are above a hundred that are fup- ported by their intercourfe with Glafgotv. In the church-yard, on a plain ftone, is the fol- lowing epitaph on John de Graham, ftyled the right hand of the gallant Wallace^ killed at the battle of Falkirk \n 1298 ■\\ Here lies Sir John the Grame both wight and wife, AtiC of the chief reflce wit Scotland thrife. Ane better knight not to the world was lent. Nor was gude Grame of trueth, and of hardiment. Mente manuqut fottns, tt VALLit fidus Achates Conditur hie Gram US hello inter/eilus ab Angli?, 22 JmIH. 1298, Near this is another epitaph, occafioncd by a fecond battle of Falkirk^ as difgracefull to the Eng' * Dy Pliny y lib. iv. f. x6. and Eumenius, in his Panegyric on CoiijJarttiuSy <"• 7- f Fought hetwecn Falkirk and Carron works, at a place Cilied to tli;^ Jay Graham's Moor. 2 lijb 1 N S C O T L A N D. j|?^ hjh as the other was fatal to the Scots: the firfl was a well difputed combat ; the laft, a pannicon both fides, for part of each army flew, the one weft, the - other eaft, each carrying the news of their feveral defeats, while the total deftrudlion of our forces was prevented by the gallant behaviour of a briga- dier, v;ho with two regiments faced fuch of the rebels as kept the field, and prevented any further advantages. The epitaph I allude to is in memory of Sir Robert Monro *, the worthy chieftain of that loyal clan, a family which loft three brothers the fame year in fupport of the royal caufe. Sir Robert being greatly wounded in the battle was murthered in cool blood, by the Rebels, with his brother Dr. MonrOj who with fraternal piety was at that time drelfing his v/ounds : the third was afiaflinated by miftake for ens who well deferved his death for • Condltur heic quod poterit mori RoBERTi Monro de Foulis, Eq. Bar.* Gentis fui Principis , Militutn Tribuni : Vita in caftris curiaque Britannica Honefte produfla Pro Libertaie religione Patriae In acie honeftiflime defundla Prope Falkirk y^;?. xviii. 1746. jEt.62., Virtutis confiliique fama In Montanorum cohortis Prsefeftura Qnamdiu prailium FontonjEum memorabitnx Perduratura ; Ob amiciciam et fidem amlcis Humanitatem clementiamque adverfariis Benevolentiam bonitatenique omnibus, Trucidantibus etiam. In perpetuum defideranda. DuNCANUS Monro de Qifdale, M. D. J?/. 59^ Frater Fratrem linquere fugiens, Saucium curans, idus inermis Coinmoriens cohoneftat Urnam. fpontaneous i^24r A T O U R fpontaneous barbarities on Highlanders approaching according to proclamation to furrender their arms. I have very often mentioned fields of battles in this part of the kingdom ; fcarce a fpot has efcaped unftained with gore ; for had they no publick enemy to contend with, the Scots, like the fVeiJh of old, turned their arms againft each other. Iron founde- CarroH iron-works lie about a mile from Falkirk^ ""• and are the grcateft of the kind in Europe : they were founded about eight years ago, before which there was not a fingle houfe, and the country a meer moor. At prefent, the buildings of all forts are of vaft extent, and above twelve hundred men are employed. The iron is fmelted from the ilone, then call into cannon, pots, and all forts of utenfils made in founderies. This work has been of great fervice to the country, by teaching the people in- duftry and a method of fetting about any fort of labor, which before the common people had fcarce any notion of. Carron wharf lies on the Forib, and is not only iifefull to the works, but of great fervice even to Glafgow, as confiderable quantities of goods deftined for that city are landed there. The canal likewife begins in this neighborhood, which, when cffcded, will prove another benefit to thefe works. At a fmall diftance from the founderies, on a little rifing above the river Carron, flood that cele- Ar/hur^s O- brated antiquity called Arthur^ Oven, which the ingenious Mr. Gordon * luppofes to have been a * Itin. Stptcntr. p. 24. tab. iv. as the book is very fcarce, I have taken the liberty of having that plate copied into this work. faceUum^ ven. xn. 2JU^ AR T HITR S O VB I^ TW^O liOCHABER AXB S .^^fittwtf Jc-f^ I N S C O T L A N D. 225 faceJlum^ or little chapel, a repofitory for the Roman Infignia^ or llandards : but, to the mortification